Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined

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Men's combined
at the Games of the XXXII Olympiad
Sport climbing pictogram.svg
Olympic sport climbing
VenueAomi Urban Sports Park, Tokyo
Dates3 August 2021 (qualification)
5 August 2021 (final)
Competitors20 from 15 nations
Winning Score28
Medalists
Gold medal icon.svg Alberto Ginés López Flag of Spain.svg  Spain
Silver medal icon.svg Nathaniel Coleman Flag of the United States.svg  United States
Bronze medal icon.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Austria.svg  Austria

The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. [1] A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final. [2]

Qualification

Competition format

In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals. [3]

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting

Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States. [4] [5]

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan. [6]

Records

Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

Speed records
World recordFlag of Indonesia.svg  Veddriq Leonardo  (INA)5.208 Salt Lake City, United States28 May 2021
Olympic recordNot established– ––

The following records were established during the competition:

DateRoundClimberNationTimeRecord
August 3Speed Qualification Bassa Mawem Flag of France.svg  France 5.45 [7] OR

Schedule

All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date [8] TimeRound
Tuesday, 3 August 202117:00Speed Qualification
18:00Bouldering Qualification
21:10Lead Qualification
Thursday, 5 August 202117:30Speed Final
18:30Bouldering Final
21:10Lead Final

Results

Qualification

The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.

RankClimberNationSpeed [9] Bouldering [10] Lead [11] Total [12] Notes
ABCP1234ResultsCPHRTFTCP
1 Mickaël Mawem Flag of France.svg  France 5.957.753T2z2T1z1T1z1z13T4z 4 5128+2:241133.00Q
2 Tomoa Narasaki Flag of Japan.svg  Japan DNS5.942T2z1T4z4z1z12T4z 6 7226+2:111456.00Q
3 Colin Duffy Flag of the United States.svg  United States 6.236.856T10z6–T7z6–2T2z 17 12542+4:44260.00Q
4 Jakob Schubert Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 6.706.9412z9–z3T2z11T3z 2 13742+4:02184.00Q
5 Adam Ondra Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic 7.468.1618T4z4–z4T3z32T3z 7 11339+4216.00Q
6 Alberto Ginés López Flag of Spain.svg  Spain 6.486.327––T12z4–1T1z 12 41441+3294.00Q
7 Bassa Mawem Flag of France.svg  France 5.45 OR 5.671z4–––0T1z 0 418720360.00Q
8 Nathaniel Coleman Flag of the United States.svg  United States 6.516.5210z1–T4z3z21T3z 4 611395550.00Q
9 Alexander Megos Flag of Germany.svg  Germany 9.897.4719T2z1z6z7z11T4z 2 15636+6684.00
10 Chon Jong-won Flag of South Korea.svg  South Korea 6.21Fall5z4–T3z3z31T3z 3 101026+2:3416800.00
11 Rishat Khaibullin Flag of Kazakhstan.svg  Kazakhstan 6.906.194––z3–0T1z 0 31728+3:0913884.00
12 Jan Hojer Flag of Germany.svg  Germany 6.63Fall11z2–T3z3z31T3z 3 8929+9891.00
13 Aleksey Rubtsov Flag placeholder.svg  ROC 8.097.2316T6z3––T1z12T2z 7 4426+2:2915960.00
14 Pan Yufei Flag of the People's Republic of China.svg  China 8.637.5920T2z2–z12z11T3z 2 1583671120.00
15 Michael Piccolruaz Flag of Italy.svg  Italy 6.336.468T5z5–z2–1T2z 5 71328+2:33121248.00
16 Christopher Cosser Flag of South Africa.svg  South Africa 6.487.559z7–z8–0T2z 0 151629101440.00
17 Sean McColl Flag of Canada (Pantone).svg  Canada 9.186.9314z2–z1–0T2z 0 31535+81680.00
18 Kai Harada Flag of Japan.svg  Japan Fall7.0815T4z1–z7–1T2z 4 81225+173060.00
19 Ludovico Fossali Flag of Italy.svg  Italy 6.717.3913––––0T0z 0 019.5252:48184563.00
20 Tom O'Halloran Flag of Australia.svg  Australia 7.3412.2017––––0T0z 0 019.5253:58196298.50

Final

RankClimberNationSpeed [13] [14] Bouldering [15] Lead [16] Total [17]
QuarterfinalsSemifinalsFinalsCP123ResultsCPHRCP
RTRTRT
Gold medal icon.svg Alberto Ginés López Flag of Spain.svg  Spain 27.4476.56126.421z1z7z10T3z 0 9738+428
Silver medal icon.svg Nathaniel Coleman Flag of the United States.svg  United States 46.4566.2110Fall6T1z1T3z2z12T3z 4 4134+530
Bronze medal icon.svg Jakob Schubert Flag of Austria.svg  Austria 39.1866.769W7T1z1z5z11T3z 1 75Top135
4 Tomoa Narasaki Flag of Japan.svg  Japan 36.1186.02127.822T1z1z3z11T3z 1 5333+636
5 Mickaël Mawem Flag of France.svg  France 46.3687.05116.473T1z1z1z11T3z 1 3223+742
6 Adam Ondra Flag of the Czech Republic.svg  Czech Republic 1W77.03116.864T2z1–z11T2z 2 2642+248
7 Colin Duffy Flag of the United States.svg  United States 2FS5W106.355T1z1z3z11T3z 1 5440360
8 Bassa Mawem*Flag of France.svg  France 1DNS5DNS9DNS8–––DNS8DNS8512

* Injured and could not compete. [2]

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References

  1. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results". Olympics. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  2. 1 2 "Climbing-Injury forces France's Bassa Mawem out of men's final". Reuters. 4 August 2021. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  3. ↑ "Sport Climbing". Olympics. Archived from the original on 2 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  4. ↑ "Interview: Olympic Bouldering Chief Route-Setter Percy Bishton". Climbing. 20 February 2020. Archived from the original on 1 August 2021. Retrieved 1 August 2021.
  5. ↑ "Percy Bishton, IFSC Chief Route-setter Bouldering, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 August 2021. Retrieved 31 July 2021.
  6. ↑ "Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games". PlanetMountain.com. Archived from the original on 2 August 2021. Retrieved 4 August 2021.
  7. ↑ "Sport climbing at Tokyo 2020: Records set at Olympic debut". Tokyo 2020. Archived from the original on 7 August 2021. Retrieved 7 August 2021.
  8. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Olympic Schedule & Results | Tokyo 2020". Olympics.com/tokyo-2020/. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 24 July 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  9. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  10. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  11. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Qualification Results" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  12. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Qualification Results Summary" (PDF). TOCOG. 3 August 2021. Archived (PDF) from the original on 3 August 2021. Retrieved 3 August 2021.
  13. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Brackets" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  14. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Speed Final – Race Analysis" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  15. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Bouldering Final" (PDF). Tokyo 2020. 5 August 2021. Archived from the original (PDF) on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 5 August 2021.
  16. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Lead Final Results" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.
  17. ↑ "Sport Climbing – Men's Combined – Final Results Summary" (PDF). Archived (PDF) from the original on 5 August 2021. Retrieved 6 August 2021.
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