Conrad Anker

Last updated

Conrad Anker
Conrad Anker - 2016.jpg
Conrad Anker photo from Yellowstone National Park flier
Born (1962-11-27) November 27, 1962 (age 61)
California, United States
Alma mater University of Utah, Northumbria University
Occupation(s)Rock climber, mountaineer, author
SpouseJennifer Lowe-Anker

Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018. [2] In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a search team looking for the remains of the British climber who was last seen in 1924. [3] Anker had a heart attack in 2016 during an attempted ascent of Lunag Ri with David Lama. He was flown via helicopter to Kathmandu where he underwent emergency coronary angioplasty with a stent placed in his proximal left anterior descending artery. [4] Afterwards he retired from high altitude mountaineering, but otherwise he continues his work. [5] He lives in Bozeman, Montana. [6]

Contents

Ascents and expeditions

Anker has also climbed notable routes in Yosemite Valley (California), Zion National Park (Utah), Baffin Island (Canada), and the Ellsworth Mountains in Antarctica.

Writings

Films

Awards

See also


Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Makalu</span> Eight-thousander and 5th-highest mountain on Earth, located in Nepal and China

Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of 8,485 metres (27,838 ft) AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas 19 km (12 mi) southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolated peak shaped as a four-sided pyramid.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pumori</span> Mountain in the Himalayan range, located in Nepal and China

Pumori is a mountain on the Nepal-China border in the Mahalangur section of the Himalayas. Pumori lies just eight kilometres west of Mount Everest. Pumori, meaning "the Mountain Daughter" in Sherpa language, was named by George Mallory. "Pumo" means young girl or daughter and "Ri" means mountain in Sherpa language. Climbers sometimes refer to Pumori as "Everest's Daughter". Mallory also called it Clare Peak, after his daughter.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Bonington</span> British mountaineer (born 1934)

Sir Christian John Storey Bonington, CVO, CBE, DL is a British mountaineer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Foraker</span> Mountain in Alaska, United States

Mount Foraker is a 17,400-foot (5,304 m) mountain in the central Alaska Range, in Denali National Park, 14 mi (23 km) southwest of Denali. It is the second highest peak in the Alaska Range, and the third highest peak in the United States. It rises almost directly above the standard base camp for Denali, on a fork of the Kahiltna Glacier also near Mount Hunter in the Alaska Range.

The goal of the Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition of 1999 was to discover evidence of whether George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had been the first to summit Mount Everest in their attempt of 8–9 June 1924. Key objectives included finding Irvine's body and retrieving a camera that might hold proof of their summit success. Jochen Hemmleb, after reviewing historical records, pinpointed a search area based on a 1975 Chinese expedition report. The expedition was instigated by British climber Graham Hoyland. It was organised by regular Everest expedition leader Eric Simonson and advised by researcher Jochen Hemmleb, with a team of climbers from the United States, United Kingdom and Germany.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Hunter (Alaska)</span> Mountain in Alaska

Mount Hunter or Begguya is a mountain in Denali National Park in Alaska. It is approximately eight miles (13 km) south of Denali, the highest peak in North America. "Begguya" means child in the Dena'ina language. Mount Hunter is the third-highest major peak in the Alaska Range.

Leo Houlding is a British rock climber and mountaineer.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kangshung Face</span> Eastern-facing side of Mount Everest

The Kangshung Face or East Face is the eastern-facing side of Mount Everest, one of the Tibetan sides of the mountain. It is 3,350 metres (11,000 ft) from its base on the Kangshung Glacier to the summit. It is a broad face, topped on the right by the upper Northeast Ridge, and on the left by the Southeast Ridge and the South Col. Most of the upper part of the face is composed of hanging glaciers, while the lower part consists of steep rock buttresses with couloirs between them. The steep southern third of the Kangshung Face also comprises the Northeastern Face of Lhotse; this section may be considered a separate face altogether following the division of the South "Neverest" Buttress up to the South Col. It is considered a dangerous route of ascent, compared to the standard North Col and South Col routes, and it is the most remote face of the mountain, with a longer approach.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Alex Lowe</span> American mountaineer (1958-1999)

Stewart Alexander Lowe was an American mountaineer. He has been described as inspiring "...a whole generation of climbers and explorers with his uncontainable enthusiasm, legendary training routines, and significant ascents of rock climbs, ice climbs, and mountains all over the world...". He died in an avalanche on Shishapangma, in Tibet. The Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation honors his legacy.

Barry Blanchard is one of North America's top alpine climbers, noted for pushing the standards of highly technical, high-risk alpine climbing, ice climbing, and mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies and the Himalayas.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">The Moose's Tooth</span> Mountain in the American state of Alaska

The Moose's Tooth is a rock peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles (24 km) southeast of Denali. Despite its relatively low elevation, it is a difficult climb. It is notable for its many large rock faces and its long ice couloirs, which are famous in mountaineering circles, and have seen a number of highly technical ascents.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Louis Reichardt</span> American neuroscientist and mountaineer

Louis French Reichardt is a noted American neuroscientist and mountaineer, the first American to summit both Everest and K2. He was also director of the Simons Foundation Autism Research Initiative, the largest non-federal supporter of scientific research into autism spectrum disorders and is an emeritus professor of physiology and biochemistry/biophysics at UCSF, where he studied neuroscience. The character of Harold Jameson, U.C.S.F. biophysicist and mountaineer in the film K2, is based on Reichardt, though the events of his actual 1978 K2 attempt with Jim Wickwire bear little resemblance to the plot of the film.

Kevin Thaw is a British rock climber and mountaineer.

Carlos Buhler is one of America's leading high altitude mountaineers. Buhler's specialty is high-standard mountaineering characterized by small teams, no oxygen, minimal gear and equipment, and relatively low amounts of funding; yielding first ascents of difficult routes in challenging conditions, such as the Himalayan winter season.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jimmy Chin</span> American mountain climber and film director and skier (born 1973)

Jimmy Chin is an American professional mountain athlete, photographer, skier, film director, and author.

Terry "Mugs" Stump was a noted American rock climber and mountaineer, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the Alaska Range and the Canadian Rockies. He died from falling into a crevasse while descending the South Buttress of Denali on May 21, 1992, while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max.

John Roskelley is an American mountain climber and author. He made first ascents and notable ascents of 7,000-meter and 8,000-meter peaks in Nepal, India, and Pakistan. In 2014, he became the 6th winner of the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award.

James "Jim" Donini is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia. He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009, and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Janusz Majer</span>

Janusz Majer is a Polish alpinist, himalayanist and traveler. He is co-founder and co-owner of ADD Company, the owner of Alpinus brand (1993–2001), co-founder of Mount Company, the owner of the HiMountain brand which produces outdoor clothing and equipment and co-owner of the large chain of HiMountain shops in Poland. Since 23 November 2013 he's been the head of the program "Polish Himalayas".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">George Lowe (climber)</span> American rock climber and alpinist

George Henry Lowe III is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for his alpine style ascents of difficult and infrequently repeated routes, and his development of traditional climbing routes in the Western United States. He pioneered winter ascents in the North American Rockies along with cousins Jeff Lowe (climber), Mike Lowe, and Greg Lowe. He is also known for his technically difficult ascents of mixed climbing faces in the Himalayas including the North Ridge of Latok I and the first ascent of the East Face of Mount Everest, where the "Lowe Buttress" bears his name. Lowe is currently a resident of Colorado.

References

  1. "Conrad Anker". Desert Island Discs . June 9, 2013. BBC Radio 4 . Retrieved January 18, 2014.
  2. "Hilaree Nelson Replaces Conrad Anker as TNF Team Captain". July 17, 2018. Archived from the original on July 17, 2018.
  3. NOVA Online|Lost on Everest|The Day Mallory Was Found
  4. "Exclusive: Celebrated Mountaineer Suffers Heart Attack at 20,000 Feet". National Geographic. December 5, 2016. Archived from the original on June 6, 2019.
  5. "Conrad Anker Is Not Done Climbing". Outside. April 14, 2019. Archived from the original on April 14, 2019.
  6. "Watch: Conrad Anker Guides Us Through His Montana Hometown". gearjunkie.com. September 11, 2018. Archived from the original on November 24, 2018.
  7. Anker, Conrad (1988). "Gumbies on Gurney". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). NYC, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 69–75. ISBN   0-930410-33-5.
  8. Anker, Conrad (1990). "Hunter's Northwest Face". American Alpine Journal. 42 (64). American Alpine Club: 36–38. ISBN   0-930410-43-2.
  9. "First Ascent Info". Bigwall dot Com. Retrieved February 6, 2008.
  10. Anker, Conrad; David Roberts (2000). The Lost Explorer: Finding Mallory on Mount Everest. Simon and Schuster. p. 100. ISBN   0-7432-0192-2.
  11. Bjornstad, Eric (1996). Desert Rock: Rock Climbs in the National Parks. Evergreen, CO, USA: Chockstone press. p. 67. ISBN   0-934641-92-7.
  12. "Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre". Climbing in Patagonia. Archived from the original on June 20, 2009. Retrieved May 27, 2009.
  13. Anker, Conrad (1998). "With You in Spirit". American Alpine Journal. 40 (72). American Alpine Club: 140–145. ISBN   0-930410-78-5.
  14. Krakauer, Jon; Wiltsie, Gordon (February 1998). "On the Edge of Antarctica: Queen Maud Land". National Geographic Magazine: 46–69. Retrieved May 28, 2009.[ dead link ]
  15. Huber, Alex; Thomas Huber (1998). The American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. pp. 34–42. ISBN   0-930410-78-5.
  16. Schneider, Steve (1998). The American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. p. 187. ISBN   0-930410-78-5.
  17. Chadwick, Alex (April 15, 2003). "Chang Tang's Endangered Antelope". www.npr.org. Retrieved September 25, 2019.
  18. "The Himalayan Cataract Project team Summits Cholatste". MountEverest.net. ExplorersWeb. May 12, 2005. Archived from the original on October 11, 2008. Retrieved September 1, 2009.
  19. Coley, Mariah. "Shark's Fin Full Report" . Retrieved October 8, 2012.
  20. Potts, Maryanne (March 16, 2012). "Beyond The Edge". Archived from the original on March 20, 2012.
  21. 1 2 "10/19/06: The Lost Explorer". KUER. October 18, 2006. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  22. Leydon, Joe (March 5, 2001). "Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure". Variety. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  23. "First ascent of the Shark's Fin route, Meru Peak". Guinness World Records. Retrieved June 16, 2023.
  24. "Simon Scott-Harden Award for Environmental Design Excellence Winners". Batch 44.
  25. "David R. Brower Award Winners". The American Alpine Club. Archived from the original on March 29, 2019.
  26. "George Mallory Award". Wasatch Mountain Film Festival. Retrieved December 16, 2020.
  27. "2016 Golden Pitons: Lifetime Achievement". climbing.com. March 30, 2017. Archived from the original on March 29, 2019.
  28. "2017 HONORARY DEGREE RECIPIENTS". The University of Utah. Archived from the original on June 2, 2019.
  29. "Climbing Legend Conrad Anker to Receive Lifetime Achievement Award, Speak at Cody Ice Festival in February". codyyellowstone.org. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019.
  30. "The Cody Ice Fest is thrilled to..." facebook.com. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019.