Fully fashioned stockings

Last updated
Characteristics of fully fashioned nylon stockings Fully fashioned stockings.png
Characteristics of fully fashioned nylon stockings

Fully fashioned stockings (FFS), are stockings with characteristic reinforcements on the heel and top, a so-called keyhole at the back of the top, and a stitched back seam in between. They are made to be worn with a garter belt and are today considered a vintage design of hosiery after largely having been replaced by seamless stockings and pantyhose from the 1960s onwards. Fully fashioned stockings are usually made from nylon and thus have very little stretch compared with modern stockings and pantyhose.

Contents

Description

Fully-fashioned Point Heel stockings with the welt, shadow welt, keyhole, seam and heel reinforcement clearly visible Fully fashioned seamed.jpg
Fully-fashioned Point Heel stockings with the welt, shadow welt, keyhole, seam and heel reinforcement clearly visible

Fully fashioned stockings are usually knitted from sheer nylon yarn. To support the attachment of suspenders, they have a darker section of double fabric at the top, called the welt. This is followed by a lighter transitional section called the shadow welt. The keyhole is visible in the middle of the seam at the back of the welt. [1] The back seam is an integral part of the stocking and not sewn on afterwards. [2]

Fully fashioned stockings are sized to the height and shoe size (generally) of the wearer and have little or no stretch in them as they have no lycra (spandex) contained within the yarn. [3]

In addition to the distinctive seam they also come in a number of heel designs. The most common are the French or PointHeel, where the reinforcement ends in a sharp point, and the Cuban Heel, which ends in a truncated point.

Manufacturing

Fully fashioned knitting means that a garment is shaped by increasing and decreasing the number of stitches in a row. [4]

Fully fashioned stockings are made from sections of nylon fabric that are knitted flat from the top down in the shape of a profile view of a leg. These are then sewn together in the back forming the seam. The top is folded and sewn back on itself forming the welt and the shadow welt, with a finishing loop applied, forming the keyhole, to allow the needle sewing the seam to be withdrawn. Additional layers of nylon are added to reinforce the sole and heel. [1]

Fully fashioned stockings are becoming increasingly rare; only a handful of manufacturers worldwide now make them regularly. [2] [5]

History

Fully fashioned stockings rose to prominence in the market during the 1940s (peaking in the 1950s) with the introduction of Nylon, with over 780,000 pairs sold on the first day and 64 million in the first year of North American sales alone. [2] [6] [5] They remained popular until the introduction of Lycra in 1958 and mini-skirts shortly after. [2] [7] [6] [5]

Heel styles now vary from the original French (pyramidal) or point heel which was made most famous by the Aristoc Point Heel design to the Cuban and Havana heels – darkened reinforced heel design finishing in a square top rather than pointed top – the Cuban heel being defined by being much thinner and finishing higher up the calf than the Havana heel.[ citation needed ]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitting</span> Method of forming fabric from yarn

Knitting is a method for production of textile fabrics by interlacing yarn loops with loops of the same or other yarns. It is used to create many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hosiery</span> Legwear for the feet and legs

Hosiery, also referred to as legwear, describes garments worn directly on the feet and legs. The term originated as the collective term for products of which a maker or seller is termed a hosier; and those products are also known generically as hose. The term is also used for all types of knitted fabric, and its thickness and weight is defined by denier or opacity. Lower denier measurements of 5 to 15 describe a hose which may be sheer in appearance, whereas styles of 40 and above are dense, with little to no light able to come through on 100 denier items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tunisian crochet</span> Type of crochet

Tunisian crochet or Afghan crochet is a type of crochet that uses an elongated hook, often with a stopper on the handle end, called an Afghan hook. It is sometimes considered to be a mixture of crocheting and knitting. As such, some techniques used in knitting are also applicable in Tunisian crochet. One example is the intarsia method.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tights</span> Heavy, opaque stockings woven in one with panties

Tights are a kind of cloth garment, most often sheathing the body from the waist to the toe tips with a tight fit, hence the name. They come in absolute opaque, opaque, sheer and fishnet styles — or a combination, such as the original concept of the American term pantyhose with sheer legs and opaque panty.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stocking</span> Hosiery that covers the feet and legs to the knee or higher

Stockings are close-fitting, variously elastic garments covering the leg from the foot up to the knee or possibly part or all of the thigh. Stockings vary in color, design, and transparency. Today, stockings are primarily worn for fashion and aesthetics, usually in association with mid-length or short skirts.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pantyhose</span> Garment for women and girls

Pantyhose, sometimes also called sheer tights, are close-fitting legwear covering the wearer's body from the waist to the toes. Pantyhose first appeared on store shelves in 1959 for the advertisement of new design panties as a convenient alternative to stockings and/or control panties which, in turn, replaced girdles.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of knitting</span> History of knitting

Knitting is the process of using two or more needles to pull and loop yarn into a series of interconnected loops in order to create a finished garment or some other type of fabric. The word is derived from knot, thought to originate from the Dutch verb knutten, which is similar to the Old English cnyttan, "to knot". Its origins lie in the basic human need for clothing for protection against the elements. More recently, hand knitting has become less a necessary skill and more of a hobby.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitting machine</span> Device used to create knitted fabrics

A knitting machine is a device used to create knitted fabrics in a semi or fully automated fashion. There are numerous types of knitting machines, ranging from simple spool or board templates with no moving parts to highly complex mechanisms controlled by electronics. All, however, produce various types of knitted fabrics, usually either flat or tubular, and of varying degrees of complexity. Pattern stitches can be selected by hand manipulation of the needles, push-buttons and dials, mechanical punch cards, or electronic pattern reading devices and computers.

In knitting, binding off, or casting off, is a family of techniques for ending a column of stitches. Binding off is typically used to define the final edge of a knitted fabric, although it may also be used in other contexts, e.g., in making button holes. In principle, binding off is the opposite of casting on, but the techniques are generally not mirror images of one another. Sometimes, however, they can produce a mirror image appearance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Welting (knitting)</span>

In knitting, welting is the horizontal analog of ribbing; that is, one or more horizontal rows of knit stitches alternating with one or more rows of purl stitches.

Basic knitted fabrics include stocking stitch, reverse stocking stitch, garter stitch, seed stitch, faggoting, and tricot. In some cases, these fabrics appear differently on the right side than on the wrong side.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Warp knitting</span> Manufacturing process

Warp knitting is defined as a loop-forming process in which the yarn is fed into the knitting zone, parallel to the fabric selvage. It forms vertical loops in one course and then moves diagonally to knit the next course. Thus the yarns zigzag from side to side along the length of the fabric. Each stitch in a course is made by many different yarns. Each stitch in one wale is made by several different yarns.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double knitting</span> Form of hand knitting in which two fabrics are knitted simultaneously on one pair of needles

Double knitting is a form of hand knitting in which two fabrics are knitted simultaneously on one pair of needles. The fabrics may be inseparable, as in interlock knitted fabrics, or they can simply be two unconnected fabrics. In principle, an arbitrary number of fabrics can be knitted simultaneously on one pair of knitting needles with yarns, as long as one is careful.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitted fabric</span> Textile material made using knitting techniques, often by machine knitting

Knitted fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more readily constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.

The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.

Complete garment knitting is a next-generation form of fully fashioned knitting that adds the capability of making a 3-dimensional full garment. Unlike other fully fashioned knitting, where the shaped pieces must still be sewn together, finished complete knitted garments do not have seams. The knitting machines' computerized instructions direct movement of hundreds of needles to construct and connect several tubular knitted forms to create a complete garment in a single production step.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hold-ups</span> Thigh high stockings

Hold-ups or stay-ups are stockings with an elasticized band at the top, designed to hold the stockings up when worn, without the use of a garter belt or garters. Thigh highs are held up by one or more bands sewn to the top that is backed with silicone on its inner surface. This ensures the thigh highs stay in position because of the elastic and the friction of the silicone against the skin. The silicone can become ineffective by contact with body lotions, oils and talcum powder, as they all reduce the friction of the silicone. Thigh highs are designed so that the elastic band exerts just the right pressure on the wearer's thigh, avoiding any uncomfortable tightness or unflattering muffin-top effect. Sometimes thigh highs are preferred to pantyhose for hygiene reasons, because they reduce excessive microbial growth around the groin due to humidity and warmth.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Twined knitting</span> Knitting technique

Twined knitting is a traditional Scandinavian knitting technique. It refers to knitting where two strands of yarn are knitted into the fabric alternatively and twisted once and always in the same direction before every stitch. The technique is called tvåändsstickning in Swedish, tvebandsstrikking in Norwegian, and tvebinding in Danish. Their literal meaning is "two-end knitting", referring to the traditional way of knitting with both yarn ends from one ball of yarn.

References

  1. 1 2 "The Story of Nylon Stockings - DreamDate: Vintage slips for sale online" . Retrieved 2020-09-25.
  2. 1 2 3 4 Spencer (2001). Knitting Technology: A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide. CRC Press. p. 196. ISBN   978-1-58716-121-6.
  3. Freeth (2005). Made in America: From Levi's to Barbie to Google. MBI Publishing Company. p. 208. ISBN   978-0-7603-2270-3.
  4. Hallett, Clive; Johnston, Amanda (2014-02-03). Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide: Natural and Man-made Fibres. Laurence King Publishing. ISBN   978-1-78067-421-6.
  5. 1 2 3 Lockhart, Mary (2000-02-05). "Working a seam". The Scotsman . Archived from the original on 2014-06-10. Retrieved 2014-01-06.
  6. 1 2 Brown, Jonathan (2007-07-19). "Sales Shock: A Last Glimpse of Stockings". Belfast Telegraph . Archived from the original on 2014-06-10. Retrieved 2014-01-06.
  7. Cicolini, Alice (2005-01-01). "Stockings, Women's". Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion. Archived from the original on 2014-06-10. Retrieved 2014-01-06.