Cloak

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A young man in an evening cloak, 1823. Fashion Plate Manteau 1823.jpg
A young man in an evening cloak, 1823.
Cloak, 1580-1600 Victoria and Albert Museum, No. 793-1901 Cloak.jpg
Cloak, 1580–1600 Victoria and Albert Museum, No. 793-1901

A cloak is a type of loose garment worn over clothing, mostly but not always as outerwear for outdoor wear, serving the same purpose as an overcoat, protecting the wearer from the weather. It may form part of a uniform. [1] People in many different societies may wear cloaks. Over time cloak designs have changed to match fashion and available textiles. [2]

Contents

Cloaks generally fasten at the neck or over the shoulder, and vary in length from the hip all the way down to the ankle – mid-calf being the normal length. They may have an attached hood and may cover and fasten down the front, in which case they have holes or slits for the hands to pass through. However, cloaks are almost always sleeveless.

Christian clerics may wear a cappa or a cope – forms of cloak – as liturgical vestments or as part of a religious habit. [3]

Etymology

The word cloak comes from Old North French cloque (Old French cloche, cloke) meaning "travelling cloak", from Medieval Latin clocca "travelers' cape," literally "a bell," so called from the garment's bell-like shape. Thus the word is related to the word clock. [4]

History

Ancient Greeks and Romans were known to wear cloaks. Greek men and women wore the himation , from the Archaic through the Hellenistic periods (c. 750–30 BC). [5] Romans would later wear the Greek-styled cloak, the pallium. The pallium was quadrangular, shaped like a square, [6] and sat on the shoulders, not unlike the himation.

Romans of the Republic would wear the toga as a formal display of their citizenship. It was denied to foreigners [7] and was worn by magistrates on all occasions as a badge of office. The toga allegedly originated with Numa Pompilius (r.715–672 BC), the second semi-legendary king of Rome. [8]

Eminent personages in Kievan Rus' adopted the Byzantine chlamys in the form of a fur-lined korzno  [ uk ] [9] (Old East Slavic : кързно). [10]

Powerful noblemen and elite warriors of the Aztec Empire would wear a tilmàtli; a Mesoamerican cloak/cape used as a symbol of their upper status. Cloth and clothing was of utmost importance for the Aztecs. The more elaborate and colorful tilmàtlis were strictly reserved for élite high priests, emperors; and the Eagle warriors as well as the Jaguar knights. [11]

Opera cloak

In full evening dress in the Western countries, ladies and gentlemen frequently use the cloak as a fashion statement, or to protect the fine fabrics of evening wear from the elements, especially where a coat would crush or hide the garment. Opera cloaks are made of quality materials such as wool or cashmere, velvet and satin.

Ladies may wear a long (over the shoulders or to ankles) cloak usually called a cape, or a full-length cloak. Gentlemen wear an ankle-length or full-length cloak. Formal cloaks often have expensive, colored linings and trimmings such as silk, satin, velvet and fur.

The term was the title of a 1942 operatic comedy. [12]

In literature and the arts

Aztec emperor Moctezuma II wearing a tilmatli. Moctezuma Xocoyotzin.png
Aztec emperor Moctezuma II wearing a tilmàtli.
Couple hiding under the same cloak, fragment of an Ancient Greek red-figure cup, ca. 525 BC-500 BC, found in Athens. Louvre Museum, Paris. Couple cloak Louvre G99.jpg
Couple hiding under the same cloak, fragment of an Ancient Greek red-figure cup, ca. 525 BC–500 BC, found in Athens. Louvre Museum, Paris.

According to the King James Version of the Bible, Matthew recorded Jesus of Galilee saying in Matthew 5:40: "And if any man will sue thee at the law, and take away thy coat, let him have thy cloke also." The King James Version of the Bible has the words recorded a little differently in Luke 6:29: "...and him that taketh away thy cloke, forbid not to take thy coat also."

Cloaks are a staple garment in the fantasy genre due to the popularity of medieval settings, although fantasy cloak designs normally have more resemblance to 18th or 19th-century cloaks rather than medieval ones.[ citation needed ] They are also usually associated with witches, wizards, and vampires; the best-known stage version of Dracula, which first made actor Bela Lugosi prominent, featured him wearing it so that his exit through a trap door concealed on the stage could seem sudden. When Lugosi reprised his role as Dracula for the 1931 Universal Studios motion picture version of the play, he retained the cloak as part of his outfit, which made such a strong impression that cloaks came to be equated with Count Dracula in nearly all non-historical media depictions of him.

Fantasy cloaks are often magical. For example, they may grant the person wearing it invisibility as in the Harry Potter series by J. K. Rowling. A similar sort of garment is worn by the members of the Fellowship of the Ring in The Lord of the Rings by J. R. R. Tolkien, although instead of granting complete invisibility, the Elf-made cloaks simply appear to shift between any natural color (e.g. green, gray, brown) to help the wearer to blend in with his or her surroundings. In the Marvel comic book stories and in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, the sorcerer Doctor Strange is associated with a magical Cloak of Levitation, which not only enables its wearer to levitate, but has other mystical abilities as well. Doctor Strange also uses it as a weapon. Alternatively, cloaks in fantasy may nullify magical projectiles, as the "cloak of magic resistance" in NetHack.

Metaphor

Figuratively, a cloak may be anything that disguises or conceals something. In many science fiction franchises, such as Star Trek , there are cloaking devices, which provide a way to avoid detection by making objects appear invisible. A real device, albeit of limited capability, was demonstrated in 2006. [13]

Because they keep a person hidden and conceal a weapon, the phrase cloak and dagger has come to refer to espionage [14] and secretive crimes: it suggests murder from hidden sources. "Cloak and dagger" stories are thus mystery, detective, and crime stories of this. The vigilante duo of Marvel comics Cloak and Dagger [15] is a reference to this.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Toga</span> Ancient Roman formal dress

The toga, a distinctive garment of ancient Rome, was a roughly semicircular cloth, between 12 and 20 feet in length, draped over the shoulders and around the body. It was usually woven from white wool, and was worn over a tunic. In Roman historical tradition, it is said to have been the favored dress of Romulus, Rome's founder; it was also thought to have originally been worn by both sexes, and by the citizen-military. As Roman women gradually adopted the stola, the toga was recognized as formal wear for male Roman citizens. Women found guilty of adultery and women engaged in prostitution might have provided the main exceptions to this rule.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stola</span> Traditional garment of Ancient Roman women

The stola was the traditional garment of Roman women, corresponding to the toga that was worn by men. It was also called vestis longa in Latin literary sources, pointing to its length.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tunic</span> Simple T-shaped or sleeveless garment, usually unfitted, of archaic origin

A tunic is a garment for the body, usually simple in style, reaching from the shoulders to a length somewhere between the hips and the knees. The name derives from the Latin tunica, the basic garment worn by both men and women in Ancient Rome, which in turn was based on earlier Greek garments that covered wearers' waists.

The chlamys was a type of an ancient Greek cloak. By the time of the Byzantine Empire it was, although in a much larger form, part of the state costume of the emperor and high officials. It survived as such until at least the 12th century AD.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Byzantine dress</span> Clothing and fashion trends of the Byzantine Empire

Byzantine dress changed considerably over the thousand years of the Empire, but was essentially conservative. Popularly, Byzantine dress remained attached to its classical Greek roots with most changes and different styles being evidenced in the upper strata of Byzantine society always with a touch of the Hellenic environment. The Byzantines liked colour and pattern, and made and exported very richly patterned cloth, especially Byzantine silk, woven and embroidered for the upper classes, and resist-dyed and printed for the lower. A different border or trimming round the edges was very common, and many single stripes down the body or around the upper arm are seen, often denoting class or rank. Taste for the middle and upper classes followed the latest fashions at the Imperial Court.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chiton (garment)</span> Sewn garment worn by men and women in Ancient Greece

A chiton is a form of tunic that fastens at the shoulder, worn by men and women of ancient Greece and Rome. There are two forms of chiton: the Doric and the later Ionic. According to Herodotus, popular legend was that Athenian women began to wear the chiton as opposed to the peplos after several women stabbed a messenger to death with the bronze pins characteristic of the peplos.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Himation</span> Mantle or wrap worn by ancient Greek men and women from the Archaic through the Hellenistic periods

A himation was a type of clothing, a mantle or wrap worn by ancient Greek men and women from the Archaic through the Hellenistic periods. It was usually worn over a chiton and/or peplos, but was made of heavier drape and played the role of a cloak or shawl. When the himation was used alone, without a chiton, it served both as a chiton and as a cloak. The himation was markedly less voluminous than the Roman toga. Many vase paintings depict women wearing a himation as a veil covering their faces.

A cloak is a type of loose garment that is worn over indoor clothing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Train (clothing)</span> The long back portion of a formal garment that trails behind the wearer

In clothing, a train describes the long back portion of a robe, coat, cloak, skirt, overskirt, or dress that trails behind the wearer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing in ancient Rome</span>

Clothing in ancient Rome generally comprised a short-sleeved or sleeveless, knee-length tunic for men and boys, and a longer, usually sleeved tunic for women and girls. On formal occasions, adult male citizens could wear a woolen toga, draped over their tunic, and married citizen women wore a woolen mantle, known as a palla, over a stola, a simple, long-sleeved, voluminous garment that modestly hung to cover the feet. Clothing, footwear and accoutrements identified gender, status, rank and social class. This was especially apparent in the distinctive, privileged official dress of magistrates, priesthoods and the military.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing in the ancient world</span> What people wore in antiquity as inferred from archaeological and historical evidence

The preservation of fabric fibers and leathers allows for insights into the attire of ancient societies. The clothing used in the ancient world reflects the technologies that these peoples mastered. In many cultures, clothing indicated the social status of various members of society.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aztec clothing</span> Clothing worn by Aztecs

Aztec clothing was worn by the Aztec people and varied according to aspects such as social standing and gender. The garments worn by Aztecs were also worn by other pre-Columbian peoples of central Mexico who shared similar cultural characteristics. The strict sumptuary laws in Aztec society dictated the type of fiber, ornamentation, and manner of wear of Aztec clothing. Clothing and cloth were immensely significant in the culture.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1100–1200 in European fashion</span> Clothing in the period 1100-1200

Twelfth century European fashion was simple in cut and differed only in details from the clothing of the preceding centuries, starting to become tighter and more similar for men and women as the century went on, which would continue in the 13th century. Men wore knee-length tunics for most activities, and men of the upper classes wore long tunics, with hose and mantle or cloaks. Women wore long tunics or gowns. A close fit to the body, full skirts, and long flaring sleeves were characteristic of upper-class fashion for both men and women.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Anglo-Saxon dress</span> Clothing of Anglo-Saxon England

Anglo-Saxon dress refers to the clothing and accessories worn by the Anglo-Saxons from the middle of the second century to the eleventh century. Archaeological finds in Anglo-Saxon cemeteries have provided the best source of information on Anglo-Saxon costume. It is possible to reconstruct Anglo-Saxon dress using archaeological evidence combined with Anglo-Saxon and European art, writing and literature of the period. Archaeological finds have both supported and contradicted the characteristic Anglo-Saxon costume as illustrated and described by these contemporary sources.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Early medieval European dress</span> Overview

Early medieval European dress, from about 400 AD to 1100 AD, changed very gradually. The main feature of the period was the meeting of late Roman costume with that of the invading peoples who moved into Europe over this period. For a period of several centuries, people in many countries dressed differently depending on whether they identified with the old Romanised population, or the new populations such as Franks, Anglo-Saxons, Visigoths. The most easily recognisable difference between the two groups was in male costume, where the invading peoples generally wore short tunics, with belts, and visible trousers, hose or leggings. The Romanised populations, and the Church, remained faithful to the longer tunics of Roman formal costume, coming below the knee, and often to the ankles. By the end of the period, these distinctions had finally disappeared, and Roman dress forms remained mainly as special styles of clothing for the clergy – the vestments that have changed relatively little up to the present day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clothing in ancient Greece</span>

Clothing in ancient Greece refers to clothing starting from the Aegean bronze age to the Hellenistic period. Clothing in ancient Greece included a wide variety of styles but primarily consisted of the chiton, peplos, himation, and chlamys. Ancient Greek civilians typically wore two pieces of clothing draped about the body: an undergarment and a cloak. The people of ancient Greece had many factors that determined what they wore and when they wore it.

The Medieval period in England is usually classified as the time between the fall of the Roman Empire to the beginning of the Renaissance, roughly the years AD 410–1485. For various peoples living in England, the Anglo-Saxons, Anglo-Danes, Normans and Britons, clothing in the medieval era differed widely for men and women as well as for different classes in the social hierarchy. The general styles of Early medieval European dress were shared in England. In the later part of the period, men's clothing changed much more rapidly than women's styles. Clothes were very expensive and both the men and women of lower social classes continued also divided social classes by regulating the colors and styles these various ranks were permitted to wear. In the early Middle Ages, clothing was typically simple and, particularly in the case of lower-class peoples, served only basic utilitarian functions such as modesty and protection from the elements. As time went on the advent of more advanced textile techniques and increased international relations, clothing gradually got more and more intricate and elegant, even with those under the wealthy classes, up into the renaissance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wrap (clothing)</span> Simple length of fabric worn as clothing

In the context of clothing, a wrap can refer to a shawl or stole or other fabric wrapped about the upper body, or a simple skirt-type garment made by wrapping a piece of material round the lower body. Many people of all genders throughout the world wear wraps in everyday life, although in the West they are largely worn by women. They are sometimes sewn at the edges to form a tube which keeps the required size. A wrap may be secured by a corner being tucked beneath the wrapped material, by making a knot, or using ties, buttons or velcro.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Biblical clothing</span> Clothing of the people in biblical times

The clothing of the people in biblical times was made from wool, linen, animal skins, and perhaps silk. Most events in the Hebrew Bible and New Testament take place in ancient Israel, and thus most biblical clothing is ancient Hebrew clothing. They wore underwear and cloth skirts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cape</span> Sleeveless outer garment of varying lengths, sometimes attached to a coat

A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment which drapes the wearer's back, arms, and chest, and connects at the neck.

References

  1. Bernadine Morris (March 31, 1981). "Italian fashion's success: a fresh point of view". The New York Times . a simple wrap .. extra layer of protection from the elements
  2. Bess Liebenson (February 24, 1991). "Changing Shapes of Clothes: Little for Men, Lots for Women". The New York Times .
  3. "cappa" . Oxford English Dictionary (Online ed.). Oxford University Press.(Subscription or participating institution membership required.)
  4. "cloak – Origin and meaning of cloak by Online Etymology Dictionary". www.etymonline.com.
  5. "Himation – clothing".
  6. Tertullian, De Pallio, I
  7. Suetonius, Divus Claudius, XV
  8. William Smith, LLD; William Wayte; G. E. Marindin, eds. (1890). "Toga". A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities . London: John Murray.
  9. Stamerov, K. (1986). History of Ukrainian Costume: From the Scythian Period to the Late 17th Century. Ukrainian heritage library. Melbourne, Victoria: Bayda Books. p. 21. ISBN   9780908480166 . Retrieved 30 August 2023. The prince's korzno cloak [...] was an exact copy of the Byzantine chlamys of a rectangular or semicircular cut. It was thrown over the left shoulder and fixed with a brooch (fibula) on the right shoulder.
  10. корзно in Vasmer's Etymological Dictionary
  11. "Ancient Aztec clothing". www.aztec-history.com. Retrieved 18 April 2021.
  12. Olin Downes (November 4, 1942). "Double Bill Given by the New Opera: Damrosch's 'The Opera Cloak' Offered as Part of Program at Broadway Theatre". The New York Times . p. 26. Damrosch's operatic comedy, "The Opera Cloak"
  13. John Schwartz (October 20, 2006). "Scientists Take Step Toward Invisibility". The New York Times .
  14. Philip Taubman (May 19, 1996). "Cloak and Dagger". The New York Times .
  15. "Cloak & Dagger". The New York Times . June 6, 2018. ... the comics company's .. live-action series

Sources