African hair threading [1] (also known as hair threading/ threading) is a traditional hairstyling technique deeply rooted in African culture. It is cherished for its versatility, beauty, and cultural significance. This age-old practice involves intricately wrapping or braiding the natural hair with threads, often made of wool, cotton, or Nylon threads creating striking and elaborate patterns. [2] Hair threading is a meticulous art form, passed down through generations, showcasing the richness of African hairstyling artistry within various African communities.
African hair threading has multiple names across Africa in the West African country of Nigeria for example different ethnic groups know African hair threading by their native names. The native name in the Igbo language is isi òwu or òwu isī. [3] [4] isi in Igbo language refers to a common name used in referencing a hairstyle while òwu indicates the threads. [5] [6] In Yoruba language it is known as Irun Kiko. [7] In Ghana in the Ga language it is known as Akweley Waabii, [8] in East Africa it is known as Nywele [9] in the Swahili language.
Hair threading remains a prevalent and cherished traditional hairstyle within many sub-Saharan African societies, particularly prevalent in the cultures of Western and Central Africa. This age-old practice of African hair threading has deep roots in the cultural heritage of diverse African communities, tracing its origins back centuries. Its enduring presence can be dated to as early as the 15th century, serving as a time-honored method that promotes length retention and nurtures the health of natural hair. [10]
The process begins by sectioning the hair, then wrapping each section with threads and tightly securing the hair in place. [11] Not only does this technique serve as a protective style, safeguarding hair from breakage and promoting healthy growth, but it also allows for creativity and expression, with diverse patterns and designs reflecting cultural symbolism, personal identity, or celebratory occasions.
African hair threading fosters a strong sense of community and tradition, with women often bonding over shared experiences during the intricate threading process, transmitting cultural heritage from one generation to the next. Moreover, beyond its aesthetic appeal, hair threading serves as a cultural marker, embodying heritage, pride, and a celebration of African identity.
There are many variations and styles in African hair threading, depending on the types and patterns as well as the shape, size, and direction of the sections of hair. [12]
Some of the common styles are:
Corkscrew: This style involves wrapping the thread around the hair in a spiral motion, creating long, springy sections that resemble corkscrews. [13]
Flat twists [14]
Different colors of threads can be used in creating contrast or to highlight patterns in hair threading. [15]
A hairstyle, hairdo, haircut, or coiffure refers to the styling of hair, usually on the human head but sometimes on the face or body. The fashioning of hair can be considered an aspect of personal grooming, fashion, and cosmetics, although practical, cultural, and popular considerations also influence some hairstyles.
Dreadlocks, also known as dreads or locs, are a hairstyle made of rope-like strands of hair. Dreadlocks are created by either manually twisting the hair or by allowing it to mat naturally. Over time, the hair will form tight braids or ringlets.
A braid is a complex structure or pattern formed by interlacing three or more strands of flexible material such as textile yarns, wire, or hair. The simplest and most common version is a flat, solid, three-stranded structure. More complex patterns can be constructed from an arbitrary number of strands to create a wider range of structures. The structure is usually long and narrow with each component strand functionally equivalent in zigzagging forward through the overlapping mass of the others. It can be compared with the process of weaving, which usually involves two separate perpendicular groups of strands.
The afro is a hair style created by combing out natural growth of afro-textured hair, or specifically styled with chemical curling products by individuals with naturally curly or straight hair. The hairstyle can be created by combing the hair away from the scalp, dispersing a distinctive curl pattern, and forming the hair into a rounded shape, much like a cloud or puff ball.
Cornrows are a style of three-strand braids in which the hair is braided very close to the scalp, using an underhand, upward motion to make a continuous, raised row. Cornrows are often done in simple, straight lines, as the term implies, but they can also be styled in elaborate geometric or curvilinear designs. They are considered a traditional hairstyle in many African cultures, as well as in the African diaspora. They are distinct from, but may resemble, box braids, Dutch braids, melon coiffures, and other forms of plaited hair, and are typically tighter than braids used in other cultures.
Artificial hair integrations, more commonly known as hair extensions, hair weaves, and fake hair add length and fullness to human hair. Hair extensions are usually clipped, glued, or sewn on natural hair by incorporating additional human or synthetic hair. These methods include tape-in extensions, clip-in or clip-on extensions, micro/nano rings, fusion method, weaving method, and wigs.
Kinky hair also known as afro-textured hair, is a human hair texture prevalent in the indigenous populations of many regions with hot climates, mainly Sub-Saharan Africa and some areas of Melanesia, and Australia. Each strand of this hair type grows in a repeating pattern of small contiguous kinks which can be classified as tight twists and sharp folds. These numerous kinks make kinky hair appear denser than straight, wavy, and other curly hair types.
Hair highlighting/lowlighting is changing a person's hair color, using lightener or haircolor to lift the level or brightness of hair strands. Hair colorants primarily come in to different forms: oxidative (permanent) and non-oxidative .Permanent hair dyes bleach and add a new color to hair through the penetration of smaller dye precursors into the cortex and subsequent oxidation. There are four basic types of highlights: foil highlights, hair painting, frosting, and chunking. Highlights can be any color, as long as it is a lighter level than the surrounding hair. Hair lightened with bleach or permanent color will be permanent until new growth begins to show. Highlighted hair can make the hair appear fuller. Therefore, it is sometimes recommended for people with thin and fine hair.
Synthetic dreads, also called dread extensions, dread falls, and cyberlocks, are interlocked coils of synthetic hair, mostly kanekalon, that give the look and feel of natural dreadlocks without the commitment or maintenance. They are mainly worn as a fashion statement for the subculture of cybergoth.
African-American hair or Black hair refers to hair types, textures, and styles that are linked to African-American culture, often drawing inspiration from African hair culture. It plays a major role in the identity and politics of Black culture in the United States and across the diaspora. African-American hair often has a kinky hairy texture, appearing tightly coiled and packed. Black hair has a complex history, culture, and cultural impact, including its relationship with racism.
Discrimination based on hair texture, also known as textureism, is a form of social injustice, where afro-textured hair or coarse hair types, and their associated hair styles, are viewed negatively, often perceived as "unprofessional", "unattractive", or "unclean". This view can lead, for example, to some school students being excluded from class.
The natural hair movement is a movement which aims to encourage people of African descent to embrace their natural, afro-textured hair; especially in the workplace. It originated in the United States during the 1960s, and resurged in popularity in the 2000s.
Box braids are a type of hair-braiding style that is predominantly popular among African people and the African diaspora. This type of hairstyle is a "protective style" and is "boxy", consisting of square-shaped hair divisions. Box braids are generally installed by using synthetic hair which helps to add thickness as well as helping the natural hair that is in the braid. Because they are not attached to the scalp like other similar styles such as cornrows, box braids can be styled in a number of different ways. The installation process of box braids can be lengthy, but once installed they can last for six to eight weeks. They are known for being easy to maintain.
Braids are a complex hairstyle formed by interlacing three or more strands of hair. Braiding has been used to style and ornament human and animal hair for thousands of years in various cultures around the world.
Laetitia Ky is a feminist artist from Ivory Coast who creates sculptures from her hair, and is seen by many as a figurehead in the natural hair movement.
A protective hairstyle is a term predominantly used to describe hairstyles suitable for Afro-textured hair. These hairstyles are designed to minimize manipulation and exposure of the hair to environmental elements. Factors such as extreme temperatures, humidity, and precipitation can adversely affect hair health. Protective hairstyles are beneficial in mitigating these effects by keeping the hair tucked away and reducing its exposure to potentially damaging conditions.
Pamela L. Ferrell is an American entrepreneur, pioneer and advocate in the natural haircare field. She is best known for the pivotal role she played in assisting the United States (U.S.) Army and Navy with their review of hairstyle policies and regulations. She is the first known and documented African-American to help shape hair policies within the United States Armed Forces.
Rogers v. American Airlines was a 1981 legal case decided by the United States District Court for the Southern District of New York involving plaintiff Renee Rogers, a Black woman who brought charges against her employer, American Airlines, for both sex and race discrimination after she was dissuaded from wearing her hair in cornrows due to the airline's employee grooming policy. Rogers believed that this hair policy was a violation of her Title VII rights.
Yoruba clothing is the traditional clothing worn by people of the Yoruba ethnic group in parts of Nigeria, Benin and Togo in a region called Yorubaland. The clothing reflects the rich culture, history and aesthetic preferences of the Yoruba people.
Koroba is a type of Yoruba braid hairstyle. Koroba means basket in the Yoruba language. The name comes from the shape and design of the hairstyle. It is shaped like a basket upside down. The braids come from the middle of the head, downwards and spread to other parts of the head. It is a rounded circular hairstyle that comes straight or curled at the ends. Koroba is one of the indigenous Yoruba braids and represents one of the many traditional African braids.