Eric Gilbertson (climber)

Last updated

Eric W. Gilbertson
Egilbertson.jpg
Gilbertson in 2009
Born1986 (age 3839) [1]
Occupation Associate professor
Academic background
Alma mater Massachusetts Institute of Technology, BS, 2008; MS, 2010; PhD, 2014
Thesis Describing functions for information channels subject to packet loss and quantization  (2014)
Doctoral advisor Franz S. Hover
Institutions
Sports career
Climbing career
Type of climber
First ascents
Website www.countryhighpoints.com OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg

Eric Gilbertson (born 1986) is an American mountaineer and associate professor of mechanical engineering at Seattle University. He is known for his accomplishments in climbing and his work as an amateur mountain surveyor. His surveying activities have resulted in a re-evaluation about the actual elevation and location of several mountain summits.

Contents

Early life and academic career

Gilbertson was born a twin in Berea, Kentucky, a mountainous region [1] on the Cumberland Plateau where he grew up. [2] He said that his passion for mountaineering started with trips with their parents to the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. [3] Gilbertson and his brother Matthew graduated from Berea Community High School in 2004. They then moved to Cambridge, Massachusetts, to attend the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). [4]

While at MIT, Gilbertson was an intern at the NASA Jet Propulsion Laboratory, where he co-designed a Mars lander to study the climate. [5] He received his Bachelor of Science in mechanical engineering (ME) in 2008. [6]

He and his brother spent the subsequent summer bikepacking southward from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, [6] before returning to MIT where Gilbertson completed his Master of Science in 2010, and a PhD in 2014, both in ME. [4] His graduate work involved autonomous underwater vehicles and acoustic physics in collaboration with the Office of Naval Research. [7]

After he graduated Gilbertson taught at the Skolkovo Institute of Science and Technology, [7] which operated through a partnership with MIT. [8] In 2016, he relocated to Seattle, where he taught mathematics at North Seattle College. [9] As of November 2025, he is an associate professor of ME at Seattle University, [10] [11] where he has taught since at least 2018. [12]

Mountaineering

Gilbertson's photo of Pik Kommunizma, one of the Snow Leopard peaks and the highest mountain in Tajikstan Pik Kommunizma.jpg
Gilbertson's photo of Pik Kommunizma, one of the Snow Leopard peaks and the highest mountain in Tajikstan

Gilbertson was involved with the MIT Outing Club as a mountaineering guide. [13]

He and Matthew climbed the high points of all 50 states in the United States, a project that took them five years. [13] In 2016, they applied for a Guinness World Record as they believed they were the first people to highpoint every peak in every North American country. [9] They say they are on a mission to climb the highest elevation point of every country in the world. [14] [13] Their first country high point was Denali in May 2010. [13] Gilbertson said that as of October 2025, he had climbed 144 of 196 country high points. [15]

Gilbertson completed the fastest known time (FKT) for the 100 tallest mountains in Colorado, Wyoming's thirteeners, and the tallest 27 peaks in Montana, [16] the Rocky Mountains Slam, in 2020 [15] until 2023, when Jason Hardrath, an Oregon elementary school teacher, beat his record. [17] He completed the FKT for the Bulger List, the hundred tallest mountains in Washington state, in 2018. This record was also beaten by Hardrath in 2021. [18]

In 2023 Gilbertson became the third American to achieve the Snow Leopard award by summiting all five peaks above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft) in the former Soviet Union. [19] [20] Gilbertson climbed K2 without oxygen in 2022. [21] [22] He has done the same with other Himalayan peaks. [19] Although he is mostly a peakbagger, Gilbertson has also completed some technical first ascents, [23] including Alpomish, within the Gissar Range with Andreas Frydensberg [22] on August 23, 2023. [24]

Surveying

Gilbertson uses professional surveying equipment such as GNSS receivers to precisely find the elevation of mountain summits. [25] In 2018, Gilbertson climbed Jabal Sawda, which was previously believed to be the high point of Saudi Arabia, but determined that it was shorter than Jabal Ferwa. [3] The Saudi Climbing Federation subsequently changed the official high point. [26] [27] He and his brother ascertained the high points of Togo, Guinea-Bissau, and Ivory Coast. [3] [27]

In 2024 he was awarded a grant by the American Alpine Club to survey the Cascade Range in Washington state to determine how Washington's mountains were being impacted by climate change. [19] [23] He found the summit of Mount Saint Helens has been eroding at a rate of 4 inches (10 cm) annually since 1989. [28] [29]

Gilbertson surveyed five historical icecap summits from August through October 2024 [30] to track ice melt over time. He first reported the findings on Mount Rainier in 2024. Larry Signani, who first surveyed the mountain for the Army Corps of Engineers, told The Seattle Times that the results were credible. [21] Gilbertson, Scott Hotaling, a watershed specialist at Utah State University, and collaborators [31] concluded that four of the five—Mount Rainier, Eldorado Peak, East Fury, and Liberty Cap—had lost around 20–30 feet (6–9 m) of ice. [32] [33] Colfax Peak had maintained its elevation and it, along with Liberty Cap, remained the only ones that still had ice on the summit year-round. [32] [23] Mauri Pelto, a glaciologist for the North Cascade Glacier Climate Project, has recorded similar ice losses at 30 glaciers in the state since 1990. [34]

The findings, published in 2025, indicated that the ice melt is attributed to climate change and an increase of temperature of nearly 5.5 °F (3.1 °C) since the mid-twentieth century, with most of this increase happening since 1990. [32] [33] Gilbertson also determined that Mount Rainier's summit had also moved from the Columbia Crest to a point on the southwest crater rim that melts down to bare rock at 14,399.6 feet (4,389.0 m) over the summer. Scott Beason, a geologist at Mount Rainier National Park, said that Gilbertson's findings were consistent with the park's glacial monitoring program. [2] Terry Wildy, the park's chief of interpretation, expressed concern for the methods Gilbertson used, but said that the team requested the raw field data from the survey for evaluation and falsification. The Land Surveyors' Association of Washington's 2010 survey showed no significant change to the summit elevation, despite Rainier losing half of its ice between 1896 and 2023. They scheduled a survey for 2026. [10]

On October 5, 2025, Gilbertson surveyed Crestone and East Crestone peaks in Colorado, determining that East Crestone is 14,299.3 feet (4,358.4 m) high, and around 3.6 inches (9.1 cm) taller than Crestone, which was previously considered the true summit of the Crestone cluster. [15] Gilbertson's measurements found the opposite of another survey using LiDAR. [25] He found that LiDAR has limitations that make its measurements inaccurate for certain features, like small, sharp summits. [35] [29] He showed that where LiDAR indicated there was a spire on East Cretone's summit, there wasn't any such feature. [35] As to the discrepancy between their heights, he said that "The simplest explanation is they just hadn’t been measured accurately enough until now to know which was taller". [25]

Select publications

References

  1. 1 2 "Brothers Become First to Climb Highest Mountain in Every North American Country". web.mit.edu. Retrieved December 13, 2025.
  2. 1 2 "Shrinking Mount Rainier". National Parks Traveler. November 16, 2025. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  3. 1 2 3 Southern, Keiran (November 2, 2022). "Twin peaks: brothers Matthew and Eric Gilbertson rewrite mountain record books". The Times . London. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  4. 1 2 "Gilbertson participates in PhD Ceremony". The Berea Citizen. December 11, 2014. pp. B2.
  5. Nuding, D. L. (2012). "Mars Student Climate Lander". Concepts and Approaches for Mars Exploration. 1679: 4045. ISSN   0161-5297.
  6. 1 2 "Gilbertson brothers graduate". The Berea Citizen. July 10, 2008. pp. B3.
  7. 1 2 "Author – Eric Gilbertson". Denver Westword. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  8. Staley, Oliver (May 8, 2013). "Russia teams with MIT on Skolkovo Institute of Science and Technology". Washington Post. ISSN   0190-8286 . Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  9. 1 2 Ghosh, Souparno (April 8, 2016). "Alumni have summitted the highest points of every North American country". The Tech. Retrieved December 13, 2025.
  10. 1 2 Ryan, John (November 26, 2025). "Mount Rainier is shrinking (just a bit), new study finds". www.kuow.org. Retrieved December 8, 2025.
  11. "Eric Gilbertson, PhD". Seattle University. Retrieved December 16, 2025.
  12. Kaur, Rania. "Circus Club is a Flipping Good Time". The Spectator. Retrieved December 16, 2025.
  13. 1 2 3 4 "Country Highpoints. Bracia jako pierwsi chcą zdobyć najwyższe szczyty górskie w 196 krajach | National Geographic". www.national-geographic.pl (in Polish). Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  14. "Zwillinge wollen höchste Punkte in allen Ländern der Welt erreichen". Süddeutsche.de (in German). November 9, 2022. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  15. 1 2 3 Spencer, Ryan (October 18, 2025). "How a mountaineer discovered a potential 3.6-inch discrepancy that could result in a 'new' Colorado 14er". The Aspen Times . Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  16. Blevins, Jason (October 17, 2025). "Climbing engineers identify possible new 14er in Colorado — and one that might need to be demoted". The Colorado Sun. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  17. Milne, Keeley (August 9, 2023). "Oregon's Jason Hardrath obliterates Rocky Mountain Grand Slam FKT". Canadian Running Magazine. Retrieved December 13, 2025.
  18. Scruggs, Gregory (October 21, 2021). "This Oregon teacher climbed Washington's 100 tallest peaks in 51 days". The Seattle Times. Archived from the original on October 29, 2021. Retrieved December 13, 2025.
  19. 1 2 3 McLemore, Andrew (September 17, 2024). "Mount Rainier's Melting Summit Exposes New Highest Point". GearJunkie. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  20. "The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club". American Alpine Club. August 21, 2024. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  21. 1 2 Swanson, Conrad (October 6, 2024). "Mount Rainier is shrinking and now has a new summit". The Seattle Times. Archived from the original on October 7, 2024. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  22. 1 2 McDowell, Heidi (August 21, 2024). "The Line: Global Ambition — American Alpine Club". American Alpine Club. Retrieved December 15, 2025.
  23. 1 2 3 Hooper, Lucy (February 21, 2025). "The Height of Mountains". American Alpine Club. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  24. Seidman, Lila (November 30, 2023). "Traveling abroad isn't all about sightseeing. Here's how to get outdoors wherever you are". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved December 16, 2025.
  25. 1 2 3 Dapcevich, Madison (October 17, 2025). "Did Colorado Really Just Get a New 14er?". Outside. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  26. "In numbers: This is the highest peak in Saudi Arabia". Al Arabiya English. August 30, 2018. Retrieved December 16, 2025.
  27. 1 2 Gilbertson, Eric; Gilbertson, Matthew (2025). "Determination of new national highpoints of five African and Asian countries: Saudi Arabia, Uzbekistan, Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, and Togo". Progress in Physical Geography: Earth and Environment. doi: 10.1177/03091333251401102 .
  28. Vanderveen, Chris; Hansen, Chris (October 17, 2025). "Climbers beware! The summit of one of Colorado's majestic 14ers is all wrong". KUSA NBC. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  29. 1 2 Gilbertson, Eric; Hensley, Richard; Kirmse, Andrew; Bretherton, Kyle; Stanchak, Kathryn (November 26, 2025). "LiDAR accuracy on North American mountain summits". Progress in Physical Geography: Earth and Environment. doi:10.1177/03091333251401361. ISSN   0309-1333.
  30. Cozzens, Tracy (November 13, 2025). "GNSS surveys show shift in Mount Rainier summit – GPS World" . Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  31. Long, Caroline (November 25, 2025). "Ice-capped peaks are shrinking as climate change warms their summits". Utah Public Radio. Retrieved December 14, 2025.
  32. 1 2 3 Clarke, Owen (November 12, 2025). "A New Report Suggests Mount Rainier Is Getting Shorter". Outside. Retrieved November 23, 2025.
  33. 1 2 Gilbertson, Eric; Abatzoglou, John T.; Stanchak, Kathryn E.; Hotaling, Scott (2025). "Rapid contemporary shrinking and loss of ice-capped summits in the western United States". Arctic, Antarctic, and Alpine Research. 57 (1) 2572898. doi: 10.1080/15230430.2025.2572898 . ISSN   1523-0430.
  34. Hill, Sam (November 21, 2025). "One of America's tallest national park peaks is shrinking". SFGate.
  35. 1 2 Forrest, Brett (October 17, 2025). "New Colorado 14er? Surveyors Claim New 14er Discovery, Changing True Summit of Iconic Peak". KOAA News 5. Retrieved December 14, 2025.