Tod's

Tod's S.p.A.

Type	Public (SpA)
Traded as	BIT:  TOD
ISIN	IT0003007728
Industry	Textiles, manufacturing
Founded	1920;103 years ago (1920)
Founder	Filippo Della Valle
Headquarters	Sant'Elpidio a Mare , Italy
Key people	Diego Della Valle (Chairman and CEO)
Products	Footwear, leather goods
Revenue	€883 million (2021) [1]
Operating income	€24 million (2021) [1]
Net income	−€5.9 million (2021) [1]
Total assets	€1.994 billion (2021) [1]
Total equity	€998 million (2021) [1]
Owner	Della Valle Family (64.4%) [2]
Number of employees	4,746 (2021) [1]
Website	todsgroup.com

Tod's S.p.A., also known as Tod's Group, is an Italian company which produces luxury shoes and other leather goods. The company is majority controlled by the founding family Della Valle Family and is listed on the Italy's Milan Stock Exchange being part of the FTSE Italia Mid Cap index. It is presided over by businessman Diego Della Valle.

Its most famous product – the “Gommino” loafer with its trademark 133 rubber pebbles – was originally designed to give women an elegant alternative to the discomfort of driving in high heels. ^[3]

History

Filippo Della Valle started the shoemaking business out of a basement in the late 1920s. Diego Della Valle, the elder son of Dorino Della Valle and a grandson of Filippo Della Valle, expanded the workshop and turned it into a factory that started manufacturing shoes for American department stores in the 1970s. He says he became interested in the retailer on his first visit to the United States as a youth, when he stopped in at a Saks Fifth Avenue store, to which his father used to sell shoes. ^[4]

Diego Della Valle brought in innovative marketing strategies in the early 1980s, kept the handmade manufacturing process and went on to create lifestyle brands with the American-sounding names J. P. Tod’s, ^[5] Hogan and Fay. The first Tod's product was a hand-made casual loafer in soft leather. ^[6] By 1997 he added handbags to the Tod’s brand. ^[7] In the late 1990s, Della Valle turned over the day-to-day operation of the business to Andrea, his younger brother. ^[8]

Tod’s was one of the few luxury companies worldwide to increase sales and profits through the 2007–2008 financial crisis, with profit growing from 77 million euros in 2007 to 83 million in 2008 and 86 million in 2009. ^[9]

In 2014, Tod’s teamed up with Japanese design studio Nendo to create the “Envelope Boat Shoe”, a rubber-soled slip-on. ^[10]

In January 2017, Italian businessman Andrea Bonomi – through his Strategic Capital fund – took a 3 percent stake in Tod’s to support its long-term growth. ^[11]

In late 2017, the group launched a new business model dubbed Tod’s Factory to reverse falling sales and refresh its namesake brand, offering new products and more frequent collections, backed by significant marketing investment. ^[12] As part of Tod’s Factory, it launched the “Tod’s X Mr Porter” menswear capsule collection for Yoox Net-a-Porter in a bid to increase its reach to online customers. ^[13] For the first Tod’s Factory release, the brand hired Alessandro Dell'Acqua in 2018. ^[14] The brand later commissioned Alber Elbaz for a line of shoes and bags in 2019. ^[15]

From 2019, Diego Della Valle started buying more Tod’s shares as they came under pressure due to sliding sales, increasing his ownership to 81.2%. ^[16] In April 2021, Italian influencer Chiara Ferragni joined the board. ^[17] In early 2021, LVMH raised its investment in the group from 3.2% to 10%. ^[17] In May 2021, the market value of Tod's was €1.6 billion. ^{[18] [19]}

In 2022, Della Valle and his brother Andrea offered to buy out other investors at 40 euros a share for up to 338 million euros ($344 million) – valuing the company at 1.32 billion euros ($1.3 billion) – and to de-list the company via a merger with their holding company DeVa Finance. ^[20] By September 2022, the Italian Companies and Exchange Commission (CONSOB) approved the proposed buyout. ^[21] Shortly after, the Della Valle family abandoned its plans for a buyout of the group, after failing to reach the 90% ownership threshold needed to take it private. ^[22]

Creative directors

• 2006–2012: Derek Lam ^{[23] [24]}
• 2013–2016: Alessandra Facchinetti ^[25]
• 2014–2019: Andrea Incontri ^[26]
• 2019–2023: Walter Chiapponi ^[27]

Operations

Tod’s headquarters is located at Villa Brancadoro, a restored 12th-century monastery and the home of a former count in Sant'Elpidio a Mare. ^[28] It was designed by architect Barbara Pistilli. ^[29] There are also three company-owned factories where the shoes, bags, belts and small leather goods are made. ^[30]

Since the early 1990s, ^[31] Tod’s has had numerous stores around the world, including large flagship stores in Europe, the U.S., China, Japan, Malaysia, Singapore, Hong Kong, Indonesia, and Australia.

Tod's moccasins

Campaigns

Tod’s marketing campaigns have featured model Yasmin Le Bon (1998), ^[32] actresses Gwyneth Paltrow (2008) ^[33] and Anne Hathaway (2011), ^[34] dancer Roberto Bolle (2018), ^[35] model Kendall Jenner (2018) ^[36] and actor Xiao Zhan (2022).

Other brands

Hogan

Founded in 1988, Hogan was developed by Diego Della Valle’s son Emanuele as a creative and inventive provider of technosport and urban footwear and leather goods. ^[37] Hogan was introduced in the United States in 1997, ^[38] when it was a sponsor of the Sundance Film Festival. ^[39] In 2010, Hogan signed Karl Lagerfeld for a special collection; the collaboration was continued for several seasons. ^[40]

Fay

A line of outerwear, Fay’s past designers have included Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi (2011–2017) ^[41] and Arthur Arbesser (2018–2019). ^[42]

Roger Vivier

Roger Vivier, maker of high luxury shoes, was acquired in the mid-1990s and developed starting in 2000. ^[18] In 2003, Italian designer Bruno Frisoni was hired as Roger Vivier's Creative Director.

In November 2015, Tod's acquired further stock in the Roger Vivier shoe brand for €415 million. It had previously owned a 57.5% stake, now up to 60.7%. ^[43]

Tod’s eyewear

In 2008, Tod’s licensed its brand name to Marcolin Group for optical frames and sunglasses; in 2018 its licensing agreement was extended through 2023. ^[44]

Sponsoring

In September 2010 Tod’s bestowed $350,000 on Milan’s La Scala theater; a $7.4 million gift followed in June 2011. ^[45]

In 2011, Tod’s emerged as the only private sponsor willing to fund the restoration of Rome’s Colosseum, after a tender fell through; the agreement granted the company exclusive rights to the Colosseum’s logo and images for 15 years in exchange for 25 million euros ($31.99 million). ^[46] Shortly after, Tod’s suspended the agreement pending the outcome of two judicial inquiries and a probe by Italy’s antitrust competition authority into the deal, triggered by complaints by the Italian Labour Union (UIL) and Codacons, a consumer organization. ^{[47] [48]}

See also

• Italian fashion

References

1. "press release 2022 03 10" (PDF). todsgroup.com. Retrieved 10 March 2022.
2. "Investor Relations - Shareholders". todsgroup.com. Retrieved 10 March 2022.
3. Isla Binnie (6 August 2014), Tod's moves on from cozy loafers in bid to recover sales Reuters .
4. Alderman, Liz (2010-10-08). "A Shoemaker That Walks but Never Runs". The New York Times. ISSN   0362-4331 . Retrieved 2020-03-31.
5. Sheryl Garratt (16 October 2011), Diego Della Valle of Tod's: king of loafers  The Daily Telegraph .
6. Sheryl Garratt (16 October 2011), Diego Della Valle of Tod's: king of loafers  The Daily Telegraph .
7. Kate Betts (8 March 2006), Driving Force: Diego Della Valle  Time .
8. Anne-Marie Schiro (27 April 1999), An Empire of Leather Goods Still Driven by a Driving Shoe New York Times .
9. Liz Alderman (8 October 2010), A Shoemaker That Walks but Never Runs New York Times .
10. Isla Binnie (6 August 2014), Tod's moves on from cozy loafers in bid to recover sales Reuters .
11. Valentina Za and Massimo Gaia (11 January 2017), Italy's Bonomi takes 3 pct stake in Tod's, shares soar Reuters .
12. Claudia Cristoferi (20 September 2019), Tod's chief says Hong Kong unrest factored in, turnaround taking effect Reuters .
13. Giulia Segreti (17 June 2017), Tod's launches men's capsule collection for YNAP's Mr Porter Reuters .
14. Nicole Phelps (25 September 2018), Tod’s Makes Alessandro Dell’Acqua Its First Tod’s Factory Collaborator  Vogue .
15. Vanessa Friedman (9 July 2019), Alber Elbaz Makes a Happy Return New York Times .
16. Valentina Za (20 August 2019), Tod's founder Della Valle further raises voting stake to 81.2%  Reuters .
17. "LVMH ups Tod's stake as footwear brands surge back into fashion". Fortune. Retrieved 2021-06-27.
18. "The future of Tod's". Vogue Business. 21 May 2021. Retrieved 2021-06-27.
19. Zargani, Luisa (2021-05-12). "China, Roger Vivier and E-commerce Boost Tod's Group in Q1". WWD. Retrieved 2021-06-27.
20. Agnieszka Flak and Valentina Za (26 October 2022), Tod's founders scrap buyout, mull next step as shares fall  Reuters .
21. Francesca Landini (21 September 2022), Italy's market watchdog approves bid to take Tod's private  Reuters .
22. Agnieszka Flak and Valentina Za (26 October 2022), Tod's founders scrap buyout, mull next step as shares fall  Reuters .
23. Eric Wilson (9 June 2005), Picking Up the Pace  New York Times .
24. Merle Ginsberg (12 March 2012), More Designer Musical Chairs: Derek Lam is Leaving Tod’s Hollywood Reporter .
25. Italy's Tod's hires former Gucci designer Facchinetti  Reuters , 20 February 2013.
26. Isla Binnie (20 June 2014), Tod's hires designer Incontri to make strides beyond footwear  Reuters .
27. Elisa Anzolin (12 July 2023), Tod's creative director Walter Chiapponi to step down  Reuters .
28. Liz Alderman (8 October 2010), A Shoemaker That Walks but Never Runs New York Times .
29. Andrea Lee (1 September 2011), The Tycoon Next Door  W .
30. Anne-Marie Schiro (25 August 1998), Expansion at J. P. Tod's New York Times .
31. Anne-Marie Schiro (27 April 1999), An Empire of Leather Goods Still Driven by a Driving Shoe New York Times .
32. Anne-Marie Schiro (25 August 1998), Expansion at J. P. Tod's New York Times .
33. Marcy Medina (1 August 2008), Tod’s in Tinseltown  W .
34. Anne Hathaway is the new face of Tod's  The Daily Telegraph , 6 September 2011.
35. Kate Guadagnino (18 May 2018), Roberto Bolle Approved  T: The New York Times Style Magazine .
36. Briana Draguca (15 January 2018), Kendall Jenner Joins Dancer Roberto Bolle in New Tod's Campaign  People .
37. Suzy Menkes (17 March 2010), Lagerfeld to Help Tod’s With Its Hogan Brand New York Times .
38. Anne-Marie Schiro (25 August 1998), Expansion at J. P. Tod's New York Times .
39. Constance C. R. White (27 May 1997), Hogans Are Branching Out New York Times .
40. Suzy Menkes (17 March 2010), Lagerfeld to Help Tod’s With Its Hogan Brand New York Times .
41. Giulia Segreti (14 July 2017), Designers for Fay label leave Tod's luxury group Reuters .
42. Giulia Segreti (24 February 2018), Italy's Fay marks new departure with designer Arthur Arbesser Reuters .
43. "Tod's splashes out $440 million on Roger Vivier shoes". Reuters. 23 November 2015.
44. Meliado, Edorado (2018-07-05). "Tod's renews eyewear licence with Marcolin until 2023". Fashion Network. Retrieved 2022-09-03.
45. Andrea Lee (1 September 2011), The Tycoon Next Door  W .
46. Catherine Hornby and Andrew Roche (2 December 2010), Tod's CEO offers to fund Colosseum repair work  Reuters .
47. Guy Dinmore (12 January 2012), Tod’s puts Colosseum agreement on hold  Financial Times .
48. Antonella Ciancio (12 January 2012), Luxury shoemaker threatens to quit Colosseum repair  Reuters .

External links

• Official website