Traje de luces

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Traje de luces
Antonio Barrera.jpg
Torero Antonio Barrera in a traje de luces with the ceremonial capote de paseo over his left arm and holding the montera
TypeBullfighter suit
Material Silk with gold, silver or jet thread embroidery
Place of originSpain
Introduced18th century
Two famous toreros
: Joselito el Gallo and Juan Belmonte wearing the traje de luces
. Joselito y Belmonte.png
Two famous toreros: Joselito el Gallo and Juan Belmonte wearing the traje de luces.
Detail of la chaquetilla
. Traje de luces.jpg
Detail of la chaquetilla.

The traje de luces [1] ('suit of lights') is the traditional clothing that Spanish bullfighters ( toreros , picadores , and rejoneadores ) wear in the bullring. The term originates from the sequins and reflective threads of gold or silver. These trajes are based on the flamboyant costumes of the 18th-century dandies and showmen involved in bullfighting, which later became exclusive to the bullfighting ritual. Later adornments include the montera hat, more elaborate embroidery, and decorative accessories.

Contents

Toreros

Getting "dressed to kill" constitutes a ceremonious ritual by itself: the matador is attended by a squire (mozo de espadas) who helps him to get dressed, often according to a "lucky" ritual in the privacy of a hotel room.[ clarification needed ]

Components of the traje de luces for a torero may include:

Colors

The main elements of the traje de luces, the pants and jacket, are usually of the same color and embellished with gold, sometimes silver or black, embroidery, sequins, and Austrian knots. The choice of colors are at the discretion of the bullfighter, with the most common colors being red, blue, white, pink, and brown. A bullfighter may pick a color for aesthetic reasons or based on superstitions, e.g. wearing a color worn previously that led to success in a bullfight or avoiding a color completely due to serious injuries while wearing that certain color. Selecting certain colors can also be for practical reasons, like picking lighter colors to call less attention from the bull.

Picadores

Components of the traje de luces for a picador (the mounted goader).

Rejoneadores

Rejoneadores are mounted lancers who slaughter the bull while riding on horseback. The Spanish rejoneadores use the traditional suit of Andalusian cattlemen, while their Portuguese counterparts dress in the style of Frederick II of Prussia, a fashion similar to the uniforms of upper-class cavalry in the 18th century.

Goyaesque corridas

These bullfights celebrate the earliest versions of the modern ceremony, which evolved in the 18th century, and which were recorded by the painter Goya. The suit is similar to the conventional traje de luces, but with less adornment. The Taleguilla tights are more comfortable, being of silk with gold thread. Goyaesque toreros perform the paseíllo with a bicorne hat, and a capote de brega ('struggle cape') that is similar to the muleta, but in stiffer material and without the stiffening rods. It measures between 113 and 123 cm and weighs some 4 to 6 kg. Bullfights in the style of Goya are known as ronda, and are celebrated in Spain at the end of September, and also at Arles in France.

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References

  1. Pedraza, Felipe (2005) [1998]. Iniciación a la fiesta de los toros # 4.4 El traje de torear (in Spanish). Biblioteca Edaf. ISBN   978-84-414-0293-5.