Ulster coat

Last updated

A 1903 fashion plate of an Ulster, showing how the forearms can be brought under the cape. Ulsterovercoat jan1903.jpg
A 1903 fashion plate of an Ulster, showing how the forearms can be brought under the cape.

The Ulster is a Victorian working daytime overcoat, with a cape and sleeves.

Contents

The Ulster is distinguished from the Inverness coat by the length of the cape. In the Ulster, the cape only reaches just past the elbows, allowing free movement of the forearms. In the Inverness coat, the cape is as long as the sleeves, and eventually replaced the sleeves in the Inverness cape. It was commonly worn by coachmen who would be seated outdoors in bad weather for long periods, but needed to use their arms to hold reins.

Often made of hard-wearing fabrics, such as herringbone tweed, it was not a formal coat at the time, though in the 20th century a cape would be seen as such. It began to lose its cape in the 1890s, and now rarely has a cape, but continued to be used as a heavy-duty overcoat, often in a double-breasted style. [1]

A lightweight version of this coat is called an ulsterette. [2]

Origins

Prior to the inception of the Ulster coat in the first half of the nineteenth century, the greatcoat or surtout was the main component of a gentleman's wardrobe. Whilst fashionable at the time, these garments proved to be very cumbersome for travel due to the heavy lengths of overlapping cloth involved in creating the silhouette. By the mid-1800s, these coats were replaced by lighter variations such as the Chesterfield Overcoat and the Albert. These coats were designed primarily for show, so did not amount to the same level of weather protection. John McGee of McGee & Co set about creating a coat that would fulfil this purpose.

By 1866, McGee had conceptualised the coat known as the ‘Ulster.’ The design was met with much attention upon its introduction and brought acclaim to the Irish designer. Due to the increased sales from the popular coat, the company invested in a second location in Belfast, known simply as the ‘Ulster Coat Warehouse.’ The success of the male coat eventually led to a public clamouring for the female version. And so in the early 1870s, an ulster coat for women was introduced to the market. [3]

In fiction

Sherlock Holmes wearing an ulster coat in one of the original Strand Magazine illustrations of The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle 06.jpg
Sherlock Holmes wearing an ulster coat in one of the original Strand Magazine illustrations of The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle

It is often seen in period productions of Victorian novels, such as those of Charles Dickens and Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. The Ulster coat was referred to in Doyle's Sherlock Holmes novels and short stories: A Study in Scarlet , The Sign of the Four , A Scandal in Bohemia , The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle [4] and The Adventure of the Noble Bachelor (in which it is worn by a noblewoman). In the Sherlock Holmes short story Blue Carbuncle for example, Watson recounts that: “It was a bitter night, so we drew on our ulsters and wrapped cravats about our throats.” It has been used in a great many late-Victorian costume dramas since.

Depiction of Jack the Ripper taken from a series of images from the Illustrated London News for 13 October 1888 carrying the overall caption, "With the Vigilance Committee in the East End". This specific image is entitled "A Suspicious Character". The frontmost follower wears a deerstalker hat and an Ulster coat JacktheRipper1888.jpg
Depiction of Jack the Ripper taken from a series of images from the Illustrated London News for 13 October 1888 carrying the overall caption, "With the Vigilance Committee in the East End". This specific image is entitled "A Suspicious Character". The frontmost follower wears a deerstalker hat and an Ulster coat

It is seen in other works of fiction, including:

In other instances, the appearance of an ulster is a reference to Sherlock Holmes' choice of garment. For example, the title character of Madeline wore an ulster coat as a nod to Sherlock Holmes while doing detective work. Similarly, the Eleventh Doctor, played by Matt Smith, wore an ulster coat when posing as Sherlock Holmes on the Doctor Who episode The Snowmen .

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sherlock Holmes</span> Fictional character created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle

Sherlock Holmes is a fictional detective created by British author Arthur Conan Doyle. Referring to himself as a "consulting detective" in his stories, Holmes is known for his proficiency with observation, deduction, forensic science and logical reasoning that borders on the fantastic, which he employs when investigating cases for a wide variety of clients, including Scotland Yard.

<i>The Case-Book of Sherlock Holmes</i> 1927 collection of short stories by Arthur Conan Doyle

The Case-Book of Sherlock Holmes is the final set of twelve Sherlock Holmes short stories by British writer Arthur Conan Doyle first published in the Strand Magazine between October 1921 and April 1927.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Diogenes Club</span> Fictional gentlemans club created in Sherlock Holmes

The Diogenes Club is a fictional gentlemen's club created by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and featured in several Sherlock Holmes stories, such as 1893's "The Adventure of the Greek Interpreter". It seems to have been named after Diogenes the Cynic and was co-founded by Sherlock's indolent elder brother Mycroft Holmes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sidney Paget</span> English illustrator (1860–1908)

Sidney Edward Paget was a British artist of the Victorian era, best known for his illustrations that accompanied Arthur Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes stories in The Strand Magazine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle</span> 1892 short story by Arthur Conan Doyle

"The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle" is one of 56 short Sherlock Holmes stories written by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the seventh story of twelve in the collection The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes. It was first published in The Strand Magazine in January 1892.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Deerstalker</span> Type of cap

A deerstalker is a type of cap that is typically worn in rural areas, often for hunting, especially deer stalking. Because of the cap's popular association with the fictional detective Sherlock Holmes, it has become stereotypical headgear for a detective, especially in comical drawings or cartoons along with farcical plays and films.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Adventure of the Red Circle</span> Short story by Arthur Conan Doyle

"The Adventure of the Red Circle" is one of the 56 Sherlock Holmes short stories written by Arthur Conan Doyle. It is included in the anthology His Last Bow.

Jack the Ripper, an unidentified serial killer active in and around Whitechapel in 1888, has been featured in works of fiction ranging from gothic novels published at the time of the murders to modern motion pictures, televised dramas and video games.

<i>Sherlock Holmes</i> (1984 TV series) British TV series

Sherlock Holmes is the overall title given to the series of Sherlock Holmes adaptations produced by the British television company Granada Television between 24 April 1984 and 11 April 1994.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Inverness cape</span> Weatherproof, sleeveless overcoat

The Inverness cape is a form of weatherproof outer-coat. It is notable for being sleeveless, the arms emerging from armscyes beneath a cape.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Canon of Sherlock Holmes</span> Things confirmed about Sherlock Holmes in Sir Arthur Conan Doyles stories

Traditionally, the canon of Sherlock Holmes consists of the 56 short stories and four novels written by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. In this context, the term "canon" is an attempt to distinguish between Doyle's original works and subsequent works by other authors using the same characters. Usually capitalized by fans of the Sherlockian game as "the Canon", the description of these 60 adventures as the Sherlock Holmes canon and the game of applying the methods of "Higher Criticism" to it was started by Ronald Knox as a playful use of the traditional definition of canon as an authoritative list of books accepted as holy scripture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dr. Watson</span> Fictional character, associate and friend of Sherlock Holmes

John H. Watson, known as Dr. Watson, is a fictional character in the Sherlock Holmes stories by Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. Along with Sherlock Holmes, Dr. Watson first appeared in the novel A Study in Scarlet (1887). "The Adventure of Shoscombe Old Place" (1927) is the last work of Doyle featuring Watson and Holmes, although their last appearance in the canonical timeline is in "His Last Bow" (1917).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Arthur Conan Doyle bibliography</span>

Sir Arthur Conan Doyle KStJ, DL (1859–1930) was a Scottish writer and physician. In addition to the series of stories chronicling the activities of Sherlock Holmes and his friend Dr John Watson for which he is well known, Doyle wrote on a wide range of topics, both fictional and non-fictional. In 1876 Doyle entered the University of Edinburgh Medical School, where he became a pupil of Joseph Bell, whose deductive processes impressed his pupil so much that the teacher became the chief model for Holmes. Doyle began writing while still a student, and in October 1879 he had his first work—"The Mystery of the Sasassa Valley"—published in Chambers's Journal. He continued writing short works—both fictional and non-fictional—throughout his career, and had over 200 stories and articles published.

From 1921 to 1923, Stoll Pictures produced three series of silent black-and-white films based on Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes stories. Forty-five short films and two feature-length films were produced featuring Eille Norwood in the role of Holmes and Hubert Willis cast as Dr. Watson with the exception of the final film, The Sign of Four, where Willis was replaced with Arthur Cullin. Consequently, Norwood holds the record for most appearances as Sherlock Holmes in film.

"The Empty Hearse" is the first episode of the third series of the BBC television series Sherlock. It was written by Mark Gatiss and stars Benedict Cumberbatch as Sherlock Holmes, Martin Freeman as Dr John Watson, and Mark Gatiss as Mycroft Holmes. It also marks the first appearance of Amanda Abbington as Mary Morstan and Lars Mikkelsen as Charles Augustus Magnussen.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cape</span> Sleeveless outer garment of varying lengths, sometimes attached to a coat

A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment of any length that hangs loosely and connects either at the neck or shoulders. They usually cover the back, shoulders, and arms. They come in a variety of styles and have been used throughout history for many different reasons. 

Louis Hector was an American radio, theater, film, and television actor. He is best known for his roles of Sherlock Holmes in the 1937 broadcast of The Three Garridebs ; and that of the Reverend Browne in MGM's 1940 Technicolor release of Northwest Passage.

"The Field Bazaar" is a short story by Arthur Conan Doyle, first published on November 20, 1896 in a special "Bazaar Number" of The Student, a publication of the students' representative council at Edinburgh University. It is a Sherlock Holmes story, published under Conan Doyle's byline and featuring both Holmes and his partner, Dr. John Watson. It is, however, treated by most experts as a parody or pastiche not suitable for inclusion in the traditional 60-story canon of Sherlock Holmes, though there are dissenters.

The Adventures of Sherlock Holmes is an American old-time radio show that aired on US radio networks between 1930 and 1936. The series was adapted from Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's Sherlock Holmes stories by scriptwriter Edith Meiser. For most of the series, Richard Gordon played Sherlock Holmes and Leigh Lovell played Dr. Watson.

References

  1. ↑ "The Ulster Overcoat". 23 March 2010.
  2. ↑ Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011). The Complete Costume Dictionary. Scarecrow Press. p. 304. ISBN   9780810840041.
  3. ↑ McCoy, Jack (1985). "The Ulster Coat". Irish Arts Review. 2 (4): 18–23. JSTOR   20491823 . Retrieved 23 September 2020.
  4. ↑ Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan; Macaluso, P. James (31 August 2016). The Adventure of the Blue Carbuncle. Andrews UK Limited. ISBN   978-1-78092-795-4.
  5. ↑ Belloc-Lowndes, Marie (1913). The Lodger. Chicago Review Press. ISBN   0897332997.
  6. ↑ Joyce, James (3 February 2000). Dubliners. Penguin Books. ISBN   9780141182452.
  7. ↑ Montgomery, L.M. (1908). Anne of Green Gables.
  8. ↑ Conrad, Joseph (1902). Heart of Darkness.
This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.