The town is composed of two sections, known as Hollywood (formerly Cedar Bar) and Reflector Bar. These areas are connected by a single access road, with the Diablo Dam powerhouse and substation lying between the two. Because Diablo does not have a post office, it is considered part of Rockport, Washington for postal purposes. The town is accessible via Washington State Route 20, and is approximately 30 miles (48km) northeast from Rockport.
Diablo takes its name from Diablo Canyon, which was named by early prospectors and miners for the difficulty of traversing it,[3][4] or possibly after a landmark in the American Southwest.[5] Today, Diablo is known for its proximity to recreational destinations such as Diablo Lake, as well as the many trails, campgrounds, and historic sites in the area.
History
Before settlers arrived, the Kwabatsabsh people—now part of the Upper Skagit Indian Tribe—inhabited the area. Interviews with members of the Upper Skagit have helped indicate when past disasters had happened, such as a flood in 1815.[6]
Reflector Bar, a river bar located at the confluence of the Skagit River and Stetattle Creek, may have held importance to the tribe. While it is generally accepted that Stetattle means barrier or boundary in the native language, the reason for the creek's name is unclear. According to C. H. Park, a United States Forest Service supervisor in 1926, the location may have marked the border between the Kwabatsabsh people's territory and other tribes to the north,[7] while a 1941 guide book interprets Stetattle as referring to the area as a boundary between worlds, above which lies the world of ghosts in Indigenous oral tradition.[8] This latter interpretation is attested in several other publications.[4][9][10]
The first house at Cedar Bar, constructed by Lucinda Davis
A homestead was claimed by Lucinda Davis and her children at Cedar Bar, near the modern-day site of Diablo, in June 1898.[9][11] At the time, the area was accessible only via a notoriously difficult and dangerous overland trail from Newhalem.[12] The Davis family opened an inn that served hundreds of local miners, forest rangers, and hunters.[11] Their inn had modern amenities, including electricity and a radio, which was unusual for a remote location at the time.[13][11] In 1904, the Reaburn climbing party renamed what had previously been known as Stetattle Peak to Davis Peak in honor of the Davis family.[14]
Under the Forest Homestead Act of 1906, the United States Forest Service reevaluated the validity of the Davis family's claim to Cedar Bar. Their original claim of 100 acres (40ha) was reduced by the Forest Service, who proposed 40 acres (16ha) for a ranger station and other uses. The Davis family's claim was submitted for a federal land patent in 1910, and title papers granting them ownership were finally signed in 1917. In the same year, Frank Davis built the Sourdough Mountain Lookout, which was later replaced by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in 1933.[15] At the time, the CCC had a team of 18 men living in Reflector Bar.[16]
In the 1920s, Seattle City Light (also known as City Light) began to show interest in the area's hydroelectric potential, and by 1928, it had started condemnation proceedings.[11] In 1929, following surveys and expansions of the dam project that led to the Davis family losing their land, the family moved to Sedro-Woolley.[11][13] City Light later honored the family by constructing a replica of their power station, including the original waterwheel.[12]
The community of Diablo was established as a company town to support construction of Diablo Dam and other dams as part of the Skagit River Hydroelectric Project. Construction of Diablo Dam began in 1927 and was completed in 1930.[17] Diablo consists of two separate parts—Reflector Bar upstream and Hollywood (Cedar Bar) downstream—connected by one road which had previously been a rail line before being paved over. The Diablo Dam powerhouse and substation are located between the two areas.[18] Land in Hollywood remains owned by City Light, while Reflector Bar is managed by the United States Forest Service.[1]
Reflector Bar
Ranger station at Reflector Bar (1919)
Tourists on inclined railway, Reflector Bar visible in back (1930)
View from top of inclined railway (1954)
Reflector Bar, a river bar named for the small reflector shelter built there,[19] was the site of the Forest Service ranger station.[16] In 1927, the Forest Service allowed City Light to occupy the area.[18] Around late 1927 or early 1928, a railroad bridge was built over Stetattle Creek, connecting the line from Reflector Bar to Newhalem. The rails were electrified, although a steam engine was also brought in to climb the steep slope.[18][12]
By 1928, Reflector Bar had many buildings arranged in a U-shape, with a mess hall in the center. In addition to numerous cottages, ten larger four-room houses were built for the dam project's upper management. Amenities included a tennis court, a small zoo,[20][21] and a swimming pool.[22]
In 1932, two years after the dam was completed, many of the buildings were demolished. The powerhouse for the dam still needed to be constructed, so for a time, Reflector Bar housed a 300-ton crane manufactured by the Harnischfeger Corporation. In 1934, a water tower—a prominent town landmark today—was built, and the mess hall was converted into a commissary, carpenter's shop, store room, and recreational hall.[18]
In 1942, Reflector Bar may have been designated as an Aircraft Warning Service site, though it apparently was never used.[23] By the 1970s, most of the buildings had been demolished and replaced with lawns, despite earlier plans to turn the area into a wild garden.[18]
Hollywood
General view of Hollywood (1954)
The area where the Davis ranch had been located was renamed from Cedar Bar to Hollywood. At one point in the mid-1920s, around 20 shacks were scattered throughout Hollywood, possibly built by the Davis family to rent to employees before the condemnation of their land. In 1935, a building was donated for use as a school for eight children. In 1946, due to a population increase during the construction of Ross Dam, a much larger school was built.[18] The building still stands, having been converted into a dining hall, visitor center, and museum.[1]
In response to complaints from employees about the crude construction of the buildings and lack of sewer or water connections, City Light built five more houses and an apartment for ten people in 1938. By that time, only five of the original 1920s shacks still stood. In 1952, it was decided that 36 new buildings were to be built—11 in Reflector Bar, and the rest in Hollywood. Although 60 new buildings were initially planned, this was scaled down after it was determined that the old buildings could be kept. Eventually, only one of the houses built in 1938 survived.[18]
The Diablo area has a history of flooding dating back to at least 1815,[6] and after a particularly rough winter of floods leading into 1950, City Light raised the lower areas of Hollywood to an elevation of 890 feet (270m). This was done both to alleviate flood damage and prepare for the new Gorge Dam being built downstream. Also at this time, the original 1920s shacks were demolished to make way for redevelopment. The redevelopment and regrading of the Hollywood area that took place in the 1950s created much of the neighborhood that stands today. During redevelopment work, railroad tracks were removed, rail bridges paved over, roads regraded and repaved, 28 new houses built, sewer and water systems updated, and sidewalks as well as street lights installed.[18][24]
Modern-day Diablo
The Sourdough Fire from Pyramid Lake Trailhead near Diablo (2023)
In 1972, City Light decided to automate its dams, leading to the relocation of most residents and the retention of only a few essential employees. The town remains under City Light control,[12] but is now used to house National Park Service employees and employees from the North Cascades Institute, who run the nearby North Cascades Environmental Learning Center. The two organizations also work together to maintain trails in and around Diablo.[1]
From July 29 to October 1, 2023, the Sourdough Fire caused the closure of the North Cascades Highway (State Route 20) and the evacuation of recreational facilities, the three dams in the area, and the Diablo community itself.[25][26]
From 1928 until the start of World War II, City Light offered guided tours of the Skagit River Hydroelectric Project. From Rockport, visitors rode City Light's steam locomotive 23 miles (37km) to Newhalem. The next day, visitors boarded another train to Diablo, where they toured the powerhouse and rode an inclined lift to the top of the dam. The tourn continued by barge or tour boat to Ruby Creek before returning to Rockport. By 1941, more than 100,000 people had visited the Skagit Project. After the war, tours resumed in a shortened format.[32]
Since 1986, Diablo has been home to the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center. The center provides lodging, getaways, lake tours of Diablo Lake, photography and art classes, and a conference center.[33][34] The center is operated by The North Cascades Institute, which partners with City Light to offer tours of the dams and powerhouses.[35]
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