Urbeleskarspitze

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Urbeleskarspitze

Urbeleskarspitze.jpg

The Urbeleskarspitze
Highest point
Elevation 2,632  m (AA) (8,635 ft)
Prominence 375 m Schönecker Scharte
Isolation 8.9 km  Großer Krottenkopf
Coordinates 47°20′12″N10°28′06″E / 47.33667°N 10.46833°E / 47.33667; 10.46833 Coordinates: 47°20′12″N10°28′06″E / 47.33667°N 10.46833°E / 47.33667; 10.46833
Geography
Austria relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Urbeleskarspitze
Parent range Allgäu Alps (Hornbach chain)
Geology
Mountain type Rock summit
Type of rock Main Dolomite (Triassic)
Climbing
First ascent 1869 Hermann von Barth
Normal route Hinterhornbach – Kaufbeurer Haus – Urbeleskarspitze
The northwest flank of the Urbeleskarspitze seen from Urbeleskar Urbeleskarspitze vom Urbeleskar aus.png
The northwest flank of the Urbeleskarspitze seen from Urbeleskar

The Urbeleskarspitze is a 2,632-metre-high mountain peak in the Allgäu Alps. It lies within Austria in the state of Tyrol and is the fifth-highest summit in the Allgäu Alps and the second-highest peak in the Hornbach chain. Its neighbours in the Hornbach chain are the Bretterspitze to the southwest and the Zwölfer Spitze to the northeast.

Allgäu Alps mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps

The Allgäu Alps are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps, located in Bavaria in Germany and Tyrol and Vorarlberg in Austria. The range lies directly east of Lake Constance.

Austria Federal republic in Central Europe

Austria, officially the Republic of Austria, is a country in Central Europe comprising 9 federated states. Its capital, largest city and one of nine states is Vienna. Austria has an area of 83,879 km2 (32,386 sq mi), a population of nearly 9 million people and a nominal GDP of $477 billion. It is bordered by the Czech Republic and Germany to the north, Hungary and Slovakia to the east, Slovenia and Italy to the south, and Switzerland and Liechtenstein to the west. The terrain is highly mountainous, lying within the Alps; only 32% of the country is below 500 m (1,640 ft), and its highest point is 3,798 m (12,461 ft). The majority of the population speaks local Bavarian dialects as their native language, and German in its standard form is the country's official language. Other regional languages are Hungarian, Burgenland Croatian, and Slovene.

Hornbach chain mountain range in Allgäu Alps

The Hornbach chain is a string of mountains, about 15 kilometres long, in the Allgäu Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol.

Contents

Rock and structure

Like most of the high mountains in the Allgäu Alps the Urbeleskarspitze consists of main dolomite. Its summit has a striking bell-shaped appearance and is easily identified from the north and south from nearby and more distant summits.

First ascent

Who first climbed the Urbeleskarspitze cannt be precisely determined. Candidates include unknown locals or a "Dr. Gümbel" in 1854. It was certainly ascended in 1869 by Hermann von Barth. [1]

Hermann von Barth deutscher Bergsteiger

Hermann von Barth was a famous German mountaineer.

Bases

The main starting point for ascents is the village of Hinterhornbach in a side valley of the Tyrolean Lechtal. From there it is roughly 2½ hours to the Kaufbeurer Haus, a self-service hut belonging to the DAV. The hut is regularly manned at weekends from Pentecost to early October but is otherwise only open to members of the Alpine Club with a key.

Hinterhornbach Place in Tyrol, Austria

Hinterhornbach is a municipality in the district of Reutte in the Austrian state of Tyrol.

Lechtal valley

The Lechtal is an alpine valley in Austria, the greater part of which belongs to the state of Tyrol and the smaller part to Vorarlberg. The Lech river flows through the valley.

Ascent

There is no simple way leading to the summit of the Urbeleskarspitze. The two usable routes from the Kaufbeurer Haus require sure-footedness, a head for heights and Alpine experience and climbing preparedness.

Sure-footedness

Sure-footedness refers to the ability, especially when hiking or mountain climbing, to negotiate difficult or rough terrain safely. Such situations place demands on a person's coordination and reserves of strength as well as requiring sufficient appreciation of the terrain. A person who is sure-footed is thus unlikely to slip or stumble.

Head for heights

To have a head for heights means that one has no acrophobia, an irrational fear of heights, and is not particularly prone to fear of falling or suffering from vertigo, the spinning sensation that can be triggered, for example, by looking down from a high place.

The only partially marked normal route is graded as UIAA II+ and takes just under 2 hours through steep schrofen terrain over the northwest flank to reach the top.

Normal route

A normal route or normal way is the most frequently used route for ascending and descending a mountain peak. It is usually the simplest route.

Schrofen

Schrofen, a German mountaineering term, is steep terrain, strewn with rocks and rock outcrops, that is laborious to cross, but whose rock ledges (schrofen) offer many good steps and hand holds. It is usually rocky terrain on which grass has established itself, but it can also refer to purely rocky slopes. Schrofen are found especially where the rock has broken off against its angle of dip.

An alternative climb existed over the north arête. It was a UIAA grade II and ran through broken rock, also taking 2 hours to reach the summit of the Urbeleskarspitze.

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References

  1. Ernst Zettler, Heinz Groth: Alpenvereinsführer - Allgäuer Alpen. 12th full revised edition. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich, 1985, ISBN   3-7633-1111-4 (p. 385).

Literature/ Maps