Bead embroidery

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A pair of denim jeans embroidered with freshwater pearls and seed beads. Bead embroidery jeans.jpg
A pair of denim jeans embroidered with freshwater pearls and seed beads.

Bead embroidery is a type of beadwork that uses a needle and thread to stitch beads to a surface of fabric, suede, or leather.

Contents

Bead embroidery is an embellishment that does not form an essential part of a textile's structure. In this respect, bead embroidery differs from bead weaving, bead crochet, and bead knitting. Woven, knitted, and crocheted beads may be attached during fabric production, whereas embroidered beads are always added upon finished fabric.

Bead embroidery during construction: a brooch in pearl and lead crystal on ultrasuede, attached to a scroll frame. Bead embroidery scroll frame.jpg
Bead embroidery during construction: a brooch in pearl and lead crystal on ultrasuede, attached to a scroll frame.

Traditionally, bead embroidery has been used on clothing and decorative textiles. It may be used in jewelry with the addition of structural supports such as bracelet bands. Other clothing accessories such as belt buckles and handbags can be embroidered with beads, and household items such as pillows or boxes may be embellished with bead embroidery. When used with hard surfaces, bead patterns are measured and planned with seam allowances and attached after embroidery by means of glue or epoxy.

History

Reconstruction of a Maya belt made from jade beads sewn onto cloth, Calakmul, 660-750 AD Ceremonial Belt with Jade Beads and Plaques sewn on linen - Maya Museum Campeche.jpg
Reconstruction of a Maya belt made from jade beads sewn onto cloth, Calakmul, 660-750 AD

Long before the last major ice age, people were making beads from seashells, seeds, and any other materials they could find. Dating to 2500 BC, the tombs of Ur in Iraq contain beadwork made from Lapis Lazuli beads. The beads were sewn into the base. When archeologists excavated Neolithic burial mounds in Europe they found drawings of crude bone needles. Drawings and paintings from Egypt also show richly embroidered clothes. Bead embroidery is represented in European history dating back to the Middle Ages, with artwork showing bead embroidered hats and clothing. [1]

Indigenous peoples throughout North America have a rich historical relationship with beadwork. With the arrival of Europeans, seed beads began to be used and traded however pre-contact traditionally styled beadwork was woven using items which included shells, seeds, and porcupine quills. With the violence of Europeans colonizing America, beading became a way for Native Americans to hold on to their cultural identity. Native Americans used multiple techniques and still continue the tradition today. Peyote stitch was taught to Native Americans by Europeans. Loom beading was the last technique to be invented. Within the Americas, bead embroidery was first used by the Native Americans of the Great Lakes region. Native American bead embroidery is also known as applique beadwork. [2]

Technique

Three basic methods may be used to embroider with beads: individual beads may be sewn directly onto fabric, or several beads may be run through a needle before running through the backing, or else a line of threaded beads may be laid upon a fabric and secured with couching stitches. [3] Many people use a needle and thread to stitch beads to the fabric, usually a fine needle with a small eye to facilitate easier passage through the small holes in many seed beads, a second technique uses a fine hook to chain stitch thread to the fabric, in Europe this technique is known as Tambour [4] or Luneville [5] embroidery, and is commonly used to bead haute couture garments. In India the work is called Zari or Moochi Aari, [6] or just Aari [7] and is used on garments and furnishings. A hallmark of Tambour or Luneville embroidery is that the beads are attached on the underside of the fabric and the chain is formed on the top side of the fabric. Whereas in Zari and Aari work the beads are attached to the top side of the fabric where the chain stitch is formed. In Zari/Aari work the thread is hooked through each bead as the stitches are formed. The Tambour/Aari beading methods appear more difficult to master for those more used to working with a threaded needle but do have an advantage in speed over stitching beads with a needle, increased speed is possible as the thread is used from the spool so is continuous, there is no need to fasten of, cut new thread, thread the needle, and fasten on, secondly With Tambour/Luneville work the beads are strung direct on the thread before stitching begins, so no time is lost placing each bead on the needle. There are multiple YouTube videos examples demonstrating Arri/Zari stitching, and numerous books which instruct on Tambour or Luneville work. [8] Most beading onto fabric is worked with the fabric stretched tightly over a frame, [9] this holds the fabric tight and provides a flat surface to work the embroidery on, beads can add significant weight so some support is important. Using a frame means the embroiderer has both hands free for working. In Tambour or Luneville work the frame is often supported between two tables, above a table or on trestle supports and used when seated on a chair. In Aari or Zari work the frame is often closer to the ground, and used while seated on the ground. [6] Lesage is acclaimed in the fashion world for the beaded embroideries worked for many well known fashion designers. [10]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Beadwork</span> Decoration technique

Beadwork is the art or craft of attaching beads to one another by stringing them onto a thread or thin wire with a sewing or beading needle or sewing them to cloth. Beads are produced in a diverse range of materials, shapes, and sizes, and vary by the kind of art produced. Most often, beadwork is a form of personal adornment, but it also commonly makes up other artworks.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bead weaving</span>

Bead weaving is a set of techniques for weaving sheets and objects of seed beads. Threads are strung through and/or around the beads to hold them together. It can be done either on a loom or using one of a number of off-loom stitches.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Crochet</span> Technique of creating lace or fabric from thread using a hook

Crochet is a process of creating textiles by using a crochet hook to interlock loops of yarn, thread, or strands of other materials. The name is derived from the French term crochet, meaning 'hook'. Hooks can be made from a variety of materials, such as metal, wood, bamboo, bone or plastic. The key difference between crochet and knitting, beyond the implements used for their production, is that each stitch in crochet is completed before the next one is begun, while knitting keeps many stitches open at a time. Some variant forms of crochet, such as Tunisian crochet and broomstick lace, do keep multiple crochet stitches open at a time.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery</span> Art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn

Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats, overlays, blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, scarfs, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available in a wide variety of thread or yarn colour. It is often used to personalize gifts or clothing items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hardanger embroidery</span> Type of whitework embroidery from Norway

Hardanger embroidery or "Hardangersøm" is a form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave linen or cloth, using counted thread and drawn thread work techniques. It is sometimes called whitework embroidery.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drawn thread work</span> Creative textile work

Drawn thread work is one of the earliest forms of open work embroidery, and has been worked throughout Europe. Originally it was often used for ecclesiastical items and to ornament shrouds. It is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped with whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.

Needlepoint is a type of canvas work, a form of embroidery in which yarn is stitched through a stiff open weave canvas. Traditionally needlepoint designs completely cover the canvas. Although needlepoint may be worked in a variety of stitches, many needlepoint designs use only a simple tent stitch and rely upon color changes in the yarn to construct the pattern. Needlepoint is the oldest form of canvas work.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chain stitch</span> Type of embroidery stitch

Chain stitch is a sewing and embroidery technique in which a series of looped stitches form a chain-like pattern. Chain stitch is an ancient craft – examples of surviving Chinese chain stitch embroidery worked in silk thread have been dated to the Warring States period. Handmade chain stitch embroidery does not require that the needle pass through more than one layer of fabric. For this reason the stitch is an effective surface embellishment near seams on finished fabric. Because chain stitches can form flowing, curved lines, they are used in many surface embroidery styles that mimic "drawing" in thread.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Machine embroidery</span> Technique of embroidering with a sewing machine or purpose-made embroidering machine

Machine embroidery is an embroidery process whereby a sewing machine or embroidery machine is used to create patterns on textiles. It is used commercially in product branding, corporate advertising, and uniform adornment. It is also used in the fashion industry to decorate garments and apparel. Machine embroidery is used by hobbyists and crafters to decorate gifts, clothing, and home decor. Examples include designs on quilts, pillows, and wall hangings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stumpwork</span> Embroidery technique

Stumpwork or raised work is a style of embroidery in which the stitched figures are raised from the surface of the work to form a 3-dimensional effect.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tambour lace</span> Type of handmade lace

Tambour lace refers to a family of lace made by stretching a fine net over a frame and creating a chain stitch, known as tambour, using a fine, pointed hook to reach through the net and draw the working thread through.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chikan (embroidery)</span> Traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India

Chikankari is a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India. Translated, the word means embroidery, and it is one of Lucknow's best known textile decoration styles. The main market in Lucknow for Chikankari based products is Chowk. Production is mainly based in Lucknow and in the adjoining districts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Peyote stitch</span>

The peyote stitch, also known as the gourd stitch, is an off-loom bead weaving technique. Peyote stitch may be worked with either an even or an odd number of beads per row. Both even and odd count peyote pieces can be woven as flat strips, in a flat round shape, or as a tube. Tubular peyote is used to make pouches or to decorate objects such as bottles or fan handles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Embroidery of India</span> Any of the various styles of embroidery indigenous to India

Embroidery in India includes dozens of embroidery styles that vary by region and clothing styles. Designs in Indian embroidery are formed on the basis of the texture and the design of the fabric and the stitch. The dot and the alternate dot, the circle, the square, the triangle, and permutations and combinations of these constitute the design.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Brick stitch</span>

Brick Stitch, also known as the Cheyenne Stitch or Comanche Stitch, is a bead weaving stitch in which individual beads are stacked horizontally in the same pattern as bricks are stacked in a wall.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bead crochet</span>

Bead crochet is a crochet technique that incorporates beads into a crochet fabric. The technique is used to produce decorative effects in women's fashion accessories. The word "crochet" is derived from the French "croche" or "croc" meaning "to hook". Published descriptions of bead crochet date from around 1824 although it was probably common before then. At one time, bead crochet was thought by some people to be appropriate only for rich people.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">English embroidery</span> Embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad

English embroidery includes embroidery worked in England or by English people abroad from Anglo-Saxon times to the present day. The oldest surviving English embroideries include items from the early 10th century preserved in Durham Cathedral and the 11th century Bayeux Tapestry, if it was worked in England. The professional workshops of Medieval England created rich embroidery in metal thread and silk for ecclesiastical and secular uses. This style was called Opus Anglicanum or "English work", and was famous throughout Europe.

Right-angle weave stitch, also known as RAW, is an off-loom bead weaving technique. Beads are stitched together with thread only making right angle turns, hence the name. The result is an almost fabric like piece of beadwork. Right-angle weave can be woven with either one needle or two. With single needle right-angle weave, the thread path moves in a figure-eight pattern. For double needle right-angle weave, the threads cross each other along the center bead of each stitch as they head in opposite directions. RAW can be formed into flat pieces, tubes, or 3 dimensional figures. There are also variations on the basic stitch like cubic right angle weave, or CRAW. Seed beads, fire polished beads and crystal beads are common choices in pieces using right-angle weave. Variations of the right-angle weave also include PRAW. CRAW is usually worked in sets of four, but in PRAW, sets can be expanded to over five.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kutch Embroidery</span> Handicraft and textile art tradition of Kutch, Gujarat, India

The Kutch Embroidery is a handicraft and textile signature art tradition of the tribal community of Kutch District in Gujarat, India. This embroidery with its rich designs has made a notable contribution to the Indian embroidery traditions. The embroidery, practiced normally by women is generally done on fabrics of cotton, in the form of a net using cotton or silk threads. In certain patterns, it is also crafted over silk and satin. The types of stitches adopted are “square chain, double buttonhole, pattern darning, running stitch, satin and straight stitches”. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the geometrically shaped designs. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand embroidered ethnic styles have evolved. These six styles: Suf, khaarek, paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hand embroidery machine</span>

The hand embroidery machine is a manually operated embroidery machine. It was widely used in the Swiss embroidery industry during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. It was also used in the lace industry near Plauen, Germany, and it played a role in the development of the embroidery industry centered in Hudson County, New Jersey during the early 20th century.

References

  1. Gunnsdottir, HL Sine. "Historical Embellishments Using Bead Embroidery" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 2014-10-31.
  2. "Beadwork Origins: Native American Beadwork". Interweave. 2012-02-05. Retrieved 2020-10-23.
  3. John Gillow and Bryan Sentance (1999). World Textiles: A Visual Guide to Traditional Techniques. Thames & Hudson. p. 216.
  4. Bradford, Isabella; Scott, Susan Holloway (2013-05-23). "Two Nerdy History Girls: Tambour Work Embroidery, 1730-1840". Twonerdyhistorygirls.blogspot.co.nz. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  5. "Sampling :: Crochet de Lunéville - Barefoot Shepherdess". Barefootshepherdess.typepad.com. 2012-05-31. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  6. 1 2 "Kasam Sangar". .warwick.ac.uk. 2013-07-22. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  7. Anita (2011-10-13). "artisticfingers: Aari embroidery part 1 - needles and threads". Artisticfingers.blogspot.co.nz. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  8. Mary Corbet (2013-10-24). "Tambour Embroidery: Three Instructional Books". Needlenthread.com. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  9. Sarah Cownley (2015-05-27). "Back in France!". Glimpse Creations. Retrieved 2017-01-15.
  10. Francesca Galassini (2012-05-17). "Lesage". Vogue.it. Retrieved 2017-01-15.