Hinterer Bratschenkopf | |
---|---|
Highest point | |
Elevation | 3,413 m (AA) (11,198 ft) |
Coordinates | 47°09′07″N12°34′09″E / 47.15194°N 12.56917°E |
Geography | |
Parent range | Hohe Tauern, Glockner Group, Fusch/Kaprun Crest |
Geology | |
Mountain type | calc-schist, Bratschen |
Climbing | |
First ascent | 18 September 1869 by Karl Hofmann, Johann Stüdl and mountain guides, Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell |
Easiest route | from the Heinrich Schwaiger Haus over the Kaindlgrat, the Wielingerscharte and the northeast flank to the summit |
The Hinterer Bratschenkopf is a mountain in the Glockner Group on the Fusch-Kaprun ridge (Fuscher / Kapruner Kamm) in the High Tauern, a high mountain range in the Austrian Central Alps. According to the listed sources it is 3,412 metres high, but the Austrian Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives its height as 3,413 metres. The mountain lies in the Austrian state of Salzburg. It appears from the north, east and south as a gently curved firn summit, but from the west it has a mighty, 1,400-metre-high (4,600 ft) and 40 to 60° rock face. A steep, 500-metre-long (1,600 ft) knife-edge ridge bears away from the mountaintop to the north. Due to its close proximity to the Heinrich Schwaiger Haus, the summit is a popular viewing point. The peak was first climbed on 18 September 1869 by the Munich Alpinist, Karl Hofmann, the Prague businessman, Johann Stüdl, and mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner. [1]
The name "Hinterer Bratschenkopf" was given to the mountain in 1871 on the recommendation of the Imperial and Royal Austrian survey officer, Major Joseph Pelikan, of Plauenwald. On the old Tauern map by Franz Keil dating to 1855 the peak was still described as the Glockerin, which went back to Karl Sonklar and Johann Stüdl, whilst the peak known today as the Klockerin was still unknown then. The word bratschen in German means the broken piles of calc-schist rock often found at height in the High Tauern.
The names of the surrounding mountains were rather confusing. "Kleiner", "Mittlerer", "Großer" and "Vorderer Bärenkopf" (i.e. "Little", "Middle", "Great" and "Fore") were designations arbitrarily given to different peaks and, in some cases, the same peaks. Not until the 1891 Alpine Club map was issued was there an authoritative allocation of names, that gave a recognised schema for Alpinists and reduced the then common difficulties of orientation and mistakes in climbing and surveying. [2]
The Hinterer Bratschenkopf is ringed by glaciers. To the northeast lies the little Kaindlkees glacier, to the east is the accumulation zone of the Teufelsmühlkees which reaches to just below the summit. To the south lies the Bratschenkopfkees and, in the west, below the mighty West Face, the (Untere) Klockerinkees. Important neighbouring peaks are:
The highest mountain in the area, the Großes Wiesbachhorn (3,564 m), lies away to the northeast. The nearest significant settlement is Fusch an der Großglocknerstraße, just under 11 kilometres to the north as the crow flies. To the northwest the Hinterer Bratschenkopf falls steeply to the dam of the Mooserboden.
The trail blazed by the Alpinists in 1869 runs from the Kaprun side, i.e. from the north, over the glacier saddle with the misleading name of Wielingerscharte ("Wielingen Notch") to the top. This route is still the standard one used today. The Hinterer Bratschenkopf can only be reached as part of a high Alpine tour, and appropriate equipment and glacier experience are necessary. The Heinrich Schwaiger Haus (2,802 m) acts as a base and lies to the east above the Mooserboden valley. From the hut, the trail runs in a southeasterly direction up to the Oberen Fochezkopf (3,159 m), over the firn-covered Kaindlgrat ridge on the upper Wielingerkees glacier, past the foot of the West Ridge of the Wiesbachhorn (Wiesbachhorn-Westgrat), then southwards over the so-called Wielingerscharte to the Bratschenkopfscharte and up to the summit cross of the Hinterer Bratschenkopf. According to the literature, the journey takes about 2 to 3 hours, depending on the conditions. Another option is the easy firn ascent from the southeast. More difficult climbs run from the Schwarzenberg Hut (2,267 m) to the south, over the Hochgruberkees and Bratschenkopfkees as an ice tour up the South Flank with gradients of 40 to 60°. Climbing routes of grade UIAA III run up the steep North Ridge (Nordgrat), a climb of 620 metres. Routes of up to about UIAA grade III+ difficulty and 1,300 metres in height run up the West Face, first conquered in 1928, but there is a high risk there of falling rocks. [3]
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The Eiskögele is a 3,426-metre-high (11,240 ft) mountain in the Glockner Group in the western part of the main Tauern chain, a range of the Austrian Central Alps. It lies right on the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg, Carinthia and East Tyrol and thus forms a tripoint. The mountain has the shape of an ice-covered horn with a mighty North Face, a prominent Northeast Ridge (Nordostgrat) and a sharp firn edge (Firnschneide) to the west. From its base, the Oberwalder Hut, it is easy to reach via the Pasterzeboden glacier. It was first climbed on 30 July 1872 by the tourist B. Lergetporer from Schwaz and mountain guides, Michel Groder and Josef Kerer. The first solo ascent of the mountain was achieved in August 1891 by Ludwig Kohn from Vienna as part of a crossing from the Schneewinkelkopf.
The Fuscherkarkopf, sometimes also written Fuscher-Kar-Kopf in German and formerly also called the Fuschereiskarkopf, is one of the twin peaks of a mountain in the Glockner Group in the centre of the main mountain chain in the High Tauern, a range in the Austrian Central Alps. The mountain lies right on the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg and Carinthia. The main peak is 3,331 metres high, but the northwest summit is only 3,252 metres high. The two peaks are about 500 metres apart and linked by a curved firn-covered ridge. Further sharp, prominent ridges run away to the northwest and west, forming the main crest of the Tauern. To the southwest the Heiligenblut Open Face branches off, a mighty side ridge that starts as the southeast ridge (Südostgrat) at the Fuscherkarkopf. The northwest summit has a great, 650-metre-high (2,130 ft) West Face (Westwand), that used to be covered with firn, but today is covered with loose rock slabs. The mountain is easy to reach from the Hofmanns Hut over the southwest ridge (Südwestgrat) and offers a good view of the Großglockner and the Pasterze. The peak was first climbed in the 1840s by the hunter, Gregor Maier, known as Badhans, from Fusch.
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The Glocknerwand is a mountain in the Glockner Group in the Austrian Central Alps in the central region of the High Tauern. According to the literature it is 3,721 metres high, but the Austria Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives its height as 3,722 metres. It is separated from Austria's highest peak, the neighbouring Großglockner, by the col known as the Untere Glocknerscharte (3596 m). The mountain lies on the boundary between East Tyrol and Carinthia.
The Glocknerhorn and Teufelshorn are two nearby mountain peaks in the Glockner Group in the Austrian Central Alps in the central part of the High Tauern. According to the literature, Teufelshorn is 3,677 metres high. The Austrian Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives Glocknerhorn's elevation as 3,680 metres, but naming it "Teufelshorn" by mistake. Both lie on the Northwest Ridge (Nordwestgrat) of Austria's highest peak, the neighbouring Großglockner, along which the border between the Austrian federal states of Tyrol and Carinthia runs. The lower Teufelshorn in the west has a turret-like summit that juts about 30 metres above the massif itself and, together with the higher and similar-looking Glocknerhorn in the east, forms a twin peak. The Teufelshorn was first climbed on 8 August 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner, guided by Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier. The 3,680-metre-high (12,070 ft) Glocknerhorn, by contrast, had already been conquered on 29 August 1879 by the Alpinists, Gustav Gröger and Christian Ranggetiner.
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The Hoher Tenn, formerly also called the Hochtenn, is a double-peaked mountain in the Austrian federal state of Salzburg. It has a southwest summit, called the Bergspitze with a height of 3,368 metres (11,050 ft), and a northeast summit, the Schneespitze, which is 3,317 metres (10,883 ft) high. The Tenn belongs to the Glockner Group in the central part of the High Tauern in the Austrian Central Alps. Between the two summits at a height of 3,293 metres (10,804 ft) is the Tenn Saddle (Tennsattel). Long knife-edge ridges run away to the northeast and northwest. It has a large topographical prominence, especially to the north, which, together with its easy accessibility, make it a popular climbing mountain. Seen from Zell am See in the Pinzgau it is second only to the Imbachhorn in dominating the Tauern panorama.
The Strahlkogel, at 3,288 m (AA), is the highest peak in the Larstiger Mountains, a subgroup of the Stubai Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol. The Strahlkogel is also the highest mountain in the municipality of Umhausen. Its name comes from its great, white, light-reflecting, quartz layers, which allegedly cause the mountain to "radiate" (strahlen). It has the shape of a well-proportioned, steep and pointed pyramid. Ascending the Strahlkogel is difficult and it is thus only rarely visited, unlike the neighbouring 3,287-metre-high Breiter Grieskogel. The first ascent of the mountain was in 1833 by Peter Carl Thurwieser, but his route and the precise circumstances of the climb have not been passed on. On 28 August 1887 Ludwig Purtscheller and Fritz Drasch from Salzburg climbed the mountain. Their route led along the west arête. Today, this is the normal route and easiest way to reach the summit.
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The Klockerin, formerly also called the Glockerin or Glocknerin, is a twin-peaked mountain in the Glockner Group on the ridge of Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm in the High Tauern, a range within the Central Alps in the Austrian state of Salzburg. Its southwest top (Südwestgipfel) is 3,422 m (AA) high, its northeast top (Nordostgipfel) has a height of 3,335 m. The two summits are about 240 metres apart. A prominent arête runs westwards; the west-northwestern arête is a short, but knife-edge ridge of rock. The Klockerin has a mighty Northwest Face which is 920 metres high and has a gradient of 54°. The mountain is geographically dominant compared with the southern and western neighbouring peaks. Especially from the west, where the Mooserboden Reservoir lies, the Klockerin appears as a mighty massif. The mountain was first climbed on 18 September 1869 by German alpinist, Karl Hofmann, Prague merchant, Johann Stüdl and mountain guides, Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner.
The Wildgall is, at 3,273 metres above sea level, the third highest peak in the Rieserferner Group, a range in the western part of the High Tauern. It lies within the Italian provinces of South Tyrol in the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park and appears from the south as a massive pyramid with prominent arêtes. It is the most difficult of the summits of the Rieserferner Group to climb. As a result, it was conquered relatively late. Its first recorded ascent was on 18 August 1872 by Victor Hecht from Prague and mountain guides Johann and Sepp Ausserhofer from Rein in Taufers. Today the mountain may be climbed from the Kasseler Hut to the north in about four hours, but it is rarely attempted.