Imja Tse

Last updated
Imja Tse
Island Peak
ImjaTse.jpg
An island in a sea of ice
Highest point
Elevation 6,165 m (20,226 ft) [1] [2]
Listing Mountains of Nepal
Coordinates 27°55′15″N86°56′07″E / 27.92079°N 86.93516°E / 27.92079; 86.93516 [2]
Geography
Nepal rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Imja Tse
Location in NE Nepal
Country Nepal
Region Khumbu
District Solukhumbu
Protected area Sagarmatha National Park
Parent range Khumbu Himal
Climbing
First ascent 1956 by Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten and 2 unknown Sherpas
Easiest route North Ridge PD+
glacier/scrambling/ice climbing

Imja Tse, better known as Island Peak, is a mountain in Sagarmatha National Park in the Himalayas of eastern Nepal. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by members of the British Mount Everest expedition because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. [3] The peak was later renamed in 1983 to Imja Tse but Island Peak remains the popular choice. [4] The peak is actually an extension of the ridge coming down off the south end of Lhotse Shar.

Contents

The southwest summit of Imja Tse was first climbed in 1953 as part of a training exercise by a British expedition that went on to summit Mount Everest. The team that climbed Imja Tse comprised Tenzing Norgay, Charles Evans, Alfred Gregory, Charles Wylie and seven other Sherpas. The main summit was first climbed in 1956 by Hans-Rudolf Von Gunten and two unknown Sherpas, members of a Swiss team that went on to make the second ascent of Everest and the first ascent of Lhotse. [5] [6]

Negotiating crevasses in snowfield along the route to the summit of Imja Tse. Alonzo-lyons-imja-tse-island-peak-nepal-DSCN6013.jpg
Negotiating crevasses in snowfield along the route to the summit of Imja Tse.

Climbing route

Sign indicating the route to Imja Tse high camp. Alonzo-lyons-imja-tse-island-peak-sign-DSCN5840.jpg
Sign indicating the route to Imja Tse high camp.
Climber taking the final few steps onto the 6,165 m (20,226 ft) summit of Imja Tse (Island Peak) in Nepal, 2004 Summitting Island Peak.jpg
Climber taking the final few steps onto the 6,165 m (20,226 ft) summit of Imja Tse (Island Peak) in Nepal, 2004

To climb Island Peak, one has the option of starting from a base camp at 5,087 metres (16,690 ft) called Pareshaya Gyab and starting the climb between 2 and 3 A.M. Another popular option is to ascend to High Camp at around 5,600 metres (18,400 ft) to reduce the amount of effort and time needed for summit day. However, an adequate water supply and concerns about sleeping at a higher altitude may dictate starting from base camp. Base camp to high camp is basically a hike but just above high camp, some rocky steps require moderate scrambling up through a broad open gully. At the top of the gully, glacier travel begins and proceeds up a steep snow and ice slope. From here, fixed ropes may be set up by the guides for the strenuous ascent of nearly 100 metres (330 ft) to the summit ridge. The climb to the summit is somewhat difficult due to steep climbing. On top, while Mount Everest is a mere ten kilometres away to the north, the view is blocked by the massive wall of Lhotse, towering 2,300 m (7,500 ft) above the summit.

Headwall crevasse

A substantial crevasse along most of the headwall leading to the summit ridge has sometimes caused teams to turn back. In April 2009, the Nepal Mountaineering Association tasked the Nepal Mountaineering Instructors' Association with installing stairs (ladders) at the crevasse. [7] As of the 2016 fall climbing season, a 5-metre high fixed aluminum ladder is being used to cross the crevasse.

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">K2</span> 2nd-highest mountain on Earth

K2, at 8,611 metres (28,251 ft) above sea level, is the second-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest at 8,849 metres (29,032 ft). It lies in the Karakoram range, partially in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir and partially in the China-administered Trans-Karakoram Tract in the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Everest</span> Earths highest mountain

Mount Everest, known locally as Sagarmatha or Qomolangma, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation of 8,848.86 m was most recently established in 2020 by the Chinese and Nepali authorities.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lhotse</span> Eight-thousander and 4th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Lhotse is the fourth-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. At an elevation of 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, the main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eight-thousander</span> Mountain peaks of over 8,000 m

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dhaulagiri</span> Eight-thousander and 7th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I is 34 km (21 mi) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nuptse</span> Mountain in Nepal

Nuptse or Nubtse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Mahalangur Himal, in the Nepalese Himalayas. It lies 2 km (1.2 mi) WSW of Mount Everest. The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of 7,861 m (25,791 ft), was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by Dennis Davis and Sherpa Tashi. After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tengboche</span> Place in Province No. 1, Nepal

Tengboche is a village in Khumbu Pasanglhamu rural municipality in the Khumbu subregion of Province No. 1 in Nepal, located at 3,867 metres (12,687 ft). Within the village is an important Buddhist monastery, Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. The structure was built in 1923. In 1934, it was destroyed by an earthquake but subsequently rebuilt. It was destroyed again by a fire in 1989, and again rebuilt with the help of volunteers and the provision of foreign aid. Tengboche has a panoramic view of the Himalayan mountains, including the well-known peaks of Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. Tenzing Norgay, the first man to reach the summit of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary, was born in the area in the village of Thani and was once sent to Tengboche Monastery to be a monk.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kamet</span> Mountain in Uttarakhand, India

Kamet is the second-highest mountain in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand, India, after Nanda Devi. It is the 29th highest mountain in the world. It lies in the Chamoli District of Uttarakhand. Its appearance resembles a giant pyramid topped by a flat summit area with two peaks.

Lieutenant Colonel James Owen Merion Roberts MVO MBE MC was one of the greatest Himalayan mountaineer-explorers of the twentieth century; a highly decorated British Army officer who achieved his greatest renown as "the father of trekking" in Nepal. His exploratory activities are comparable to those of Eric Shipton and Bill Tilman.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mera Peak</span> Mountain peak in Nepal

Mera Peak is a mountain in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalaya and administratively in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Sankhuwasabha. At 6,476 metres (21,247 ft) it is classified as a trekking peak. It contains three main summits: Mera North, 6,476 metres (21,247 ft); Mera Central, 6,461 metres (21,198 ft); and Mera South, 6,065 metres (19,898 ft), as well as a smaller "trekking summit", visible as a distinct summit from the south but not marked on most maps of the region.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Zemu Gap Peak</span> Peak in the Himalayas

Zemu Gap Peak or Zemu Peak is a peak on a high ridge running east of the south summit of Kangchenjunga in the Himalayas. It is located in Sikkim, India

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Timeline of Mount Everest expeditions</span>

Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at 8,849 metres (29,031.7 ft) above sea level. It is situated in the Himalayan range of Solukhumbu district, Nepal.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Imja Khola</span> River in Nepal

The Imja Khola is a tributary of the Dudh Kosi river in eastern Nepal. It drains the slopes of Mount Everest. The Khumbu Glacier melts into the Lobujya (Lobuche) River, which flows southward as the Imja Khola to its confluence with the Dudh Kosi at Tengboche.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hornbein Couloir</span> Gully on the north face of Mount Everest

The Hornbein Couloir is a narrow and steep couloir high to the west on the north face of Mount Everest in Tibet, that extends from about 8,000 to 8,500 m elevation, 350 metres below the summit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition</span> First attempt to find a route to climb Mount Everest

The 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition set off to explore how it might be possible to get to the vicinity of Mount Everest, to reconnoitre possible routes for ascending the mountain, and – if possible – make the first ascent of the highest mountain in the world. At that time Nepal was closed to foreigners, so any approach had to be from the north, through Tibet. A feasible route was discovered from the east up the Kharta Glacier and then crossing the Lhakpa La pass north east of Everest. It was then necessary to descend to the East Rongbuk Glacier before climbing again to Everest's North Col. However, although the North Col was reached, it was not possible to climb further before the expedition had to withdraw.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Asian Trekking</span> Adventure travel company

Asian Trekking is a Nepal-based adventure company, specializing in mountaineering expeditions and trekking in the Himalayas. Started in 1982 by UIAA Honorary Member Ang Tshering Sherpa, it is Nepal's oldest mountaineering and trekking company still in operation. In 2008, Tshering's son Dawa Steven Sherpa, an environmentalist and mountaineer, took leadership of the company.

After World War II, with Tibet closing its borders and Nepal becoming considerably more open, Mount Everest reconnaissance from Nepal became possible for the first time culminating in the successful ascent of 1953. In 1950 there was a highly informal trek to what was to become Everest Base Camp and photographs were taken of a possible route ahead. Next year the 1951 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition reconnoitred various possible routes to Mount Everest from the south and the only one they considered feasible was the one via the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm and South Col. In 1952, while the Swiss were making an attempt on the summit that nearly succeeded; the 1952 British Cho Oyu expedition practised high-altitude Himalayan techniques on Cho Oyu, nearby to the west.

The 1951 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition ran between 27 August 1951 and 21 November 1951 with Eric Shipton as leader.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition</span> First ascent of the 3rd highest mountain

The 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition succeeded in climbing the 28,168-foot (8,586 m) Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, for the first time. The expedition complied with a request from the Sikkim authorities that the summit should not be trodden on so the climbers deliberately stopped about five feet below the summit. George Band and Joe Brown reached the top on 25 May 1955, and they were followed the next day by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. The expedition was led by Charles Evans who had been deputy leader on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1955 French Makalu expedition</span> First ascent of fifth-highest mountain in the world

The 1955 French Makalu expedition was the first to successfully climb Makalu, the Himalayan mountain 12 miles (19 km) to the southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. At 8,485 metres (27,838 ft) Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world and an eight-thousander.

References

  1. 1 2 "NMA Expedition Peaks". nepalmountaineering.org. Archived from the original on 6 March 2023. Retrieved 8 May 2023.
  2. 1 2 "Topographic map of Island Peak". opentopomap.org. Retrieved 8 May 2023.
  3. Wylie, Charles (1954). "Everest, 1953". Himalayan Journal. 18. Retrieved 13 July 2018.
  4. "Imja Tse". Nepal Mountaineering Association. Retrieved 23 May 2009.
  5. O'Connor, Bill (1989). The Trekking Peaks of Nepal. The Crowood Press. p. 74.
  6. "Himalayan Database The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley" . Retrieved 13 July 2018.
  7. "Newsletter of the Nepal Mountaineering Association". Nepal Mountaineering Association. Archived from the original on 2016-10-29. Retrieved 29 October 2016.