This article may contain an excessive amount of intricate detail that may interest only a particular audience.(September 2024) |
Seed beads or rocailles [1] [2] are uniformly shaped, spheroidal beads ranging in size from under a millimeter to several millimeters. Seed bead is also a generic term for any small bead. Usually rounded in shape, seed beads are most commonly used for loom and off-loom bead weaving. They may be used for simple stringing, or as spacers between other beads in jewelry.
Larger seed beads are used in various fiber crafts for embellishment, or crochet with fiber or soft, flexible wire. The largest size of a seed bead is 1/0 ("one-aught", sometimes written 1/°) and the smallest is 24/0, about the size of a grain of sand. [3] However, seed beads that are size 5/0 or 6/0 are usually called "pony beads" rather than "seed beads"; the next larger class of seed beads, from 3/0 to 4/0, are usually called "trade beads"; the largest class of seed beads, including 1/0, 2/0, and anything larger, are usually referred to as "crow beads." The range of seed beads in most modern seed bead work covers the sizes 6/0, 8/0, 11/0, 12/0, 13/0 and 15/0. Sizes 6/0, 8/0 and 11/0 are often used in beaded knitting, as well as bead knitting. The extremely small class of seed beads smaller than 15/0 have not been in production since the 1890s and any in existence are usually considered antiques. [4]
The very small holes in the centers of most seed beads means that stringing them usually requires the use of a specialized long narrow needle called a beading needle.
Two principal techniques are used to produce seed beads: the wound method and the drawn method. The wound method is the more-traditional technique, is more time-consuming, and is no longer used in modern bead production: in this technique, a chunk of glass known in glassmaking as a gather and composed mainly of silica is heated on an iron bar until molten. A second bar of iron is then inserted into the gather and the two bars quickly drawn apart creating a long glass rod (the final width of which would depend on how quickly and how far the bars are separated before the glass solidifies). This rod is then cut into shorter rods for handling. Next, one of these is re-heated and wound around a hot metal wire creating a ring of glass which is then worked and shaped until smooth and round. This is done several times on the same wire creating a series of glass rings. Once the wire cools, the rings are slipped off and then used as beads. For the drawn method, an air bubble is created within the gather and as the iron bars are drawn apart they produce a long tube rather than a rod. This tube is then cooled, cut into rings, and the rings are tumbled to remove sharp edges before being used as beads. [5]
Before World War II, there was a thriving bead industry centered in eastern Europe, especially in Bohemia, before 1918 a part of the Austro-Hungarian empire and a part of the Republic of Czechoslovakia after, although Germany, Italy and France were also noted producers of glass beads. Most of these beads were made of glass, but some were made of metal, usually aluminum or steel, and often cut in what is known as "three-cut" faceting; these are popularly known as steel cuts. Many of the old factories were converted or destroyed during World War II. After the fall of the Iron Curtain, treasure troves of old beads made their way to Western markets. These "vintage" beads are highly prized, and are now harder to find.
Most contemporary high-quality seed beads are made in Japan, India, or the Czech Republic. Japanese seed beads are generally more uniform in size, shape, and finish as well as having larger holes than Czech seed beads of the same size, but the Japanese make fewer styles.
Some seed beads produced in France are available in historic "old-time" colors and are popular for use in repairing or replicating antiquities.
Lesser quality seed beads are produced in India, in People's Republic of China (PRC) and in Taiwan. Beads from these countries are less uniform in shape, hole size and finish. Dyed seed beads may transfer the dye to clothing or skin. Other seed beads have an external coating that will rub away to reveal a completely different color underneath.
Generally, less expensive beads are more susceptible to the ravages of time no matter their country of origin.
Formulas for different colors of glass are closely guarded. The recipe for a true black glass was lost during World War I, [6] and modern black glass held to sunlight is a deep purple. Examples of true black glass are circulating in jewelry pieces made to commemorate the funeral of Queen Victoria.
Glass rods made with concentric layers of color or stripes of color can be used to make patterns of color in seed beads.
Seed bead machinery uses glass rods softened to a red heat, fed into a steel die stamp that forms the shape of the bead with a reciprocating needle that forms the hole. Manual and automatic machinery is in use in the Czech Republic. As the steel dies wear eventually, they are replaced.
During the last few decades, a new shape of Japanese seed bead, the cylinder bead, has become increasingly popular. They were invented by Masayoshi Katsuoka of the Miyuki Shoji Company in the 1980s. [3] Unlike the more rounded donut-shaped rocaille seed beads, cylinder beads have large holes for their size, and their diameters, inside and out, have little variation. Their flattened ends mean that bead work created with cylinder beads has a flat, smooth texture. Rows and columns in weaving line up more uniformly, so detailed pattern work comes out more accurate and even. [7] These beads are more expensive than round seed beads, although the reduced weight of the thin walled cylinder beads results in more beads per gram.
There are three versions of cylinder beads:
One cut or true cut beads have a flat surface cut into the bead that produces a shine or sparkle when reflecting light. Cut beads that are size 13/0 are referred to as "Charlottes." [8] However, many people refer to all single cut beads as Charlotte cut. [9] [10]
There are three-cut beads which are "barrel faceted", meaning they start with a round bead and make more random machine cuts, creating a nugget like bead. Then in a class of their own is the two-cut seed bead. These never started out as a round bead, but rather the raw cane has been shaved and cut. [11]
Bugle beads are longer than they are thick, creating a tubular shape. They have different lengths ranging from 2mm, 3mm to 35mm in length, and may be plain, twisted or faceted (cut). [12] The smallest, #0 at 2mm, is produced by the Toho company.
Bugle beads are sold by size (length) commonly designated as #1 - 3mm, #2 - 4mm, #3 - 6mm, #4 -12mm, and larger (longer) without a number designation, i.e. 30mm, 35mm. The Miyuki bead company designates their bugle beads as #1 - 3mm, #2 - 6mm, #3 - 9mm, #4 - 12mm. [13]
Bugle beads may have round or square holes, which are from .6mm to 1.2mm, getting larger as the length increases.
The style and or finish of bugle beads correspond to the range of styles produced by each company. Many companies provide sample cards which can be viewed digitally on their websites. [13] [14] [15] [16]
The aught system of classifying seed beads is widely used but is imprecise and variable between manufacturers. The measurements given below for bead diameter are meant to suggest the industry standard but are not absolute—in fact, variation from one manufacturer to the next may be greater than the variation within a single aught-size of bead. [17] [18] [19]
The aught size of a bead is usually given either as a number followed by a superscripted zero, e.g., 8°, or most often as a number followed by a slash and a zero, e.g., 8/0. Regardless, this is spoken as, "Eight aught", though the "aught" portion is regularly ignored and an 8/0 size seed bead would usually be described as simply as "Size eight" or "an 8 bead."
Aught size | Diameter (mm) |
---|---|
1/0 | 6.5 |
2/0 | 6.0 |
3/0 | 5.5 |
4/0 | 5.0 |
5/0 | 4.5 |
6/0 | 4.0–4.3 |
7/0 | 3.4–4.0 |
8/0 | 2.5–3.1 |
9/0 | 2.2–2.7 |
10/0 | 2.0–2.3 |
11/0 | 1.8–2.1 |
12/0 | 1.7–1.9 |
13/0 | 1.5–1.7 |
14/0 | 1.4–1.6 |
15/0 | 1.30–1.40 |
16/0 | 1.25–1.35 |
17/0 | 1.2 |
18/0 | 1.15–1.20 |
20/0 | 1.0–1.17 |
22/0 | 1.02 |
24/0 | 0.91 |
Seed beads are sold either by hank, gram weight or tube. Style of glass (opaque, transparent, matte) and finish, color, and name may (or may not) be listed along with the companies product number. Names (colors) are often created by the retailer to entice purchases, and vary by retailer. A few carry over from the manufacturers and are used by most retailers: African Sunset Gold #329 by Toho is one example.
A hank is unit bundle of strands of seed beads or bugle beads. [20] A typical hank has twelve 20" (51 cm) strands of beads. [3] Different sizes and types of beads may be sold in hanks which have different numbers and lengths of strands. Different hanks (age, type, size) have from 8 to 14 strands, and lengths vary from 8 to 20 inches per strand. For example, Charlotte size 13/0 cut beads are generally on short hanks, containing 12 twelve-inch strands. Some vintage 18/0 hanks have 10 strands of 8–10 inches (200 to 250 mm) each. 1 hank = 3.333 fathoms = 6.667 yards = 20 feet = 6096mm = 609.6 cm = 6.096 meters = x grams.
Czech seed beads are sold from the factories by boxes, bags or strands. [21] They are often repackaged into hanks, tubes, or other containers for retail sale, in quantities varying from 5 grams to 40 or more grams. When Czech beads are repackaged, they are usually sold by the gram, which creates some confusion on how many beads come on a hank. Not every 20 inch strand of size 11/0 beads weighs the same. However, there are some online calculators, which can be used for conversion from hanks to grams and from grams to hanks.
A hank of size 2/0 bugles or size 11/0 seed beads generally weighs between 30 and 40 grams, depending on manufacturing variations, coatings or linings. Purchasing Czech beads by the hank is usually a better value than repackaged beads.
A production run of a custom made seed bead is eight kilograms. The beads are produced in the Czech Republic using a ten kilogram rod of color glass. The excess glass is recycled to form new rods. The color glass rods are produced from a larger mass melt of some ten metric tons.
Japanese beads are sold by gram weight, seldom by the hank. Buying Japanese beads by the hank usually costs about twice as much, therefore, they are not usually sold or purchased from Japan in this manner.
Most Japanese seed beads are repackaged for retail sale in manageable quantities based on price codes. More expensive beads (precious metals) may be sold in 2.5 or 5 gram units. Standard Japanese seed beads are usually sold in approximately 5 or 10 gram packages.
One major supplier, Miyuki, sells factory packages which contain up to 1 kg of beads, and are almost always repackaged into tubes or other containers for retail sale. To accommodate the average "wholesale" customer, whether it be a bead shop or designer, some larger distributors have made deals to receive their wholesale packages of beads in smaller (50 to 250 gram) pre-packaged sizes.
Toho, a major Japanese supplier, seems to have a more flexible packaging policy. Many of the tubed seed beads that can be found in craft stores are stamped with their name on the bottoms, indicating both a wholesale and retail packaging setup.
Beadwork is the art or craft of attaching beads to one another by stringing them onto a thread or thin wire with a sewing or beading needle or sewing them to cloth. Beads are produced in a diverse range of materials, shapes, and sizes, and vary by the kind of art produced. Most often, beadwork is a form of personal adornment, but it also commonly makes up other artworks.
A bead is a small, decorative object that is formed in a variety of shapes and sizes of a material such as stone, bone, shell, glass, plastic, wood, or pearl and with a small hole for threading or stringing. Beads range in size from under 1 millimeter (0.039 in) to over 1 centimeter (0.39 in) in diameter.
A pearl is a hard, glistening object produced within the soft tissue of a living shelled mollusk or another animal, such as fossil conulariids. Just like the shell of a mollusk, a pearl is composed of calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form, which has deposited in concentric layers. The ideal pearl is perfectly round and smooth, but many other shapes, known as baroque pearls, can occur. The finest quality of natural pearls have been highly valued as gemstones and objects of beauty for many centuries. Because of this, pearl has become a metaphor for something rare, fine, admirable and valuable.
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing. Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for needlework. Yarn can be made of a number of natural or synthetic materials, and comes in a variety of colors and thicknesses. Although yarn may be dyed different colours, most yarns are solid coloured with a uniform hue.
A color gel or color filter, also known as lighting gel or simply gel, is a transparent colored material that is used in theater, event production, photography, videography and cinematography to color light and for color correction. Modern gels are thin sheets of polycarbonate, polyester or other heat-resistant plastics, placed in front of a lighting fixture in the path of the beam.
Glassblowing is a glassforming technique that involves inflating molten glass into a bubble with the aid of a blowpipe. A person who blows glass is called a glassblower, glassmith, or gaffer. A lampworker manipulates glass with the use of a torch on a smaller scale, such as in producing precision laboratory glassware out of borosilicate glass.
A japamala, jaap maala, or simply mala is a loop of prayer beads commonly used in Indian religions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism. It is used for counting recitations (japa) of mantras, prayers or other sacred phrases. It is also worn to ward off evil, to count repetitions within some other form of sadhana such as prostrations before a holy icon. They are also used as symbols of religious identification.
Sausage casing, also known as sausage skin or simply casing, is the material that encloses the filling of a sausage. Natural casings are made from animal intestines or skin; artificial casings, introduced in the early 20th century, are made of collagen and cellulose. The material is then shaped via a continuous extrusion process—producing a single sausage casing of indefinite length—which is then cut into desired lengths, usually while the extrusion process continues.
Extrusion is a process used to create objects of a fixed cross-sectional profile by pushing material through a die of the desired cross-section. Its two main advantages over other manufacturing processes are its ability to create very complex cross-sections; and to work materials that are brittle, because the material encounters only compressive and shear stresses. It also creates excellent surface finish and gives considerable freedom of form in the design process.
Lampworking is a type of glasswork in which a torch or lamp is used to melt the glass. Once in a molten state, the glass is formed by blowing and shaping with tools and hand movements. It is also known as flameworking or torchworking, as the modern practice no longer uses oil-fueled lamps. Although lack of a precise definition for lampworking makes it difficult to determine when this technique was first developed, the earliest verifiable lampworked glass is probably a collection of beads thought to date to the fifth century BCE. Lampworking became widely practiced in Murano, Italy in the 14th century. As early as the 17th century, itinerant glassworkers demonstrated lampworking to the public. In the mid-19th century lampwork technique was extended to the production of paperweights, primarily in France, where it became a popular art form, still collected today. Lampworking differs from glassblowing in that glassblowing uses a furnace as the primary heat source, although torches are also used.
Fly tying is the process of producing an artificial fly used by fly fishing anglers to catch fish. Fly tying is a manual process done by a single individual using hand tools and a variety of natural and manmade materials that are attached to a hook. Although the recent history of fly tying dates from the middle 1800s, fly tyers were engaged in tying flies since at least 200 AD.
Prayer beads are a form of beadwork used to count the repetitions of prayers, chants, or mantras by members of various religions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Shinto, Umbanda, Islam, Sikhism, the Baháʼí Faith, and some Christian denominations, such as the Roman Catholic Church, the Lutheran Church, the Oriental Orthodox Churches, and the Eastern Orthodox Churches. Common forms of beaded devotion include the mequteria in Oriental Orthodox Christianity, the chotki or komposkini or prayer rope in Eastern Orthodox Christianity, the Wreath of Christ in Lutheran Christianity, the Dominican rosary of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Roman Catholic Christianity, the dhikr in Islam, the japamala in Buddhism and Hinduism, and the Jaap Sahib in Sikhism.
Glass bead making has long traditions, with the oldest known beads dating over 3,000 years. Glass beads have been dated back to at least Roman times. Perhaps the earliest glass-like beads were Egyptian faience beads, a form of clay bead with a self-forming vitreous coating. Glass beads are significant in archaeology because the presence of glass beads often indicate that there was trade and that the bead making technology was being spread. In addition, the composition of the glass beads could be analyzed and help archaeologists understand the sources of the beads.
Chevron beads are special glass beads; the first specimens of this type were created by glass bead makers in Venice and Murano, Italy, toward the end of the 14th century. The first examples were invented by Marietta Barovier. They may also be referred to as rosetta, or star beads. The term rosetta first appeared in the inventory of the Barovier Glass works in Murano, in 1496, in context with beads as well as with other glass objects.
In glassblowing, cane refers to rods of glass with color; these rods can be simple, containing a single color, or they can be complex and contain strands of one or several colors in pattern. Caneworking refers to the process of making cane, and also to the use of pieces of cane, lengthwise, in the blowing process to add intricate, often spiral, patterns and stripes to vessels or other blown glass objects. Cane is also used to make murrine, thin discs cut from the cane in cross-section that are also added to blown or hot-worked objects. A particular form of murrine glasswork is millefiori, in which many murrine with a flower-like or star-shaped cross-section are included in a blown glass piece.
Peranakan cut beads are faceted glass beads used by the Peranakan women to make Peranakan beaded slippers and other Peranakan artifacts like wedding veils, handbags, belts, tapestries and pouches.
Wire wrapping is one of the oldest techniques for making handmade jewelry. This technique is done with jewelry wire and findings similar to wire to make components. Wire components are then connected to one another using mechanical techniques with no soldering or heating of the wire. Frequently, in this approach, a wire is bent into a loop or other decorative shape and then the wire is wrapped around itself to finish the wire component. This makes the loop or decorative shape permanent. The technique of wrapping wire around itself gives this craft its name of wire wrapping.
Sandblasting, sometimes known as abrasive blasting, is the operation of forcibly propelling a stream of abrasive material against a surface under high pressure to smooth a rough surface, roughen a smooth surface, shape a surface or remove surface contaminants. A pressurised fluid, typically compressed air, or a centrifugal wheel is used to propel the blasting material. The first abrasive blasting process was patented by Benjamin Chew Tilghman on 18 October 1870.
A thread is a long strand of material, often composed of several filaments or fibres, used for joining, creating or decorating textiles. Ancient Egyptians were known for creating thread using plant fibers, wool and hair. Today, thread can also be made of many different materials including but not limited to cotton, wool, flax, nylon, silk, polyester etc. There are also metal threads, which can be made of fine wire.
Thermoplastic road marking paint, also called hot melt marking paint, is a kind of powder paint. When applied as road surface markings, a hot melt kettle is used to heat it to 200 °C (392 °F) to melt the powder, after which it is sprayed on the road surface. After cooling, the paint forms a thick polymer layer, which is wear-resistant, bright, and reflective. In recent years, practical applications tests have proved that the marking lines lack surface roughness and can easily cause wheel slip, resulting in a traffic accident in snow and rainy weather. Therefore, some countries once restricted the use of this paint or demand the use of anti-skid particles. In order to increase the antiskid performance of the line, thermoplastic paint has added reflective glass beads and other coarse fillers. Thermoplastic can be used very effectively for large anti-skid areas on roads and pedestrian walkways by adding glass beads. It can be produced in any colour and is suitable for car parks, factory walkways, and many other areas. It hardens quickly and can be driven over after just a few minutes.