Changabang

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Changabang
Kalanka and Changabang peaks from Bagini glacier DSCN0066.jpg
North Face of Kalanka (left) and Changbang peaks from Bagini glacier
Highest point
Elevation 6,864 m (22,520 ft) [1]
Prominence circa 300 m (1000 ft) [2]
Parent peak Kalanka (6931 m)
Listing Mountain peaks of Uttarakhand
Coordinates 30°30′0″N79°55′32″E / 30.50000°N 79.92556°E / 30.50000; 79.92556
Geography
India relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Changabang
Location in northern India
Country India
State Uttarakhand
Division Garhwal
Parent range Garhwal Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent 4 June 1974 by Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu, Chris Bonington, Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott [3]
Easiest route Southeast Face/East Ridge (snow/ice climb)

Changabang is a mountain in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand, India. It is part of a group of peaks that form the northeast wall of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary. It is a particularly steep and rocky peak, and all routes on it are serious undertakings. It has been the site of many significant climbs. It does not have a high topographic prominence, being slightly lower than its near neighbour Kalanka to the east, and lower than many other peaks in the immediate vicinity, but its steep rocky profile has made it a more attractive destination than its elevation would indicate. Changabang loosely translated means "shining mountain" in Hindi. [4]

Contents

Climbing

First ascent

Changabang was first climbed on 4 June 1974 by an expedition led by Lt. Col Balwant Sandhu and Chris Bonington, via the Southeast Face, leading to the East Ridge. This is the easiest route on the mountain, and one of the few that is primarily a snow/ice climb, as opposed to a rock climb with some snow, ice, or mixed terrain. [3]

Notable ascents

Other notable ascents include some of the hardest climbs ever done in the Himalayas.

References

  1. "Topographic map of Changabang". opentopomap.org. Retrieved 3 July 2023.
  2. This is an approximate figure, based on the 1:150,000 scale topographic map Garhwal-Himalaya-Ost, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research.
  3. 1 2 Fanshawe, Andy; Venables, Stephen (1995). Himalaya Alpine-Style. Hodder and Stoughton. ISBN   0-340-64931-3.
  4. Carter, H. Adams (1977). "The Goddess Nanda and Place Names of the Nanda Devi Region". American Alpine Journal . American Alpine Club . Retrieved 3 July 2023.
  5. Toda, Naoki (1977). "Changabang, Southwest Ridge". American Alpine Journal . 21 (51). New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club: 248.
  6. Tasker, Joe (1977). "Changabang, West Wall". American Alpine Journal. 21 (51). New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club: 248–249.
  7. Porter, John (1979). "Bandaka and Changabang" (PDF). American Alpine Journal. 22 (53). New York, New York, US: American Alpine Club: 29–35. ISSN   0065-6925.. (available also internet version, see External links)
  8. "Changabang". Alpinist. 1 (51). US: 30. 1982.
  9. Fowler, Mick (1998). "A Touch Too Much?". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club: 53–68. ISBN   0-930410-78-5.
  10. Buhler, Carlos (1999). "Russian Style on Changabang". American Alpine Journal. 41 (73). Golden, Colorado, US: American Alpine Club: 106–113. ISBN   0-930410-84-X.
  11. "Changabang-98" . Retrieved 3 July 2023.
  12. El Universal Grafico Archived 29 September 2007 at the Wayback Machine
  13. "Andres Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra: Very Very bad news". Everest News. 8 November 2006. Archived from the original on 29 June 2012.
  14. "NZ Alpine Team Summits Changabang after 46 years by the epochal West Ridge Route". dreamwanderlust.com. 11 May 2022. Retrieved 3 July 2023.