Josef Rakoncaj

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Josef Rakoncaj
Josef Rakoncaj.jpg
Personal information
Main discipline Alpine climbing
Born (1951-04-06) 6 April 1951 (age 72)
Dvůr Králové nad Labem, Czechoslovakia
Nationality Czech
Career
Notable ascentsFirst in the world to climb K2 twice
Family
ChildrenSon Lukáš, daughter Lucie

Josef "Rak" Rakoncaj (born 6 April 1951) is a Czech mountaineer, mountaineering coach, author of books on mountaineering and also an entrepreneur in the field of special clothing and equipment for trekking and mountaineering expeditions.

Contents

He was born in Dvůr Králové nad Labem. He started with climbing on the local sandstone in Bohemian Paradise, where he has registered 54 First ascents. [1] [2] [3] Internationally he is known for being the first person in the world to climb the summit of K2 (the second highest mountain in the world) twice – in 1983 and 1986. [2] [4] For the first of these two successful ascents, Rakoncaj was a member of the 1983 Italian expedition led by Francesco Santon, which made the second successful ascent of the North Ridge (31 July 1983). Three years later, on 5 July 1986, he reached the summit via the Abruzzi Spur (double with Broad Peak West Face solo) as a member of Agostino da Polenza's international expedition. [4]

Together with Radek Jaroš he is one of the most successful Czech climbers based on the number of successful ascents of eight-thousanders. He has never used supplemental bottled oxygen, as he considers that unsportsmanlike. [3] He has written several books about his climbing career. [5]

He is married, has son Lukáš and daughter Lucie. [2] His interests include piloting ultralight aircraft. [2]

Notable early successful ascents below 8000 m

Ascents of the eight-thousanders

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References

  1. "Josef 'Rak' Rakoncaj". www.skalnioblasti.cz. Archived from the original on 15 November 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  2. 1 2 3 4 "Neuvěřitelný bivak na vrcholu K2 i obdivované prvovýstupy. Rakoncajovi je 70 | Aktuálně.cz". Aktuálně.cz (in Czech). 6 April 2021. Archived from the original on 3 June 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  3. 1 2 "Josef Rakoncaj – Dvakrát na K2 a zásadně bez kyslíku". ČT24 (in Czech). Archived from the original on 29 September 2020. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  4. 1 2 "AAC Publications - Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak and K2". publications.americanalpineclub.org. Archived from the original on 6 May 2019. Retrieved 28 June 2022.
  5. "Měl jsem kliku. Josef Rakoncaj a Miloň Jasanský". National Geographic Česko (in Czech). Archived from the original on 16 April 2021. Retrieved 3 July 2022.
  6. "The HJ/41/5 CZECHOSLOVAK EXPEDITION TO LHOTSE SHAR, 1984". The HJ/41/5 CZECHOSLOVAK EXPEDITION TO LHOTSE SHAR, 1984. Archived from the original on 15 June 2022. Retrieved 3 July 2022.