Shalimar (perfume)

Last updated

Shalimar
Perfume Shalimar.jpg
Fragrance by Guerlain
CategoryOriental
Designed forWomen
Top notes
  • Bergamot
Heart notes
  • Iris
  • Jasmine
  • Rose
Base notes
  • Vanilla
  • Tonka Beans
Released1925;99 years ago (1925)
Label Guerlain
Perfumer(s) Jacques Guerlain
Concentration Eau de Parfum
Flanker(s)
    • Shalimar Ode à la Vanille
    • Shalimar Parfum Initial
    • Shalimar Souffle de Parfum
    • Shalimar Souffle Intense
    • Shalimar Souffle de Lumière
    • Shalimar Philtre de Parfum
    • Shalimar Millésime Vanilla Planifolia
    • Shalimar Millésime Tonka

Shalimar is a perfume originally created by Jacques Guerlain in 1921 for French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain. In production continuously since 1925, Shalimar is currently a flagship product for Guerlain. [1]

Contents

History

Shalimar was created by perfumer Jacques Guerlain in 1921, but after another company claimed to already have a fragrance by the same name, Guerlain was forced to rename the fragrance "No. 90" until a legal dispute over the name was settled. [2] Shalimar was re-released in 1925 at the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts. [2]

Jacques Guerlain was inspired by Mumtaz Mahal, [3] the wife of Shah Jahan, Mughal emperor of India, [4] and for whom the Taj Mahal in Agra and the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore were built. [5] The harmony of Shalimar was created when Jacques Guerlain poured a bottle of ethylvanillin into a bottle of Jicky, a fragrance created by Guerlain in 1889. [1]

Raymond Guerlain designed the bottle for Shalimar, which was modeled after the basins of eastern gardens and Mongolian stupa art. Shalimar's blue, fan-shaped bottle topper was inspired by a piece of silverware owned by the Guerlain family. The bottle was manufactured by Baccarat Crystal and received the Decorative Arts Exhibition Award in 1925. [1] [6]

During the 1920s, Shalimar was popular with flappers which helped give it a "bad girl" reputation. [7]

In 1985, Shalimar was repackaged and presented encased in a Lucite box to commemorate the 60th anniversary of its original launch. [5] In 2004, Guerlain issued Shalimar Light by perfumer Mathilde Laurent. However, Shalimar Light was taken off the market and replaced by Eau de Shalimar in 2008. [8]

Shalimar is preserved in its original 1925 formulation in the archives of the Osmothèque, donated by Jean-Paul Guerlain. [9] As of 2017, Shalimar was Guerlain's second best selling fragrance, behind La Petite Robe Noire, with approximately 108 bottles being sold every hour. [1]

Scent

The fragrance contains notes of bergamot, lemon, iris, jasmine, rose, patchouli, vetiver, opopanax, tonka bean, frankincense, sandalwood, musk, civet, ambergris, leather, and vanilla. It is considered to be an Oriental perfume (see Fragrance Wheel). [10]

Marketing

Illustrator Lyse Darcy created many illustrated ads for Guerlain products, including Shalimar, from the 1930s through the 1950s. [11] Photographs taken by Helmut Newton were used in a print campaign for Shalimar in 1997. [12]

In 2013, Guerlain produced an advertisement titled "The Legend of Shalimar," featuring Natalia Vodianova. [13] The advertisement was directed by Bruno Aveillan and featured music by Hans Zimmer that had been originally composed for The Da Vinci Code . [14]

Music

In his 1961 song about Ireland, "Forty Shades of Green", Johnny Cash wrote the line "where the breeze is sweet as Shalimar and there's forty shades of green". [15]

In 1963, Eddie Barclay released an album called "Parfums", with one of the songs being named after Shalimar ("Shalimar de Guerlain").

In the musical La Cage Aux Folles, Shalimar is mentioned in the song "A Little More Mascara". [16]

In the song "Madame George" from his 1968 album Astral Weeks , Van Morrison sings, "of sweet perfume...like Shalimar."

The lyrics of the song "On a Little Street in Singapore", contains the line "My sails tonight are filled with perfume of Shalimar".

Cheryl Bentyne's lyric for The Manhattan Transfer's 2018 cover of Grace Kelly's "Blues for Harry Bosch" includes two mentions of Shalimar, both in reference to the lyric's unnamed femme fatale, described initially as "her poison" and later, simply "the venom". [17] [18]

Film and television

In the film California Split, the character of Helen Brown claims to be wearing Shalimar.

In the episode "In Camelot" of The Sopranos, Junior Soprano mentions sending bottles of Shalimar to Fran. [19]

In the 1989 Gene Wilder and Richard Pryor movie "See No Evil, Hear No Evil", Richard Pryor's blind character identifies the villainess played by Joan Severance by the smell of Shalimar. [20]

In the 1971 movie The Mephisto Waltz, Shalimar is the perfume favored by Jacqueline Bisset's character, Paula. [21]

Shalimar is mentioned during an episode of The Love Boat (Season 1, Episode 3).

In the 1981 movie The Four Seasons, Shalimar is given as a gift. [22]

Shalimar is mentioned during an episode of NCIS (Season 11, Episode 12). [23]

In the Mad Men episode "The Long Weekend", Joan Holloway's roommate notices that Joan is wearing Shalimar. [24]

In the 1988 movie Working Girl , Katharine asks Tess to get her bottle of Shalimar. [25]

In an episode of Orange Is the New Black (S1:E6 "WAC Pack"), Nicky describes Piper as smelling of Shalimar after she receives a hug from her mother during visitation. [26]

In season 2, episode 12 of The Nanny , Fran (Fran Drescher) remembers her aunt Mima smelling of stuffed cabbage and Shalimar under her mink coat. A season later, in season 3, episode 26, Mr. Sheffield (Charles Shaughnessy) is leaving the house to fly to Paris. When Fran tells him "Shalimar", he corrects her by saying it's "Au revoir", thinking she was telling him goodbye and not knowing she was actually asking him to buy Guerlain's Shalimar duty-free.

In season 3 episode 10 of Love , Mickey (Gillian Jacobs) tells her boyfriend Gus (Paul Rust) that his childhood home smells like "laundry detergent, ham, and Shalimar."

In season 1 episode 19 of " Person of Interest ," villain Elias remembers his mother wearing Shalimar perfume.

In season 5 episode 11 of American Horror Story , while pouring herself a drink, the Countess realizes that Ramona Royale has entered her suite behind her back. Without turning around the Countess says, "It’s not the Shalimar that gives you away - it’s your blood." [27]

Literature

In the novel "L'Indic", by Roger Borniche the aristocrat Sylvia de Neyrac utilizes Shalimar to fascinate the policeman Roger Borniche.

In the novel "War Cry, by Wilbur Smith (with David Churchill), Saffron is caught attempting to descend the Cresta Run in St. Moritz (for male skiers only) due to her forgetting that she had used the perfume Shalimar following her morning shower. Reminded of the smell of the perfume by Herr Zuber, the equipment shop manager, she washes the perfume off prior to attempting the descent.

In the novel Angel of Baker Street, by Catherine Bell, Olivia always pictures her mother in her mind whenever she caught a hint of the perfume. Olivia is also given a bottle of Shalimar as a gift by Dominique, who had protected her during Olivia's stay in Paris.

In 1991, Louise Bourgeois created Cell II, a work of art which featured multiple empty and nearly-empty bottles of Shalimar on top of a mirrored table and next to a sculpture of wringing hands. [28]

In the 1991 novel Wise Children by Angela Carter, Nora Chance wears Shalimar. This is the only way other characters can distinguish her from her twin sister Dora, who wears Mitsouko.

In the 2018 novel Greeks Bearing Gifts by Philip Kerr, the anti-hero, Bernie Gunther (alias Christof Ganz) comments upon Elli Panatoniou's Shalimar perfume as having the effect of "making a woman smell like a woman and making a man want to behave like a rampaging gorilla".

In the 2018 novel Lethal White by Robert Galbraith, the private detective, Cormoran Strike about his ex girlfriend, Charlotte "...could smell what he knew to be Shalimar on her skin. She had worn it since she was nineteen and he had sometimes bought it for her."

Mentioned in two Fannie Flagg novels, in the plot of one (Welcome to the World, Baby Girl) of which it is a clue to the mystery.

Shalimar is part of 4 pianopieces Dutch composer Carolien Devilee wrote on perfumes of Guerlain (4 Fragances de Guerlain pour Piano: l'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Shalimar, Chamade). 'Fragances' as noun for a new music form in which the music is based on a specific scent/fragrance.

Related Research Articles

Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent. Perfumes can be defined as substances that emit and diffuse a pleasant and fragrant odor. They consist of manmade mixtures of aromatic chemicals and essential oils. The 1939 Nobel Laureate for Chemistry, Leopold Ružička stated in 1945 that "right from the earliest days of scientific chemistry up to the present time, perfumes have substantially contributed to the development of organic chemistry as regards methods, systematic classification, and theory."

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Guerlain</span> French perfume house

Guerlain is a French perfume, cosmetics, and skincare house which is among the oldest in the world. Many traditional Guerlain fragrances are characterized by a common olfactory accord known as the "Guerlinade".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Britney Spears products</span> Products endorsed by Britney Spears

American singer Britney Spears has developed and endorsed a number of products; these have included books, video releases, video games, dolls, clothing, and perfumes. In 2000, Spears released a limited edition of sunglasses titled Shades of Britney. In 2001, she signed a deal with shoe company Skechers, and a $7–8 million promotional deal with Pepsi, their biggest entertainment deal at the time. Aside from numerous commercials with the latter during that year, she also appeared in a 2004 Pepsi television commercial in the theme of "Gladiators" with singers Beyoncé, Pink, and Enrique Iglesias. On June 19, 2002, she released her first multi-platform video game, Britney's Dance Beat, which received positive reviews. In March 2009, Spears was announced as the new face of clothing brand Candie's. Dari Marder, chief marketing officer for the brand, explained why they choose the singer, saying, "everybody loves a comeback and nobody's doing it better than Britney. She's just poised for even greater success." In 2010, Spears designed a limited edition line for the brand, which was released in stores in July. In 2011, she teamed up with Sony, Make Up For Ever, and Plenty of Fish to release her music video for "Hold It Against Me", earning her $500,000 for the product placement. Spears also teamed up with Hasbro in 2012 to release an exclusive version of Twister Dance, which includes a remix of "Till the World Ends". The singer was also featured on a commercial, which was directed by Ray Kay, to promote the game. Spears was also featured on the commercial of "Twister Rave" and the game included a Twister remix of "Circus". In March 2018, it was revealed that Spears would be the face of Kenzo, a contemporary French luxury clothing house.

Chypre is the name of a family of perfumes that are characterised by an accord composed of citrus top notes, a middle centered on cistus labdanum, and a mossy-animalic set of basenotes derived from oakmoss. Chypre perfumes fall into numerous classes according to their modifier notes, which include but are not limited to leather, florals, fruits, and amber.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Olivia Giacobetti</span> French perfumer

Olivia Giacobetti is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glow by JLo</span> 1998 perfume endorsed by Jennifer Lopez

Glow by JLo is a women's fragrance endorsed by American entertainer Jennifer Lopez, and released through Cotyorporated. It was conceived as far back as 1998 when Lopez announced a lifestyle line that would include a fragrance. Contradictory to assumptions that it would be unsuccessful, it performed extremely well, becoming America's top-selling fragrance. Glow Industries filed a lawsuit against Lopez and Coty to not use the term "Glow", however, a judge denied their request. Along with products from Lopez's fashion and lifestyle line, it brought in over $300 million by 2004. Subsequently, Glow became a successful woman's fragrance line.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Roja Dove</span>

Roja Dove is a British perfumer whose fragrances are sold at department stores worldwide. Born and raised in Sussex, South East England, his career in perfumery began in 1981 when he joined the French perfume house Guerlain, working there for 20 years before leaving to set up his own companies RDPR and then Roja Parfums.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Joy (perfume)</span>

Joy is a perfume created for Parisian couturier Jean Patou by perfumer Henri Alméras in 1929. It is considered to be one of the greatest fragrances created and is a landmark example of the floral genre in perfumery. It is no longer produced.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Henri Alméras</span>

Henri Alméras was a French perfumer, author, and painter.

Basenotes is a United Kingdom-based online fragrance resource which includes a fragrance database, message boards and editorial. The site was launched in August 2000 by Grant Osborne as an information site for men's fragrance and grooming. In 2004, the site expanded to include feminine fragrances.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethylvanillin</span> Chemical compound

Ethylvanillin is the organic compound with the formula (C2H5O)(HO)C6H3CHO. This colorless solid consists of a benzene ring with hydroxyl, ethoxy, and formyl groups on the 4, 3, and 1 positions, respectively. It is a homologue of vanillin, differing on the 3 position.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mitsouko</span> Perfume

Mitsouko is a perfume by French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain, created by Jacques Guerlain and first introduced in 1919. Its name is derived from the French transliteration of a Japanese female personal name Mitsuko. It is a fruity chypre whose top notes include bergamot, its middle notes peach, rose, iris, clove, and jasmine, and its base notes vetiver, oakmoss, and labdanum.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Osmothèque</span>

The Osmothèque is the world's largest scent archive, a leading international research institution tracing the history of perfumery, based in Versailles with conference centers in New York City and Paris. Founded in 1990 by Jean Kerléo and other senior perfumers including Jean-Claude Ellena and Guy Robert, the Osmothèque is internationally responsible for the authentication, registration, preservation, documentation and reproduction of thousands of perfumes gathered from the past two millennia, archived at the Osmothèque repository and consultable by the public.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jacques Guerlain</span> French perfumer (1874–1963)

Jacques Edouard Guerlain was a French perfumer, the third and most famous of the Guerlain family. One of the most prolific and influential perfumers of the 20th century, over eighty of Guerlain's perfumes remain known, though certain estimates suggest he composed some four hundred. Among his greatest fragrances are L’Heure Bleue (1912), Mitsouko (1919) and Shalimar (1925). Though his work earned him universal renown, a considerable fortune and honours such as that of Chevalier of the Legion of Honour, Guerlain avoided public attention, never once granting an interview. As a result, relatively little is known of his creative process or personal life.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud is a French perfumer formerly with the Swiss fragrance and flavor company Firmenich, who currently works for Louis Vuitton of the LVMH Luxury Group.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jicky</span> Guerlain perfume

Jicky is a perfume originally created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889 for French perfume and cosmetics house Guerlain. Introduced in 1889, it is the oldest continuously-produced perfume in the world.

Mathilde Laurent is a French perfumer. After studying perfumery at ISIPCA in Versailles, Laurent began her career as an apprentice to Jean-Paul Guerlain. She went on to work at Guerlain for 11 years. Since 2006, she has been the in-house perfumer for Cartier, creating perfumes like Baiser Volé.

Marie Ondine Guerlain is a French artist, designer, nutrition health coach and proprietor of Ondine Cuisine. She is a sixth-generation member of the Guerlain perfume and cosmetics dynasty.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 Pellen, Guénola (12 January 2017). "Iconic: Shalimar, the Perfume of the Roaring Twenties". France-Amérique. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
  2. 1 2 "Shalimar de Guerlain: Discover This Vintage Fragrance". Vintage Industrial Style. 19 April 2017. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
  3. "Shalimar". Fragrantica. Retrieved 23 November 2022.
  4. Zeidan, Adam (24 June 2019). "Mumtaz Mahal". Encyclopedia Britannica. Retrieved 28 July 2019.
  5. 1 2 "The Encyclopaedia of Perfume". Perfume Intelligence. Retrieved 26 February 2011.
  6. Godin, Virginie (25 September 2014). "Getting to Know the Oldest Fragrances on the Market". Osmoz. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  7. Harrison, Marlen Elliot; Vosnaki, Elena; Biebel, John; Borisov, Sergey; Jähn, Stefanie (6 January 2018). "Best in Show: Shalimar by Guerlain (2017)". Fragrantica. Retrieved 8 January 2018.
  8. Burr, Chandler (13 March 2008). "Scent Notes | Eau de Shalimar by Guerlain". The New York Times. Retrieved 26 February 2011.
  9. "Conservatoire international des parfums". Osmothèque (in French). Retrieved 18 June 2013.
  10. "Shalimar by Guerlain (1925) - Basenotes Fragrance Directory". Base Notes. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  11. Mercedes (9 January 2013). "Illustrated highlights of beauty ads from Guerlain". El Fashionista. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  12. "New Campaigns: Eastern". AdWeek. 22 September 1997. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  13. Young, Katy (10 September 2013). "Natalia Vodianova stars in Guerlain's Legend of Shalimar". The Telegraph. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  14. Thielman, Sam (28 August 2013). "Ad of the Day: Guerlain Goes to the Ends of the Earth in the Year's Most Lavish Spot". AdWeek. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  15. The Little Black Songbook: Johnny Cash. Wise Publications. 2012. p. 44.
  16. Kuchwara, Michael (18 April 2010). "A riotous 'La Cage aux Folles' returns to B'way". The San Diego Union-Tribune. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  17. ""Blues For Harry Bosch" Lyrics". LetsSingIt. Retrieved 8 September 2020.
  18. "CD booklet for The Junction". Mediafire. 8 September 2020. Retrieved 8 September 2020.
  19. Zoromski, Brian (18 May 2012). "Taking Out The Sopranos". IGN. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  20. Hinson, Hal (13 May 1989). "'See No Evil, Hear No Evil" (R)". The Washington Post. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  21. "The Mephisto Waltz: An underrated doozy of a horror film". Fantasy Literature. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  22. Maslin, Janet (22 May 1981). "'Four Seasons,' A Hymn to Ordinariness". The New York Times. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  23. Stempel, Kim (7 January 2014). "'NCIS' Recap: Gibbs and the Case of the Ex". Buddy TV. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  24. "Mad Men S01E10 (Long Weekend)". Born Unicorn. 16 January 2015. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  25. Wright, Andy (7 March 2016). "The Secrets of Set Decoration from 'Working Girl'". Atlas Obscura. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  26. "Orange is the New Black S01E06 (WAC Pack)". Born Unicorn. 4 March 2016. Retrieved 9 January 2018.
  27. AmericanHorrorStory [@AHSFX] (7 January 2016). ""It's not the Shalimar that gives you away - it's your blood." #AHSHotel" (Tweet). Retrieved 26 March 2018 via Twitter.
  28. "An Empty Bottle of Shalimar: The Art of Louise Bourgeois". Mad Perfumista. 10 April 2012. Retrieved 9 January 2018.