Harish Kapadia

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Harish Kapadia
Harish Kapadia Indian Explorer and Mountaineer.jpg
Harish Kapadia, explorer and mountaineer
Born (1945-07-11) 11 July 1945 (age 78)
Mumbai, India
SpouseGeeta Kapadia
ChildrenSonam Kapadia (son)
(Deceased) Lt. Nawang Kapadia (son)

Harish Kapadia (born 11 July 1945) is a Himalayan mountaineer, author and long-time editor of the Himalayan Journal from India. [1]

Contents

He has been elected as an honorary member of the American Alpine Club [2] and the (British) Alpine Club. He was a vice president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (1997–1999) [3] . In 1993 he was awarded the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) Gold Medal. [4] In 2003, the Queen approved the award of the Patron's Medal of the Royal Geographical Society to him. [5] He was also awarded the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award 2003 for lifetime achievement by the President of India and the King Albert Mountain Award  [ de ] presented by The King Albert I Memorial Foundation in 2006. [6] On 3 November 2017, in Seoul, South Korea, Kapadia was awarded the Piolets d'Or Asia Life Time Achievement Award for his mountaineering and exploratory endeavors, he is the first Indian to receive this prestigious award. [7] [8]

He has written numerous books and articles on the Indian Himalayas. [9] and has been invited to many countries to lecture on his Himalayan exploits.

Biography

He began climbing and trekking in the range around Mumbai, the Western Ghats. His first visit to the Himalayas was almost 40 years ago[ when? ]. His main contribution to Himalayan climbing has been to explore unknown areas and, in number of cases, to open up climbing possibilities. Among his major ascents are Devtoli (6,788 metres (22,270 ft)), Bandarpunch West (6,102 metres (20,020 ft)), Parilungbi  [ de ] (6,166 metres (20,230 ft)) in 1995, and Lungser Kangri (6,666 metres (21,870 ft)), the highest peak of Rupshu in Ladakh. He led eight international joint expeditions, [1] [5] five with British, two with French and one with Japanese mountaineers, to high peaks, such as Rimo I (7,385 metres (24,229 ft)), Chong Kumdan Kangri I (7,071 metres (23,199 ft)), Sudarshan Parvat, Padmanabh (7,030 metres (23,060 ft)), and the Panch Chuli and Rangrik Rang groups. [5]

In 1974, he fell into a crevasse at 6,200 metres (20,300 ft), deep inside the formidable Nanda Devi Sanctuary. [1] He was carried by his companions for 13 days to the base camp where a helicopter rescued him. He was operated on for a dislocated hip-joint and had to spend two years walking on crutches, but that did not keep him out for too long and he has climbed for three decades after the injury.

He has published twelve books. His Trek The Sahyadris [10] has become a standard reference for all trekkers in the Western Ghats. His other books, Exploring the Hidden Himalaya (with Soli Mehta) [11] and High Himalaya Unknown Valleys [12] and Meeting The Mountains [13] , cover his various trips to the Himalayas, while Spiti Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya [14] covers climbing and trekking in that region. He has been the editor of the Himalayan Journal from 1980 to 1986, and since 1990, bringing the journal to international standards and continuing it as a major authentic reference on the range.

His book, Meeting The Mountains [13] can be seen while standing in the queue at Disney's Animal Kingdom for Expedition Everest . While passing along the line, one passes by many glass cases displaying the history of mountains and, at one point, there is what is supposed to look like an office with his book on the top bookshelf.

In appreciation of his authorship of many books and his stewardship of the Himalayan Journal as an editor for 35 years, he was further honoured by the Korea Alpen Book Club and made an honorary member. [15] Due his long work as editor of the Himalayan Journal, Kapadia became an important chronicler of mountaineering. [16]

Kapadia has a degree in commerce, law and management from University of Mumbai and is a cloth merchant by profession. He is married and lives in Bombay. His son, Lieutenant Nawang Kapadia, who was commissioned on 2 September 2000 in the Fourth Battalion the Third Gorkha Rifles, [17] died while fighting Pakistan-based terrorists in the jungles of Rajwar in the Kupwara district of Srinagar on 11 November 2000. [18] Since then, Kapadia has lectured about this conflict, particularly in the Siachen Glacier. He has been discussing a proposal for a peace park in the Siachen glacier region and cleaning up the environmental damage there. [1] [9] [19]

Kapadia has donated a substantial number of photographs and maps to the American Alpine Club [20] and to the Swiss National Museum, which are setting up the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Collection. This is in addition to the Lt. Nawang Kapadia Library already in existence at the Himalayan Club.

Notable climbs

Total peaks climbed: 33

First ascents: 21

Bibliography

Related Research Articles

K12 is the second highest peak in the Saltoro Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range in the Siachen region of Ladakh. Its name comes from its designation given during the original survey of the Karakoram range. In 1984, an Indian army expedition under Colonel Prem Chand took hold of this peak, from the side of Siachen glacier by traversing from the west.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Namcha Barwa</span> Mountain in Tibet, China

Namcha Barwa or Namchabarwa is a mountain peak lying in Tibet in the region of Pemako. The traditional definition of the Himalaya extending from the Indus River to the Brahmaputra would make it the eastern anchor of the entire mountain chain, and it is the highest peak of its own section as well as Earth's easternmost peak over 7,600 metres (24,900 ft). It lies in the Nyingchi Prefecture of Tibet. It is the highest peak in the 180 km long Namcha Barwa Himal range, which is considered the easternmost syntaxis/section of the Himalaya in southeastern Tibet and northeastern India where the Himalaya are said to end, although high ranges actually continue another 300 km to the east.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Saltoro Kangri</span> Mountain in disputed Kashmir region administered by India

Saltoro Kangri, previously known as Peak 36, stands as the highest peak within the Saltoro Mountains subrange, which is part of the larger Karakoram range. This subrange is also referred to as the Saltoro Range and is situated within the Karakoram region. The term "Saltoro Kangri" typically encompasses both of its twin peaks, Saltoro Kangri I and Saltoro Kangri II, which are connected by a saddle. When comparing heights, the generic term "Saltoro Kangri" is used for the taller of the two peaks, Saltoro Kangri I. This peak ranks as the 31st highest mountain globally and is located in the remote reaches of the Karakoram. It lies on the Actual Ground Position Line, dividing Indian-controlled territory in the Siachen region from Pakistani-controlled territory to the west of the Saltoro Range.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Nilkantha (mountain)</span> Mountain in Uttarakhand, India

Nilkantha is a major peak of the Garhwal division of the Himalayas, in the Uttarakhand region of the Indian state of Uttarakhand. Although substantially lower than the highest peaks of the region, it towers dramatically over the valley of the Alaknanda River and rises 3,474 metres (11,398 ft) above the Hindu pilgrimage site of Badrinath, only 9 km (6 mi) to the east. Frank Smythe described the peak as "second only to Siniolchu in Himalayan beauty."

Abi Gamin is a Himalayan mountain peak mostly situated in the Chamoli district of Uttarakhand state in India, 2 km (1.2 mi) northeast of Kamet. Its summit is on the border with Tibet and its northern slope is in the Ngari Prefecture of Tibet.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Manirang</span> Indian mountain, part of the Himalayas

Manirang is one of the highest mountains in the Indian state Himachal Pradesh. It lies on the border between Kinnaur district and Lahaul and Spiti district. Close to the peak is the high Manirang pass, which was one of the early trade routes between Spiti and Kinnaur, before the motorable road was built. The trail over the pass starts from Mane Yogma on the Spiti side and runs to the Ropa valley in Kinnaur.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Indian Himalayan Region</span> Region in northern India

The Indian Himalayan Region is the section of the Himalayas within the Republic of India, spanning thirteen Indian states and union territories, namely Ladakh, Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Sikkim, West Bengal, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura, Assam, and Arunachal Pradesh. The region is responsible for providing water to a large part of the Indian subcontinent and contains various flora and fauna.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kalanag</span>

Kalanag or Black Peak (6,387 m) is a peak in the Garhwal Himalaya in Uttarakhand, India. It is the highest peak in the Bandarpunch massif, others being Bandarpunch I (6,316 m) and White Peak or Bandarpunch II (6,102 m). The name literally means "Black Cobra" in Hindi.

Indira Col West is a mountain pass at 5,988 metres (19,646 ft)) altitude on the Indira Ridge of Siachen Muztagh in Karakoram Range. It is on the border between Indian-controlled Siachen Glacier and the Chinese-controlled Trans-Karakoram Tract, close to the tripoint of India, Pakistan, and China. The India-Pakistan Actual Ground Position Line (AGPL) in the Siachen area ends near the pass. It is possible to ascend the pass from both the north and south sides controlled by China and India respectively.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sia Kangri</span>

Sia Kangri is a mountain in the Baltoro Muztagh in the Karakoram. Its summit lies on the border of Pakistan and China. About a kilometer southeast of the Sia Kangri summit is the tri point where territories controlled by India, Pakistan and China meet. Territories on all sides are disputed. The land immediately to the southwest of the peak is claimed by both Pakistan and India and controlled by Pakistan. The land to the northeast is part of the Trans-Karakoram Tract, controlled by China under a 1963 border agreement with Pakistan but is claimed by India. The land to the southeast is claimed by Pakistan and India, but controlled by India, as a part of Ladakh. It is the 63rd highest mountain in the world, and the 25th highest in Pakistan. The peak is on the watershed between the Indus River basin and the Tarim Basin. Indira Col which is 3 km to the east is India's northernmost point.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Takling La</span>

Takling La is a parallel trek route through the Parana La (pass), located in the Himalayan Mountains. Parana La is the most famous trek route of Spiti and connects Kaza to Karzok. It has an altitude of 18,290 ft and follows the traditional trade route between Ladakh and Spiti Valley.

Auden's Col is a high altitude mountain pass connecting Rudugaira valley and Bhilangna valley in India. It is situated at 5,490 metres (18,010 ft) elevation and connects the ridge coming from Gangotri III peak on the north-west and the ridge coming from Jogin I on the east, and also binds a glacier coming from Jogin I on the north side of Rudugaira valley, and deadly Khatling glacier on the south side of Bhilangna valley.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Murgo</span> Village in Ladakh, India

Murgo, on "Murgo Nala" near Murgo Hotspring, is a small hilly village which lies near the Line of Actual Control in Leh district of the union territory of Ladakh in India, close to Chinese-controlled Aksai Chin. It is one of the northernmost villages of India. The Murgo Gompa is a large Buddhist monastery at Murgo. Murgo lies on the Darbuk–Shyok–DBO Road and Sasser Brangsa-Murgo Road fork of Sasoma–Sasser La-Saser Brangsa-Gapsam-Daulat Beg Oldi Road, both of which connect Leh to Daulat Beg Oldi. The village is inhabited by a small civilian population of Baltis, who make a living by apricot farming and yak rearing. The temperature plummets as low as -30 C in the winters. The weather deteriorates frequently with strong icy winds lashing much of Murgo. Murgo has very little vegetation or wildlife. Telecommunication at Murgo is only available through INMARSAT satellite phones. The Indian Armed Forces have significant presence in the area.

Apsarasas Kangri is a mountain in the Siachen subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. With an elevation of 7,245 m (23,770 ft) it is the 96th highest mountain in the world. Apsarasas Kangri is located within the broader Kashmir region disputed between India, Pakistan and China. It is situated on the border between the areas controlled by China as part of the Xinjiang autonomous region, and the Siachen Glacier controlled by India as part of Ladakh.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Shilla (mountain)</span>


Shilla is a mountain peak close to Spiti Valley, part of the Himalaya mountains. Its peak is 6,132 metres (20,118 ft) above sea level. It is in Himachal Pradesh in Northern India. The name may be derived from: Shi = death, Shi-la = range or peak death. Other meanings locally offered are 'a place of monastery' or 'a gateway to heaven’. The Shilla peak is on the divide between Lingti and Shilla Nullah/nala.

The role of The Doon School in Indian mountaineering describes the formative links between The Doon School, an all-boys boarding school in Dehradun, India and early post-Independence Indian mountaineering. From the 1940s onwards, Doon's masters and students like A.E. Foot, R.L. Holdsworth, J.A.K. Martyn, Gurdial Singh, Jack Gibson, Aamir Ali, Hari Dang, Nandu Jayal, were among the first to go on major Himalayan expeditions in a newly independent nation. These early expeditions contributed towards laying the foundation of mountaineering in an independent India.

Koteshwar I is a mountain of the Garhwal Himalaya in Uttarakhand, India. The elevation of Koteshwar I is 6,080 metres (19,948 ft). It is the 161st highest peak in Uttrakhand. Nanda Devi, is the highest mountain in this category. It lies close to Sudarshan Parbat 6,507 metres (21,348 ft) in the south. It has two approach route one from Thely Bamak and another from Swetvarn Bamak. Its nearest higher neighbor Sudarshan Parbat 6,507 metres (21,348 ft) lies 1.3 km North. It is located 5 km SW of Yogeshwar 6,678 metres (21,909 ft) and 3.2 km east lies Shyamvarn 6,135 metres (20,128 ft).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kataklik Kangri</span> Mountain peaks

Kataklik Kangri are two of the highest mountains in the mountain group which are located in the east of the Shyok River's upper reaches, which lies in the far west of the Transhimalaya.

References

  1. 1 2 3 4 "Himalayan climber to give lecture". The Irish Times. 24 November 2011. Retrieved 23 December 2016.
  2. ↑ "Honorary Members". American Alpine Club. Retrieved 30 March 2024.
  3. ↑ "IMF hierarchy". Indian Mountaineering Foundation. Retrieved 30 March 2024.
  4. ↑ "Alpine Club Notes" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 24 December 2016.
  5. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 "Kapadia gets Patron's Medal". The Tribune. 25 May 2003. Retrieved 23 December 2016.
  6. ↑ "Harish Kapadia". Albert Mountain Awards. Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  7. ↑ "Indian Mountaineer Harish Kapadia Wins Piolets D'Or Asia Lifetime Achievement Award". India.com.
  8. ↑ "First Indian gets Piolets d'Or; Harish Kapadia does country proud". Dream Wanderlust. 3 November 2017.
  9. 1 2 "Meet Harish Kapadia, who knows the Himalayas, Sahyadri like the back of his hand". DNA India. 11 December 2013. Retrieved 22 December 2016.
  10. 1 2 Kapadia, Harish (1987). Trek the Sahyadris. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788193341254.
  11. 1 2 Soli, Mehta; Kapadia, Harish (1990). Exploring the Hidden Himalaya. Hodder & Stoughton. ISBN   9780340504499.
  12. 1 2 Kapadia, Harish (2002). High Himalaya Unknown Valleys (4th ed.). New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173871177 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  13. 1 2 3 Kapadia, Harish (1998). Meeting the Mountains. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173870859 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  14. 1 2 Kapadia, Harish (1996). Spiti: Adventures in the Trans-Himalaya (2nd ed.). New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173870934 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  15. ↑ "Rare honour for veteran Indian climber". Dream Wanderlust. 10 November 2017.
  16. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski (2008). "History of chronicles", 8000ers.com. Retrieved 9 May 2015.
  17. ↑ "Lt. Nawang Kapadia" . Retrieved 23 December 2016.
  18. ↑ "The Nanda Devi mystery". Live Mint. HT Media. 18 April 2015. Retrieved 23 December 2016.
  19. ↑ "In memory of an army officer slain in battle". Rediff. 16 August 2002. Retrieved 22 December 2016.
  20. ↑ "ang Kapadia Collection". Flickr. Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  21. ↑ Harish Kapadia (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram. New Delhi: Indus Publishing Company. p. 73-86.
  22. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Kumaun Himalaya. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173870965 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  23. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Garhwal Himalaya. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173870972 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  24. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Himachal Pradesh. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173870996 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  25. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (1999). Across Peaks & Passes in Ladakh, Zanskar & East Karakoram. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173871009 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  26. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (2001). Across Peaks & Passes in Darjeeling & Sikkim. New Delhi: Indus Publishing. ISBN   9788173871269 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  27. ↑ Kapadia, Harish, ed. (2001). A Passage To Himalaya. The Himalayan Club. ISBN   9780195657746 . Retrieved 29 March 2024.
  28. ↑ Kapadia, Harish (2001). Trekking and Climbing in the Indian Himalaya. New Holland. ISBN   9781859746707.
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