Hand feel

Last updated
A baby wearing many items of soft winter clothing: headband, cap, fur-lined coat, scarf and sweater Well-clothed baby.jpg
A baby wearing many items of soft winter clothing: headband, cap, fur-lined coat, scarf and sweater

Hand feel (Hand, Fabric hand, Fabric feel) is the property of fabrics related to the touch that expresses sensory comfort. It refers to the way fabrics feel against the skin or in the hand and conveys information about the cloth's softness and smoothness. Hand feel is an estimated and subjective property of different fabrics, but nowadays, hand feel could be measured and assessed statistically. [1] [2] [3]

Contents

Tactile senses

Our daily life experiences are profoundly influenced by the sense of touch. Touch is the first sense to develop, beginning in the first trimester of pregnancy. During the next few months in the womb, the baby's entire body develops touch receptors. Around 7 weeks into pregnancy, touch is the first sense to develop in the fetus. [4] [5] [6] Therefore, hand feel is an important characteristic of clothing that provides sensory comfort.

Hand feel (also called handle or drape [7] ) is one of the basic characteristics that are necessary for sensory comfort that is related to tactile comfort. [8] It is related to the friction between the clothes and the body. It is associated with smoothness, roughness, softness, and stiffness of clothing material. The degree of tactile discomfort may vary with individuals. Some of the terms that describe the tactile sensations are clingy, sticky, scratchy, prickly, soft, stiff, heavy, light and hard. [9]

Terms

There are different terms in use for describing the softness of textile materials. Wool trade term for the same is ''Handle'' or ''A good handling''. The opposing term is 'A poor handling' that suggests the material's poor or harsh hand feel. [10]

Objective

Fabrics during manufacturing becomes harsh that is undesirable hence they are made soft again for end users or useful input materials for subsequent processes. [11] The hand feel matters in selecting the fabrics for a particular category or line; for instance, softer clothes are preferred for children. Ladies' clothes are designed with lighter and softer than men's cloth. [1]

Softening and stiffening

Softening finishes are aimed to make materials, soft, in against to that stiffening finishes are intended to make materials, stiff in order to prevent sagging. Stiffening adds crispiness to the light sheer fabrics. Stiffening involves the application of thermoplastic resins and polymers. Parchmentising is a kind of finish that stiffens the treated cellulosic materials while imparting translucency. [12]

More objectives of hand feel are:

Fabric drape

Drape (draping or fabric drape) is the property of different textile materials how they fold, fall, or hang along with a three-dimensional body. Draping depends upon the fiber characteristics and the flexibility, looseness, and softness of the material.Drape finishes can also alter the draping properties of clothes. [8] [13] [14] Draping clothes embrace feminine beauty. [15] [16]

Loft

Hand feel adds compression resiliency; Soft fabrics tend to spring back to their original shape. [8]

Sewability

Soft fabrics are more compatible in sewing. Softness improves the sewability of the fabrics. [17] [18] [19] Handfeel helps not only in selling the goods and comfort but also aid in sewing (avoids stitching holes). [20]

Factors

Hand feel may vary with the composition, various yarn parameters (such as hairiness, twist and yarn count), and gsm (fabric weight), and fabric construction. [1] Some undesired acid, alkaline, and temperature treatments can make certain fabrics harsher. [21]

The judgement of fabrics on the scale of soft to harsh is affected by the following parameters.

Fiber properties and yarn

The staple length and diameter of the constituting fibers affect the softness of the materials. More considerable fiber length needs less twisting, and loosely twisted yarns tend to have a softer hand feel. Examples are egyptian, and pima cotton is softer than cotton with shorter fibers. The same is with Silk, and synthetic fibers that have infinite length are softer. [22] [23] [1] [24]

Surface contour

The surface contour of the fiber characterizes its outer surface along its shaft and may be rough, smooth, scaly, serrated, convoluted, or striated, all of which contribute to the friction, softness, and texture. The property is important for the texture and hand feel of the fabric that is made. [25] [26]

Fabric construction and thickness

The fabric construction and thickness of the cloth can present harsh or soft handfeel. Usually, the fine and lightweight structures with loose weave or knit constructions are more delicate until the twisted or textured yarns are not used. On the other hand, heavy, and thicker fabrics could be soft or harsh depending upon the after treatments and varied yarn forms. [27] [28]

Process

The feel of some fabrics like silk (satin), fine muslins (mulmul), rayon (modal or lyocell), nylon and microfibers' fabrics are naturally soft. Still, in large, it is manipulated with different processes and finishing techniques. Fabric softeners and certain surface finishes such as napping help improve the hand feel of fabrics. [29] [30] [31]

Fabric softeners

Fabric softeners are substances that aid in the softening, durability, and drape of fabrics. Softeners also help in providing body to the fabrics and they facilitate other finishing processes, such as wrinkle resistance finish where fabrics become stiffened due to the finish. Silicone compounds, substituted ammonium compounds, fats, wax emulsions, and oils are the most commonly used softening agents. [12]

Surface finishes

Surface finishes are the treatments that alter the surface and feel of the textiles. They include several mechanical and chemical applications.

Mechanical

Napping

Napping or Raising produces a soft and fibrous surface, it is a mechanical finish. A machine equipped with metallic wires that breaks the yarns and creates a fibrous surface on the surface.

Sueding

Sueding is a similar finish to napping, but it's a delicate finish; the arrangements on the machine, such as bristles, are softer. [32] [8]

Shearing

Shearing improves the appearance and feel of the fabric by cutting the loops or raised surface to a uniform and even height. [33]

Chemical

Mercerizing

Mercerizing improves the characteristics of the cellulosic materials and improves the feel and aesthetics of the treated fabrics.

Deweighting

Deweighting, or weight reduction, is a treatment for polyester to make it like silk. The treatment peels the surface and reduces the fiber weight and strength while making them softer and finer. Additionally, the treatment enhances the absorbency of the treated substrates. [34]

Bio polishing

Bio polishing or Enzyme wash is applicable in cellulosic fibers; it is a cellulase enzyme treatment that helps cut protruding fibers and produce a clean, lustrous and softer material. [8] [35]

Functional finishes

Functional finishes add value other than handfeel and aesthetics. [8] Moisture wicking is an example of functional finish that enhances the wearer's comfort.

Testing

So far, hand feel has been a subjectively judged parameter based on manual touch. But now, there are hand feel testers that can evaluate the quality with parameters of bending, roughness, compression, and friction. [36] [37] [38]

Tests

One of the instrumental test methods is  "AATCC TM 202:2014," which measures the "feels and looks" similar to manual sensory perceptions. [39]

Kawabata evaluation system

The Kawabata evaluation system predicts human responses and understands the perception of softness. Additionally, it can be used to determine the transient heat transfer properties associated with the sensation of coolness generated when fabrics come into contact with the skin while being worn. [40] [41]

Interactive touch-activated display

The interactive touch-activated display, also known as the "iTad," is a device equipped with multitouch sensing that can help feel images on a touch screen. [42]

How different fabrics feel when someone judges them manually

Manually evaluating the fabric's feel is subjective. Perceptions of different people may differ. Skillful assessment may require experience in the handling of different fabrics. Thermal conductivity also plays a role in how different fabrics feel.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile</span> Various fiber-based materials

Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yarn</span> Long continuous length of interlocked fibres

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile arts</span> Form of arts and crafts using fibers

Textile arts are arts and crafts that use plant, animal, or synthetic fibers to construct practical or decorative objects.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Velvet</span> Type of pile fabric

Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short, dense pile, giving it a distinctive soft feel. By extension, the word velvety means "smooth like velvet". In the past, velvet was typically made from silk. Today, velvet can be made from linen, cotton, wool and synthetic fibers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Worsted</span> Fabrics manufactured from worsted yarns.

Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead, a village in the English county of Norfolk. That village, together with North Walsham and Aylsham, formed a manufacturing centre for yarn and cloth in the 12th century, when pasture enclosure and liming rendered the East Anglian soil too rich for the older agrarian sheep breeds. In the same period, many weavers from the County of Flanders moved to Norfolk. "Worsted" yarns/fabrics are distinct from woollens : the former is considered stronger, finer, smoother, and harder than the latter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lyocell</span> Regenerated cellulose fiber made from dissolving pulp

Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fiber used to make textiles for clothing and other purposes. It is a form of regenerated cellulose made by dissolving pulp and dry jet-wet spinning. Unlike rayon made by some of the more common viscose processes, Lyocell production does not use carbon disulfide, which is toxic to workers and the environment. Lyocell was originally trademarked as Tencel in 1982.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drapery</span> Depiction of the folds and woven patterns of loose-hanging clothing on the human form

Drapery is a general word referring to cloths or textiles. It may refer to cloth used for decorative purposes – such as around windows – or to the trade of retailing cloth, originally mostly for clothing, formerly conducted by drapers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ninon</span> Lightweight, transparent sheer fabric

Ninon is a lightweight, sheer fabric made with plain or leno weaving, it is a suitable material for curtains, evening wear and lingerie. Ninon is made with variety of filament yarns such as polyester, silk, rayon or nylon.

A staple fiber is a textile fiber of discrete length. The opposite is a filament fiber, which comes in continuous lengths. Staple length is a characteristic fiber length of a sample of staple fibers. A fiber is made up of natural substances and it’s known for being longer than it is wide. It is an essential criterion in yarn spinning, and aids in cohesion and twisting. Compared to synthetic fibers, natural fibers tend to have different and shorter lengths. The quality of natural fibers like cotton is categorized on staple length such as short, medium, long staple, and extra-long. Gossypium barbadense, one of several cotton species, produces extra-long staple fibers. The staple fibers may be obtained from natural and synthetic sources. In the case of synthetics and blends, the filament yarns are cut to a predetermined length.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Finishing (textiles)</span> Manufacturing process

In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context.

Dimensional stability is the change of dimensions in textile products when they are washed or relaxed. The change is always expressed relative to the dimensions before the exposure of washing or relaxing. Shrinkage is also called residual shrinkage and measured in percentage. The major cause of shrinkages is the release of stresses and strains introduced in manufacturing processes. Textile manufacturing is based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, includes spinning, weaving, or knitting, etc. The fabric passes through many inevitable changes and mechanical forces during this journey. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium, and all stresses and strains are relaxed and the fabric tries to come back to its original state. The dimensional stability of textile materials is an important quality parameter. Failing and unstable materials can cause deforming of the garments or products. Shrinkage is tested at various stages, but most importantly before cutting the fabric into further sewn products and after cutting and sewing prior to supplying the products to buyers and consumers. It is a required parameter of quality control to ensure the sizes of the products to avoid any complaints regarding deformation or change in dimensions after domestic laundry. The tests are conducted with provided specifications of buyers imitating the same conditions like washing cycle time, temperature and water ratio and fabric load and sometimes top loading and front loading washing machines are chosen to authenticate the test and assurance of the results. This procedure provides standard and alternate home laundering conditions using an automatic washing machine. While the procedure includes several options, it is not possible to include every existing combination of laundering parameters. The test is applicable to all fabrics and end products suitable for home laundering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Comfort</span> Sense of physical or psychological ease

Comfort is a sense of physical or psychological ease, often characterized as a lack of hardship. Persons who are lacking in comfort are uncomfortable, or experiencing discomfort. A degree of psychological comfort can be achieved by recreating experiences that are associated with pleasant memories, such as engaging in familiar activities, maintaining the presence of familiar objects, and consumption of comfort foods. Comfort is a particular concern in health care, as providing comfort to the sick and injured is one goal of healthcare, and can facilitate recovery. Persons who are surrounded with things that provide psychological comfort may be described as being "in their comfort zone". Because of the personal nature of positive associations, psychological comfort is highly subjective.

Wet Processing Engineering is one of the major streams in Textile Engineering or Textile manufacturing which refers to the engineering of textile chemical processes and associated applied science. The other three streams in textile engineering are yarn engineering, fabric engineering, and apparel engineering. The processes of this stream are involved or carried out in an aqueous stage. Hence, it is called a wet process which usually covers pre-treatment, dyeing, printing, and finishing.

Moisture management or moisture-wicking is a functional property in fabrics that enables them to absorb moisture from the skin, spreading it over a large surface area, helps in drying quickly.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile performance</span> Fitness for purpose of textiles

Textile performance, also known as fitness for purpose, is a textile's capacity to withstand various conditions, environments, and hazards, qualifying it for particular uses. The performance of textile products influences their appearance, comfort, durability, and protection. Different textile applications require a different set of performance parameters. As a result, the specifications determine the level of performance of a textile product. Textile testing certifies the product's conformity to buying specification. It describes product manufactured for non-aesthetic purposes, where fitness for purpose is the primary criterion. Engineering of high performance fabrics presents a unique set of challenges.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chemical finishing of textiles</span> Chemical finishing methods that may alter the chemical properties of the treated fabrics

Chemical finishing of textiles refers to the process of applying and treating textiles with a variety of chemicals in order to achieve desired functional and aesthetic properties. Chemical finishing of textiles is a part of the textile finishing process where the emphasis is on chemical substances instead of mechanical finishing. Chemical finishing in textiles also known as wet finishing. Chemical finishing adds properties to the treated textiles. Softening of textiles, durable water repellancy and wrinkle free fabric finishes are examples of chemical finishing.

A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.

The surface contour of the fiber characterizes its outer surface along its shaft and may be rough, smooth, scaly, serrated, convoluted, or striated, all of which contribute to the friction, softness, and texture. The property is important for the texture and feel of the fabric that is made. Natural fibers, like cotton and wool, have a staple length and irregular, void-filled surface contours. The rough surface aids in the capture of fine particles. Due to the fact that they are not completely solid, they are more compressible. The fiber's microstructures include its cross section shape and surface contour.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Aesthetics (textile)</span> Concept of serviceability of textiles

Aesthetics in textiles is one of the basic concepts of serviceability of textiles. It is determined by the perception of touch and sight. Aesthetics imply the appearance and attraction of textile products; it includes the color and texture of the material. It is a statement about the end user (consumer) and the target market. When combined with fabric construction, the finish of the clothing material, garment fit, style, and fashion compatibility, colours create an aesthetic comfort. All of these elements work together to satisfy our visual perception. Aesthetics incorporates the role of evaluation also.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Textile testing</span> Process of measuring the properties and performance of textiles

Textile testing is the process of measuring the properties and performance of textile materials—textile testing includes physical and chemical testing of raw materials to finished products.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 "Fabric Hand - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-03-06.
  2. ↑ Wilusz, E. (2008-05-21). Military Textiles. Elsevier. p. 86. ISBN   978-1-84569-451-7.
  3. ↑ Purushothama, B. (2019-01-31). Handbook of Value Addition Processes for Fabrics. Woodhead Publishing India PVT. Limited. p. 380. ISBN   978-93-85059-92-6.
  4. ↑ Advances in Child Development and Behavior. Academic Press. 2017-02-18. p. 228. ISBN   978-0-12-812173-3.
  5. ↑ Bremner, Andrew J.; Lewkowicz, David J.; Spence, Charles (2012-06-21). Multisensory Development. OUP Oxford. p. 7. ISBN   978-0-19-162758-3.
  6. ↑ "The first sense a baby develops: Touch". BabyCenter. Retrieved 2022-12-18.
  7. ↑ Wilson, Kax (1979). A history of textiles. Internet Archive. Boulder, Colo. : Westview Press. p. 346. ISBN   978-0-89158-491-9.
  8. 1 2 3 4 5 6 Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. pp. 22, 23, 25, 392, 408, 407. ISBN   978-0-13-494592-7.
  9. ↑ Song, Guowen (2011). Improving Comfort in Clothing. Woodhead Publishing. pp. 223, 235, 237, 427. ISBN   9780857090645.
  10. ↑ Hind, John Richard (1934). Woollen & Worsted Raw Materials: Covering the Syllabus of the City and Guilds of London Examinations in These Subjects. Ernest Benn. p. 40.
  11. ↑ Hummel, John James (1885). The dyeing of textile fabrics. p. 237.
  12. 1 2 Joseph, Marjory L. (1992). Joseph's introductory textile science. Internet Archive. Fort Worth : Harcourt Brace Jovanovich College Publishers. p. 343. ISBN   978-0-03-050723-6.
  13. ↑ Sinclair, Rose (2014-11-08). Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology. Elsevier. p. 727. ISBN   978-0-85709-561-9.
  14. ↑ Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. p. 289. ISBN   978-0-13-494592-7.
  15. ↑ Baines, Barbara Burman (1981). Fashion Revivals: From the Elizabethan Age to the Present Day. Batsford. p. 61. ISBN   978-0-7134-1929-0.
  16. ↑ Shukla, Pravina (2008). The Grace of Four Moons: Dress, Adornment, and the Art of the Body in Modern India. Indiana University Press. p. 166. ISBN   978-0-253-34911-8.
  17. ↑ Dyer, Elizabeth (1927). Textile Fabrics. Houghton Mifflin. p. 341.
  18. ↑ Dooley, William Henry (1930). Clothing and Style: For Dressmakers, Milliners, Buyers, Designers, Students of Clothing, and Stylers. D. C. Heath. p. 284.
  19. ↑ Mead, Marjorie Elaine; Siemen, Esther Ella; Sohn, Marjorie Ann (1975). Learning to Sew. Cooperative Extension Service, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. p. 21.
  20. ↑ "Fabric Softness - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-03-06.
  21. ↑ Army, United States Department of the (1972). Technical Manual: TM. p. 7.
  22. ↑ Nielson, Karla J. (2007-07-10). Interior Textiles: Fabrics, Application, and Historic Style. John Wiley & Sons. p. 218. ISBN   978-0-471-60640-6.
  23. ↑ Fourt, Lyman Edwin (1970). Clothing : comfort and function. Internet Archive. New York : M. Dekker. pp. 165–167. ISBN   978-0-8247-1214-3.
  24. ↑ Hollen, Norma R.; Hollen, Norma R. Textiles (1988). Textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Macmillan. p. 6. ISBN   978-0-02-367530-0.
  25. ↑ Hollen, Norma Rosamond (1979). Textiles. Internet Archive. New York : Macmillan. p. 7. ISBN   978-0-02-356130-6.
  26. ↑ Kadolph (2009). Textiles. Pearson Education. p. 22. ISBN   978-81-317-2570-2.
  27. ↑ "Fabric Thickness - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  28. ↑ Textile Asia. Business Press. 1993. p. 34.
  29. ↑ Inc, Time (1952-03-10). LIFE. Time Inc. p. 143.{{cite book}}: |last= has generic name (help)
  30. ↑ Knecht, Edmund (1911). "Finishing" . In Chisholm, Hugh (ed.). Encyclopædia Britannica . 10 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. pp. 378–382.
  31. ↑ The Indian Textile Journal. Indian Textile Journal Limited. 2012. p. 98.
  32. ↑ Choudhury, Asim Kumar Roy (2017-04-29). Principles of Textile Finishing. Woodhead Publishing. p. 31. ISBN   978-0-08-100661-0.
  33. ↑ Elsasser, Virginia Hencken (2005). Textiles : concepts and principles. Internet Archive. New York, NY : Fairchild Publications. p. 197. ISBN   978-1-56367-300-9.
  34. ↑ Kolanjikombil, Mathews (2019). Pretreatment of Textile Substrates. Woodhead Publishing India. pp. 116, 117. ISBN   978-93-85059-99-5.
  35. ↑ Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Merrill. p. 297. ISBN   978-0-13-494592-7.
  36. ↑ Intertek's High Performance Textile Testing - Fabric Touch Test (FTT) , retrieved 2021-04-28
  37. ↑ An analysis of fabric 'hand' and 'feel '
  38. ↑ "Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing - an overview | ScienceDirect Topics". www.sciencedirect.com. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  39. ↑ "AATCC Test Methods - Textile Testing Research and Development". AATCC. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  40. ↑ Allerkamp, Dennis (2010-09-08). Tactile Perception of Textiles in a Virtual-Reality System. Springer Science & Business Media. p. 53. ISBN   978-3-642-13974-1.
  41. ↑ Harwood, R. J.; Weedall, P. J.; Carr, C. (1990). "The use of the Kawabata Evaluation System for product development and quality control". Journal of the Society of Dyers and Colourists. 106 (2): 64–68. doi:10.1111/j.1478-4408.1990.tb01244.x. ISSN   1478-4408.
  42. ↑ "IIT Madras Researchers Create Touch Screen Which Can Help You 'Feel' Images". News18. 2022-10-17. Retrieved 2022-12-18.
  43. ↑ Potter, Maurice David; Corbman, Bernard P. (1967). Textiles: fiber to fabric. Internet Archive. New York, Gregg Division, McGraw-Hill. p. 17.
This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.