Seam (sewing)

Last updated
Seams join fabric pieces in this quilt. Quilting seam.jpg
Seams join fabric pieces in this quilt.
A curved seam Curved seam.jpg
A curved seam

In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Seams in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothing are sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing. [1]

Contents

In clothing construction, seams are classified by their type (plain, lapped, abutted, or French seams [1] ) and position in the finished garment (center back seam, inseam, side seam). Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to prevent raveling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments. [2]

The most common standard for seams is ASTM International ASTM D6193-16(2020) [3] This standard also covers various types of stitches

Types

A flat fell seam Flat felled seam.jpg
A flat fell seam

All basics seams used in clothing construction are variants on four basic types of seams: [1]

Seams on a pant leg. Som - seam - stitch -2022.jpg
Seams on a pant leg.

A plain seam is the most common type of machine-sewn seam. It joins two pieces of fabric together face-to-face by sewing through both pieces, leaving a seam allowance with raw edges inside the work. The seam allowance usually requires some sort of seam finish, usually an overlock in ready to wear or bias tape in couture sewing, to prevent raveling. [4]

Either piping or cording may be inserted into a plain seam.

In a French seam, the raw edges of the fabric are fully enclosed for a neat finish. The seam is first sewn with wrong sides together at a quarter of an inch seam allowance, then the seam allowances are trimmed to an eighth and pressed. The project is then flipped over, and a second seam is sewn with a quarter inch seam allowance with right sides together, enclosing the raw edges of the original seam. [5]

In a flat or abutted seam, two pieces of fabric are joined edge-to edge with no overlap and sewn with hand or machine stitching that encloses the raw edges. Antique or old German seam is the 19th century name for a hand-sewn flat seam that joins two pieces of fabric at their selvages. This type of construction is found in traditional linen garments such as shirts and chemises, and in hand-made sheets pieced from narrow loom widths of linen. [6]

In a faux flat felled seam, two pieces of fabric are sewn with wrong sides together, usually at half of an inch. One side of the seam allowance is trimmed to an eighth of an inch, followed by folding the half inch side in half and pressing down, then edge stitching. These seams have historically been used in shirts for men. A true flat felled seam is produced on a double needle flat felled machine, and they are most often used for the inseam, yoke, and crotch seam of jeans.

Finishes

A seam finish is a treatment that secures and neatens the raw edges of a plain seam to prevent raveling, [7] by sewing over the raw edges or enclosing them in some sort of binding.

On mass-produced clothing, the seam allowances of plain seams are usually finished with an overlock stitch using a serger, which trims the seam allowance as it stitches. Plain seams may also be pressed open, with each seam allowance separately secured with an overlock stitch. Traditional home sewing techniques for finishing plain seams include trimming with pinking shears, oversewing with a zig-zag stitch, and hand or machine overcasting.

A bound seam has each of the raw edges of its seam allowances enclosed in a strip of fabric, lace or net 'binding' that has been folded in half lengthwise. An example of binding is double-fold bias tape. The binding's fold is wrapped around the raw edge of the seam allowance and is stitched, through all layers, catching underside of the binding in stitching. [7] Bound seams are often used on lightweight fabrics including silk and chiffon and on unlined garments to produce a neat finish.

A Hong Kong seam or Hong Kong finish is a home sewing term [8] for a type of bound seam in which each raw edge of the seam allowance is separately encased in a fabric binding. [9] In couture sewing or tailoring, the binding is usually a bias-cut strip of lightweight lining fabric; in home sewing, commercial bias tape is often used.

In a Hong Kong finish, a bias strip of fabric is cut to the width of the seam allowance plus 1/4". The bias strip is placed on top of the seam allowance, right sides together, and stitched 1/8" from raw edges. The bias strip is then folded over the raw edge and around to the underside and stitched in place.

Position

In clothing construction, seams are identified by their position in the finished garment.

A center front seam runs vertically down the front of a garment.

A center back seam or back seam runs vertically down the center-back of a garment. It can be used to create anatomical shaping to the back portion of a garment particularly through the waist area and hips. It can also be used for styling and functional purposes involving pleats, vents, flare toward the hem or for back closures such as buttoned plackets or zippers.

A side seam runs vertically down the side of a garment.

A side-back seam runs from the armscye to the waist, and fits the garment to the curve below the shoulder blades. Side-back seams may be used instead of, or in combination with, side and center back seams.

A shoulder seam runs from the neckline to the armscye, usually at the highest point of the shoulder. A shoulder seam which extends beyond the shoulder point is called a drop shoulder. [10]

Princess seams in the front or back run from the shoulder or armscye to the hem at the side-back or side-front. Princess seams shape the garment to the body's curves and eliminate the need for darting at the bust, waist, and shoulder. [11]

An inseam is the seam from the bottom crotch to the lower ankle that binds the length of the inner trouser leg. [12] The inseam length determines the length of the inner pant leg. In the UK this is usually known as the inside-leg measurement (for trousers fit).

Notching or clipping a curved seam

When making an outward-curved seam, the material will have reduced bulk and lie flat if notches are cut into the seam allowance. Alternatively, when making an inward-curved seam, clips are cut into the seam allowance to help the seam lie flat with reduced bulk in the fabric. [13]

Once seam allowances are pinned or basted, they are often pressed flat with an iron before sewing the final seam. Pressing the seam allowances makes it easier to sew a consistent finished seam.

See also

Notes

  1. 1 2 3 Schaeffer (2001), p. 35
  2. Reader's Digest (1976), pp. 144-158
  3. "Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams". ASTM International. ASTM International. Retrieved 8 February 2024.
  4. Picken (1957), p. 288
  5. Picken (1957), p. 287
  6. Dillmont (1884), Chapter 1
  7. 1 2 Reader's Digest (1976), p. 148
  8. Schaeffer (2001), p. 212
  9. "Tailoring Tricks Part 3: Hong Kong Seam Finish". www.asg.org. Retrieved 2023-02-28.
  10. Coffin 1998.
  11. Reader's Digest (1976), p. 158
  12. Amaden-Crawford, Connie (2013). Patternmaking Made Easy. Amaden-Crawford LLC. p. 395. ISBN   9780964951679.
  13. Maresh, Jan Saunders (2011). Sewing For Dummies. John Wiley & Sons. pp. 5–43. ISBN   9781118054222.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing machine</span> Machine used to stitch fabric

A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Appliqué</span> Piece of textile ornament, or work created by applying such ornaments to a ground fabric

Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique is accomplished either by hand stitching or machine. Appliqué is commonly practised with textiles, but the term may be applied to similar techniques used on different materials. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing</span> Craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a needle and thread

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with a sewing needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic era. Before the invention of spinning yarn or weaving fabric, archaeologists believe Stone Age people across Europe and Asia sewed fur and leather clothing using bone, antler or ivory sewing-needles and "thread" made of various animal body parts including sinew, catgut, and veins.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lockstitch</span> Stitch made by sewing machines

A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing machine. The term "single needle stitching", often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hem</span> Garment finishing method

A hem in sewing is a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric and to adjust the length of the piece in garments, such as at the end of the sleeve or the bottom of the garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Overlock</span> Multi-thread stitch produced in a single production step with an overlock sewing machine

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through, though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pattern (sewing)</span> Template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before being cut out

In sewing and fashion design, a pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. The process of making or cutting patterns is sometimes compounded to the one-word Patternmaking, but it can also be written pattern(-)making or pattern cutting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bias tape</span> Strip of fabric cut on the bias

Bias tape or bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric, typically plain weave, cut on the bias. As the weave of fabric is at a 45 degree angle, the resulting fabric strip is stretchier than a strip cut on the grain. The strip also has a better drape, and conforms to curves better than fabric cut on the grain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buttonhole</span> Reinforced opening in fabric

A buttonhole is a reinforced hole in fabric that a button can pass through, allowing one piece of fabric to be secured to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a frog, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tack (sewing)</span>

In sewing, to tack or baste is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment. Tacking is typically sewn using a specialised tacking thread, which may snap easily in order for it to be easily removed from the garment when necessary.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seam allowance</span> Area between the fabric edge and stitching line on materials being sewn together

Seam allowance is the area between the fabric edge and the stitching line on two pieces of material being sewn together. Seam allowances can range from 14 inch (6.4 mm) wide to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 14 to 58 inch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pleat</span> Deliberate fold in the design of a textile object or garment

A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Selvage</span> Narrow edge of a woven fabric parallel to its length

A selvage or selvedge is a "self-finished" edge of a piece of fabric which keeps it from unraveling and fraying. The term "self-finished" means that the edge does not require additional finishing work, such as hem or bias tape, to prevent fraying.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Princess seams</span> Type of garment seam

Princess seams are long rounded seams sewn into women's blouses or shirts to add shaping or a tailored fit to closely follow a woman's shape. They are a dart variation that is sewn into the front or back of a shirt that extends from the waist up to the shoulder seam or armscye. Princess seams are distinct from darts in that they form a continuous line and are a full seam. Darts, on the other hand, are folds sewn into the clothing to shape the resultant garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dart (sewing)</span> A pointed fold used in sewing

Darts are folds sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman's bust. They are used frequently in all sorts of clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer's shape, or to make an innovative shape in the garment. Fabric may be thought of as flat, and a dart has the effect of removing a wedge shaped piece and pulling the edges of that wedge together to create a shallow cone. This effect can be seen quite easily with a paper pattern by pulling together the edges of a dart intake as it would be sewn. Since fabric is generally more flexible than paper, the fabric will shift around the apex of the cone and form a softer, but still curved, shape. In a garment, a dart ends in a point at a full area of the body.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lining (sewing)</span> Inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material

In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing, hats, luggage, curtains, handbags and similar items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Facing (sewing)</span>

In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the garment fabric itself, used to finish the fabric edges. This is distinguished from hemming which simply folds the edge over; facing is a more substantial layer of additional fabric added to the edges of the garment. The facing adds addition support, strength and prevents stretching. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes, hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items like curtain hems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coverstitch</span> Kind of stitch

A coverstitch is formed by two or more needles which add straight stitches to one side of the fabric and a looper thread on the opposite side of the fabric that zig-zags between the straight stitches. A coverstitch results in parallel lines of straight stitches on one side of the fabric and an overcast stitch on the reverse side. It is widely used in garment construction, particularly for attaching trims and flat seaming where the raw edges can be finished in the same operation as forming the seam.

References