In textile spinning, yarn realisation (YR), or yarn recovery, is an operational parameter of yarn manufacturing. It is the percentage conversion of raw material to finished yarn. The rest of the waste fibers with less value are compared to the weight of the produced yarn from a given weight of raw material. The quantity of waste removed during the various phases of yarn spinning, such as blow-room, carding, and combing, is often used to determine yarn realisation. [1] [2] [3] [4] Yarn realisation ranges between 85% and 90% in carded cotton yarns and between 67% and 75% in combed cotton yarns. [5]
Yarn realisation is one of the important factors that affect the quality of the yarn, profitability, and lead time of a spinning mill. [6] [7] [3] Better realisations make spinning mills more competitive, and greater realisations mean better economics for a spinning business. Even minor changes in yarn realisation, say 1%, translate into a huge impact on spinning production economics. [1] Thus, controlling yarn realisation is as critical to a mill as controlling cotton and mixing costs. [8]
The following components play a significant role in yarn realisation:
In the spinning industry, the cost of raw material is directly influenced by: procurement, methods of mixing, yarn realisation (waste standards), and re-use of waste. [9] After picking, the cotton lint in compressed bales is transferred to the yarn spinning mills. [10] [11]
Cotton lint refers to the fibrous coat that covers the cotton seeds. Cotton lint is ginned cotton. The lint that is delivered to the spinning mill contains a variety of extraneous materials, including seed pieces, dust, and motes, which are collectively referred to as trash. Yarn realisation (YR) is largely influenced by the trash content of cotton, the intended yarn quality, and the type of machinery used. [12] [13]
Trash is non-lint material that is present with cotton lint. It is made up of leaf fragments, bark bits, grass, plastic pieces, sand, and dust. The level of contamination is determined by cultivation, harvesting, and ginning conditions. [14]
Cotton is a natural plant fiber, and depending upon many conditions, such as geography, seed quality, and cultivation, the length of the fiber varies from lot to lot, as well as different qualities. [15] [16] [17] Increased efficiency in yarn manufacturing and yarn quality are dependent on certain fiber characteristics. [18] For an example short fiber content (SFC) by number and by weight influences the productivity and quality of the yarn. Cotton lint with more than 25%SFC(n) is a problem in spinning. [2] [19] [20] Short fibers also known as "noil" extraction improves the yarn quality, consequently affects yarn realisation. [21] [22] Extra noil extraction is required for superior and fine quality yarn, which affects the yarn realization. [2]
Cotton is a hygroscopic fiber, which means it takes in moisture from the environment and also dries quickly if it is kept in a dry place. A small amount of moisture loss in the lint may also contribute to yarn realisation. [23]
To maintain a specified level of moisture in cotton, the relative humidity must be maintained at 65 percent during mixing, winding, and packing. Moisture helps in reducing fluff generation and decreasing in invisible losses. [2]
Spinning is a process in textile manufacturing in which staple fibers are converted into yarn. Optimizing spinning processes and waste management benefits the yarn realisation and the economics of a spinning mill. [24] [25]
Cotton fibers vary in terms of staple length and other physical qualities; it is an inherent characteristic. [2] Bale mixing, or bale management is the process of testing, sorting, and then mixing fibers from different bales [also include the bales received from different stations] according to their fiber qualities in order to produce a certain quality yarn at the lowest possible cost. [26]
The waste in textiles is classified into two types: production waste, which is the raw material for subsequent steps in spinning production (it is cleaning waste left out short fibers in carding or combing, it is a reusable waste). Post-production waste that is not related to spinning, but does happen at the stages of yarn to fabric [manufacturing and processing]. Waste management in spinning contributes to better yarn realisation.
The two types of waste that contribute to yarn realisation are: one is hard waste, which is not reused, and the second type of waste is reusable waste, also called soft waste, which includes sliver bits, lap bits, roving ends, roller waste, and pneumafil. [24]
Yarn produced from the waste fibers can reduce the losses and contribute to the mill's profitability. There are many areas where waste fibers can be used, such as blending. [27]
Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, different fabric types, etc. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is not the only manufacturing method, and many other methods were later developed to form textile structures based on their intended use. Knitting and non-woven are other popular types of fabric manufacturing. In the contemporary world, textiles satisfy the material needs for versatile applications, from simple daily clothing to bulletproof jackets, spacesuits, and doctor's gowns.
Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fiber used to make textiles for clothing and other purposes. It is a form of regenerated cellulose made by dissolving pulp and dry jet-wet spinning. Unlike rayon made by some of the more common viscose processes, Lyocell production does not use carbon disulfide, which is toxic to workers and the environment. Lyocell was originally trademarked as Tencel in 1982.
Textile manufacturing is a major industry. It is largely based on the conversion of fibre into yarn, then yarn into fabric. These are then dyed or printed, fabricated into cloth which is then converted into useful goods such as clothing, household items, upholstery and various industrial products.
Textile fibers, threads, yarns and fabrics are measured in a multiplicity of units.
A staple fiber is a textile fiber of discrete length. The opposite is a filament fiber, which comes in continuous lengths. Staple length is a characteristic fiber length of a sample of staple fibers. A fiber is made up of natural substances and is known for being longer than it is wide. It is an essential criterion in yarn spinning, and aids in cohesion and twisting. Compared to synthetic fibers, natural fibers tend to have different and shorter lengths. The quality of natural fibers like cotton is categorized on staple length such as short, medium, long staple, and extra-long. Gossypium barbadense, one of several cotton species, produces extra-long staple fibers. The staple fibers may be obtained from natural and synthetic sources. In the case of synthetics and blends, the filament yarns are cut to a predetermined length.
Scutching is a step in the processing of cotton or the dressing of flax or hemp in preparation for spinning. The scutching process separates the impurities from the raw material, such as the seeds from raw cotton or the straw and woody stem from flax fibers. Scutching can be done by hand or by a machine known as a scutcher. Hand scutching of flax is done with a wooden scutching knife and a small iron scraper. The end products of scutching flax are the long finer flax fibers called line, short coarser fibers called tow, and waste woody matter called shives.
Uster Technologies, in its industry often called USTER, is a Swiss manufacturer of analytical instruments and on-line monitoring systems for the textile industry, based in Uster, Switzerland. It emerged as a management buy-out form of the textile division Zellweger Uster of the Zellweger Luwa Group in 2003. From 2007 until 2012 the company was publicly traded and listed on the main segment of SIX Swiss Exchange. Since 2012 Uster Technologies is a subsidiary of Toyota Industries Corporation.
Cotton classing is the measurement and classification of cotton by its specific physical attributes. This information is attached to individual bales, thus clarifying their value and helping producers market them. For cotton buyers, i.e. the spinning mills, this precise information about the cotton fiber enables them to achieve consistent yarn quality by optimizing raw material selection and blending.
Dimensional stability pertains to a fabric's ability to maintain its initial size and shape even after undergoing wear and care, which is a desirable property. Dimension stability in fabrics or Shrinkage is the change of dimensions in textile products when they are washed or relaxed. The change is always expressed relative to the dimensions before the exposure of washing or relaxing. Shrinkage is also called residual shrinkage and measured in percentage. The major cause of shrinkages is the release of stresses and strains introduced in manufacturing processes. Textile manufacturing is based on the conversion of fiber into yarn, yarn into fabric, includes spinning, weaving, or knitting, etc. The fabric passes through many inevitable changes and mechanical forces during this journey. When the products are immersed in water, the water acts as a relaxing medium, and all stresses and strains are relaxed and the fabric tries to come back to its original state.
Cotton recycling is the process of converting cotton fabric into fibers that can be reused into other textile products.
Lint is the common name for visible accumulations of textile fibers and other materials, usually found on and around clothing. Certain materials used in the manufacture of clothing, such as cotton, linen, and wool, contain numerous, very short fibers bundled together. During the course of normal wear, these fibers may either detach or be jostled out of the weave of which they are part. This is the reason why heavily-used articles such as shirts and towels become thin over time and why such particles accumulate in the lint screen of a clothes dryer.
Cotton maturity is a physical testing parameter of cotton fiber properties testing. It is quantified by the degree of cell wall thickening relative to its perimeter. The maturity of individual cotton fiber is an essential aspect of the cotton classing regarding the aesthetics such as appearance, dye-uptake, etc. High volume instrument (HVI) can test cotton maturity like many other fiber properties, including length, uniformity, micronaire/fineness, strength, color, etc.
A Cotton bale is a standard-sized and weighted pack of compressed cotton lint after ginning. The dimensions and weight may vary with different cotton-producing countries.
Hand feel is the property of fabrics related to the touch that expresses sensory comfort. It refers to the way fabrics feel against the skin or in the hand and conveys information about the cloth's softness and smoothness. Hand feel is an estimated and subjective property of different fabrics, but nowadays, hand feel could be measured and assessed statistically.
Yarn conditioning is fixing the amount of moisture in the yarns. It is possible by conditioning them in a humidified environment or with the help of a conditioning machine.
Plated fabrics are fabrics that have different colors or types of face and back. The fabrics are formed by using different kinds of yarn types or colors to both be invisible on the other side. Different properties of several textile fibers are exploited to obtain various surface interests and patterns. One of the aspects is the thermophysiological and moisture comfort of clothing.
Scouring is a preparatory treatment of certain textile materials. Scouring removes soluble and insoluble impurities found in textiles as natural, added and adventitious impurities, for example, oils, waxes, fats, vegetable matter, as well as dirt. Removing these contaminants through scouring prepares the textiles for subsequent processes such as bleaching and dyeing. Though a general term, "scouring" is most often used for wool. In cotton, it is synonymously called "boiling out," and in silk, and "boiling off."
Dead cotton is a term that refers to unripe cotton fibers that do not absorb dye. Dead cotton is immature cotton or underdeveloped cotton that has poor dye affinity and appears as white specks on a dyed fabric. Daniel Koechlin (1785–1871), who was a manufacturer and a chemist in Mulhouse, established the fact in 1848 that it is dead cotton fibers that resist dye. Other chemists such as Walter Crum, Albin Haller, and Herzog explored and contributed to the subject further. Crum discovered that dead fibers have very thin cell walls.
Medical textiles are various fiber-based materials intended for medical purposes. Medical textile is a sector of technical textiles that focuses on fiber-based products used in health care applications such as prevention, care, and hygiene. The spectrum of applications of medical textiles ranges from simple cotton bandages to advanced tissue engineering. Common examples of products made from medical textiles include dressings, implants, surgical sutures, certain medical devices, healthcare textiles, diapers, menstrual pads, wipes, and barrier fabrics.
Textile testing is the process of measuring the properties and performance of textile materials—textile testing includes physical and chemical testing of raw materials to finished products.