The Cologne Cathedral quarter (German : Domumgebung) is the area immediately surrounding Cologne Cathedral in Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. When the Gothic cathedral was built, it was closely surrounded by houses and smaller churches. When the cathedral was completed in 1880 as a national symbol, it was freed from adjacent structures and stood isolated, unhampered by traffic. After the inner city was destroyed in World War II, it was rebuilt, with a pedestrian area connecting to the cathedral. In 1970, the Domplatte was constructed as a large concrete surface without steps around the cathedral, which became the location of major open-air events such as Carnival and pop concerts. The design of the cathedral surroundings has remained a challenge for urban planning. [1]
In medieval Cologne, buildings stood in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral. Contemporary illustrations show that the cathedral was surrounded by the houses of the bishop and the cathedral chapters. Secular buildings included the archbishop's prison "Hacht" from 1165, and the cathedral provostry built in 1363. Later buildings included the Binger houses built in 1596 for the publisher Arnold Kirchhoff by Johann von Winter in the immediate vicinity of the cathedral, attested as early as 1382 as an archbishop's fief of the Erbkämmerer . [2] The Cologne city view of 1570 by Arnold Mercator shows that buildings immediately surrounding the cathedral in all directions.
The cathedral still appeared enclosed by other buildings around 1800. [3] The Cathedral Deanery on its north side was built completed in 1658 for the Franz Egon von Fürstenberg-Heiligenberg, and was demolished in 1892. The open spaces in its immediate vicinity were Frankenplatz, the market place Domhof, and Domkloster. To its west, several large medieval buildings included the Kamp(f)hof (later: Kamperhof), first mentioned in the Schreinsbücher in 1356, and zum Palast, owned by the book printer family Heinrich Quentell since 4 November 1500. [4]
The French administration installed a guillotine in the cathedral courtyard, which they called Place Metropole, on 16 October 1798, where more than 30 people were executed. [5] The secularisation of 1802 led to the expropriation and demolition of the existing sacred buildings. [6]
The first plans to change the surroundings of a cathedral to free space were sketched by Karl Friedrich Schinkel in 1816. He proposed to demolish the old houses around the cathedral and create a ring of green space with terraces down to the Rhine. The difference in height between the cathedral choir and the Frankenplatz, which was lower at the time, was to be compensated by a two-winged staircase, part of an overall garden design which included a fountain, the later Petrusbrunnen. [7]
To follow the plan, the dilapidated provostry was demolished in June 1830, and the Cologne prison Hacht in August 1893, for an unobstructed view of the cathedral. [8] In November 1857, two houses at Domhof were demolished. The Köln-Mindener Eisenbahn-Gesellschaft (Trankgasse No. 8) and the Colonia insurance company (Trankgasse No. 6) donated their buildings to the city in 1863. [9] The desired free exposure of the cathedral was thus achieved in the east, but plans to clear a Kaiserstraße in the west, running axially towards the west facade of the cathedral, could only be realised in a small section.. [10]
Another plan for the redesign of the cathedral surroundings from 1 October 1866 was not realised.
In October 1885, city architect Josef Stübben submitted a plan for the free exposure of the cathedral which he presented in the Deutsche Bauzeitung. [11] The collapse of the first Dom-Hotel on 31 December 1885 encouraged a new design of the cathedral surroundings, especially in the west in front of the portals and in the south in front of the south transept. A decisive idea was that the complete cathedral should be visible. [12] The Dom-Hotel was rebuilt at a distance according to the requirements of the Dombauverein (Cathedral building association), and reopened 15 April 1893. Between 1826 and 1893, two churches and 69 houses had to make way for the plans. This marked the end of the extensive demolition work to expose the densely enclosed cathedral. Stübben noted in 1903 that "the exposure of a building ... can arise from the need for traffic or from aesthetic intent". [13]
As early as the Gründerzeit , building near the cathedral was to be avoided, to present the cathedral as a monument enthroned majestically on the Domhügel (cathedral hill). All secular buildings had to keep a respectful distance from Cologne's most important sacred building.
The results of an international competition launched in February 1956 to redesign the area around the cathedral were not realised. In May 1964, construction work began on the underground Cologne Stadtbahn, which initiated new concepts of the cathedral surroundings, especially since the tram running close to it would be no longer needed. In order to integrate the cathedral into the urban fabric, Fritz Schaller built the Domplatte from 1968 to 1970, as an elevation of the pedestrian terrain to the level of the cathedral portals, which had been accessible only by stairs. Giving up the idea of a cathedral mound, a concrete platform was built surrounding the entire cathedral, covered with multi-coloured granite paving, with stairs leading to the elevation at a greater distance from the cathedral, both to the traffic office in the west and to the main station in the north. [14]
Below the Domplatte, a two-storey underground car park for 613 cars was built from 1969 to 1971. A new building next to the Domplatte was the Roman-Germanic Museum, which opened on 4 March 1974. In 1980, construction began on the Museum Ludwig, which was opened on 6 September 1986. [15]
Competitions brought about a partial renewal of the Domplatte in 1988. In April 2003, the city commissioned Christian Schaller with the redesign of the stairs to the main station, which he designed as a 70 m wide flight of steps, opened on 10 August 2005. In September 2009, the Council of the City of Cologne decided to develop an overall urban development concept for the area around the cathedral, with the aim. [16] to turn the Domplatte into the city's central focal point. The concept was to be realised in four construction phases. [17] In August 2013, the redesign began in the east between the cathedral, the museums and the station. The entire upper level around the Domherrenfriedhof (cathedral cemetery) as well as the street level below between Trankgasse and Kurt-Hackenberg-Platz was redesigned with wide pedestrian ways, an improved lighting concept and spacious straight stair areas and the demolition of part of the Trankgasse tunnel. In November 2019, the second phase began for the north. Here, too, the cathedral base is to be made visible again through uniform cladding with natural stone and pedestrian friendliness is to be increased. [18] [19]
Four large squares surround the cathedral: in the south the Roncalliplatz with the Papstterrasse, in the west the Domvorplatz with the Kardinal-Höffner-Platz, in the east the Domherrenfriedhof and the Heinrich-Böll-Platz, and in the north the Bahnhofsvorplatz.
The Roncalliplatz connects the Domkloster with the street Am Hof. It was named after Pope John XXIII - in 1971 after the construction of the Domplatte. [20] It was called Place Charlemagne; in 1813 during the French period, then Kaiser-Karls-Platz in 1815, then Domhof. [20] In 1972, the house of the Cologne Cathedral Construction Administration was completed at Roncalliplatz 2, which also houses the Dombauhütte. In 1974, the Romano-Germanic Museum was opened at Roncalliplatz 4. In 1984, a sculpture Columne pro Caelo (Column for Heaven) by Heinz Mack was erected, a 68-ton monolith of Portuguese granite. [21]
Domvorplatz is the name given to the western part of the Domplatte in front of the towers and the main entrance to the cathedral. It features an arch of the Roman North Gate. Since 2008, the area between Domplatte and Trankgasse has been called Kardinal-Höffner-Platz, after Cardinal Joseph Höffner. [22] A full-size replica of the finials of Cologne Cathedral is set up on the square and is a popular meeting place for tourists. However, its location is controversial because it obscures the view of the façade. Therefore, a new place will have to be found for it. [23] Next to it is the Taubenbrunnen, created in 1953 by Ewald Mataré.
To the east of the cathedral choir is the Domherrenfriedhof (canons' cemetery). The members of the Cathedral chapter are buried here in a crypt laid out in 1925. The gravestones are based on a design by the cathedral master builder Arnold Wolff. [24] Below it is the baptistery, an early Christian baptismal font from the 6th century, which had been built on an even older Roman basin. The small, octagonal structure testifies to the transition from pre-Christian antiquity to late antique Christianity. In the most recent rearrangement of the eastern cathedral surroundings in 2017, the baptistery has been joined by the Fountain of Dionysus. The sculpture, created in 1973 by Hans Karl Burgeff, shows a twisted Dionysus, the god of wine. [25]
Dani Karavan designed the Heinrich-Böll-Platz, named after the writer Heinrich Böll from Cologne, between 1982 and 1986. He used the brick of the adjacent museum, granite as on the Domplatte, cast iron as in the main station, and greenery as in the Rheingarten. The Museum Ludwig is on the square.
The Bahnhofsvorplatz (station square) connects the hall of the main station and the elevated Domplatte. The open staircase is made of Polish granite and widens to 73 m at the top.
As usual in the Middle Ages, the area around the cathedral was densely built, with churches, the archbishop's palace and other culturally significant buildings. Buildings included, with their street address in brackets:
The area around Cologne Cathedral became an urban space with a metropolitan character. Buildings, with their street address in brackets, include:
"There is always something happening on the Domplatte and Roncalliplatz. ... For skaters and rollerbladers, for acrobats, street musicians and pavement painters, the areas in the shadow of the venerable cathedral become a private open-air stage." [42] The Domplatte, together with Roncalliplatz, is the most highly frequented Cologne pedestrian zone. When on 13 October 1970 the Japanese Emperor Hirohito Cologne on 13 October 1970, the Domplatte proved to be an ideal visitor stage. [43] Since then, events such as Cologne's largest Christmas market or open-air concerts, for example by Frank Sinatra (farewell concert on 6 June 1993), Liza Minnelli (15 June 1997), the Bläck Fööss (for their 40th anniversary, 5 September 2010), BAP (for the 35th anniversary, 27 May 2011) and in memory of Trude Herr (summer 1995). A strict set of rules allows a maximum of six major events per year, with the exception of church services. The controversial Cologne Wailing Wall was banned by the Cologne Higher Regional Court in May 1997, and since September 2011 the public order service has been able to punish skateboarding on the Domplatte as a non-permitted Sondernutzung with a warning fine . [44]
The Domplatte together with the cathedral were voted the most popular place in Germany in the programme of 22 September 2006 in the ZDF series Unsere Besten . However, the "massive concrete belt around the cathedral" was also strongly criticised again and again and even called "Cologne's biggest eyesore. [45] Although the Domplatte frees the cathedral from its island location surrounded by traffic, the concreting has created barren landscapes, foul-smelling corners and meeting places for social fringe groups. Critics say that the cathedral has been "robbed of its feet" by the Domplatte. [46]
Köln Hauptbahnhof or Cologne Central Station is a railway station in Cologne, Germany. The station is an important local, national and international transport hub, with many ICE, Thalys and Intercity trains calling there, as well as regional Regional-Express, RegionalBahn and local S-Bahn trains. EuroNight and Nightjet night services also call at the station. It has frequent connections to Frankfurt by way of the Cologne–Frankfurt high-speed rail line, which starts in southern Cologne. On an average day, about 280,000 travellers frequent the station, making it the fifth busiest station in Germany.
The Cologne Stadtbahn is a light rail system in the German city of Cologne, including several surrounding cities of the Cologne Bonn Region. The term Stadtbahn denotes a system that encompasses elements of trams as well as an underground railway network (U-Bahn) and interurban rail, even including three lines that are licensed as heavy rail and used by freight trains as well as Stadtbahn vehicles. Two of these lines connect the Cologne Stadtbahn to the Bonn Stadtbahn. These lines are jointly operated by both cities' transport authorities, resulting in both systems and the lines connecting them sometimes collectively referred to as Stadtbahn Rhein-Sieg.
The Great Saint Martin Church is a Romanesque Catholic church in Cologne, Germany. Its foundations rest on remnants of a Roman chapel, built on what was then an island in the Rhine. The church was later transformed into a Benedictine monastery. The current buildings, including a soaring crossing tower that is a landmark of Cologne's Old Town, were erected between 1150-1250. The architecture of its eastern end forms a triconch or trefoil plan, consisting of three apses around the crossing, similar to that at St. Maria im Kapitol. The church was badly damaged in World War II; restoration work was completed in 1985.
The history of the Jews in Cologne dates to 321 C.E., when it was recorded in a census decreed by the Emperor Constantine I. As such, it is the oldest European Jewish community north of the Alps. The community quickly established itself in what came to be known as Cologne's Jewish quarter, building its first synagogue by 1040 C.E. The Crusades put an end to peaceful coexistence with Christians in 1096 C.E. Despite the Archbishop's protection many Jews were killed and their synagogue destroyed. The community regained its economic and religious life until about 1300 C.E., when the Christian majority again applied pressure. The community's fortunes improved and worsened a number of times into the 20th century. Before the 1930s, it consisted of 19,500 people. After the end of World War II it had been almost entirely extinguished due to Nazi destruction, expulsion and murder. Currently it numbers approximately 5,000.
Carl Moritz was a German architect and real-estate entrepreneur. Based in Cologne, he built the Cologne Opera House of 1902, and various banks, theatres and churches in Germany. Some of his buildings were destroyed during the last two years of his life in World War II.
Vincenz Statz was a Neo-Gothic German architect, mainly active in the Rhineland.
The Altenberger Dom is the former abbey church of Altenberg Abbey which was built from 1259 in Gothic style by Cistercians. Listed as a cultural heritage, it is located in Altenberg, now part of Odenthal in the Rheinisch-Bergischer Kreis, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. Until 1511, the church was the burial site of counts and dukes of Berg and the dukes of Jülich-Berg.
The Cologne Cathedral Window is the stained glass window in the south transept of the Cologne Cathedral designed by Cologne artist Gerhard Richter. On a surface of 106 square metres 11.263 glass squares in 72 colours of 9,6 cm × 9.6 cm were principally arranged randomly, with others selected in response to architectural context. The window was inaugurated on 25 August 2007 as part of a Eucharistic celebration; the abstract execution was both celebrated and strongly criticized.
Carl (Karl) Leibl was a German musician, conductor, cathedral organist and cathedral conductor in Cologne.
Bodo Balthasar von Dewitz was a German art historian. His work focused on historical photography.
Willy Weyres was a German architect and academic teacher. He was Kölner Dombaumeister from 1944 to 1972, diocesan master builder for the Archdiocese of Cologne for more than ten years, and full professor of architectural history and monument preservation at the RWTH Aachen from 1955 until his retirement in 1972. Under his leadership, the Cologne Cathedral was restored and further developed after the Second World War.
Karl Friedrich Heinrich Band was a German architect.
The Kölnische Stadtmuseum is the municipal history museum of Cologne, North Rhine-Westphalia, Germany. It is housed in the building of the historic Zeughaus with the adjacent Prussian Alte Wache Zeughaus.
Christian Schaller is a German architect working in Cologne and the Rhineland.
Arnold Wolff was a German architect. He was Cologne Cathedral Master Builder and head of the Dombauhütte of the Cologne Cathedral from 1972 to 1998. From 1986 to 1997, he was academic teacher for restoration and conservation at the Cologne University of Applied Sciences.
Maria Clementine Martin, birth name Wilhelmine Martin was the inventor of Klosterfrau Melissengeist, an alcoholic extract of herbs.
The finials of Cologne Cathedral from the tops of the two towers at a height of 149 to 157 metres. A copy of this finial in original size, but made of concrete, has stood below the steps in front of the west façade of the cathedral since 1991.
The Reifferscheider Hof or Linneper Hof was a manor of the Reifferscheid, Linnep, Sayn-Wittgenstein and Grafschaft Neuenahr families in erbvogteilichen Hacht district on the Domhof in Cologne, which was laid down in the 1740s. It was inhabited by members of the Cologne Cathedral Chapter and was a emphyteusis of the cathedral monastery. Today, the area is part of the grounds of the Romano-Germanic Museum.
The Taubenbrunnen is a fountain sculpture designed by Ewald Mataré and erected in 1953 in the Altstadt-Nord district of Cologne, situated directly in front of the west side of the Cologne Cathedral.
The Cologne Cathedral Seal was a section of unclad brickwork which covered destroyed masonry on an exterior pillar of Cologne Cathedral. In November 1943, during an air raid by the allies, a bomb seriously damaged a pillar on the northern tower of the cathedral, sparking fears for the structural integrity of the surrounding parts of the building. The missing sandstone was replaced with bricks by the spring of 1944, which remained visible on the north tower for over 60 years. As the last major war damage, the seal was repaired between 1995 and 2005 and faced with cut stone. Some experts had argued that the seal should be left undisguised as an anti-war memorial.