Transcriptions | |
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Standard Mandarin | |
Hanyu Pinyin | Hébāo |
Hebao (Chinese :荷包; pinyin :hébāo),sometimes referred as Propitious pouch in English, [1] is generic term used to refer to Chinese embroidery pouches,purses,or small bag. [2] : 83 [3] : 84 When they are used as Chinese perfume pouch (or sachet),they are referred as xiangnang (Chinese :香囊; pinyin :xiāngnáng;lit.'Fragrant sachet'),xiangbao (Chinese :香包; pinyin :Xiāngbāo;lit.'Fragrant bag'),or xiangdai (Chinese :香袋; pinyin :xiāngdài). [4] [1] [3] : 216 In everyday life,hebao are used to store items. In present-days China,xiangbao are still valued traditional gifts or token of fortune. [1] Xiangbao are also used in Traditional Chinese medicine. [5] : 463
There are many ethnic groups in China which share the custom of wearing pouches. The hebao is also a type of adornment used in traditional Chinese clothing (including in hanfu and in the Manchu people's qizhuang ). [4] [1] Manchu pouches are called fadu. [1]
While the wearing of Chinese pouches can be traced back to the Pre-Qin dynasties or much earlier,the term of hebao only appeared after the Song dynasty. [1]
Hebao is also used as token of love since purses were personal items. [6] : 100 They are used as a gift between young girls and boys and their acceptance towards each other. [2] : 83 Chinese perfume pouches,xiangbao,are still valued items which are exchanged between lovers in the countryside. [4]
Perfume pouches are also a love token for the ethnic Manchu;and when two youths fall in love,the boy is given a handmade perfume pouch by the girl. [1] It is unknown when the perfume pouch became a pledge of romantic love. [1] In Manchu culture,the pouch can also hold tobacco. Tobacco pouches are usually made by a wife for her husband or by a maiden for her lover. [1]
It is also customary for the brides from the Yunnan ethnic minorities to sew hebao in advance prior to their wedding;they would then bring hebao to their bridegroom's home when they get married. [6] : 100 The number of hebao they would require to make would depend on the numbers of people (e.g. musicians,singers and guests) who would attend their wedding ceremony. [6] : 100 Ginkgo nuts,peanuts,sweets would be placed inside those pouches as a symbolism of 'giving birth to babies as soon as possible'. [6] : 100–101
On the Dragon Boat Festival,Chinese mugwort would often be inserted in the hebao to exorcise the Five Poisons. These perfume sachets are called xiangbao (香包).
Xiangbao is used in Traditional Chinese medicine. [5] : 463 The wearing of Chinese medicine xiangbao as a preventive to diseases are a characteristic of Traditional Chinese medicine,known as dressing therapy. [5] : 463 These medicine pouches are used to induce resuscitation,awaken consciousness,eliminate turbid pathogens with aromatics,invigorate organs (spleen and stomach),avoid plague and filth,repel mosquitoes and other insects. [5] : 463
The hebao was developed from the nangbao,a type of small bag which would keep one's money,handkerchief and other small items as ancient Chinese clothing did not have any pocket. [1] The most common material for the making of nangbao was leather. [1] The earliest nangbao had to be carried by hand or by back,but with time,the nangbao was improved by people by fastening it to their belts as they earliest nangbao were too inconvenient to carry. [1]
The custom of wearing of pouches dates back to the pre-Qin dynasties period or earlier;the earliest unearthed artefacts of Chinese pouches is one dating from the Spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period. [1] [note 1]
In the Southern and Northern dynasties,hebao became one of the most popular form of clothing adornment. They were worn at the waist and were used to carry items (such as seals,keys,handkerchiefs). Incense,pearls,jade,and other valuable items were placed inside the hebao to dispel evil spirits and foul smells. [7]
In the Song dynasty,the term hebao referred to a small bag which would store carry-on valuables (e.g. money and personal seal). [1] Since then,the custom of wearing hebao continued throughout the centuries through the late Qing dynasty and the early Republic of China. It then vanished in cities due to the clothing reforms when pockets became of common use. [1] Despite its decline in common use,the hebao was still popular in some rural areas and ethnic minority areas in present-day China allowing the Chinese folk art to be transmitted to modern times. [1]
It is also likely that the use of xiangbao is a custom which dates back to ancient times traditions,when people in ancient times used to carry a medicine bags when they would go hunting in order to drive poisonous insects away. [4] [1]
The tradition of carrying xiangbao can be traced back to the Duanwu festival,where a hebao would be filled with fragrant herbs and was embroidered with the patterns of the Five Poisons;it was meant to ward off evil spirits and wickedness while brings wealth and auspiciousness to its carrier. [1] According to old sayings,these perfume pouches were made to commemorate Qu Yuan:when Qu Yuan drowned himself in the Miluo River,people living in the neighbouring Qin made and carried pouches stuffed with sweet grass and perfumed which was loved by Qu Yuan out of sympathy for the poet and to cherish his memory. [4]
According to the Neize of the Liji 《禮記•内则》,young people have to wear a scented bag,called jinying (衿纓),during this period,when they meet their parents to meet their parents to pay respect. [6] : 100 [8] [5] : 463
During the reign of Qin Shi Huang,perfume pouches were attached on the girdles of young men to show respect to their parents and their in-laws. [9] : 87
It is also believed that the use of xiangbao is a long tradition of the Han Chinese;the use of xiangbao can be traced back to the Tang dynasty when women living in rural areas would make perfume pouch (made of coloured silk,silk threads,gold and silver beads) in every year on the 4th lunar month. [4]
By the Qing dynasty,xiangbao were not exclusively used on the Duanwu Festival;they were used on daily basis. [1] [4] Nearly everyone carried a xiangbao regardless of social classes,ages and gender. [9] : 87 The Manchu also carried xiangbao all year round. [9] : 87 Moreover,according to the Qing dynasty custom,the emperors and the empresses were required to carry a xiangbao on them all year round. The Qing emperors would also award perfume pouches to the princes and ministers to show his favour for them on important festivals or at the end of each year. [4] [1] Yuyong hebao (Chinese :御用荷包; pinyin :yùyòng hébāo),ornamented purses which were manufactured for the imperial palace,were an extraordinary mark of imperial favour and expressed the high regards which was held by the Qing emperor to his generals;the emperors only sent to those hebao to his highest generals. [10] : 413
Emperor Tongzhi and Emperor Guangxu used to perfume pouches when choosing their empresses:the Emperor would hang a xiangbao on the button of the dress of the girls whom he took fancy in after having examined all the girls who were lined up in front of him. [4] Xiangbao were used extensively by the common people regardless of gender and ages;they would carry perfume pouches and give it to others as presents while young men and women would often use it as a toke of love. [4] Xiangbao were appreciated for their fragrance but they were also considered as a preventive against diseases. [9] : 87
The fadu of the Manchu people originated from a form of bag used by the ancestors of the Manchu who lived a hunting life through dense forested mountains. The bag was originally made of out animal hide and was worn at the waist;it was secured on the belt for the usage of carry food. [1] Later on,when the ancestors of the Manchu left the mountain regions and began an agricultural life,the hide bag was developed into a small and delicate accessory which would only contain sweetmeat. [1] Manchu women would use small pieces of silk and satin to the sew the bag and would decorate it with flower and birds embroidery patterns. [1] They also use their pouches to carry perfume and tobacco. [1]