Afghan clothing

Last updated
Traditional Afghan attire worn by school children in Kabul Afghan Schoolchildren in Kabul.jpg
Traditional Afghan attire worn by school children in Kabul

Clothing in Afghanistan consists of the traditional style of clothing worn in Afghanistan. The various cultural exchanges in the nation's history have influenced the styles and flavors of contemporary Afghan designs. [1] The national dress is the fusion of different ethnic groups in Afghanistan. [2] The styles can be subdivided into the various ethnicities with unique elements for each. Traditional dresses for both men and women tend to cover the whole body, with trousers gathered at the waist, a loose shirt or dress, and some form of head covering. [3] [4]

Contents

Men's clothing

The perahan tunban is the standard traditional uniform dress for men, consisting of a tunic shirt, pants, and with (optional) head covering. [1] This dress originates from the Pashtun lands but its use spread to most of Afghanistan. It remains the predominant dress for male villagers. Some of the more famous varieties are the Kandahari Doozi and Herati Doozi styles. [5] On the head is normally a turban (lungi): [6] they are worn all over the country, but the fabric, color and style varies region by region. [1] For example, an Uzbek hat from the north of the country is distinct from a Pashtun hat worn in the south. [3]

From a young age, boys often wear colorful caps with shiny "chips" of mirrors sewn into them. [1]

The karakul hat is made of sheep fur and is of typical Central Asian style. Normally worn by the more stylish or educated, these hats come in conservative colors. [1] The chapan coat is another cloth of Central Asian origin that provides warmth in the winter, made of striped silk. [1] The chapan gained international recognition in the 2000s when Afghan president Hamid Karzai always wore a green one. [6]

Women's clothing

Traditional women's dresses are always long [1] and are made from light linens and are loose fitting for ease of movement. They come in many colors and have stitching for details. Most traditional clothing are colorful, except for the Nuristan dress. [1] More elaborate and fancier dresses are detailed with gold threading (Zardozi), gold beads, and come in many different colors on silk fabrics. These dresses are usually worn to special occasions and weddings.

They are usually of heavy design and filled with small mirrors around the chest area, along with long and pleated skirts. [7]

Most Afghans are Muslim and virtually all Afghan women wear a head covering based on the local interpretation of religious laws. Most women wear a hijab or chador as a covering. Some wear a chadari, better known in the West as burqa. [3]

In a few places like Kabul, Western dresses like jeans are often worn. From the 1960s to 1990s, more liberal forms of female dress like miniskirts were popular among some communities in Kabul. [8]

Culture and society

Clothes are usually stitched by hand. Girls start learning embroidery from an early age and skills are normally passed down from mothers to daughters. Each dress created by a woman can be seen as a unique piece of art. [1]

Certain attire have special significance, for example in some Pashtun or Baloch cultures in southern Afghanistan, a boy marks his start of adulthood by being allowed to wear a turban. [3]

Politics

The clothing of Afghanistan gained wide attention in the Western world following the U.S. invasion and fall of the Taliban regime, under which ultraconservative dress like the burqa was made compulsory. Especially, Hamid Karzai gained popularity for his creative style blending various attire of Afghanistan. [6] In September 2021, Afghan women launched an online campaign protesting against the Taliban's strict dress code after the militants took power. [7]

Also notably, a photo taken in Kabul in 1972 showing local women in miniskirts was reportedly shown to then-President Donald Trump of the United States by H. R. McMaster, which persuaded Trump to keep American troops in Afghanistan. [9]

Western and hippie appeal

Afghan suede coat Afghaanse jas van bruine suede met langharig bont langs de randen en manchetten en doorgestikt borduursel in creme en roze, haaksluiting voorzijde, objectnr 24389(1).JPG
Afghan suede coat

Sheepskin Afghan coats became popular in the Western world during the late 1960s; John Lennon famously wore one during the launch of his band's Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album in London. The Afghan coat became a popular dress in the hippie subculture. Afghanistan itself was on the hippie trail and such coats were often bought by foreigners in Kabul's Chicken Street. [10]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Burqa</span> Garment worn by some Muslim women

A burqa or a burka is an enveloping outer garment worn by some Muslim women which fully covers the body and the face. Also known as a chadaree or chaadar in Afghanistan and Pakistan, or a paranja in Central Asia, the Arab version of the burqa is called the boshiya and is usually black. The term burqa is sometimes conflated with the niqāb even though, in more precise usage, the niqab is a face veil that leaves the eyes uncovered, while a burqa covers the entire body from the top of the head to the ground, with a mesh screen which only allows the wearer to see in front of her.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Turban</span> Type of headwear

A turban is a type of headwear based on cloth winding. Featuring many variations, it is worn as customary headwear by people of various cultures. Communities with prominent turban-wearing traditions can be found in the Indian subcontinent, Southeast Asia, the Middle East, the Balkans, the Caucasus, Central Asia, North Africa, West Africa, East Africa, and amongst some Turkic peoples in Russia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Formal wear</span> Class of clothing for special occasions or events

Formal wear or full dress is the Western dress code category applicable for the most formal occasions, such as weddings, christenings, confirmations, funerals, Easter and Christmas traditions, in addition to certain state dinners, audiences, balls, and horse racing events. Generally permitted other alternatives, though, are the most formal versions of ceremonial dresses, full dress uniforms, religious clothing, national costumes, and most rarely frock coats. In addition, formal wear is often instructed to be worn with official full size orders and medals.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Folk costume</span> Expression of identity through clothing, usually associated with a geographic area

A folk costume expresses a national identity through clothing or costume, which is usually associated with a specific region or period of time in history. It can also indicate social, marital, or religious status. If the costume is used to represent the culture or identity of a specific ethnic group, it is usually known as ethnic costume. Such costumes often come in two forms: one for everyday occasions, the other for traditional festivals and formal wear. The word "costume" in this context is sometimes considered pejorative due to the multiple senses of the word, and in such cases "clothing", "garments" or "regalia" can be substituted without offense.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pakol</span> Soft round-topped mens hat

The pakol or pakul is a soft, flat, rolled-up, round-topped men's cap, usually worn in Afghanistan and Pakistan. It is typically made of wool and found in a variety of earthy colours, such as brown, black, grey, ivory, or dyed red using walnut. The pakol is believed to have originated in Chitral, or Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan.

Pashtun culture is based on Pashtunwali, as well as speaking of the Pashto language and wearing Pashtun dress.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1960s in fashion</span> Costume and fashion in the 1960s

Fashion of the 1960s featured a number of diverse trends, as part of a decade that broke many fashion traditions, adopted new cultures, and launched a new age of social movements. Around the middle of the decade, fashions arising from small pockets of young people in a few urban centers received large amounts of media publicity, and began to heavily influence both the haute couture of elite designers and the mass-market manufacturers. Examples include the mini skirt, culottes, go-go boots, and more experimental fashions, less often seen on the street, such as curved PVC dresses and other PVC clothes.

Pakistani clothing refers to the ethnic clothing that is typically worn by people in the country of Pakistan and by Pakistanis. Pakistani clothes express the culture of Pakistan, the demographics of Pakistan, and cultures from Punjab, Sindh, Balochistan, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Gilgit-Baltistan, and Kashmir regions of the country. The clothing in each region and culture of Pakistan reflect weather conditions, way of living, the textiles and embroidery used and its distinctive style which gives it a unique identity among all cultures.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Taqiyah (cap)</span> Short rounded skullcap worn by some Muslims

The Taqiyah, also known as tagiyah or araqchin, is a short, rounded skullcap worn by Muslim men. In the United States and the United Kingdom, it is also referred to as a "kufi", although the Kufi typically has more of an African connotation. Aside from being an adornment, the taqiyah has deeply ingrained significance in Islamic culture, reflecting the wearer's faith, devotion, and sometimes regional identity. While the taqiyah is deeply rooted in Muslim traditions, its use varies based on cultural context rather than strict religious guidelines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shalwar kameez</span> Trousers and tunic worn in South Asia

Shalwar kameez is a traditional combination dress worn by women, and in some regions by men, in South Asia, and Central Asia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kazakh clothing</span> Clothing worn by the Kazakh people

Kazakh clothing, worn by the Kazakh people, is often made of materials suited to the region's extreme climate and the people's nomadic lifestyle. It is commonly decorated with elaborate ornaments made from bird beaks, animal horns, hooves and feet. Although contemporary Kazakhs usually wear Western dress, the Turkic people wear more traditional clothing for holidays and special occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Khetpartug</span> Traditional Afghan clothing worn by men in Afghanistan

Khetpartugkhat partoog, is a type of Pashtun clothing worn in Afghanistan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fashion and clothing in the Philippines</span> Fashion and folk costume of the Philippines

Fashion and clothing in the Philippines refers to the way the people of the Philippine society generally dress up at home, at work, travelling and during special occasions.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punjabi clothing</span> Clothing style associated with people of the Punjab region

In the ancient Punjab region, people wore cotton clothing. Both men and women wore knee-length tops. A scarf was worn over the tops which would be draped over the left shoulder and under the right. A large sheet would be further draped over one shoulder which would hang loose towards the knees. Both male and female wore a dhoti around the waist. Modern Punjabi dress has retained this outfit but over its long history has added other forms of dress.

Perahan tunban, also known as Peran o Tunban, is a garment worn by men in Afghanistan and in some parts of Pakistan.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent</span>

History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent The history of Indian clothing is deeply rooted in ancient civilizations, notably the Vedic and Indus Valley Civilization. Standard clothing in India can be traced back to these periods, around 5000 BCE, where evidence suggests the use of woven cotton fabric and the cultivation of silk from silkworms. The attire during this era included robes for priest-kings, turbans for men, knee-length skirts for women, and various jewelry like bangles, necklaces and other jewelry. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the various beautiful figurines discovered from the ancient and pre-historic sites, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. The vedic and other ancient scriptures also provide detailed information about the clothing in ancient period. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.

Firaq partug is the traditional clothing of Pashtuns who reside in Pakistan and Afghanistan.The origins of this clothing can be traced back to the Scythians, and it has evolved with regional variations, reflecting the diverse cultural heritage of the Pashtun people. The styles vary according to region and tribe, Kuchis, Wazirs, Khattaks, Peshawaris, and Kakars all have their own style of Firaq Partug. The outfits consists of three garments: chador, firaq and partug. The word Firaq partug comes from pashto. Firaq means a flared shirt and partug means pants.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Khyber Pakhtunkhwa clothing</span> Traditional clothing worn in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan

The traditional clothing and accessories worn in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa varies according to the area of the region. The following outfits are generally worn in the area, starting to north to south:

Pathani Suit is an ethnic outfit for men in the South Asian culture. Basically it is a Muslim dress similar to Salwar kameez. It comprises three garments Kurta, Salwaar, and a vest, which is optional. Pashtun suit is popular among men as formal wear and worn on special occasions such as marriages and festivals. It is also called Khan suit and Pashtun suit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Uzbek clothing</span> Traditional and modern clothing worn by Uzbeks

Uzbek clothing consists of the traditional style of clothing worn by Uzbeks. It showcases the traditional fashion sensibilities of Uzbek cultural traditions and forms one of the major cultural facets of Uzbek civilization. There are two broad types of clothing worn by Uzbeks: traditional clothing known as traditional Uzbek clothing and Western clothing, which encompasses all else not recognized as either national dress or the dress of another country.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 "AfghanEthnicDolls.com - Traditional Clothes of Afghanistan".
  2. "Afghani Fashion | International Fashion".
  3. 1 2 3 4 "4. Basic forms of traditional dress".
  4. "Clothing".
  5. "Afghani Fashion | International Fashion".
  6. 1 2 3 "Modern or traditional?".
  7. 1 2 "Afghan women hit back at Taliban with #DoNotTouchMyClothes campaign". BBC News. 13 September 2021.
  8. "FACT CHECK: Were Women Allowed to Wear Mini Skirts in 1970s Afghanistan?".
  9. "The Weaponization of Nostalgia: How Afghan Miniskirts Became the Latest Salvo in the War on Terror". 7 September 2017.
  10. "Friday essay: How 'Afghan' coats left Kabul for the fashion world and became a hippie must-have".