Lobuche

Last updated

Lobuche East
Lobuje
Lobuche East Peak.jpg
Lobuche East from the southeast
Highest point
Elevation West: 6,145 m (20,161 ft)
East: 6,119 m (20,075 ft) [1]
Prominence 275 m (902 ft)  OOjs UI icon edit-ltr-progressive.svg
Coordinates 27°57′34.2″N86°47′23.8″E / 27.959500°N 86.789944°E / 27.959500; 86.789944 Coordinates: 27°57′34.2″N86°47′23.8″E / 27.959500°N 86.789944°E / 27.959500; 86.789944
Geography
Nepal rel location map.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Lobuche East
Location in Nepal
Location Khumbu, Nepal
Parent range Himalayas
Climbing
First ascent April 25, 1984
Easiest route Scramble/Rock/Snow Climb

Lobuche (also spelt Lobuje) is a Nepalese mountain which lies close to the Khumbu Glacier and the settlement of Lobuche. There are two main peaks, Lobuche East and Lobuche West. A permit to climb the mountain is required from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA), which classifies Lobuche East (6,119m) as a "trekking peak" and Lobuche West (6,145m) as an "expedition peak". As the easier, trekking peak, the East peak is climbed far more frequently than the West peak; however, most of those climbers only do so to a false summit a few hours from the true summit of Lobuche East. Between the two peaks is a long, deeply notched ridge, though a steep drop and considerable distance makes approaching the West peak from the East impossible. [2]

Contents

The first recorded ascent of Lobuche East was made by Laurence Nielson and Sherpa Ang Gyalzen on April 25, 1984. [1]

Lobuje West was first climbed in 1955 via the South Shoulder.

Name Confusion

Many of the tourist operators offering treks and climbs to Lobuje refer to the two peaks as "Lobuche East" and "Lobuche Far East". The NMA - who own the mountain - however, refer to them as Lobuche West and Lobuche East.

Lobuche East from the northeast Lobuche East Peak from Kalapatthar.jpg
Lobuche East from the northeast
Lobuche East's northeast face route, "Talking About Tsampa" Lobuche East's northeast face "Talking About Tsampa".jpg
Lobuche East's northeast face route, "Talking About Tsampa"
The southwest pillar of Lobuche East (6,090m), showing (1) Hiding in Plain Sight (2017), probably similar to the 1995 Spanish route; (2) 2018 French route, Le Quatuor a Cordes. (3) 1991 American-Nepalese Route. (Credit:Steve Fortune) Lobuche East south face routes aaj-13201215082-1564087972.jpg
The southwest pillar of Lobuche East (6,090m), showing (1) Hiding in Plain Sight (2017), probably similar to the 1995 Spanish route; (2) 2018 French route, Le Quatuor à Cordes. (3) 1991 American-Nepalese Route. (Credit:Steve Fortune)

Notable Ascents

In 1998, from September 29 to October 1, Slovenians Tomaž Humar and Janez Jeglič and Spaniard Carlos Carsolio climbed a new route on Lobuche East's northeast face in Alpine style. They named the route "Talking About Tsampa" (V-VI, 5.9, WI4, 85°, 900m).

Along the strikingly prominent southwestern pillar of Lobuche East, several routes have been completed. On a 1991 expedition, Eric Brand and Pemba Norbu used fixed ropes to climb the west pillar to the northwest summit (VI, 5.10, A3). [3] In 1995, Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez also climbed the west pillar by a 6b+ route with one aid pitch. [3] They intersected with the Brand-Norbu route halfway up. In 2010, Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer climbed a new route on the southwest face of Lobuje East (6119m) in Nepal's Khumbu region on October 30th. They established "Night Terrors" (VI, WI5+, AI4, M7, 85°) in a 37-hour push from advance base camp to the summit, and then descended to base camp via the normal route (south spur).

In 2010, Antonin Cecchini, Laurent Thévenot, Aurélien Vaissière, and Symon Welfringer arrived at Dzongla village and started climbing a route similar to the one used for the 1995 Spanish ascent (by Miguel-Miranda-Sanchez), which took them two long days to complete, after which they traversed from the true summit towards the false summit and then descended the mountain, reaching Dzongla by midnight (the descent took 5 and a half hours). They named the route "Le Quatuor à Cordes" (6b, A2, M4, 80°, 1,100m). [4]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Makalu</span> Eight-thousander and 5th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,481 metres (27,825 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, in Nepal. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak in the shape of a four-sided pyramid.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cho Oyu</span> 6th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Cho Oyu is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China Tibet–Nepal Province No. 1 border.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dhaulagiri</span> Eight-thousander and 7th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world at 8,167 metres (26,795 ft) above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country (Nepal). It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I is 34 km (21 mi) east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Manaslu</span> Eight-thousander and 8th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal

Manaslu is the eighth-highest mountain in the world at 8,163 metres (26,781 ft) above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. The name Manaslu means "mountain of the spirit" and is derived from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that, given the many unsuccessful attempts by the British to climb Everest before New Zealander Edmund Hillary, "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pumori</span> Mountain in the Himalayan range, located in Nepal and China

Pumori is a mountain on the Nepal-China border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. Pumori lies just eight kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, meaning "the Mountain Daughter" in Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory. "Pumo" means young girl or daughter and "Ri" means mountain in Sherpa language. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter". Mallory also called it Clare Peak, after his daughter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tengboche</span> Place in Province No. 1, Nepal

Tengboche is a village in Khumbu Pasanglhamu rural municipality in the Khumbu subregion of Province No. 1 in Nepal, located at 3,867 metres (12,687 ft). In the village is an important Buddhist monastery, Tengboche Monastery, which is the largest gompa in the Khumbu region. The structure was built in 1923. In 1934, it was destroyed by an earthquake but subsequently rebuilt. It was destroyed again by a fire in 1989, and again rebuilt with the help of volunteers and the provision of foreign aid. Tengboche has a panoramic view of the Himalayan mountains, including the well-known peaks of Tawache, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. Tenzing Norgay, the first man to reach the summit of Mount Everest with Sir Edmund Hillary, was born in the area in the village of Thani and was once sent to Tengboche Monastery to be a monk.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gaurishankar</span> Mountain in the Nepal Himalayas

Gaurishankar is a mountain in the Nepal Himalayas, the second highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal, behind Melungtse (7,181m). The name comes from the Hindu goddess Gauri, a manifestation of Parvati, and her consort Shankar, denoting the sacred regard to which it is afforded it by the people of Nepal. The Sherpas name the mountain as Jomo Tseringma. The Nepal Standard Time (GMT+05:45) is based on the meridian of this mountain peak.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kusum Kanguru</span> Mountain in Nepal

Kusum Kanguru is a mountain in the Khumbu Region of the Himalaya in Nepal. Its name, Kusum Kanguru, means "Three Snow-White Gods" in the Sherpa language, which refers to the triple summit of the mountain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cholatse</span> Mountain in Khumbu, Nepal

Cholatse is a mountain in the Khumbu region of the Nepalese Himalaya. Cholatse is connected to Taboche (6,501m) by a long ridge. The Chola glacier descends off the east face. The north and east faces of Cholatse can be seen from Dughla, on the trail to Mount Everest base camp.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mera Peak</span> Mountain peak in Nepal

Mera Peak is a mountain in the Mahalangur section, Barun sub-section of the Himalaya and administratively in Nepal's Sagarmatha Zone, Sankhuwasabha. At 6,476 metres (21,247 ft) it is classified as a trekking peak. It contains three main summits: Mera North, 6,476 metres (21,247 ft); Mera Central, 6,461 metres (21,198 ft); and Mera South, 6,065 metres (19,898 ft), as well as a smaller "trekking summit", visible as a distinct summit from the south but not marked on most maps of the region.

Steve House is an American professional climber and mountain guide.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Piolet d'Or</span> International mountaineering award

The Piolet d'Or is an annual mountaineering and alpine climbing award organized by the Groupe de Haute Montagne (GHM), and previously with co-founder Montagnes Magazine, since its founding in 1992. Golden ice axes are presented to the annual winners at a weekend awards festival based on their achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor and is referred to as the "Oscars of mountaineering".

Wojciech Kurtyka is a Polish mountaineer and rock climber, one of the pioneers of the alpine style of climbing the biggest walls in the Greater Ranges. He lived in Wrocław up to 1974 when he moved to Kraków. He graduated as engineer in electronics. In 1985 he climbed the "Shining Wall," the west face of Gasherbrum IV, which Climbing magazine declared to be the greatest achievement of mountaineering in the twentieth century. In 2016, he received the Piolet d'Or for lifetime achievement in mountaineering.

Richard Pattison is a climber from Northumberland in Great Britain, who resides in Sydney, Australia. He became well known in Northumberland after summitting Everest in 2009, which created front page headlines in the local newspaper "The Journal". The Everest summit also attracted further media attention from BBC Look-North, BBC Radio Newcastle and marketing for the Northumberland County Council. He writes a blog on "The Journal" website. He is working with Melisa Ang as a consultant and claims that she is his biggest inspiration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lobuche, Nepal</span> Place in Sagarmatha, Nepal

Lobuche is a small settlement near Mount Everest in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It is one of the last overnight stops with lodging on the "trail to base camp", a hike that climbers make on their way to Everest Base Camp (South) when attempting an ascent of Everest via the standard southeast route. It is also a popular stop among trekkers in the area. From there they can complete the trail on to EBC or stop at Gorak Shep, the last stop with lodging on the trail, and climb the modest nearby peak, Kala Patthar, for a rare view of the Everest summit. The structure of Everest is such that its actual summit is not visible from Base Camp.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lingtren</span> Himalayan mountain

Lingtren, 6,749 metres (22,142 ft), is a mountain in the Mahalangur Himal area of Himalaya, about 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) distant in a direct line from Mount Everest. It lies on the international border between Nepal and the Tibet Autonomous Region of China and it was first climbed in 1935. A mountain nearby to the west was originally named Lingtrennup but is now more commonly called Xi Lingchain.

After World War II, with Tibet closing its borders and Nepal becoming considerably more open, Mount Everest reconnaissance from Nepal became possible for the first time culminating in the successful ascent of 1953. In 1950 there was a highly informal trek to what was to become Everest Base Camp and photographs were taken of a possible route ahead. Next year the 1951 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition reconnoitred various possible routes to Mount Everest from the south and the only one they considered feasible was the one via the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm and South Col. In 1952, while the Swiss were making an attempt on the summit that nearly succeeded; the 1952 British Cho Oyu expedition practised high-altitude Himalayan techniques on Cho Oyu, nearby to the west.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kyashar</span> Mountain in Nepal

The Kyashar is a mountain peak 6769 m height in the Khumbu region in Nepal, east of Namche Bazar in the so-called Hinku Himal. It is located within the Makalu-Barun National Park.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition</span> First ascent of the 3rd highest mountain

The 1955 British Kangchenjunga expedition succeeded in climbing the 28,168-foot (8,586 m) Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world, for the first time. The expedition complied with a request from the Sikkim authorities that the summit should not be trodden on so the climbers deliberately stopped about five feet below the summit. George Band and Joe Brown reached the top on 25 May 1955, and they were followed the next day by Norman Hardie and Tony Streather. The expedition was led by Charles Evans who had been deputy leader on the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">1955 French Makalu expedition</span> First ascent of fifth-highest mountain in the world

The 1955 French Makalu expedition was the first to successfully climb Makalu, the Himalayan mountain 12 miles (19 km) to the southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. At 8,485 metres (27,838 ft) Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world and an eight-thousander.

References

  1. 1 2 "Lobuje West". Nepal Mountaineering Association. Retrieved 4 October 2018.
  2. "NMA Peak Guide - Lobuje West". www.nepalmountaineering.org. Archived from the original on 28 May 2019. Retrieved 4 October 2018.
  3. 1 2 Fortune, Steve (2019). "Lobuche East, Southwest Pillar, Hiding in Plain Sight". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. New Zealand: New Zealand Alpine Club. 61 (93): 323. Retrieved 27 November 2021.
  4. Welfringer, Symon (2019). "Lobuche East Southwest Pillar, Le Quatuor à Cordes". Climbs and Expeditions. American Alpine Journal. France: Himalayan Database. 61 (93): 0. Retrieved 27 November 2021.