Sean Bailey (climber)

Last updated
Sean Bailey
2019 Sport & Speed Open Nationals - Awards - Sean Bailey - 01.jpg
Bailey in 2019
Personal information
Born (1996-05-20) May 20, 1996 (age 28)
Shoreline, Washington, U.S.
Height163 cm (5 ft 4 in) [1]
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Medal record
Event1st2nd3rd
World Cup 301
Men's competition climbing
Representing Flag of the United States (23px).png  United States
World Cup
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2021 Salt Lake City Bouldering
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2021 Villars Lead
Gold medal icon (G initial).svg 2021 Chamonix Lead
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2018 Vail Bouldering
Bronze medal icon (B initial).svg 2022 Chamonix Lead
Pan American Games
Silver medal icon (S initial).svg 2023 Santiago Bouldering & Lead

Sean Bailey (born May 20, 1996) is an American professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. He has represented the United States in the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing, [2] and has two podium finishes in bouldering at individual legs of the World Cup, including a win at the Salt Lake City leg of the 2021 World Cup.1 [3] and three in lead climbing, including two gold medals, at the Villars leg, [4] and Chamonix leg, [5] in July 2021.

Contents

Early life and youth competitions

Bailey was born in Shoreline, Washington [6] and began climbing at age 5 with parents, who were both climbers. [7] He began competing with the youth team at the Vertical World climbing gym and won the USA Climbing Sport Climbing Series Youth National Championship at age 17. [7]

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Bailey at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Semi Bailey (BT0A3943).jpg
Bailey at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck

At age 17, Bailey won the 2013 American Bouldering Series, the senior national bouldering competition series in the United States. [7]

Bailey has five IFSC World Cup podium finishes, first place in boulders at Salt Lake City in 2021 [8] and in lead at Villars [4] and Chamonix [5] in 2021, and second place at Vail in 2018. [9] Bailey finished the Lead World Cup season in second place overall. [10] In July 2022, he made his first podium finish of the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup series with a bronze medal in lead at Chamonix. [11]

In 2019, Bailey finished ninth at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse, one place short of securing a spot at the 2020 Summer Olympics, [12] and finished fourth at the 2020 IFSC Pan-American Continental Championships in March 2020, missing a place at the 2020 Olympics at his final opportunity. [13]

He also won the USA Climbing Lead National Championship (formerly USA Climbing Sport and Speed Nationals) in 2016, 2018 [14] and 2022, [15] and the 2019 Bouldering Nationals. [16]

Sport climbing

In June 2016, Bailey sent Chris Sharma's Realization/Biographie , a famous 5.15a  (9a+) route in Céüse, France. [17] He sent another 5.15a in March 2019, Joe Mama in Oliana, Spain. [18]

In September 2021, Bailey sent Bibliographie , a 5.15c  (9b+) route just a few meters away from his previous project, Biographie, in Céüse. The route was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2020 and was repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi earlier in 2021. [19]

Bouldering

In 2020, he sent two V16  (8C+) boulders, Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado, in October [20] and Grand Illusion in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah, in November. [21] Earlier that year, Bailey sent his first V15  (8C) boulder, Pegasus in Joe's Valley, Utah. [22]

In 2024, Bailey made the first ascent of Shaolin V17  (9A), in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. [23] The ascent was his first of the grade and the third V17 in the United States sent by any climber [24] .

World Cup

Rankings

Discipline20192021
Bouldering—4
Lead92

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Güllich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Sport climbing route in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on an overhanging limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ramón Julián</span> Spanish rock climber

Ramón Julián Puigblanque is a professional Spanish rock climber specializing in competition lead climbing and sport climbing. He won two World Championships, in 2007 and 2011, three European Championships, in 2004 2010 and 2015, and one Lead Climbing World Cup in 2010. From 2001 to 2016, he participated in 16 seasons of the World Cup, winning 21 World Cup stages. He has also redpointed several sport routes above 9a (5.14d), and made the first free ascent of La Rambla.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ashima Shiraishi</span> American rock climber (born 2001)

Ashima Shiraishi is an American rock climber. Shiraishi started climbing at the age of six at Rat Rock in Central Park, joining her father. Only a few years later, she quickly established herself as one of the top boulderers and sport climbers in the world. Her numerous accomplishments include first-place finishes in international competitions, and multiple first female and youngest ascents. Shiraishi is featured in several short documentary-style films, and is the subject of the documentary short "Return to the Red" (2012).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ethan Pringle</span> American rock climber (born 1986)

Ethan Pringle is an American rock climber with notable ascents in sport climbing, in traditional climbing, and in bouldering. He has also been active in competition climbing, winning the American national competition lead climbing championships in both youth and adult formats, and silver at the World Youth Championships.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alexander Megos</span> German rock climber

Alexander Megos is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a 9a (5.14d) graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two 9b+ (5.15c) routes, four 9b (5.15b) routes, and several boulders with a boulder 8C (V15) rating.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janja Garnbret</span> Slovenian rock climber

Janja Garnbret is a Slovenian professional rock climber who specializes in sport climbing and competition climbing. She has won multiple competition lead climbing and competition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time. In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing, and successfully defended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successful Slovenian athlete at the Summer Olympics. She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Margo Hayes</span> American rock climber

Margo Hayes is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman to complete the "9a+ Trilogy".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stefano Ghisolfi</span> Italian rock climber (born 1993)

Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c), onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b), and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14). In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jan Hojer</span> German rock climber (born 1992)

Jan Hojer is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several 8C (V15) boulder problems.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Tomoa Narasaki</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1996)

Tomoa Narasaki is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Miho Nonaka</span> Japanese rock climber (born 1997)

Miho Nonaka is a Japanese competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. She is an Olympic silver medalist in sport climbing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Seo Chae-hyun</span> South Korean rock climber

Seo Chae-hyun, also known as Chaehyun Seo, is a South Korean professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the overall 2019 World Cup title in competition lead climbing in her senior debut season. In 2021 she won the IFSC World Championship in lead climbing. Seo is a two-time Olympian, having represented South Korea at the 2020 and 2024 Summer Olympics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nathaniel Coleman</span> American rock climber (born 1997)

Nathaniel Coleman is an American professional climber who won the silver medal in men's combined sport climbing at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. He became the first American male climber to qualify for the Olympic Games after advancing to the final at IFSC Combined Qualifier Toulouse 2019 in November–December, 2019, a qualifying event for the 2020 Games in Tokyo. On June 17, 2020, Coleman added the first ascent of The Grand Illusion (8C+/V16) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah (USA) to his list of accomplishments.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Natalia Grossman</span> American rock climber

Natalia Grossman is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She represents the United States at IFSC Climbing World Cup in competition bouldering and competition lead climbing. She has had 22 podium finishes at World Cup events, including 11 gold medals, and is the only climber to have won four consecutive overall titles in bouldering.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Colin Duffy (climber)</span> American rock climber (born 2003)

Colin Duffy is an American professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. At age 17, he became the youngest climber to qualify to compete at the 2020 Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Matty Hong</span> American rock climber (born 1991)

Matthew Jacob Hong is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b). As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kiromal Katibin</span> Indonesian rock climber (born 2000)

Kiromal Katibin is an Indonesian competition climber who specializes in competition speed climbing. He was the world record holder in speed climbing, with a time of 5.009 seconds recorded at 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Chamonix, France in July 2022, until it was broken by his compatriot Veddriq Leonardo in April 2023. He finished second overall in the men's speed category during the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup series. Katibin also has four career IFSC Climbing World Cup medals, all in speed.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">William Bosi</span> Scottish rock climber (born 1998)

William (Will) Bosi is a British professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. Bosi is only the second British sport climber in history to redpoint a 9b (5.15b) graded sport climbing route, and by 2023, was one of only a small group of climbers in the world to have completed a V17 (9A) boulder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Toby Roberts</span> British rock climber (born 2005)

Toby Roberts is a British rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and in outdoor sport climbing. He is the youngest British climber to redpoint a 9a (5.14d)-graded sport climbing route. He is the 2024 Olympic champion in sport climbing.

References

  1. ↑ "2019 USA Climbing: Bouldering Open National Championships Finals". youtube. USA Climbing. February 2, 2019. Retrieved November 13, 2022.
  2. ↑ Burgman, John (April 1, 2021). "USA Climbing 2021 National Team Trials: Highs and Lows". GymClimber.
  3. ↑ Berry, Natalie (May 31, 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved June 1, 2021.
  4. 1 2 Walker, Noah (July 3, 2021). "Team USA Dominates Finals in Villars World Cup". Gripped. Retrieved July 3, 2021.
  5. 1 2 "Sean Bailey and Laura Rogora Win Chamonix Lead World Cup". GymClimber. July 13, 2021. Retrieved July 15, 2021.
  6. ↑ "Sean Bailey". Outdoor Research. Retrieved June 3, 2021.
  7. 1 2 3 Chrobak, Ula (March 13, 2018). "Generation 5.16: Sean Bailey". Climbing . Retrieved June 3, 2021.
  8. ↑ Burgman, John (May 30, 2021). "Americans Dominate World Cup: Sean Bailey And Natalia Grossman Take Gold". Climbing. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  9. ↑ Burgman, John (June 11, 2018). "Recap and Photo Gallery: IFSC Vail World Cup 2018—Bouldering". Climbing. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  10. ↑ Burgman, John (September 4, 2021). "Garnbret, Grossman Battle At World Cup Lead Finals". GymClimber. Retrieved September 8, 2021.
  11. ↑ Hanlon, Luke (July 11, 2022). "SEAN BAILEY EARNS HIS FIRST CLIMBING PODIUM OF THE SEASON AT THE CHAMONIX WORLD CUP". teamusa.org. Retrieved July 19, 2022.
  12. ↑ "Nathaniel Coleman is second athlete to qualify for U.S. Olympic sport climbing team". olympics.nbcsports.com. November 29, 2019. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  13. ↑ "IFSC PAN AM - CONTINENTAL CHAMPIONSHIPS (C) - LOS ANGELES (USA) 2020". International Federation of Sport Climbing. March 1, 2020. Retrieved April 6, 2022.
  14. ↑ Burgman, John (March 20, 2018). "Highs and Lows: 2018 USA Climbing Sport and Speed Nationals". Climbing. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  15. ↑ Pardy, Aaron (November 14, 2022). "USA Lead Climbing National Champions Crowned in Colorado". Gripped. Retrieved April 14, 2023.
  16. ↑ Burgman, John (February 4, 2019). "USA Climbing 2019 Bouldering Nationals: Highs and Lows". Climbing. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  17. ↑ "Sean Bailey blasts Biographie at Céüse". Planet Mountain. June 8, 2016. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  18. ↑ "Sean Bailey Sends Joe Mama 5.15a in Spain". Gripped. March 6, 2019. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  19. ↑ "Breaking News: Sean Bailey Sends Bibliographie 5.15c". Gripped. September 30, 2021. Retrieved September 30, 2021.
  20. ↑ "In RMNP, the first 8C+ for Sean Bailey!". up-climbing.com. No. October 19, 2020. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  21. ↑ "Sean Bailey Sends The Grand Illusion V16 in Utah". Gripped. November 3, 2020. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  22. ↑ "Vidéo : le monstre Sean Bailey dans "Pegasus" 8C". Grimper (in French). December 5, 2020. Retrieved June 8, 2021.
  23. ↑ "Sean Bailey Climbs New V17 in the U.S.A." Gripped. November 13, 2024. Retrieved November 14, 2024.
  24. ↑ "There Are Now Six V17s, Here's the List". Gripped. 2024-05-31. Retrieved 2024-11-19.
This page is based on this Wikipedia article
Text is available under the CC BY-SA 4.0 license; additional terms may apply.
Images, videos and audio are available under their respective licenses.