Mount Bute

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Mount Bute
Mount Bute.jpg
Mount Bute with the west face featured
Highest point
Elevation 2,810 m (9,220 ft) [1]
Prominence 640 m (2,100 ft) [1]
Parent peak Mount Grenville (3126 m) [1]
Isolation 12.1 km (7.5 mi) [2]
Listing Mountains of British Columbia
Coordinates 50°56′06″N124°42′04″W / 50.93500°N 124.70111°W / 50.93500; -124.70111 [3]
Naming
Etymology John Stuart, 3rd Earl of Bute
Geography
Canada British Columbia relief location map.jpg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Mount Bute
Location of Mount Bute in British Columbia
Canada relief map 2.svg
Red triangle with thick white border.svg
Mount Bute
Mount Bute (Canada)
Location British Columbia, Canada
DistrictRange 1 Coast Land District
Parent range Coast Mountains
Topo map NTS   92K15 Southgate River [3]
Geology
Type of rock granite

Mount Bute, also known as Bute Mountain, is a 2,810- metre (9,220- foot ) mountain located in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Situated at the southern extreme of the Homathko Icefield, Mount Bute has an impressive 800-metre sheer granite west face, and Bute Glacier dominates the north aspect. This imposing mountain is visible from Waddington Harbour at the head of Bute Inlet, in a remote wilderness area that few visit. Its nearest higher peak is Mount Grenville, 13.0 km (8.1 mi) to the east-northeast. [1] Mount Grenville is the highest summit of the icefield. Mount Bute is 63.0 km (39.1 mi) southeast of Mount Waddington, the highest peak of the entire Coast Mountains range.

Contents

History

Like Bute Inlet, the mountain was named in 1792 by Captain George Vancouver to honor John Stuart, 3rd Earl of Bute who was Prime Minister of Great Britain from 1762 to 1763. [4] Stuart's grandson Charles Stuart was a master's mate on George Vancouver's Discovery. [5] The mountain's toponym was officially adopted in 1963 by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. [3]

Climate

Based on the Köppen climate classification, Mount Bute is located in a marine west coast climate zone of western North America. [6] Most weather fronts originate in the Pacific Ocean, and travel east toward the Coast Mountains where they are forced upward by the range (Orographic lift), causing them to drop their moisture in the form of rain or snowfall. As a result, the Coast Mountains experience high precipitation, especially during the winter months in the form of snowfall. Temperatures can drop below −20 °C with wind chill factors below −30 °C. Precipitation runoff from Mount Bute drains into the Southgate River which empties into Bute Inlet, except where the Bute Glacier meltwater drains into Galleon Creek.

Climbing

The imposing west face was first climbed in 1986 by Greg Foweraker and Don Serl. The second ascent was accomplished three days later by Fred Beckey, Kit Lewis, and Jim Nelson. [7]

The School of Rock route (YDS 5.11 50 pitches) was first climbed in 2009 by Jimmy Martinello, Bruce Kay, and Jason Sinnes. [8]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Waddington</span> Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

Mount Waddington, once known as Mystery Mountain, is the highest peak in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. Although it is lower than Mount Fairweather and Mount Quincy Adams, which straddle the United States border between Alaska and British Columbia, Mount Waddington is the highest peak that lies entirely within British Columbia. It and the subrange which surround it, known as the Waddington Range, stand at the heart of the Pacific Ranges, a remote and extremely rugged set of mountains and river valleys.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Waddington Range</span> Subrange of the Coast Mountains in southwestern British Columbia, Canada

The Waddington Range is a subrange of the Pacific Ranges of the Coast Mountains in southwestern British Columbia, Canada. It is only about 4,000 km2 in area, relatively small in area within the expanse of the range, but it is the highest area of the Pacific Ranges and of the Coast Mountains, being crowned by its namesake Mount Waddington 4,019 m (13,186 ft). The Waddington Range is also extremely rugged and more a complex of peaks than a single icefield, in contrast to the other huge icefield-massifs of the southern Coast Mountains, which are not so peak-studded and tend to have more contiguous icemasses.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Munday</span>

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Mount Grenville is the highest summit of the Homathko Icefield of the Pacific Ranges of the Coast Mountains, east of the head of Bute Inlet. It has a height of 3,126 metres (10,256 ft) and a prominence of 1,101 metres (3,612 ft). It is located at the southern edge of the icefield and is one of a large group of summits in this region to be named for figures of the Elizabethan era, or with other Elizabethan associations.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Rexford</span> Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

Mount Rexford is a prominent 2,329-metre (7,641-foot) mountain summit located in the Cascade Mountains of southwestern British Columbia, Canada. It is situated 3.5 km (2 mi) north of the Canada–United States border, 7 km (4 mi) west of Chilliwack Lake, and 5.5 km (3 mi) east of Slesse Mountain, which is its nearest higher neighbor. Precipitation runoff from the peak drains into Nesakwatch and Centre Creeks, both tributaries of the Chilliwack River. Originally known as Ensawkwatch, the mountain was named for an early settler in the area, Rexford, who had a cabin near Slesse Creek and had trap lines in the vicinity. The mountain has two subsidiary peaks known as the Nesakwatch Spires. The mountain's name was officially adopted on June 2, 1950, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. Mount Rexford was first climbed in July 1951 by Herman Genschorek and Walt Sparling via the West Ridge.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Dione</span> Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Albert (Canada)</span> Mountain in the country of Canada

Mount Albert is a prominent 2,552-metre (8,373-foot) mountain located in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia, Canada. It is an isolated mountain situated at the head of Queens Reach of Jervis Inlet, 8 km (5.0 mi) northwest of Princess Louisa Inlet, in a remote wilderness area that few visit. Its nearest higher peak is Mount Tinniswood, 9.23 km (5.74 mi) to the north-northeast. Mount Albert is set 160 km (99 mi) southeast of Mount Waddington, the highest peak of the entire Coast Mountains range. The mountain was named in 1860 by Captain Richards to honor Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha (1819-1861), the husband of Queen Victoria. The name was officially adopted on May 6, 1924 when approved by the Geographical Names Board of Canada. The first ascent was made in 1929 by Arthur Tinniswood Dalton and Percy Williams Easthope.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Mount Macbeth</span> Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

Mount Macbeth is a 2,639-metre (8,658-foot) glacier-clad peak located in the Garibaldi Ranges of the Coast Mountains, in Garibaldi Provincial Park of southwestern British Columbia, Canada. It is part of the Spearhead Range, which is a subset of the Garibaldi Ranges. It is situated 14 km (9 mi) southeast of Whistler, and 2 km (1 mi) south of Tremor Mountain, which is the highest point in the Spearhead Range. The Naden Glacier spreads out below the eastern aspect of the summit, the Macbeth Glacier lies below the south aspect, and the Curtain Glacier descends the northern slope. Precipitation runoff from the peak and meltwater from its glaciers drains into Fitzsimmons Creek which is a tributary of the Cheakamus River. Macbeth is most often climbed as part of the Spearhead Traverse. The first ascent of the mountain was made in 1969 by P. Starr, E. Bass, B. Ellis, and P. Macec via the northeast ridge. The peak was named in 1964 by an Alpine Club of Canada climbing party, to commemorate the 400th anniversary of William Shakespeare's birth. The mountain's name was officially adopted on August 27, 1965, by the Geographical Names Board of Canada.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Eyebrow Peak</span> Mountain in the country of Canada

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<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jumbo Mountain (Canada)</span> Mountain in British Columbia, Canada

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References

  1. 1 2 3 4 "Mount Bute". Bivouac.com. Retrieved 2018-11-17.
  2. "Mount Bute, British Columbia". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2020-12-24.
  3. 1 2 3 "Mount Bute". Geographical Names Data Base . Natural Resources Canada . Retrieved 2018-11-17.
  4. Scott, Andrew (2009). The Encyclopedia of Raincoast Place Names: A Complete Reference to Coastal British Columbia. Madeira Park, BC: Harbor Publishing. p. 96. ISBN   978-1-55017-484-7.
  5. Robson, John (2007). "Hakluyt edition of Vancouver's journals". W. Kaye Lamb, editor, Vol. 2, p 605. Archived from the original on 2007-06-22. Retrieved 2007-07-27.
  6. Peel, M. C.; Finlayson, B. L. & McMahon, T. A. (2007). "Updated world map of the Köppen−Geiger climate classification". Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. 11. ISSN   1027-5606.
  7. "Mt. Bute, West Face, First Free Ascent". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 2014. Retrieved 2021-04-08.
  8. "Adventure on Mount Bute to Free 50-Pitch School of Rock". Gripped Magazine. Retrieved 2021-04-08.