Mantle (clothing)

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Woman's dolman mantle, front and back views. Harper's Bazaar, November 1871 1871 dolman.jpg
Woman's dolman mantle, front and back views. Harper's Bazaar , November 1871

A mantle (from old French mantel, from mantellum, the Latin term for a cloak) is a type of loose garment usually worn over indoor clothing to serve the same purpose as an overcoat. Technically, the term describes a long, loose cape-like cloak worn from the 12th to the 16th century by both sexes, although by the 19th century, it was used to describe any loose-fitting, shaped outer garment similar to a cape. [1] For example, the dolman, a 19th-century cape-like woman's garment with partial sleeves is often described as a mantle. [2]

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In English, the idiom "to take up/pick up/assume the mantle" is from the Bible, and means to take a position of authority, leadership or responsibility in a particular area, especially in the sense of carrying on for a previous figure. [3] The most notable appearance in the Bible is in 2 Kings 2:13, where Elisha takes up Elijah's mantle (Hebrew : אדרת’addereṯ).

Mantelets

Mantelet, French, 1895 1895 mantelet.jpg
Mantelet, French, 1895

A variation on the mantle is the mantelet (also spelled mantelot and mantlet), typically describing a short version of the mantle. The term appears as early as 1386, in "The Knight's Tale" by Geoffrey Chaucer. In the 18th century, a mantelet was a woman's short cloak, and in the early 19th century, it was an ornamental scarf that crossed over the chest and tied behind, usually made of fur or lace. [1] By the end of the 19th century, a mantelet was a woman's shoulder cape with elongated ends in front, sometimes held in position by a belt at the waist. [1]

See also

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Blouse</span> Garment for the upper body

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A justacorps or justaucorps is a knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century and throughout the 18th century. The garment is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, which also included breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the frock coat, which in turn evolved into the modern-day three-piece suit.

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The Medieval period in England is usually classified as the time between the fall of the Roman Empire to the beginning of the Renaissance, roughly the years AD 410–1485. For various peoples living in England, the Anglo-Saxons, Anglo-Danes, Normans and Britons, clothing in the medieval era differed widely for men and women as well as for different classes in the social hierarchy. The general styles of Early medieval European dress were shared in England. In the later part of the period, men's clothing changed much more rapidly than women's styles. Clothes were very expensive and both the men and women of lower social classes continued also divided social classes by regulating the colors and styles these various ranks were permitted to wear. In the early Middle Ages, clothing was typically simple and, particularly in the case of lower-class peoples, served only basic utilitarian functions such as modesty and protection from the elements. As time went on the advent of more advanced textile techniques and increased international relations, clothing gradually got more and more intricate and elegant, even with those under the wealthy classes, up into the renaissance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Poet shirt</span>

A poet shirt is a type of shirt made as a loose-fitting blouse with full bishop sleeves, usually decorated with large frills on the front and on the cuffs. Typically, it has a laced-up V-neck opening, designed to pull over the head, but can have a full-length opening fastened by buttons. The collar may be standing or folded over with points. Fabrics commonly used in its manufacture include linen, cotton, satin and velvet, while frills may be of the same fabric or of lace. Originally intended as a male garment, it is also worn by women today.

A kandys, plural kandyes, also called candys, kantuš or Median robe, is a type of three-quarter-length Persian coat. It originally described a leather cloak with sleeves worn by men, but evolved into a garment worn by Athenian women. The kandys is sometimes compared to the much later 17th-19th century military pelisse as worn by Hussars, in the sense that it was a sleeved jacket or coat worn cloak-style.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cape</span> Sleeveless outer garment of varying lengths, sometimes attached to a coat

A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment which drapes the wearer's back, arms, and chest, and connects at the neck.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Witzchoura</span> Type of cloak

A witzchoura was a type of mantle, pelisse, or sleeved cloak, with a large collar and, sometimes, a hood, that was particularly fashionable in the early 19th century. The term derives from the Polish word wilczura, meaning 'wolf fur coat'. It was inspired by Polish styles, hence sometimes being described as a la Polonaise, although it is not the same as the gown called a polonaise. Like the original hussar's pelisse, it was typically lined with fur.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pelerine</span> Short cape covering the shoulders

A pelerine is a small cape-like garment that covers the shoulders. Historically, the pelerine possibly originated in a type of 15th century armor padding that protected the neck and shoulders by itself, if the padded fabric was reinforced internally with metal, and/or acted as padding between armor and the skin in the neck-to-shoulder region. The pelerine often had fasteners so that pauldrons could be attached.

References

  1. 1 2 3 Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988). Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion (2nd ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications. pp.  363–64. ISBN   1-56367-235-9.
  2. Calasibetta, Charlotte Mankey (1988). Fairchild's Dictionary of Fashion (2nd ed.). New York: Fairchild Publications. p.  166. ISBN   1-56367-235-9.
  3. "What Does Take Up the Mantle Mean?". Writing Explained. Retrieved December 12, 2018.