Dress

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Dress MET 19.181.1 F2.jpeg
Afternoon ensemble MET 63.212a-b CP4.jpg
Afternoon dress MET 1990.28a-b threequarter front CP4.jpg
Evening dress MET DT414.jpg
Examples of dresses

A dress (also known as a frock or a gown ) is a one-piece outer garment that is worn on the torso and hangs down over the legs and is primarily worn by women or girls. [1] [2] Dresses often consist of a bodice attached to a skirt.

Contents

Dress shapes and silhouettes, textiles, and colors vary. Dresses can have sleeves of any length or can be sleeveless, and dresses can have any neckline. Similarly, dresses can have skirts of any length or hemline. These variances may be based on considerations such as fashion trends, modesty, weather, and personal taste. [3] Dresses are generally suitable for both formal wear and casual wear in the West. [4]

Historically, foundation garments and other structural garments—including items such as corsets, partlets, petticoats, panniers, bustles—were used to achieve the desired silhouette. [5] [6]

History

Middle Ages

Houppeland (right) Van Eyck - Arnolfini PortraitFXD.jpg
Houppeland (right)

In the 11th century, women in Europe wore loose garments that were similar in shape to the tunics worn by men. [7] Sleeves varied in fit and length, and hemlines fell below the knees, most often reaching the ankle or ground. [7] These dresses were worn over ankle-length chemise garments. [7] As the century progressed, these dresses featured a tighter fit on the arms and upper body. [7] The tighter fit was achieved by making slits to the waist and in the sleeves that were laced closed to fit the figure. [8] Laces were gradually replaced by buttons. [8] By the end of the 11th century, sleeves widened with cuffs sometimes reaching several feet in circumference. [8] This style remained popular into the 13th century, although the sleeves once again became more fitted. [8]

In the 13th and 14th centuries, a similar dress known as a cote-hardie came into fashion. [9] [10] This garment was closed down the front of the bodice with buttons that extended to the hip; this resulted in a dress that was more fitted through the hip rather than just to the waist. [9] These dresses also often featured decorative elements such as long strips of cloth around the elbow known as tippets. [9]

In the 15th century, houppelandes and gowns became popular. Houppelandes were full-cut, floor-length dresses with high collars and full sleeves. [11] Gowns were also long dresses, but they had open necklines, a closer-fitted bodice, and sleeves that became more fitted as the century progressed. [12] Both houppelandes and gowns were often belted just below the bust. [12]

16th century

Spanish farthingale silhouette Attributed to William Scrots (active 1537-53) - Elizabeth I when a Princess - RCIN 404444 - Royal Collection.jpg
Spanish farthingale silhouette

European dresses in at the start of the 16th century resembled those of the previous century: full-cut, belted gowns with large sleeve openings worn over a kirtle or petticoat and chemise. [13] Decorative treatments such as pinking, slashing, and blackwork embroidery became increasingly common. [14] [15] Necklines were initially low and broad, but wearers began to fill in the open space with high collared chemises or partlets. [16] Although the overall style of dress was fairly consistent across the continent, there were regional differences often involving sleeve shape and decorative elements. [17] European courts, such as Tudor court and the wives of Henry VIII, were influential in European fashion. [17] From the 1540s, the bodices of dresses were stiffened, flattening the wearer's chest, and skirts were shaped with a Spanish farthingale. [18] The resulting silhouette resembled two triangles. [18]

Wheel farthingale silhouette Anne of Denmark Gheeraerts.jpg
Wheel farthingale silhouette

From the 1550s, middle- and upper-class European women could choose between the still popular rigid farthingale style or a looser-style gown known as a ropa. [19] [20] The ropa style of dress was known by different names throughout Europe, including sumarra (Italy), marlotte (France), and vlieger (Holland). [19] Fashionable sleeves were often more fitted with puffs at the shoulder. [21] From the 1570s, dress became even more highly decorated, exaggerated, and rigid. [22] [23] The previously popular conical skirt shape achieved with a Spanish farthingale was replaced by the wider, more conical wheel farthingale. [23] Under Queen Elizabeth, sumptuary laws dictated people of different social rank were allowed to wear. [23] [24]

Women's dresses in Russia during the 16th and 17th centuries identified the wearer's place in society or their family. [25]

17th century

Holland, as a center of textile production, was a particularly noted area of innovation in dress fashion during the 17th Century. [26] In Spain and Portugal, women wore stomachers [26] while in England and France, dresses became more "naturally" shaped. [26] Lace and slashing were popular decorations. [26] Skirts were full, with regular folds and the overskirt allowed the display of an underskirt of contrasting fabric. [26] Necklines became lower as well. [26] Embroidery that reflected scientific discoveries, such as newly discovered animals and plants were popular. [27] In the British Colonies, multi-piece dresses were also popular, though less luxurious. [28] Wealthy women living in the Spanish or Dutch colonies in the Americas copied the fashions that were popular from their homelands. [29]

The three-piece dress, which had a bodice, petticoat and gown, was popular until the last 25 years of the century, in which the mantua, or a one-piece gown, became more popular. [30] Corsets became more important in dresses by the 1680s. [31]

Working women, and women in slavery in the Americas, used simple patterns to create shifts, wool or linen petticoats and gowns and cotton dresses. [32] The bottoms of the skirts could be tucked into the waistband when a woman was near a cooking or heating fire. [32]

18th century

Illustration of 18th century French women Lacroix .jpg
Illustration of 18th century French women

Large, triangular silhouettes were favored during the 18th century, skirts were wide and supported by hoop underskirts. [33] [34] One-piece gowns remained popular until the middle of the century. [35] During the 1760s in France, hoop petticoats were reduced in size. [36] Lighter colors and lighter fabrics were also favored. [37] In Colonial America, women most often wore a gown and petticoat, in which the skirt of the gown opened to reveal the petticoat underneath. [38] Women also had riding habits which consisted of the petticoat, jacket and a waistcoat. [38]

French fashion regarding dresses became very fast-changing during the later part of the 18th century. [39] Throughout this period, the length of fashionable dresses varied only slightly, between ankle-length and floor-sweeping. [3] Between 1740 and 1770, the robe à la française was very popular with upper-class women. [40] In France, the Empire style became popular after the French Revolution. [41] This simpler style was also favored by Josephine Bonaparte, [41] wife of Napoleon. Other popular styles during the revolution included tunic dresses and the negligée à la patriot, which featured the red, white and blue colors of the flag. [42]

19th century

Empire dress, 1800-1805, cotton and linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City) Dress MET 69.2.1 front CP4.jpg
Empire dress, 1800–1805, cotton and linen, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)

Women's dresses in the 19th century began to be classified by the time of day or purpose of the dress. [43] High-waisted dresses were popular until around 1830. [43]

Early nineteenth century dresses in Russia were influenced by Classicism and were made of thin fabrics, with some semi-transparent. [44] Elizabeth Vigée Le Brun wore these types of dresses with a short skirt (reaching to her ankles) when she lived in Russia between 1785 and 1801 [44] and many Russian women copied her style. [44] By the 1840s, Russian women were turning to what was in fashion in Europe. [45]

Europeans styles in dresses increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s, [46] then fullness was draped and drawn to the back. [47] Dresses had a "day" bodice with a high neckline and long sleeves, and an "evening" bodice with a low neckline (decollete) and very short sleeves. In Russia, metal hoopskirts were known as "malakhovs." [45] Skirts of the 1860s were heavily decorated. [47]

To sleep, women in the American West wore floor-length dresses of white cotton with high collars displaying decoration. [48] Various Native American people, such as the Navajo and the Mescalero Apache began to adapt the designs of their dresses to look more like the European Americans they came in contact with. [49] Navajo women further adapted the European designs, incorporating their own sense of beauty, "creating hózhó." [50]

Paper sewing patterns for women to sew their own dresses started to be readily available in the 1860s, when the Butterick Publishing Company began to promote them. [51] These patterns were graded by size, which was a new innovation. [52]

The Victorian era's dresses were tight-fitting and decorated with pleats, rouching and frills. [41] Women in the United States who were involved in dress reform in the 1850s found themselves the center of attention, both positive and negative. [53] By 1881, the Rational Dress Society had formed in reaction to the restrictive dress of the era. [41]

20th century

French afternoon dress, circa 1903, cotton and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City) Afternoon dress MET 49.46.17a-b front CP4.jpg
French afternoon dress, circa 1903, cotton and silk, Metropolitan Museum of Art (New York City)

In the early twentieth century, the look popularized by the Gibson Girl was fashionable. [54] The upper part of women's dresses in the Edwardian era included a "pigeon breast" look that gave way to a corseted waist and an s-shaped silhouette. [54] Women called their dresses "waists" if one-piece, or "shirtwaists," if it consisted of a skirt and a blouse. [55] The bodice of the dresses had a boned lining. [55] Informally, wealthy women wore tea gowns at home. [56] These garments were looser, though not as loose as a "wrapper," and made of expensive fabric and laces. [56]

By 1910, the Edwardian look was replaced with a straighter silhouette. [57] French designer, Paul Poiret, had a huge impact on the look of the time. [57] Designs developed by Poiret were available in both boutiques and also in department stores. [58] Popular dresses of the time were one-piece and included lingerie dresses which could be layered. [59] At around the same time, in the United States, the American Ladies Tailors' Association developed a dress called the suffragette suit, which was practical for women to work and move around in. [60] [61] Another innovation of the 1910s was the ready availability of factory-made clothing. [62]

Waistlines started out high and by 1915 were below the natural waist. [59] By 1920, waistlines were at hip-level. [59] Between 1910 and 1920 necklines were lower and dresses could be short-sleeved or sleeveless. [63] Women who worked during World War I preferred shorter dresses, which eventually became the dominant style overall. [37] In addition to the shorter dresses, waistlines were looser and the dominant colors were black, white and gray. [64]

By 1920, the "new woman" was a trend that saw lighter fabrics and dresses that were easier to put on. [65] Younger women were also setting the trends that older women started to follow. [65] The dresses of the 1920s could be pulled over the head and were short and straight. [66] It was acceptable to wear sleeveless dresses during the day. [66] Flapper dresses were popular until end of the decade. [67]

During World War II, dresses were slimmer and inspired by military uniforms. [41] After WWII, the New Look, promoted by Christian Dior was very influential on fashion and the look of women's dresses for about a decade. [68]

Since the 1970s, no one dress type or length has dominated fashion for long, with short and ankle-length styles often appearing side by side in fashion magazines and catalogs. [69]

Use

In most varieties of formal dress codes in Western cultures, a dress of an appropriate style is mandatory for women. They are also very popular for special occasions such as proms or weddings. [70] For such occasions they, together with blouse and skirt, remain the de facto standard attire for many girls and women.

Formal dress

In western countries, a "formal" or white tie dress code typically means tailcoats for men and full-length evening dresses with opera-length gloves for women. A most formal dress for women are full-length ball or evening gowns with evening gloves. Some white tie functions also request that the women wear long gloves past the elbow.

Basic dress

A basic dress is a usually dark-colored dress of simple design which can be worn with various accessories to suit different occasions. [71] Different kinds of jewelry, belts, scarves, and jackets can be worn with the basic dress to dress up or down. [72] A little black dress is an example of a basic dress.

Bodycon dress

Dresses in the 1930s Sweden Vaxholm 1938.jpg
Dresses in the 1930s
A promotional model in a bodycon dress IMPORTEXPO IMG 5490 (5971779607).jpg
A promotional model in a bodycon dress

A bodycon dress is a tight figure-hugging dress, often made from stretchy material. [73] The name derives from "body confidence" [74] or, originally, "body conscious", transformed into Japanese in the 1980s as "bodikon".

Party dress

A party dress designed by Paco Rabanne in 1967, as displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum. This was worn by Helen Bachofen von Echt at a New York party where she danced with Frank Sinatra. Rabanne.jpg
A party dress designed by Paco Rabanne in 1967, as displayed at the Victoria and Albert Museum. This was worn by Helen Bachofen von Echt at a New York party where she danced with Frank Sinatra.

A party dress is a dress worn especially for a party. Different types of party such as children's party, cocktail party, garden party and costume party would tend to require different styles of dress. [76] [77] One classic style of party dress for women in modern society is the little black dress. [78]

Types of dresses

Time period

Lengths

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Victorian fashion</span> Fashions and trends in British culture during the Victorian era

Victorian fashion consists of the various fashions and trends in British culture that emerged and developed in the United Kingdom and the British Empire throughout the Victorian era, roughly from the 1830s through the 1890s. The period saw many changes in fashion, including changes in styles, fashion technology and the methods of distribution. Various movement in architecture, literature, and the decorative and visual arts as well as a changing perception of gender roles also influenced fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nightgown</span> Shirtlike garment intended for wear while sleeping most often used by women

A nightgown, nightie or nightdress is a loosely hanging item of nightwear, and is commonly worn by women and girls. A nightgown is made from cotton, silk, satin, or nylon and may be decorated with lace appliqués or embroidery at the bust and hem.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Petticoat</span> Skirt-like undergarment, sometimes intended to show, worn under a skirt or dress

A petticoat or underskirt is an article of clothing, a type of undergarment worn under a skirt or a dress. Its precise meaning varies over centuries and between countries.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1860s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1860s

1860s fashion in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on crinolines and hoops and the emergence of "alternative fashions" under the influence of the Artistic Dress movement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1870s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1870s

1870s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a gradual return to a narrow silhouette after the full-skirted fashions of the 1850s and 1860s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bustle</span> Womens undergarment

A bustle is a padded undergarment or wire frame used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. As a result a woman's petticoated skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bodice</span> Clothing for women and girls

A bodice is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. The name bodice is etymologically an odd plural spelling of "body" and comes from an older garment called a pair of bodies.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ball gown</span> Type of evening gown

A ball gown, ballgown or gown is a type of evening gown worn to a ball or a formal event. Most versions are cut off the shoulder with a low décolletage, exposed arms, and long bouffant styled skirts. Such gowns are typically worn with opera-length white gloves, vintage jewelry or couture, and a stole, cape, or cloak in lieu of a coat. Where "state decorations" are to be worn, they are on a bow pinned to the chest, and married women wear a tiara if they have one. Although synthetic fabrics are now sometimes used, the most common fabrics are satin, silk, taffeta and velvet with trimmings of lace, pearls, sequins, embroidery, ruffles, ribbons, rosettes and ruching.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Evening gown</span> Womans dress usually worn to a semi-formal or formal affair

An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from ballerina, tea, to full-length. Such gowns are typically worn with evening gloves. Evening gowns are usually made of luxurious fabrics such as chiffon, velvet, satin, or organza. Silk is a popular fibre for many evening gowns. Although the terms are used interchangeably, ball gowns and evening gowns differ in that a ball gown will always have a full skirt and a fitted bodice, while an evening gown can be any silhouette—sheath, mermaid, fit and flare, A-line, or trumpet-shaped—and may have straps, halters or even sleeves.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mantua (clothing)</span> Draped and pleated womans dress

A mantua is an article of women's clothing worn in the late 17th century and 18th century. Initially a loose gown, the later mantua was an overgown or robe typically worn over stays, stomacher and either a co-ordinating or contrasting petticoat.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1550–1600 in European fashion</span> Costume in the second half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1550–1600 in European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation remained prominent. The wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders had reached its peak in the 1530s, and by mid-century a tall, narrow line with a V-lined waist was back in fashion. Sleeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, with emphasis at the shoulder that would continue into the next century. The characteristic garment of the period was the ruff, which began as a modest ruffle attached to the neckband of a shirt or smock and grew into a separate garment of fine linen, trimmed with lace, cutwork or embroidery, and shaped into crisp, precise folds with starch and heated irons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1750–1775 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the years 1750–1775 in European countries and the colonial Americas was characterised by greater abundance, elaboration and intricacy in clothing designs, loved by the Rococo artistic trends of the period. The French and English styles of fashion were very different from one another. French style was defined by elaborate court dress, colourful and rich in decoration, worn by such iconic fashion figures as Marie Antoinette.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1600–1650 in Western fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 17th century

Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims. For men, hose disappeared in favour of breeches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1650–1700 in Western fashion</span>

Fashion in the period 1650–1700 in Western clothing is characterized by rapid change. The style of this era is known as Baroque. Following the end of the Thirty Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men's fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1700–1750 in Western fashion</span> Clothing in Europe and areas under its influence from 1700-1750

Fashion in the period 1700–1750 in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by a widening silhouette for both men and women following the tall, narrow look of the 1680s and 90s. This era is defined as late Baroque/Rococo style. The new fashion trends introduced during this era had a greater impact on society, affecting not only royalty and aristocrats, but also middle and even lower classes. Clothing during this time can be characterized by soft pastels, light, airy, and asymmetrical designs, and playful styles. Wigs remained essential for men and women of substance, and were often white; natural hair was powdered to achieve the fashionable look. The costume of the eighteenth century, if lacking in the refinement and grace of earlier times, was distinctly quaint and picturesque.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pleat</span> Deliberate fold in the design of a textile object or garment

A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1500–1550 in European fashion</span> Costume in the first half of the 16th century

Fashion in the period 1500–1550 in Europe is marked by very thick, big and voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers. Contrasting fabrics, slashes, embroidery, applied trims, and other forms of surface ornamentation became prominent. The tall, narrow lines of the late Medieval period were replaced with a wide silhouette, conical for women with breadth at the hips and broadly square for men with width at the shoulders. Sleeves were a center of attention, and were puffed, slashed, cuffed, and turned back to reveal contrasting linings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">19th century in fashion</span>

The nineteenth century marks the period beginning January 1, 1801 and ends December 31, 1900.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sack-back gown</span> Womens fashion of 18th century Europe

The sack-back gown or robe à la française was a women's fashion of 18th century Europe. At the beginning of the century, the sack-back gown was a very informal style of dress. At its most informal, it was unfitted both front and back and called a sacque, contouche, or robe battante. By the 1770s the sack-back gown was second only to court dress in its formality. This style of gown had fabric at the back arranged in box pleats which fell loose from the shoulder to the floor with a slight train. In front, the gown was open, showing off a decorative stomacher and petticoat. It would have been worn with a wide square hoop or panniers under the petticoat. Scalloped ruffles often trimmed elbow-length sleeves, which were worn with separate frills called engageantes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Overskirt</span>

An overskirt is a type of women's short skirt which is draped over another garment, such as a skirt, breeches, or trousers. Although peplum is often used as another term for overskirt, it should not be confused with the peplos or "peplum dress", which was worn in ancient Greece.

References

Citations

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  78. ↑ Amy Holman Edelman (1998), The little black dress, Aurum, ISBN   978-1-85410-604-9
  79. 1 2 3 4 5 The Vogue Sewing Book . Vogue Patterns. 1975. p.  337.
  80. ↑ Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C.W.; Cunnington, P.E. (2010). The dictionary of fashion history (Rev., updated and supplemented [ed.]. ed.). Oxford: Berg. p. 130. ISBN   9780857851437.
  81. ↑ Delamore, Philip (29 March 2007). "Mini and Midi". The Wedding Dress: A Visual Sourcebook of Over 200 of the Most Beautiful Gowns Ever Made. Pavilion Books. p. 122. ISBN   9781862057647.
  82. ↑ Cumming, Valerie; Cunnington, C. W.; Cunnington, P. E. (September 2010). The Dictionary of Fashion History. Berg. ISBN   9781847887382.

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