Burton | |
Company type | Subsidiary |
Industry | retail sale of clothing in specialised stores |
Predecessor | Debenhams |
Founded | 1903 |
Founder | Sir Montague Maurice Burton |
Fate | Converted into an online store |
Successor | www |
Headquarters | London, W1 United Kingdom |
Number of locations | All stores closed (2021) |
Key people | Siobhan Forey (Chief executive officer) |
Owner | Boohoo.com |
Website | www |
Burton is a British online clothing retailer, former high street retailer and clothing manufacturer, specialising in men's clothing and footwear. The company was a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index, but became a trading name of Arcadia Group Brands Ltd, part of the Arcadia Group. Sir Philip Green acquired the Arcadia Group in 2002, and it became the sole owner of Burton. [1] In 2021, Boohoo.com acquired the brand after Arcadia went into administration.
There were over 400 stores in the UK.
The company was founded by Sir Montague Maurice Burton in Chesterfield in 1903 under the name of The Cross-Tailoring Company. [1] It was first listed on the London Stock Exchange in 1929 by which time it had 400 stores, factories and mills. [1]
After World War II, Montague Burton was one of the suppliers of demob suits to the British government for demobilising servicemen, comprising jacket, trousers, waistcoat, shirt and underwear. [1] It has been speculated that this is the origin of the phrase "the full monty". In 1946, the company acquired the Peter Robinson department store chain. [2] Montague Burton died in 1952. By this time, the company was the largest multiple tailor in the world.[ citation needed ]
The company expanded by purchasing various other brands, including competitors until it was split from Debenhams in 1998.[ clarification needed ] At this time Burtons became a brand name, and the Arcadia Group name took over as the group name.[ citation needed ]
The companies purchased or merged with were:
Burton was the official clothing supplier to the England national football team for the 1966 FIFA World Cup, UEFA Euro 1996 and the 2002 FIFA World Cup championships. [1] In 1998 the company changed its name to Arcadia Group. [5]
Philip Green purchased the company in 2002. [1]
The Burton company archives are held at the West Yorkshire Archive Service in Leeds. [6]
In July 2020, Arcadia Group, which comprised several brands including Burton, had been hit hard by the COVID-19 lockdown and planned hundreds of job cuts to minimise costs. [7] As financial difficulties worsened, Arcadia entered administration on 30 November 2020. [8] In February 2021, Boohoo.com announced it was buying the Burton brand from Arcadia (along with the Wallis and Dorothy Perkins brands) for £25.2 million, with the loss of around 2,450 jobs. [9] All Burton stores closed as the company became an online only retailer. [10]
Beginning in 1923, Burton began to acquire freehold sites in order to build its own custom designed stores. [11] Prominent town centre corner sites were preferred and the shops often moved a few doors along the same street in order to acquire the corner site. Leeds-based architect Harry Wilson was hired at this time and developed the Burton "house style" building design. In 1931 Burton took over Wilson's practice to make it the in-house architecture department. [12] Wilson was replaced as chief architect by Nathaniel Martin in 1937. [11]
This Burton in-house architecture was Art Deco in style. Individual stores vary from the more restrained red-brick with neoclassical scroll headed columns to fully-fledged Art Deco with glazed white faience tile, geometric patterns and stylised elephant heads. However, there are also many standard elements such as a wide polished black granite band above the shop windows for signage, metal vent grates bearing the company logo, billiard halls on the upper levels, window lights showing the locations of other Burton stores, and mosaic titles –sometimes including the company logo –in the doorways.
At ground level, foundation stones were often placed by Montague Burton's four children, Barbara, Stanley, Arnold and Raymond. Each store might have one or several foundation stones, each bearing one name and the year. For example: "This stone laid by Raymond Montaque Burton 1937". The children were quite young when these stones were laid. Stanley Howard was born in 1914 [13] and laid a stone for the Nottingham Beastmarket Hill store in 1924. At least six stores bear stones laid by Montague's wife "Lady Burton", and a number in the mid to late 1930s were laid by Austin Stephen Burton who may have been a grandchild. [14]
Whilst some of these Burton buildings have been destroyed over the years, many are still standing and some of them still have active snooker clubs upstairs. Some were still occupied by Burton stores at the time of Arcadia's closure in 2020 (often a combined Burton and Dorothy Perkins store) but many others had changed use. McDonald's first three restaurants in the UK were opened in former Burton stores in 1974 and 1975 as the company was selling property at that time. [15]
Most of the Scottish stores are listed with Historic Environment Scotland, protecting them from changes. [lower-alpha 1] However, only six stores in England and Wales are listed buildings, [lower-alpha 2] leaving over 200 with no protection from future changes or demolition. As of 2021 [update] , stores have been demolished in Plymouth (2004) [22] and Neasden (2012). [23] [ needs update? ]
The first Dublin Burton's store was housed in the purpose-built Montague Burton Building on the corner of Dame Street and South Great George's Street. It is now on the city's list of protected structures. [24]
Burton has worked with the Bobby Moore Fund in order to publicize the issue of bowel cancer. [25] England's World-Cup-winning football team captain Bobby Moore died of bowel cancer in 1993. The Bobby Moore Fund is an arm of Cancer Research UK.
In November 2009, Burton sought to bring back "The Burton", a style of moustache worn by founder Montague Burton, through their support of the Movember campaign in order to raise money for The Prostate Cancer Charity.[ citation needed ] The "Burton" moustache was styled upon two influential moustache types, the English and the Handlebar.
Debenhams plc was a British department store chain operating in the United Kingdom, Denmark and the Republic of Ireland, and is still operating as a franchise in seven Middle East countries. It was founded in 1778 as a single store in London and grew to 178 locations across those countries, also owning the Danish department store chain Magasin du Nord. In its final years, its headquarters were within the premises of its flagship store in Oxford Street, London. The range of goods sold included middle-to-high-end clothing, beauty, household items, and furniture.
Sir Philip Nigel Ross Green is a British businessman who was the chairman of the retail company Arcadia Group. He owned the high street clothing retailers Topshop, Topman, and Miss Selfridge from 2002 to 2020. In May 2023, his net worth was estimated by the Sunday Times Rich List to be £910 million.
TOPSHOP is a British fast-fashion company, which specialises in women's clothing, shoes and accessories. It was part of the Arcadia Group, controlled by Sir Philip Green, but went into administration in late 2020 before being purchased by ASOS on 1 February 2021. It now operates via the ASOS website and app, as well as being sold in Nordstrom stores in the US on Nordstrom.com. TOPSHOP previously had around 510 shops worldwide.
British Home Stores, commonly abbreviated to BHS and latterly legally styled BHS Ltd, was a British department store chain, primarily selling clothing and household items. In its later years, the company began to expand into furniture, electronics, entertainment, convenience groceries and fragrance and beauty products.
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Arcadia Group Ltd was a British multinational retailing company headquartered in London, England. It was best known for being the previous parent company of British Home Stores (BHS), Burton, Dorothy Perkins, Debenhams, Evans, Miss Selfridge, Topman, Topshop, Wallis and Warehouse. At its peak, the group had more than 2,500 outlets in the UK and concessions in UK department stores and several hundred franchises operated internationally.
Dorothy Perkins is an online British women's fashion brand based in the United Kingdom. Formerly a store chain, it sold both its own range of clothes and branded fashion goods until February 2021, when it became part of Boohoo.com, having been acquired after the collapse of Philip Green's fashion empire Arcadia Group.
Wallis is an online British women's clothing brand. Previously a retailer, Wallis operated from 134 stores and 126 concessions across the UK and Republic of Ireland. Wallis was a subsidiary of the Arcadia Group before its collapse in late 2020. The brand is now owned by Boohoo.com.
Miss Selfridge is a British fashion brand and former high street store chain which began as the young fashion section of Selfridges department store in London in 1966. It was part of the Arcadia Group, controlled by Sir Philip Green, which went into administration in late 2020. The Miss Selfridge brand was purchased by ASOS on 1 February 2021 and now operates exclusively online.
Topman is a UK-based multinational men's fashion retail brand founded by Burton Group in 1978. Along with its women's clothing counterpart Topshop and the rest of Arcadia Group, Topman went into administration in late 2020. All high street stores subsequently closed and the brand was purchased by ASOS on 1 February 2021, relaunching as an online-only retailer.
Richard Shops was a British high street retailer of women's fashion.
United Drapery Stores, or UDS, was a British retail group that dominated the British high street from the 1950s to the early 1980s.
Karen Millen is a brand used by online women's clothing retailer Boohoo plc. The brand specialises in tailoring, coats and evening wear. It was acquired in 2019 following the collapse of Karen Millen Fashions Ltd, a company that operated a chain of clothing stores in many countries worldwide. The company was originally founded in 1981 by British entrepreneur fashion designer Karen Millen. She sold it in 2004 and was not subsequently involved in businesses bearing her name.
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Mahmud Abdullah Kamani is a British billionaire businessman. He is co-founder and executive chairman of Boohoo Group.
The COVID-19 pandemic has taken a sharp economic toll on the retail industry worldwide as many retailers and shopping centers were forced to shut down for months due to mandated stay-at-home orders. As a result of these closures, online retailers received a major boost in sales as customers looked for alternative ways to shop and the effects of the retail apocalypse were exacerbated. A number of notable retailers filed for bankruptcy including Ascena Retail Group, Debenhams, Arcadia Group, Brooks Brothers, GNC, J. C. Penney, Lord & Taylor and Neiman Marcus.
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