Bustle

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Bustle, lady's undergarment, England, c. 1885. Los Angeles County Museum of Art M.2007.211.399 Bustle c. 1885.jpg
Bustle, lady's undergarment, England, c. 1885. Los Angeles County Museum of Art M.2007.211.399

A bustle is a padded undergarment or wire frame used to add fullness, or support the drapery, at the back of women's dresses in the mid-to-late 19th century. [1] [2] Bustles are worn under the skirt in the back, just below the waist, to keep the skirt from dragging. Heavy fabric tended to pull the back of a skirt down and flatten it. As a result a woman's petticoated skirt would lose its shape during everyday wear (from merely sitting down or moving about).

Contents

Origin

The bustle has been linked to Sarah Bartman by scholars such as Dr. Anne Fausto-Sterling. [3] [4] Bartman was a South African woman was paraded around Europe as a circus attraction due to her body shape. [5] Sarah Bartman had a condition called steatopygia which is an abundance of tissue on the thighs and buttocks. [6] The bustle aims to achieve this look by adding padding to the back of Victorian women's dresses. [7] Although the bustle style of dress is often attributed to be reminiscent of black women, steatopygia is not encompassing of any one group of people, but rather a wide spread, general characteristic of humans. The term started out as an observation of the human body in the early 19th century, but evolved into a "medical abnormality" by the beginning of the 20th century. [4]

A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867 USpatent63234 1867.gif
A US patent illustration of a concept crinoline/bustle. 1867

History

In the early stages of the fashion for the bustle, the fullness to the back of the skirts was carried quite low and often fanned out to create a train. The transition from the voluminous crinoline-enhanced skirts of the 1850s and 1860s can be seen in the loops and gathers of fabric and trimmings worn during this period. The bustle later evolved into a much more pronounced humped shape on the back of the skirt immediately below the waist, with the fabric of the skirts falling quite sharply to the floor, changing the shape of the silhouette. [8]

Transition from crinoline (1867–1872)

As the fashion for crinolines wore on, their shape changed. Instead of the large bell-like silhouette previously in vogue, they began to flatten out at the front and sides, creating more fullness at the back of the skirts. [9] One type of crinoline, the crinolette, created a shape very similar to the one produced by a bustle. Crinolettes were more restrictive than traditional crinolines, as the flat front and bulk created around the posterior made sitting down more difficult for the wearer. [10] The excess skirt fabric created by this alteration in shape was looped around to the back, again creating increased fullness.

Early bustle (1869–1876)

The bustle later developed into a feature of fashion on its own after the overskirt of the late 1860s was draped up toward the back and some kind of support was needed for the new draped shape. [11] Fullness of some sort was still considered necessary to make the waist look smaller and the bustle eventually replaced the crinoline completely. The bustle was worn in different shapes for most of the 1870s and 1880s, with a short period of non-bustled, flat-backed dresses from 1878 to 1882.

Late bustle (1881–1889)

English bustle supports worn as undergarments, from 1875 to 1885. English bustles 1875-1885 LACMA.jpg
English bustle supports worn as undergarments, from 1875 to 1885.
Woman wearing a dress with a bustle, USA, about mid. 1880s Bustle.JPG
Woman wearing a dress with a bustle, USA, about mid. 1880s

The bustle reappeared in late 1881, [12] and was exaggerated to become a major fashion feature in the mid and late 1880s, in 1885 reaching preposterous proportions to modern eyes, as used in the play Arms and the Man by George Bernard Shaw. The fashion for large bustles ended in 1889. [13]

1889–1913

The bustle then survived into the 1890s and early 20th century, as a skirt support was still needed and the curve the bustle provided on the back of the body emphasized the hips. [7] The bustle had completely disappeared by 1905, as the long corset of the early 20th century was now successful in shaping the body to protrude behind. [14] The bustle was also abandoned by some women for more practical dress to be able to use the newly invented bicycle. [14]

Contemporary fashion

Bustles and bustle gowns are rarely worn in contemporary society. Notable exceptions survive in the realms of haute couture and bridal fashion, in addition to dedicated Neo-Victorian aesthetic circles including the steampunk, Gothic, and Lolita subcultures. Bustles are also employed as part of period costuming in film and theatre: an example would be the 1992 film Bram Stoker's Dracula , for which costume designer Eiko Ishioka won an Academy Award. The film features several extravagant bustle gowns created for female leads Winona Ryder and Sadie Frost.[ citation needed ]

Other usage

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lingerie</span> Womens undergarments including sleepwear

Lingerie is a category of primarily women's clothing including undergarments, sleepwear, and lightweight robes. The choice of the word is often motivated by an intention to imply that the garments are alluring, fashionable, or both. In a 2015 US survey, 75% of women reported having worn "sexy lingerie" in their lifetime.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Corset</span> Reinforced historical European undergarment

A corset is a support undergarment worn to hold and train the torso into the desired shape and posture. They are traditionally constructed out of fabric with boning made of whalebone or steel, a stiff panel in the front called a busk which holds the torso rigidly upright, and some form of lacing which allows the garment to be tightened. Corsets were an essential undergarment in European women's fashion from the 17th century to the early 20th century. In the 17th and 18th centuries they were commonly known as "stays" and had a more conical shape. This later evolved into the curvaceous 19th century form which is commonly associated with the corset today. By the beginning of the 20th century, shifting gender roles and the onsets of World War I and II led the corset to be largely discarded by mainstream fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Victorian fashion</span> Fashions and trends in British culture during the Victorian era

Victorian fashion consists of the various fashions and trends in British culture that emerged and developed in the United Kingdom and the British Empire throughout the Victorian era, roughly from the 1830s through the 1890s. The period saw many changes in fashion, including changes in styles, fashion technology and the methods of distribution. Various movement in architecture, literature, and the decorative and visual arts as well as a changing perception of gender roles also influenced fashion.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Skirt</span> Clothing worn from the waist or hips

A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards. At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric. However, most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist or hips and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels. Modern skirts are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin. Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better and for modesty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tightlacing</span> Practice of wearing a tightly laced corset

Tightlacing is the practice of wearing a tightly laced corset. It is done to achieve cosmetic modifications to the figure and posture or to experience the sensation of bodily restriction.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crinoline</span> Petticoat designed to hold out a skirt

A crinoline is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which was used to make underskirts and as a dress lining. The term crin or crinoline continues to be applied to a nylon stiffening tape used for interfacing and lining hemlines in the 21st century.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of corsets</span> The history of the corset and stays

The corset is a supportive undergarment for women, dating, in Europe, back several centuries, evolving as fashion trends have changed and being known, depending on era and geography, as a pair of bodies, stays and corsets. The appearance of the garment represented a change from people wearing clothes to fit their bodies to changing the shape of their bodies to support and fit their fashionable clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1860s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1860s

1860s fashion in European and European-influenced countries is characterized by extremely full-skirted women's fashions relying on crinolines and hoops and the emergence of "alternative fashions" under the influence of the Artistic Dress movement.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1890s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1890s

Fashion in the 1890s in Western countries is characterized by long elegant lines, tall collars, and the rise of sportswear. It was an era of great dress reforms led by the invention of the drop-frame safety bicycle, which allowed women the opportunity to ride bicycles more comfortably, and therefore, created the need for appropriate clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1870s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1870s

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Victorian dress reform</span> Victorian era design movement favouring practical womens clothing

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bodice</span> Clothing for women and girls

A bodice is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist. The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves. The name bodice is etymologically an odd plural spelling of "body" and comes from an older garment called a pair of bodies.

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hoop skirt</span> Undergarment that holds the shape of a dress

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">1840s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1840s

1840s fashion in European and European-influenced clothing is characterized by a narrow, natural shoulder line following the exaggerated puffed sleeves of the later 1820s and 1830s. The narrower shoulder was accompanied by a lower waistline for both men and women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1850s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1850s

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">1880s in Western fashion</span> Costume and fashion of the 1880s

1880s fashion in Western and Western-influenced countries is characterized by the return of the bustle. The long, lean line of the late 1870s was replaced by a full, curvy silhouette with gradually widening shoulders. Fashionable waists were low and tiny below a full, low bust supported by a corset. The Rational Dress Society was founded in 1881 in reaction to the extremes of fashionable corsetry.

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References

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  2. "Nylon Mag Called This Amazing Woman a "Freak" — This Is Her Real Story". Mic.com. 4 January 2016. Retrieved 1 December 2018.
  3. "Saartjie Baartman, Victorians, and the Bustle's Disturbing History | Art & Object". www.artandobject.com. Retrieved 2024-04-05.
  4. 1 2 Fausto-Sterling, Anne (2001). 'Gender, Race and Nation: The comparative anatomy of "Hottentot" women in Europe, 1815-1817' in The Gender Science Reader. London, England: Routledge. pp. 345–366. ISBN   0-415-21358-4.
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  6. "Dictionary.com | Meanings & Definitions of English Words". Dictionary.com. Retrieved 2024-03-01.
  7. 1 2 "Bustle | Styles, History & Functionality | Britannica". www.britannica.com. Retrieved 2024-02-23.
  8. "Bustle | clothing". Encyclopedia Britannica . Retrieved 2021-04-11.
  9. "1860-1869 | Fashion History Timeline". fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu. Retrieved 2020-07-31.
  10. "From the Crinoline, to the Crinolette, to the Bustle: 1860-1880". Victoria and Albert Museum . 2011-06-24. Retrieved 2020-07-31.
  11. "History of 1870s Bustles". Wisconsin Historical Society . Archived from the original on 2012-09-14. Retrieved 2013-06-27.
  12. Punch; December 6; 1881
  13. Corsets and Crinolines by Norah Waugh, 1990, p. 127ff
  14. 1 2 Christie-Robin, Julia; Orzada, Belinda T.; López-Gydosh, Dilia (December 2012). "From Bustles to Bloomers: Exploring the Bicycle's Influence on American Women's Fashion, 1880–1914". The Journal of American Culture. 35 (4): 315–331. doi:10.1111/jacc.12002. ISSN   1542-7331.
  15. Chapelle, Howard I. (1994). Yacht Designing and Planning. New York: Norton. pp. 80–81. ISBN   0393037568. OCLC   33814063.
  16. Martin, Murilee (July 24, 2017). "Junkyard Find: 1983 Cadillac Bustleback Seville". The Truth About Cars.
  17. "The Neoclassic Bustleback". Hemmings Motor News . 1 December 2012. Retrieved 16 February 2020.