Buttonhole

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Machine-stitched keyhole buttonhole with bar Keyhole buttonhole.jpg
Machine-stitched keyhole buttonhole with bar

A buttonhole is a reinforced hole in fabric that a button can pass through, allowing one piece of fabric to be secured to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a frog, use a loop of cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole. [1]

Contents

The term buttonhole can also refer to a flower worn in the lapel buttonhole of a coat or jacket, which is referred to simply as a "buttonhole" or "boutonnière". [2]

History

Buttonholes for fastening or closing clothing with buttons appeared first in Germany during the 13th century. However, it is believed that ancient Persians used them first. [3] They soon became widespread with the rise of snug-fitting garments in 13th- and 14th-century Europe.[ citation needed ]

Aspects of buttonholes

Buttonholes often have a bar of stitches at either side of them. This is a row of perpendicular hand or machine stitching to reinforce the raw edges of the fabric, and to prevent it from fraying. [4]

Traditionally, men's clothing buttonholes are on the left side, and women's clothing buttonholes are on the right. [5] The lore of this 'opposite' sides buttoning is that the practice came into being as 'women of means' had chamber maids who dressed them. So as not to confuse the poor chamber maids, the wealthy began having women's garments made with the buttons and holes 'switched'; the birth of the modern ladies' blouse. The chamber maids themselves, as did most all the common class, both male and female, actually wore 'shirts' with buttons and holes placed as on men's clothing. There appears to be no concrete reference to prove or disprove this story, but its plausibility bears noting. [6] [7]

Types of buttonholes

A machine-made buttonhole. Plain buttonhole.jpeg
A machine-made buttonhole.
A bound buttonhole. The inset fabric panels are called welts. Bound buttonhole.jpg
A bound buttonhole. The inset fabric panels are called welts.

Hand stitching

Machined stitching

Sewing machines offer various levels of automation to creating plain buttonholes. When made by machine, the slit between the sides of the buttonhole is opened after the stitching is completed. [11]

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing machine</span> Machine used to stitch fabric

A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lockstitch</span> Stitch made by sewing machines

A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing machine. The term "single needle stitching", often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Button</span> Small fastener

A button is a fastener that joins two pieces of fabric together by slipping through a loop or by sliding through a buttonhole.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Suit</span> Western business attire of matching jacket and trousers

A suit, lounge suit, or business suit is a set of clothes comprising a suit jacket and trousers of identical textiles generally worn with a collared dress shirt, necktie, and dress shoes. A skirt suit is similar, but with a matching skirt instead of trousers. It is currently considered semi-formal wear or business wear in contemporary Western dress codes, however when the suit was originally developed it was considered an informal or more casual option compared to the prevailing clothing standards of aristocrats and businessmen. The lounge suit originated in 19th-century Britain as sportswear and British country clothing, which is why it was seen as more casual than citywear at that time, with the roots of the suit coming from early modern Western Europe formal court or military clothes. After replacing the black frock coat in the early 20th century as regular daywear, a sober one-coloured suit became known as a lounge suit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hem</span> Garment finishing method

A hem in sewing is a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric and to adjust the length of the piece in garments, such as at the end of the sleeve or the bottom of the garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Trim (sewing)</span> Ornaments in sewing

Trim or trimming in clothing and home decorating is applied ornament, such as gimp, passementerie, ribbon, Ruffle (sewing)s, or, as a verb, to apply such ornament.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Collar (clothing)</span> Shaped neckwear that fastens around or frames the neck

In clothing, a collar is the part of a shirt, dress, coat or blouse that fastens around or frames the neck. Among clothing construction professionals, a collar is differentiated from other necklines such as revers and lapels, by being made from a separate piece of fabric, rather than a folded or cut part of the same piece of fabric used for the main body of the garment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Single-breasted</span> Style of jacket

A single-breasted garment is a coat, jacket, vest, or similar item having one column of buttons and a narrow overlap of fabric. In contrast, a double-breasted coat has a wider overlap and two parallel rows of buttons. Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons, and a notch lapel. However, from the 1930s onwards, peaked lapels on a single button jacket have been variably in fashion. The width of the lapels is one of the most changeable aspects of the jacket, and narrow peak lapels on single-breasted jackets became popular during the 2000s.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Double-breasted</span> Style of jacket

A double-breasted garment is a coat, jacket, waistcoat, or dress with wide, overlapping front flaps which has on its front two symmetrical columns of buttons; by contrast, a single-breasted item has a narrow overlap and only one column of buttons.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shank (sewing)</span>

A shank is a device for providing a small amount of space in between a garment and a button. Shanks are necessary to provide space for fabric to sit in between the button and the garment when the garment is buttoned. Shanks also allow a garment to hang and drape nicely.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tack (sewing)</span>

In sewing, to tack or baste is to sew quick, temporary stitches that will later be removed. Tacking is used for a variety of reasons, such as holding a seam in place until it is sewn properly, or transferring pattern markings onto the garment. Tacking is typically sewn using a specialised tacking thread, which may snap easily in order for it to be easily removed from the garment when necessary.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Placket</span> Opening in the upper part of certain clothing

A placket is a finished opening in the upper part of trousers or skirts, or at the neck, front, or sleeve of a garment. The finish frequently consists of a fold of fabric that is attached to the opening in order for the fasteners to be sewn to it. In modern usage, the term placket often refers to these double layers of fabric.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lapel</span> Two flaps of material turned back on the chest, especially a continuation of a coat collar

Lapels are the folded flaps of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat below the collar and are most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually they are formed by folding over the front edges of the jacket or coat and sewing them to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck.

Self-fabric, in sewing, is a fabric piece or embellishment made from the same fabric as the main fabric, as opposed to contrast fabric.

Sewing is the craft of fastening or attaching objects using stitches made with needle and thread. Sewing is one of the oldest of the textile arts, arising in the Paleolithic Era. Although usually associated with clothing and household linens, sewing is used in a variety of crafts and industries, including shoemaking, upholstery, sailmaking, bookbinding and the manufacturing of some kinds of sporting goods. Sewing is the fundamental process underlying a variety of textile arts and crafts, including embroidery, tapestry, quilting, appliqué and patchwork.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seam (sewing)</span> Sewn join between two pieces of textile material

In sewing, a seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches. Prior to the invention of the sewing machine, all sewing was done by hand. Seams in modern mass-produced household textiles, sporting goods, and ready-to-wear clothing are sewn by computerized machines, while home shoemaking, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lining (sewing)</span> Inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material

In sewing and tailoring, a lining is an inner layer of fabric, fur, or other material inserted into clothing, hats, luggage, curtains, handbags and similar items.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pick stitch</span>

A pick stitch in sewing is a simple running stitch that catches only a few threads of the fabric, showing very little of the thread on the right side of the garment. It is also sometimes known as "stab stitch".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Suit jacket</span> Mans coat worn with a business or lounge suit

A suit jacket, also called a lounge jacket, lounge coat or suit coat, is a jacket in classic menswear that is part of a suit.

References

Citations

  1. Shaeffer 2007, pp. 91–93.
  2. Boyana, Ivanova (30 March 2018). "The lapel buttonhole - purpose, history and usage". Be Global Fashion Network. Fashion.bg Ltd. Retrieved 1 April 2019.
  3. White, Lynn (Autumn 1962). "The Act of Invention: Causes, Contexts, Continuities and Consequences". Technology and Culture. The Johns Hopkins University Press and the Society for the History of Technology. 3 (4): 486–500. doi:10.2307/3100999. JSTOR   3100999.
  4. Singer 2005, pp. 138–9.
  5. Shaeffer 1981, p. 144.
  6. Finney, Lauren (13 July 2016). "Here's why men's and women's shirts button on the opposite sides". Today. NBC Universal. Retrieved 1 April 2019.
  7. Turk, Victoria (25 March 2016). "Right for Men, Left for Women: Why Are Gendered Buttons Still a Thing?". Motherboard. Vice Media LLC. Retrieved 1 April 2019.
  8. Whitlock & Phillips 1922, pp. 22–26.
  9. Shaeffer 2007, p. 89.
  10. Zottolo, Peter (19 July 2017). "The Milanese Buttonhole: Beautifully Unnecessary". The Styleforum Journal. Retrieved 4 September 2017.
  11. Singer 2005, p. 139.
  12. 1 2 Singer 2005, p. 138.
  13. Gregory, Martin (March 2012). "The House Brothers and their contribution to the sewing machine". ISMACS News. No. 106. International Sewing Machine Collectors Society. Retrieved 1 April 2019.
  14. Shaeffer 1981, pp. 144–152.
  15. Whitlock & Phillips 1922, pp. 26–28.
  16. Whitlock & Phillips 1922, p. 23.

Bibliography