Women's combined at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad | |||||||||||||
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Venue | Aomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo | ||||||||||||
Dates | 4 August 2021 (qualification) 6 August 2021 (final) | ||||||||||||
Competitors | 20 from 15 nations | ||||||||||||
Medalists | |||||||||||||
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Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics | ||
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List of sport climbers Qualification | ||
Combined | men | women |
The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. [1] 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.
In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals. [2]
In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.
In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.
In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.
Speed climbling wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.
The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States. [3] [4]
The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan. [5]
Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.
Speed records | ||||
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World record | Iuliia Kaplina (RUS) | 6.964 | Moscow, Russia | 21 November 2020 |
Olympic record | Not established | – | – | – |
The following records were established during the competition:
Date | Round | Climber | Nation | Time | Record |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
August 4 | Speed Qualification | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.97 [6] | OR |
August 6 | Speed Final | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.84 [7] | WR |
All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)
Date [8] | Time | Round |
---|---|---|
Wednesday, 4 August 2021 | 17:00 | Speed Qualification |
18:00 | Bouldering Qualification | |
21:10 | Lead Qualification | |
Friday, 6 August 2021 | 17:30 | Speed Final |
18:30 | Bouldering Final | |
21:10 | Lead Final |
The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.
Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed [9] | Bouldering [10] | Lead [11] | Total [12] | Notes | |||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
A | B | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | Results | CP | HR | TFT | CP | |||||
1 | Janja Garnbret | Slovenia | 9.44 | 14 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | T1z1 | 4T4z 4 4 | 1 | 30 | 4 | 56.00 | Q | ||
2 | Seo Chae-hyun | South Korea | 10.01 | 17 | T3z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 5 5 | 5 | 40+ | 1 | 85.00 | Q | ||
3 | Miho Nonaka | Japan | 7.55 | 4 | T2z1 | z1 | z1 | – | 1T3z 2 3 | 8 | 30+ | 3 | 96.00 | Q | ||
4 | Akiyo Noguchi | Japan | 8.23 | 9 | T2z1 | z1 | T2z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 5 4 | 3 | 27+ | 6 | 162.00 | Q | ||
5 | Brooke Raboutou | United States | 8.67 | 12 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | T1z1 | 3T4z 4 4 | 2 | 26+ | 3:40 | 8 | 192.00 | Q | |
6 | Jessica Pilz | Austria | 8.51 | 11 | T3z1 | z3 | z1 | – | 1T3z 3 5 | 9 | 33+ | 2 | 198.00 | Q | ||
7 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 6.97 OR | 1 | – | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 20 | 12 | 19 | 380.00 | Q | ||
8 | Anouck Jaubert | France | 7.12 | 2 | T4z1 | – | – | – | 1T1z 4 1 | 13 | 16+ | 2:14 | 15 | 390.00 | Q | |
9 | Viktoria Meshkova | ROC | 9.54 | 15 | T6z1 | T2z2 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 8 5 | 6 | 29+ | 5 | 450.00 | |||
10 | Shauna Coxsey | Great Britain | 9.65 | 16 | T2z1 | T1z1 | z1 | z1 | 2T4z 3 4 | 4 | 21+ | 2:23 | 13 | 832.00 | ||
11 | Kyra Condie | United States | 8.08 | 7 | T4z1 | – | z1 | z3 | 1T3z 4 5 | 11 | 22+ | 11 | 847.00 | |||
12 | Song Yiling | China | 7.46 | 3 | z5 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 5 | 19 | 13+ | 18 | 1026.00 | |||
13 | Julia Chanourdie | France | 8.17 | 8 | z1 | z7 | z1 | – | 0T3z 0 9 | 15 | 25+ | 9 | 1080.00 | |||
14 | Alannah Yip | Canada | 7.99 | 6 | z1 | – | z1 | – | 0T2z 0 2 | 16 | 21+ | 2:14 | 12 | 1152.00 | ||
15 | Laura Rogora | Italy | 10.50 | 19 | z1 | z2 | T1z1 | z1 | 1T4z 1 5 | 7 | 25 | 10 | 1330.00 | |||
16 | Petra Klingler | Switzerland | 8.42 | 10 | T3z1 | z3 | z4 | – | 1T3z 3 8 | 10 | 16+ | 1:49 | 14 | 1400.00 | ||
17 | Iuliia Kaplina | ROC | 7.65 | 5 | z2 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 18 | 14+ | 17 | 1530.00 | |||
18 | Mia Krampl | Slovenia | 10.43 | 18 | z1 | z1 | z1 | z2 | 0T4z 0 5 | 14 | 26+ | 3:16 | 7 | 1764.00 | ||
19 | Oceana Mackenzie | Australia | 8.83 | 13 | T3z1 | – | z1 | – | 1T2z 3 2 | 12 | 15+ | 16 | 2496.00 | |||
20 | Erin Sterkenburg | South Africa | 11.10 | 20 | z1 | – | – | – | 0T1z 0 1 | 17 | 7+ | 20 | 6800.00 |
Rank | Climber | Nation | Speed [13] | Bouldering [14] | Lead [15] | Total [16] | |||||||||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Quarterfinals | Semifinals | Finals | CP | 1 | 2 | 3 | Results | CP | HR | CP | |||||||
R | T | R | T | R | T | ||||||||||||
Janja Garnbret | Slovenia | 3 | 8.49 | 6 | 8.67 | 10 | 7.81 | 5 | T4z1 | T1z1 | z1 | 2T3z 5 3 | 1 | 37+ | 1 | 5 | |
Miho Nonaka | Japan | 4 | 8.19 | 8 | 7.76 | 11 | 7.99 | 3 | – | z4 | z1 | 0T2z 0 5 | 3 | 21 | 5 | 45 | |
Akiyo Noguchi | Japan | 2 | 8.55 | 7 | Fall | 11 | 8.42 | 4 | z5 | z2 | – | 0T2z 0 7 | 4 | 29+ | 4 | 64 | |
4 | Aleksandra Mirosław | Poland | 1 | 7.49 | 7 | 7.03 | 12 | 6.84 WR | 1 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 9+ | 8 | 64 |
5 | Brooke Raboutou | United States | 4 | Fall | 6 | 8.77 | 9 | 9.06 | 7 | z5 | z3 | z2 | 0T3z 0 10 | 2 | 20+ | 6 | 84 |
6 | Anouck Jaubert | France | 3 | 7.40 | 8 | 7.51 | 12 | 8.84 | 2 | z2 | – | – | 0T1z 0 2 | 6 | 13+ | 7 | 84 |
7 | Jessica Pilz | Austria | 2 | 8.89 | 5 | 8.77 | 10 | 8.43 | 6 | z7 | z3 | – | 0T2z 0 10 | 5 | 34+ | 3 | 90 |
8 | Seo Chae-hyun | South Korea | 1 | 10.64 | 5 | 12.85 | 9 | 9.85 | 8 | – | – | – | 0T0z 0 0 | 7 | 35+ | 2 | 112 |
Competition climbing is a type of rock climbing held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls, although earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces. The three standalone competition climbing disciplines are: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. A fourth discipline of "combined" is based on combinations of results in the three main disciplines. Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the type of lead climbing performed in competition climbing.
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
The IFSC Climbing World Championships are the biennial world championship event for competition climbing that is organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in the three disciplines of sport climbing: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Since 2012, a Combined ranking is also determined, for climbers competing in all disciplines, and additional medals are awarded based on that ranking. The first event was organized in Frankfurt in 1991.
USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. It promotes competition climbing in the United States in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and collegiate formats. USA Climbing is recognized by the International Federation for Sport Climbing (IFSC), the International Olympic Committee (IOC), and the United States Olympic & Paralympic Committee (USOPC)
Shauna Coxsey is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition climbing after competing in the 2020 Olympics.
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Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Two events were held, one each for men and women. The format controversially consisted of one combined event with three disciplines: lead climbing, speed climbing and bouldering. The medals were determined based on best performance across all three disciplines. This format was previously tested at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics. The Olympic code for sports climbing is CLB.
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The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
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Aleksandra Mirosław is a Polish speed climber and a two-time women's speed climbing world champion as well as the current women's speed climbing world record holder.
The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines. It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.
Laura Rogora is an Italian sport climber. She competed at the 2020 Summer Olympics, in Women's combined sport climbing. In 2015, she became the second youngest climber, at age 14, to complete a 9a (5.14d) route. In 2019, Rogora qualified to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games, finished 2nd in lead at the IFSC Climbing European Championships and won 3 of 4 possible gold medals at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships, coming first in lead, boulder and combined categories in the Junior age group.
Tom O'Halloran is an Australian climber. He qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics by winning the combined men's format in the 2020 IFSC Oceania Championships.
The 2019 IFSC Combined Qualifier was an Olympic Qualifying Event. It was held from 28 November to 1 December 2019 in Toulouse, France. It was organized by the French Federation of Sport Climbing and Mountaineering or FFME. The athletes competed in combined format of three disciplines: speed, bouldering, and lead, simulating the 2020 Olympics format. Six athletes per gender would qualify for the 2020 Tokyo Olympics through this event. The winner for men was Kokoro Fujii and for women was Futaba Ito.
Sport climbing competitions at the 2024 Summer Olympics are scheduled to run from 5 to 10 August at Le Bourget Sport Climbing Venue in Saint-Denis, returning to the program for the second time since the sport's official debut three years earlier in Tokyo 2020. The total number of medal events will double from two in the previous edition, separating the boulder-and-lead tandem from the speed format. Furthermore, Paris 2024 will witness a significant rise in the number of sport climbers competing contrary to Tokyo 2020, expanding the roster size from 40 to 68.