Chang Chenmo River | |
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Location | |
Country | India, China |
State / Pronvince | Ladakh (India), Tibet Autonomous Region (China) |
Physical characteristics | |
Source | Lanak La |
• location | Rutog County |
• coordinates | 34°21′15″N79°32′41″E / 34.3542°N 79.5446°E |
Mouth | Shyok River |
• location | Ladakh |
• coordinates | 34°16′33″N78°17′20″E / 34.2758°N 78.2889°E |
• elevation | 12,000 feet (3,700 m) [1] |
Length | 70 miles (110 km) [2] |
Basin size | 4,170 km2 (1,610 sq mi) [3] |
Basin features | |
River system | Indus River |
Chang Chenmo River or Changchenmo River is a tributary of the Shyok River, part of the Indus River system. [4] It is at the southern edge of the disputed Aksai Chin region and north of the Pangong Lake basin.
The source of Chang Chenmo is near the Lanak Pass in the Chinese-administered region of Kashmir (as part of the Rutog County in Tibet). [1] [4] [5] The river flows west from Lanak La. At the middle of its course lies the Kongka Pass, part of the Line of Actual Control between India and China passes. [6] Continuing west, the river enters a deep gorge in the Karakoram Range until it joins the Shyok River in Ladakh.
Chang Chenmo means "Great Northern" in Tibetic languages. [7] It is primarily the name of the valley rather than the river. [8]
Chang Chenmo River | |||||||
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Traditional Chinese | 羌臣摩河 | ||||||
Simplified Chinese | 羌臣摩河 | ||||||
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The Chang Chenmo Valley lies in a depression between the Karakoram Range in the north and the Changchenmo Range in the south. The depression continues into Tibet,all the way to Yeshil Kul (Bangda Co) and Lake Lighten (Guozha Co) on the Khotan border. [9] The depression is now recognized as a geological fault called the Longmu Co fault,part of the larger Longmu–Guozha Co fault system. [10]
The Chang Chenmo River has its origin in a glacier southwest of the Lanak Pass,which lies on a low ridge in the middle of the valley. The southern mountains are much more glaciated than the north and possibly much of Changchenmo's waters are derived from them.
The Changchenmo flows on gravel bed for much of its course,described as "stony and bare". Numerous tributary streams flow into it from the north as well as the south,bringing alluvium. Grass grows in the alluvial beds,which is said to be used by the Ladakhis for autumn grazing. However,there is the ever-present danger of snowfall,which can cover up the grass. Unless the animals can be brought back over the high passes they would be in danger of starvation. [11]
In the middle of the Changchenmo valley,a large spur of the Karakoram Range inserts itself,causing the river to zigzag its way through its hills. The Kongka Pass lies on the last of these hills. To the west of the spur,the large tributary of the Kugrang River flows into the river. To its east the Kyapsang River does the same. Three prominent grazing grounds are found to the west of the Kongka Pass,viz.,Kyam (or Kiam,also called Hot Springs), [12] Tsolu (or Tsogstalu),and Pamzal. [13] Another one called Gogra [14] is to the northwest in the Kugrang River valley,where another tributary called Changlung flows into Kugrang. [15]
After Pamzal,the river enters a narrow gorge through the main Karakoram Range,where it becomes a rapid stream. This part of the valley is not traversable except in winter when the river is frozen. [16] [17]
In Chinese-administered Aksai Chin,the Changchenmo is joined by Toglung Marpo,[ citation needed ] Kyapsang, [18] and Silung Kongma. [18]
It crosses the Line of Actual Control to Indian-administered Ladakh near the Kongka Pass. In Ladakh,it is joined by Silung Barma, [18] Silung Yokma, [18] Kugrang River, [19] Rimdi River, [20] and numerous other streams before flowing into the Shyok River. [21]
Changchenmo Range is the name given to the mass of mountains lying between the Chang Chenmo Valley and the Pangong Tso to the south. [22] It has several glaciated spurs which slop down and jut into the northern bank of Pangong Tso,and these spurs are called as the fingers. From west to east,these are named as the Finger-1 to Finger-8. [23] According to the Britannica,the Changchenmo Range and Pangong Range are sometimes considered easternmost part of the Karakoram Range. [24] Prominent features in Changchenmo Range are the Marsimik La,eight "fingers",the Sirijap alluvial plain,Khurnak Plain,etc.
In the late 1800s,in order to facilitate trade between the Indian subcontinent and Tarim Basin,the British attempted to promote a caravan route via the Chang Chenmo Valley as an alternative to the difficult and tariffed Karakoram Pass. [25] The Maharaja Ranbir Singh at the request of the British made improvements to the trails and facilities of the campsites in Chang Chenmo Valley. [26] [27] Unfortunately,in addition of being longer and higher elevation than the traditional route,this route also goes through the desolate desert of Aksai Chin. [25] [27] By 1890s,traders have mostly given up on this route. [18] At the time,Chang Chenmo valley was also a popular hunting spot for British officers on leave. [28] [29]
Since the 1950s,the river is in the disputed territory between China and India. [5] As such,it hosts numerous border outposts from both sides,such as Kongka Pass,Hot Springs,and Tsogstsalu. [30] [31] The region was also the site of numerous tensions in the past,such as the 1959 Kongka Pass incident. [30]
"Changchenmo-Tsogtsalu Road" (CTR), 55 km long: India's BRO will complete the construction of the 55 km long road, from the confluence of Changchenmo & Shyok rivers to Tsogtsalu by December 2023 (August 2023 update), to connect the strategic Changchenmo sector. [32] In October 2023, NHIDCL invited proposal to complete the "detailed project report" (DPR) to upgrade this road to a single-lane national highway with a 700-metre tunnel. The DPR must be completed in 10 months. The road will be updgraded as per the international standards including "highway design, pavement design, service roads wherever needed, type of intersections, rehabilitation and widening of existing and construction of new bridges and structures, road safety features, quantities of materials, cost estimates, and economic analysis". [33]
"Phobrang-Marsimik La-Tsogtsalu-Hot Springs Road" (PMTHR) or "Marsimik La Road" (MLR): BRO is constructing this motorable black-topped road. [34] It used to be a dirt track built earlier in 1983 under the supervision of Everester Sonam Paljore. Marsimik La in Chang-Chemno Mountain Range is 20 km line of sight and 42 km driving distance northwest of the Pangong Tso, and 4 km south of LAC. [35]
Since May 2023, India has opened the Changchenmo sector for the tourism, no Inner Line Permit (ILP) are needed, BRO is building various roads in this sector and police is setting up the tourist check post. Consequently, tourist will be able to travel up to Tsogatsalu and beyond to Hot Springs via Shyok River-Tsogatsalu-Hot Springs Road as well as via the road from Pangong Tso & 18,314-feet-high Marsimik La (pass) to Tsogtsalo pastureland near the confluence of Rimdi Chu and Chang Chenmo rivers. In the next phase tourists will be able to travel up to the Hot Springs and the Police Memorial. The Memorial was constructed to commemorate the sacrifice and martyrdom of ten CRPF soldiers killed on 21 October 1959 by the Chinese while they were on a patrol. [34] [36] "Chak Mandir" is a Hindu temple near the Marsimik La which tourist can visit. [35]
Aksai Chin is a region administered by China partly in Hotan County, Hotan Prefecture, Xinjiang and partly in Rutog County, Ngari Prefecture, Tibet and constituting the easternmost portion of the larger Kashmir region that has been the subject of a dispute between India and China since 1959. It is claimed by India as part of its Leh District, Ladakh Union Territory.
Pangong Tso or Pangong Lake is an endorheic lake spanning eastern Ladakh and West Tibet situated at an elevation of 4,225 m (13,862 ft). It is 134 km (83 mi) long and divided into five sublakes, called Pangong Tso, Tso Nyak, Rum Tso and Nyak Tso. Approximately 50% of the length of the overall lake lies within Tibet administered by China, 40% in Indian-administered Ladakh, and the remaining 10% is disputed and is a de facto buffer zone between India and China. The lake is 5 km (3.1 mi) wide at its broadest point. All together it covers almost 700 km2. During winter the lake freezes completely, despite being saline water. It has a land-locked basin separated from the Indus River basin by a small elevated ridge, but is believed to have been part of the latter in prehistoric times.
Ladakh is an administrative territory of India that has been under its control since 1947. The geographical region of Ladakh union territory is the highest altitude plateau region in India, incorporating parts of the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges and the upper Indus River and valley.
The Ladakh Range is a mountain range in central Ladakh in India with its northern tip extending into Baltistan in Pakistan. It lies between the Indus and Shyok river valleys, stretching to 230 miles (370 km). Leh, the capital city of Ladakh, is on the foot of Ladakh Range in the Indus river valley.
Tourism is one of the economic contributors to the union territory of Ladakh in Northern India. The union territory is sandwiched between the Karakoram mountain range to the north and the Himalayas to the south, and is situated at a height of 11,400 ft. Ladakh is composed of Leh and Kargil districts. The region contains prominent Buddhist sites and has an ecotourism industry.
The Shyok River is a tributary of the Indus River that flows through northern Ladakh and enters Gilgit–Baltistan, in Pakistan, spanning some 550 km (340 mi).
Marsimik La or Marsemik La, also called Lankar La, elevation 5,582 metres (18,314 ft) is a high mountain pass in the Chang Chenmo Range in the Indian union territory of Ladakh, 96 km (60 mi) east of Leh as the crow flies. Ladakh's route to the Chang Chenmo Valley traverses the pass.
Chushul is a village in the Leh district of Ladakh, India. It is located in the Durbuk tehsil, in the area known as "Chushul Valley", south of the Pangong Lake and west of the Spanggur Lake. The Line of Actual Control with China runs about 5 miles east of Chushul, across the Chushul Valley. Famous as site for historical battle grounds.
The Kongka Pass or Kongka La is a low mountain pass on the Line of Actual Control between India and China in eastern Ladakh. It lies on a spur of the Karakoram range that intrudes into the Chang Chenmo Valley adjacent to the disputed Aksai Chin region. China claimed the location as its border in a 1956 map, and attacked an Indian patrol party in 1959 killing ten policemen and apprehending ten others. Known as the Kongka Pass incident, the event was a milestone in the escalation of the border dispute between the two countries.
The Khurnak Fort is a ruined fort on the northern shore of Pangong Lake, which spans eastern Ladakh in India and Rutog County in the Tibet region of China. The area of the Khurnak Fort is disputed by India and China, and has been under Chinese administration since 1958.
The Galwan River flows from the disputed Aksai Chin area administered by China to the Union Territory of Ladakh, India. It originates near the caravan campsite Samzungling on the eastern side of the Karakoram range and flows west to join the Shyok River. The point of confluence is 102 km south of Daulat Beg Oldi. Shyok River itself is a tributary of the Indus River, making Galwan a part of the Indus River system.
Lanak La or Lanak Pass is a mountain pass in the disputed Aksai Chin region, administered by China as part of the Tibet Autonomous Region. It is claimed by India as its border pass.
Tangtse or Drangtse (Tibetan: བྲང་རྩེ, Wylie: brang rtse, THL: drang tsé) is a village in the Leh district of Ladakh, India. It is located in the Durbuk tehsil. Traditionally, it was regarded as the border between the Nubra region to the north and the Pangong region to the south. It was a key halting place on the trade route between Turkestan and Tibet. It was also a site of wars between Ladakh and Tibet.
Durbuk or Darbuk, is a village and the headquarters of the eponymous subdivision and block in the Leh district of Ladakh, India. It is located in the Durbuk tehsil, and falls between Chang La mountain pass and Tangste village on the way to Pangong Tso Lake.
Hot Springs is a campsite and the location of an Indian border outpost in the Chang Chenmo River valley in Ladakh near the disputed border with China. It is so named because there is a hot spring at this location. The Line of Actual Control near Kongka Pass is only 3 kilometres (2 mi) to the east.
Shyok or Shayok is a village on the bank of the Shyok River in Durbuk tehsil of Leh district in Ladakh, India. It is located at the southern tip of the V-shaped course of the Shyok River, where the Tangtse river joins it from the left. Historically, the winter caravan route from Leh to Yarkand passed through the village. In modern times, India's strategic road to its border post at Daulat Beg Oldi uses the same route.
Noh, also called Üchang or Wujang (Tibetan: དབུས་བྱང, Wylie: dbus byang, THL: wü jang) is a village in the Rutog County, Ngari Prefecture of the Tibet region of China. It is located on the northern bank of the eastern Pangong Lake, watered by the Doma River (Tsanger-schar). The village is now part of the Domar Township.
Gogra (also referred to as Nala Junction) is a pasture and campsite in the Ladakh union territory of India, near the Line of Actual Control with China. It is located in the Kugrang River valley, a branch valley of Chang Chenmo Valley, where the Changlung River flows into Kugrang. During the times of the British Raj, Gogra was a halting spot for travellers to Central Asia via the 'Chang Chenmo route', who proceeded through the Changlung river valley and the Aksai Chin plateau.
Jianan Pass is a mountain pass in the eastern Karakoram Range near the Chang Chenmo Valley. The Line of Actual Control (LAC) between India and China runs through the pass dividing the Indian-administered Ladakh and Chinese-administered Aksai Chin. The pass lies on the watershed between Kugrang and Galwan river basins. The Changlung river basin is also immediately to the east of the pass. While China uses the name "Jianan Daban" for the pass, India refers to it as Patrol Point 15 (PP-15) for border security purposes. The term "Hot Springs" has also been used by Indian media through misapplication of terminology.
Tsogtsalu or Tsolu is a pasture and campsite in the Ladakh union territory of India, in the Chang Chenmo Valley close India's border with China. It is located at the confluence of the Rimdi Chu river that flows down from Marsemik La and the Chang Chenmo River. During the British Raj, this was a halting spot for travellers to Central Asia via the 'Chang Chenmo route', passing through Aksai Chin. After Indian independence, a border outpost was established here by a border police party headed by Captain Karam Singh. It continues to serve as a base for India's border forces.
The tributary originates from Lanak la under Chinese possession.
The Chang Chenmo river is a tributary of the Shyok river which joins the Indus river in Ladakh. This river originates from a large glacier on the western slopes of the Lanak La pass
The Chang Chenmo River. It originates from Lanak La, flows westward and joins the Shyok.
Chang-chenmo means "Great-Northern (River)"
Joining the left bank of the river opposite to Kyam are the Silung Yokma, Silung Burma and Silung Kongma. ... cross the Changchenmo valley journey up the Kiepsang stream ... The traders have now almost entirely given up the Changchenmo-Shahidula route to Yarkand.
the Changchenmo river--a tributary of the Shyok ... proceed up another long glen north of Changchenmo named Kugrang
Rimdi river ... reached the point where the Rimdi flows into the Changchenmo river
Map of Chang Chenmo Valley
the five difficult passes through the Karakorams posed a barrier ... Cayley reconnoitred a route that went through the Changchenmo ranges ... if anything these new passes were higher than the ones they replaced, and the land in between them was also higher. ... The route had another advantage in that trade from British India could flow through Kulu via Changchenmo to Yarkand, completely bypassing the customs officials of the Maharaja at Leh.
Ranbir Singh having, at British request, built the road, "serais" and small store houses for grain.
(p26) The Changchenmo line ... The extra distance and the sojourn for 5 days longer in such a desolate tract (p33) Every endeavour has been made to improve the Changchenmo route--serais having been built at some places, and depots of grain established as far as Gogra
Chang Chenmo is now well known, being visited every year by at least half-a-dozen officers on long leave to Kashmir. The game to be found...
October 19 a party from a permanent Indian post at Tsogstsalu, 60 or 65 miles west of the border claimed by India north of Lake Pangong, set up a temporary camp at Hot Spring, some fifteen miles further east. Three men of this party, who had made a reconnaissance eastward towards a pass called Kongka La, failed to return. A patrol of about twenty therefore departed on the morning of the 21st in search of them, dividing into two groups. According to the Indian account these groups were groups were suddenly attacked with automatic and mortar fire, one from a Chinese force entrenched on a nearby hill and the other from a force on the south bank of the Chang Chenmo river.
Karam Singh of ITBF was assigned the task of establishing outposts near the Chinese Occupation Line ... "Hot Springs" was barely three Km far from the site where Chinese Army had intruded.