Jay Rayner | |
---|---|
![]() Rayner in 2019 | |
Born | Brent, London, England | 14 September 1966
Alma mater | University of Leeds |
Occupation(s) | Broadcaster, writer, journalist, food critic |
Years active | 1988–present |
Employers | |
Spouse | Pat Gordon-Smith |
Children | 2 |
Mother | Claire Rayner |
Awards | British Press Awards |
Jay Rayner (born 14 September 1966) is an English journalist and food critic. After editing the Leeds Student newspaper while at university, he spent time at the The Observer , The Independent on Sunday , and The Mail on Sunday before returning to The Observer in 1996. He became a restaurant critic in 1999 and developed a reputation for acerbity in his columns, with several going viral including a takedown of Paris restaurant Le Cinq. Rayner has also been published in Esquire, Granta and Cosmopolitan, the last as a sex columnist. He left The Observer in 2025 and is currently working at the Financial Times .
Rayner has also published numerous books including a book about the 1947 BSAA Avro Lancastrian Star Dust accident, three compendiums of his columns, several works of fiction, and several works about food including a cookbook. Outside of writing, he has presented The Kitchen Cabinet and the Out to Lunch podcast and has judged numerous cooking shows for numerous broadcasters including MasterChef . His sour demeanour on that medium earned him the epithet "Acid Rayner". In 2012, he founded a jazz band, the Jay Rayner Quartet, which changed its name to the Jay Rayner Sextet in 2022.
Rayner was born in the London Borough of Brent [1] on 14 September 1966 [2] to actor Desmond Rayner [3] and journalist Claire Rayner, [4] and was raised in Harrow on the Hill, London. [5] He and his brother and sister [6] are of Jewish descent, [4] though he is non-observant. [7] Rayner attended the independent Haberdashers' Aske's Boys' School and attracted headlines after being suspended in May 1983 for smoking cannabis. [6] [3] He was inspired to become a writer aged 14 by the Daily Mail miscellany column Dermot Purgavie's America [8] and studied politics at the University of Leeds, where he was editor of the Leeds Student newspaper, [9] having selected the university with the intention of holding the post. [8] While there, he met Pat Gordon-Smith, whom he subsequently married. [10]
After graduating in 1988, [1] Rayner spent as a year editing a tabloid student newspaper before being hired as a researcher by The Observer , [8] a Sunday magazine then owned by The Guardian newspaper. [11] He spent a few months there as its diary columnist, [8] once making the front page of The Observer's arts section with an interview with Sammy Davis Jr., [12] before spending a few years working freelance and for other newspapers [8] including the Independent on Sunday [13] and the Night and Day supplement of The Mail on Sunday . [14] [15] Among his works during this period was an Esquire piece co-written with Gordon-Smith about their fertility troubles. [16] He also spent time as a sex columnist for Cosmopolitan [17] before returning to The Observer in 1996 as a generalist. [8]
Rayner contributed a piece for Granta 65 about Shirley Porter in March 1999. [18] That month, after deciding to develop a specialism, [19] and about three seconds after being told by The Observer's editor that Kathryn Flett would no longer be its restaurant critic, Rayner offered himself for the job, and got it. [20] His reviews were described by The New Yorker in 2014 "sometimes incendiary, often crass, always cheeky" [21] and by the Radio Times in 2016 as "providing a dyspeptic counter-note to the custard sweetness of Nigel Slater’s cookery pages". [6] He went viral in October 2014 for his review of Beast in London [21] and made international headlines for a scathing April 2017 review of the Paris restaurant Le Cinq , [22] shortly after which he was described as "the world's most feared food critic". [23] He stated in 2018 that around a fifth of his reviews were negative. [24]
During the COVID-19 pandemic, when many restaurants were forced to close, Rayner announced he would no longer publish reviews if he could not be generally positive about them. [25] He resumed the following year after objecting to the cost of a Polo Lounge popup at the Dorchester Hotel. [26] In November 2024, Sky News described him as "arguably The Observer's highest-profile writer". [27] That month, Rayner announced his departure from The Observer for the Financial Times , citing The Observer's pending sale to Tortoise Media, [7] the antisemitism of some Guardian staff, [11] and The Observer's online opinion section "too often" being a "juvenile hellscape of salami-sliced identity politics"; [28] he transferred in March 2025. [29] [30]
In 1994, Rayner published his debut book The Marble Kiss, an art history-based romance thriller based in Florence. The book had been researched via a trip to Italy funded by a £5,000 Cecil King travel bursary he had won for being named Young Journalist of the Year at the British Press Awards. [31] A subsequent novel, 1998's Day of Atonement, was shortlisted for the Jewish Quarterly Prize for Fiction [32] and republished as an e-book in 2015 to coincide with Rosh Hashanah, [33] and was followed in 2002 by Star Dust Falling, a book about the 1947 BSAA Avro Lancastrian Star Dust accident. [34] He then published The Apologist in 2004, about a fat, sexually incompetent journalist who becomes chief apologist for the United Nations, [35] followed by The Oyster House Siege in 2007, about two burglars holding up a restaurant in Jermyn Street the day before the 1983 United Kingdom general election. [36]
- Thou shalt eat with thy hands
- Thou shalt always worship leftovers
- Thou shalt covet thy neighbour's oxen
- Thou shalt cook—sometimes
- Thou shalt not cut off the fat
- Thou shalt choose thy dining companion bloody carefully
- Thou shalt not sneer at meat-free cookery
- Thou shalt celebrate the stinky
- Thou shalt not mistake food for pharmaceuticals
- Honour thy pig
Rayner's subsequent books were about food: The Man Who Ate the World (2008) comprised a year of experiences at Michelin starred restaurants in Las Vegas, Moscow, Dubai, Tokyo, New York, London, and Paris; [38] A Greedy Man In a Hungry World (2014) was about food sustainability; [39] The Ten (Food) Commandments (2016) comprised ten food laws he exhorted readers to observe; [40] My Last Supper (2019) used the question of his last meal to explore his food past; [12] and Nights Out at Home (2024) was a cookbook based on meals that had impressed him. [41] He has also published the compilations My Dining Hell: Twenty Ways to Have a Lousy Night Out (2012) and Wasted Calories and Ruined Nights (2018), which each featured 20 of his negative restaurant reviews, [42] [24] and Chewing the Fat (2021), which comprised 40 [43] of his earlier columns. [26]
Rayner also presented nearly 200 films for The One Show between 2009 and 2016. [44] [6] He also presented BBC Radio 4's The Food Quiz [45] and the station's food panel programme The Kitchen Cabinet ; by 2023, the latter was airing its 40th series. [46] In March 2019, he began presenting Out to Lunch, [47] a podcast created by The Kitchen Cabinet co-producer Jez Nelson. [48] Most episodes featured Rayner inviting a guest out to a restaurant of his choosing, although some episodes filmed during the COVID-19 pandemic were filmed remotely using takeaways and retitled In for Lunch. [49] Adrian Edmondson took over the podcast in October 2023. [50] Rayner also periodically appeared as a critic on episodes of the UK version of MasterChef and won its 2023 Battle of the Critics edition, for which he won a gold trophy shaped like a knife and fork. [51] The latter was his idea, as he felt readers of Nights Out at Home would not believe his recipes were his. [52] He has also judged the BBC Two series Eating With the Enemy, [53] the first two series of the American show Top Chef Masters, [54] and the Channel 4 series Tried and Tasted. [55] His sour television demeanour earned him the sobriquet "Acid Rayner". [56]
In 2011, Rayner won the Beard Liberation Front's Beard of the Year, beating Brian Blessed into second place. [57] The following year, he was listed at No. 90 on the Independent's Twitter 100, a listing of the most influential users of that platform, [58] and founded the Jay Rayner Quartet, a jazz band. [59] Initially comprising himself on piano, Gordon-Smith on vocals, Rob Rickenberg on double bass, and Dave Lewis on saxophone, [60] the band were hired from people he had met at a private members club he used to jam at. [10] In September 2017, the quartet released a live album, A Night of Food and Agony, which had been recorded at Crazy Coqs [61] in London. [62] Drummer Sophie Alloway and guitarist Chris Cobbson joined the band in 2022, at which point it changed its name to the Jay Rayner Sextet; subsequent performances incorporated pop tracks from the 1980s. [63]
Title | Year | Role | Network |
---|---|---|---|
Paper Talk | 1996–1998 | Presenter | BBC Radio 5 Live |
The Food Quiz | 2003–2005 | Presenter | BBC Radio 4 |
Masterchef | 2007–present | Critic | BBC One/BBC Two |
Eating With the Enemy | 2008 | Judge | BBC Two |
Top Chef Masters | 2009–2010 | Judge | Bravo |
Great British Waste Menu | 2010 | Judge | BBC Two |
Jewish Mum of the Year | 2012 (1 episode) | Judge | Channel 4 |
Tried and Tasted | 2017 | Judge | Channel 4 |
The Final Table | 2018 (1 episode) | Judge | Netflix |
The World Cook | 2022 (1 episode) | Judge | Amazon Prime |