Hinterer Bratschenkopf

Last updated
Hinterer Bratschenkopf
HintererBratschenkopf.jpg
The Vorderer (left) and Hinterer Bratschenkopf (middle, with summit cross), with the Klockerin (right), seen from Kaindlgrat to the north
Highest point
Elevation 3,413  m (AA) (11,198 ft)
Coordinates 47°09′07″N12°34′09″E / 47.15194°N 12.56917°E / 47.15194; 12.56917
Geography
Austria relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Hinterer Bratschenkopf
Parent range Hohe Tauern, Glockner Group, Fusch/Kaprun Crest
Geology
Mountain type calc-schist, Bratschen
Climbing
First ascent 18 September 1869 by Karl Hofmann, Johann Stüdl and mountain guides, Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell
Easiest route from the Heinrich Schwaiger Haus over the Kaindlgrat, the Wielingerscharte and the northeast flank to the summit

The Hinterer Bratschenkopf is a mountain in the Glockner Group on the Fusch-Kaprun ridge (Fuscher / Kapruner Kamm) in the High Tauern, a high mountain range in the Austrian Central Alps. According to the listed sources it is 3,412 metres high, but the Austrian Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives its height as 3,413 metres. The mountain lies in the Austrian state of Salzburg. It appears from the north, east and south as a gently curved firn summit, but from the west it has a mighty, 1,400-metre-high (4,600 ft) and 40 to 60° rock face. A steep, 500-metre-long (1,600 ft) knife-edge ridge bears away from the mountaintop to the north. Due to its close proximity to the Heinrich Schwaiger Haus, the summit is a popular viewing point. The peak was first climbed on 18 September 1869 by the Munich Alpinist, Karl Hofmann, the Prague businessman, Johann Stüdl, and mountain guides Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner. [1]

Contents

Origin of the name

The name "Hinterer Bratschenkopf" was given to the mountain in 1871 on the recommendation of the Imperial and Royal Austrian survey officer, Major Joseph Pelikan, of Plauenwald. On the old Tauern map by Franz Keil dating to 1855 the peak was still described as the Glockerin, which went back to Karl Sonklar and Johann Stüdl, whilst the peak known today as the Klockerin was still unknown then. The word bratschen in German means the broken piles of calc-schist rock often found at height in the High Tauern.

1891 Alpine Club map, 1:50.000 series Historische AV-Karte, Fuscher Kamm.jpg
1891 Alpine Club map, 1:50.000 series

The names of the surrounding mountains were rather confusing. "Kleiner", "Mittlerer", "Großer" and "Vorderer Bärenkopf" (i.e. "Little", "Middle", "Great" and "Fore") were designations arbitrarily given to different peaks and, in some cases, the same peaks. Not until the 1891 Alpine Club map was issued was there an authoritative allocation of names, that gave a recognised schema for Alpinists and reduced the then common difficulties of orientation and mistakes in climbing and surveying. [2]

Surrounding area

The Hinterer Bratschenkopf is ringed by glaciers. To the northeast lies the little Kaindlkees glacier, to the east is the accumulation zone of the Teufelsmühlkees which reaches to just below the summit. To the south lies the Bratschenkopfkees and, in the west, below the mighty West Face, the (Untere) Klockerinkees. Important neighbouring peaks are:

The highest mountain in the area, the Großes Wiesbachhorn (3,564 m), lies away to the northeast. The nearest significant settlement is Fusch an der Großglocknerstraße, just under 11 kilometres to the north as the crow flies. To the northwest the Hinterer Bratschenkopf falls steeply to the dam of the Mooserboden.

Bases and tours

The trail blazed by the Alpinists in 1869 runs from the Kaprun side, i.e. from the north, over the glacier saddle with the misleading name of Wielingerscharte ("Wielingen Notch") to the top. This route is still the standard one used today. The Hinterer Bratschenkopf can only be reached as part of a high Alpine tour, and appropriate equipment and glacier experience are necessary. The Heinrich Schwaiger Haus (2,802 m) acts as a base and lies to the east above the Mooserboden valley. From the hut, the trail runs in a southeasterly direction up to the Oberen Fochezkopf (3,159 m), over the firn-covered Kaindlgrat ridge on the upper Wielingerkees glacier, past the foot of the West Ridge of the Wiesbachhorn (Wiesbachhorn-Westgrat), then southwards over the so-called Wielingerscharte to the Bratschenkopfscharte and up to the summit cross of the Hinterer Bratschenkopf. According to the literature, the journey takes about 2 to 3 hours, depending on the conditions. Another option is the easy firn ascent from the southeast. More difficult climbs run from the Schwarzenberg Hut (2,267 m) to the south, over the Hochgruberkees and Bratschenkopfkees as an ice tour up the South Flank with gradients of 40 to 60°. Climbing routes of grade UIAA III run up the steep North Ridge (Nordgrat), a climb of 620 metres. Routes of up to about UIAA grade III+ difficulty and 1,300 metres in height run up the West Face, first conquered in 1928, but there is a high risk there of falling rocks. [3]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Großes Wiesbachhorn</span>

The Großes Wiesbachhorn is a mountain in the federal state of Salzburg, Austria and, at 3,564 m above sea level (AA), is the third-highest peak of the Hohe Tauern range.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Punta San Matteo</span> Mountain in Italy

Punta San Matteo is a secondary peak of Ortler-Vioz in the Ortler Alps, at the border between the Province of Sondrio and Trentino in northern Italy.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dreiherrnspitze</span> Mountain in Italy

The Dreiherrnspitze, at 3,499 m (11,480 ft) above mean sea level, is a mountain on the tripoint between the Austrian states of Salzburg and Tyrol, and South Tyrol in Italy. It is part of the Venediger Group in the Hohe Tauern range of the Central Eastern Alps and the Alpine divide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glockner Group</span>

The Glockner Group is a sub-group of the Austrian Central Alps in the Eastern Alps, and is located in the centre section of the High Tauern on the main chain of the Alps.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kleinglockner</span>

At the height of 3,770 metres (12,370 ft) the Kleinglockner is the third highest mountain summit in Austria. However, with a prominence of only 17 metres it is arguable whether it can be counted as an independent mountain, or just as a subpeak of the Großglockner. It lies in the Glockner Group of Austria's Central Alps, the middle section of the Hohe Tauern. Geographically and geologically speaking, it is viewed a secondary summit of the neighbouring Großglockner, but in the literature, in view of its importance to mountaineering, it is in some cases treated as separate. Its peak forms part of the Glockner crest or ridge (Glocknerkamm) and lies exactly on the border between the Austrian state of Carinthia and Lienz District in the East Tyrol. The Kleinglockner has the shape of a sharp edge, covered with the so-called Glockner Cornice (Glocknerwechte) and, depending on the conditions, can make the ascent of the mountain dangerous to almost impossible. The climbing history of the Kleinglockner is closely linked to that of the Großglockner, because the first climbers, coming from the south and east, had to cross it.

The Eiskögele is a 3,426-metre-high (11,240 ft) mountain in the Glockner Group in the western part of the main Tauern chain, a range of the Austrian Central Alps. It lies right on the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg, Carinthia and East Tyrol and thus forms a tripoint. The mountain has the shape of an ice-covered horn with a mighty North Face, a prominent Northeast Ridge (Nordostgrat) and a sharp firn edge (Firnschneide) to the west. From its base, the Oberwalder Hut, it is easy to reach via the Pasterzeboden glacier. It was first climbed on 30 July 1872 by the tourist B. Lergetporer from Schwaz and mountain guides, Michel Groder and Josef Kerer. The first solo ascent of the mountain was achieved in August 1891 by Ludwig Kohn from Vienna as part of a crossing from the Schneewinkelkopf.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fuscherkarkopf</span>

The Fuscherkarkopf, sometimes also written Fuscher-Kar-Kopf in German and formerly also called the Fuschereiskarkopf, is one of the twin peaks of a mountain in the Glockner Group in the centre of the main mountain chain in the High Tauern, a range in the Austrian Central Alps. The mountain lies right on the border between the Austrian states of Salzburg and Carinthia. The main peak is 3,331 metres high, but the northwest summit is only 3,252 metres high. The two peaks are about 500 metres apart and linked by a curved firn-covered ridge. Further sharp, prominent ridges run away to the northwest and west, forming the main crest of the Tauern. To the southwest the Heiligenblut Open Face branches off, a mighty side ridge that starts as the southeast ridge (Südostgrat) at the Fuscherkarkopf. The northwest summit has a great, 650-metre-high (2,130 ft) West Face (Westwand), that used to be covered with firn, but today is covered with loose rock slabs. The mountain is easy to reach from the Hofmanns Hut over the southwest ridge (Südwestgrat) and offers a good view of the Großglockner and the Pasterze. The peak was first climbed in the 1840s by the hunter, Gregor Maier, known as Badhans, from Fusch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Johannisberg (High Tauern)</span> Mountain in the Glockner Group, Austria

The Johannisberg is a 3,453 metres (11,329 ft) high mountain in the Glockner Group of the High Tauern, a mountain range of the Central Eastern Alps in Austria.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Glocknerwand</span>

The Glocknerwand is a mountain in the Glockner Group in the Austrian Central Alps in the central region of the High Tauern. According to the literature it is 3,721 metres high, but the Austria Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives its height as 3,722 metres. It is separated from Austria's highest peak, the neighbouring Großglockner, by the col known as the Untere Glocknerscharte (3596 m). The mountain lies on the boundary between East Tyrol and Carinthia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Teufelshorn (Glockner Group)</span>

The Glocknerhorn and Teufelshorn are two nearby mountain peaks in the Glockner Group in the Austrian Central Alps in the central part of the High Tauern. According to the literature, Teufelshorn is 3,677 metres high. The Austrian Federal Office for Metrology and Survey gives Glocknerhorn's elevation as 3,680 metres, but naming it "Teufelshorn" by mistake. Both lie on the Northwest Ridge (Nordwestgrat) of Austria's highest peak, the neighbouring Großglockner, along which the border between the Austrian federal states of Tyrol and Carinthia runs. The lower Teufelshorn in the west has a turret-like summit that juts about 30 metres above the massif itself and, together with the higher and similar-looking Glocknerhorn in the east, forms a twin peak. The Teufelshorn was first climbed on 8 August 1884 by Moriz von Kuffner, guided by Christian Ranggetiner and E. Rubesoier. The 3,680-metre-high (12,070 ft) Glocknerhorn, by contrast, had already been conquered on 29 August 1879 by the Alpinists, Gustav Gröger and Christian Ranggetiner.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen</span> Two summitsin the Zillertal Alps, Austria

The Gefrorene-Wand-Spitzen are two summits on the Tux Crest, a mountain chain in the Zillertal Alps, one of the ranges of the central Eastern Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol. The north summit (Nordgipfel) is recorded as 3,286 metres high in the literature, but is 3,288 metres high according to the Federal Office for Metrology and Survey. The south summit (Südgipfel), by contrast, is only 3,270 metres high. The two peaks are about 300 metres apart. They appear from the north as a stubby, cone-shaped, firn-covered dome, but from the east as a forbidding, dark rock face. Sharp, prominent ridges radiate from the peaks to the northeast and southwest, along the main crest of the mountain range. The twin peaks are the highest points in the summer skiing area of the Hintertux Glacier and, since the end of the 1990s, have been accessible from Hintertux on cable cars and ski lifts; which makes them a popular destination for day trippers. The north summit was first conquered in 1867 by Dr. Berreitter, the south summit on 7 September 1872 by brothers Max and Richard von Frey from Salzburg.

The Hoher Tenn, formerly also called the Hochtenn, is a double-peaked mountain in the Austrian federal state of Salzburg. It has a southwest summit, called the Bergspitze with a height of 3,368 metres (11,050 ft), and a northeast summit, the Schneespitze, which is 3,317 metres (10,883 ft) high. The Tenn belongs to the Glockner Group in the central part of the High Tauern in the Austrian Central Alps. Between the two summits at a height of 3,293 metres (10,804 ft) is the Tenn Saddle (Tennsattel). Long knife-edge ridges run away to the northeast and northwest. It has a large topographical prominence, especially to the north, which, together with its easy accessibility, make it a popular climbing mountain. Seen from Zell am See in the Pinzgau it is second only to the Imbachhorn in dominating the Tauern panorama.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Strahlkogel</span>

The Strahlkogel, at 3,288 m (AA), is the highest peak in the Larstiger Mountains, a subgroup of the Stubai Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol. The Strahlkogel is also the highest mountain in the municipality of Umhausen. Its name comes from its great, white, light-reflecting, quartz layers, which allegedly cause the mountain to "radiate" (strahlen). It has the shape of a well-proportioned, steep and pointed pyramid. Ascending the Strahlkogel is difficult and it is thus only rarely visited, unlike the neighbouring 3,287-metre-high Breiter Grieskogel. The first ascent of the mountain was in 1833 by Peter Carl Thurwieser, but his route and the precise circumstances of the climb have not been passed on. On 28 August 1887 Ludwig Purtscheller and Fritz Drasch from Salzburg climbed the mountain. Their route led along the west arête. Today, this is the normal route and easiest way to reach the summit.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Hoher Eichham</span>

The Hoher Eichham, at 3,371 m (AA), is the most dominant mountain in the southeastern part of the Venediger Group in the High Tauern in Austria. Four arêtes radiate from its summit towards the north, east, south and southwest. To the southeast is the glacier of Nilkees and, to the northeast, is the Hexenkees. The Großer Eichhamkees to the northwest and the Kleiner Eichhamkees to the southwest have shrunk to insignificant slabs of ice. On the North Arête is a rock tower, the Eichhamturm. Along the continuation of the arête lies the Großer Hexenkopf, which is roughly 600 metres as the crow flies from the Hoher Eichham. On the East Arête is the Niederer Eichham. From this subpeak a ridge branches southeast linking it with the Sailkopf; the lowest notch on this arête being the Sailscharte. The Hoher Eichham may have first been climbed during a military survey using triangulation in the 1850s. The first visit to the summit by tourists was on 16 July 1887 by Berlin alpinists, Carl Benzien and Hermann Meynow using the South Arête. They were led by the Zillertal mountain guide, Hans Hörhager, from Dornauberg.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Großer Bärenkopf</span>

The Große Bärenkopf or Weißer Bärenkopf is a twin-topped mountain in the Glockner Group in the Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm of the High Tauern, a range in the Austrian Central Alps. The mountain lies exactly on the border between the states of Salzburg and Carinthia.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Großer Geiger</span>

The Großer Geiger, formerly also called the Obersulzbacher Venediger and Heiliggeistkogel, is a mountain, 3,360 m (AA), in the Venediger Group in the main chain of the Central Tauern. This chain lies in the High Tauern, part of the Austrian Central Alps on the border between the Austrian states of Tyrol in the south and Salzburg in the north.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Schlieferspitze</span>

The Schlieferspitze is a mountain, 3,290 m (AA), on the ridge known as the Krimmler Kamm in the Venediger Group of the Alps. The ridge lies in the northwest of the High Tauern, part of the Austrian Central Alps in the Austrian federal state of Salzburg. The summit is the highest on the Krimmler Kamm and is described in the sources as one of the most attractive peaks in the Venediger Group. From the valleys of the Krimmler Achental to the southwest and the Obersulzbachtal to the northeast it appears as an extremely dominant mountain. Long and evenly formed arêtes, about two kilometres long, run from the summit to the northwest, northeast, southeast and southwest. The mountain was first ascended on 22 August 1871 by Eduard Richter, professor of geography at the University of Graz, and Johann Stüdl, a merchant from Prague and co-founder of the German Alpine Club.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Simonyspitzen</span>

The Simonyspitzen are two mountain summits in the Venediger Group of the Austrian Central Alps. They lie within the High Tauern National Park on the border between the Austrian states of East Tyrol and Salzburg.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Klockerin</span>

The Klockerin, formerly also called the Glockerin or Glocknerin, is a twin-peaked mountain in the Glockner Group on the ridge of Fuscher/Kapruner Kamm in the High Tauern, a range within the Central Alps in the Austrian state of Salzburg. Its southwest top (Südwestgipfel) is 3,422 m (AA) high, its northeast top (Nordostgipfel) has a height of 3,335 m. The two summits are about 240 metres apart. A prominent arête runs westwards; the west-northwestern arête is a short, but knife-edge ridge of rock. The Klockerin has a mighty Northwest Face which is 920 metres high and has a gradient of 54°. The mountain is geographically dominant compared with the southern and western neighbouring peaks. Especially from the west, where the Mooserboden Reservoir lies, the Klockerin appears as a mighty massif. The mountain was first climbed on 18 September 1869 by German alpinist, Karl Hofmann, Prague merchant, Johann Stüdl and mountain guides, Thomas Groder and Josef Schnell from Kals am Großglockner.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wildgall</span> Mountain in Italy

The Wildgall is, at 3,273 metres above sea level, the third highest peak in the Rieserferner Group, a range in the western part of the High Tauern. It lies within the Italian provinces of South Tyrol in the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park and appears from the south as a massive pyramid with prominent arêtes. It is the most difficult of the summits of the Rieserferner Group to climb. As a result, it was conquered relatively late. Its first recorded ascent was on 18 August 1872 by Victor Hecht from Prague and mountain guides Johann and Sepp Ausserhofer from Rein in Taufers. Today the mountain may be climbed from the Kasseler Hut to the north in about four hours, but it is rarely attempted.

References

  1. Zeitschrift des Deutschen und Oesterreichischen Alpenvereins, Band III, Munich 1872, p. 68
  2. Eduard Richter: Die Erschließung der Ostalpen, Vol. III, Berlin 1894, p. 202 ff.
  3. Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe, Munich, 2003, p. 426 ff., Rz1570 ff.

Sources and maps