Jack Ogden | |
---|---|
Nationality | British |
Occupation | Jewellery historian |
Known for | Authentication of historic precious metal objects... [1] [2] [3] [4] |
Academic background | |
Alma mater | University of Durham |
Thesis | Gold jewellery in Ptolemaic, Roman and Byzantine Egypt (1990) |
Academic work | |
Main interests |
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Notable works | |
Notable ideas | Founding The Society of Jewellery Historians [5] |
Website | https://independent.academia.edu/OgdenJack |
Jack Ogden,FSA, [6] FGA, [7] is a British jewellery historian with a particular interest in the development of Materials and technology. He is considered one of the foremost experts in his field. [8] [9] [10] He is the current President of The Society of Jewellery Historians,having held the position since February 2018,and was appointed visiting professor of Ancient Jewellery,Material and Technology,at the Birmingham School of Jewellery Birmingham City University in 2019 [11]
Ogden was born into the fourth generation of a well-known family retail jewellery company [12] [13] based in Harrogate,North Yorkshire,but showed a strong interest in archaeology,particularly egyptology,from about the age of seven. A visit to the exhibition Tutankhamun and His Time at the Petit Palais,Paris in 1967 inspired him to study Egyptian jewellery techniques,thus blending his archaeology and jewellery backgrounds.
His first academic article,on Roman imitation diamonds, [14] was published in 1973. A detailed study of platinum group element inclusions in ancient gold objects [15] followed in 1977,that same year conversations with the late John Goodall FSA on ways to bring together academics from around the world who had an interest in the history of jewellery led to the founding of the Society of Jewellery Historians. [16] His vision here was to bring together specialists to create better understanding and dialogue between scientists and the art historians.
Ogden has written and lectured extensively on the materials and technology of ancient and historical gold jewellery and various aspects of gem history. [17] [18] [19] [20] [21] His 1982 book,Jewellery of the Ancient World,(Trefoil and Rizzoli), [22] a study of ancient Old World jewellery technology and materials,received high praise and is still considered the standard work on the subject. [23] Since then,publishers of his writings include The British Museum Press,University of California Press,Cambridge University Press,Oxford University Press,Yale University Press,the Getty Conservation Institute and several peer-reviewed journals. His books and articles are widely cited in the academic literature dealing with jewellery history and precious metals. Although primarily focussing on jewellery he has a wide interest in ancient Metals and contributed the chapter on metals in Ancient Egyptian materials and technology (Cambridge University Press,2000). [24] He has taught short courses on the history of jewellery materials and technology in London,New York,Washington D.C.,Malibu,and Stuttgart.
Ogden has made various TV appearances and radio broadcasts, [25] including interviews on historical aspects of jewellery, [26] and acted as a historical consultant and a presenter for a multi-part documentary series on sapphires by China state broadcaster Central China Television (CCTV). [27]
After leaving Tonbridge School at the age of 16,he joined the family jewellery company founded by his great-grandfather, [28] James R Ogden and Sons Ltd. He worked at both the Harrogate and London businesses until purchasing the London side of the business and the final few years of the lease in 1982,by which time he had established the Duke Street,St James's premises as a gallery specialising in ancient and historic jewellery. [29] In 1985,with the expiry of the lease,he gradually wound down his business to concentrate on consultancy work and research. [30]
He also started work on his PhD with Durham University. Although leaving formal education at sixteen and with neither A levels nor a university degree,Durham was happy to accept his 1982 book as 'equivalent qualification'. [31] His supervisor was Prof John Harris,then Chair of Egyptology and the Director of the School of Oriental Studies at Durham. As a consultant,Ogden advises Museums, [32] collectors,Auction houses [33] and others,mainly on questions of authenticity of ancient and historic precious metal objects. He approaches this work holistically believing it essential to consider style,technology and composition.
He has also retained his links with the jewellery industry and served as the Secretary General to the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) and Chief Executive of the National Association of Goldsmiths (now part of the National Association of Jewellers [34] ),a combined position (1995–2000) [35] and as Chief Executive of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (2004–2012). [36]
He was appointed to the Treasure Valuation Committee (responsible for agreeing a value on UK archaeological treasure finds) [37] in 1996 –2013,serving as vice-chairman 2007 –2013 [38] [39] He was on the Governing Board of the Egypt Exploration Society 1983 –1990. Ogden is the current Chair of British Standards (BSI) Committee STI/53 (Specifications and test methods for jewellery and horology) on which he has served from 1995 to 2000 and 2005–present. [40] He was a Trustee of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain (2015–2018). [41]
His qualifications include a doctorate from Durham University (thesis topic Gold Jewellery in Greek,Roman and Byzantine Egypt), [42] The Gemmology Diploma (FGA) [43] (with distinction) from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain and the Diploma in Art Profession Law from the Institute of Art and Law [44] (with distinction). He was Elected a Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of London (FSA) in 1980 and a life Fellow of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain in 2014. [45] [46]
Ogden attended Clifton House School in Harrogate. [47] Apart from research in his field,his interests include playing the 5-string banjo [48] and 3-D computer graphics. Before a knee injury he was an accomplished skier and briefly an instructor. He lives with his partner,Sara Abey in Henley-on-Thames,South Oxfordshire,and has three daughters.
Ogden is an author or co-author of several books and numerous articles on various aspects of the history of jewellery technology and materials,from scientific to popular. A full bibliography is available. [49] Many of his articles are available online.
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Jewellery consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and cufflinks. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a western perspective, the term is restricted to durable ornaments, excluding flowers for example. For many centuries metal such as gold often combined with gemstones, has been the normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as glass, shells and other plant materials may be used.
Gemology or gemmology is the science dealing with natural and artificial gemstone materials. It is a specific interdisciplinary branch of mineralogy. Some jewelers are academically trained gemologists and are qualified to identify and evaluate gems.
A necklace is an article of jewellery that is worn around the neck. Necklaces may have been one of the earliest types of adornment worn by humans. They often serve ceremonial, religious, magical, or funerary purposes and are also used as symbols of wealth and status, given that they are commonly made of precious metals and stones.
A brooch is a decorative jewellery item designed to be attached to garments, often to fasten them together. It is usually made of metal, often silver or gold or some other material. Brooches are frequently decorated with enamel or with gemstones and may be solely for ornament or serve a practical function as a clothes fastener. The earliest known brooches are from the Bronze Age. As fashions in brooches changed rather quickly, they are important chronological indicators. In archaeology, ancient European brooches are usually referred to by the Latin term fibula. One example is the Tara Brooch
Cloisonné is an ancient technique for decorating metalwork objects with colored material held in place or separated by metal strips or wire, normally of gold. In recent centuries, vitreous enamel has been used, but inlays of cut gemstones, glass and other materials were also used during older periods; indeed cloisonné enamel very probably began as an easier imitation of cloisonné work using gems. The resulting objects can also be called cloisonné. The decoration is formed by first adding compartments to the metal object by soldering or affixing silver or gold as wires or thin strips placed on their edges. These remain visible in the finished piece, separating the different compartments of the enamel or inlays, which are often of several colors. Cloisonné enamel objects are worked on with enamel powder made into a paste, which then needs to be fired in a kiln. If gemstones or colored glass are used, the pieces need to be cut or ground into the shape of each cloison.
A ring is a round band, usually made of metal, worn as ornamental jewelry. The term "ring" by itself denotes jewellery worn on the finger; when worn as an ornament elsewhere, the body part is specified within the term, e.g., earrings, neck rings, arm rings, and toe rings. Rings fit snugly around or in the part of the body they ornament, so bands worn loosely, like a bracelet, are not rings. Rings may be made of almost any hard material: wood, bone, stone, metal, glass, jade, gemstone or plastic. They may be set with gemstones or with other types of stone or glass.
Jewellery design is the art or profession of designing and creating jewellery. It is one of civilization's earliest forms of decoration, dating back at least 7,000 years to the oldest-known human societies in Indus Valley Civilization, Mesopotamia, and Egypt. The art has taken many forms throughout the centuries, from the simple beadwork of ancient times to the sophisticated metalworking and gem-cutting known in the modern day.
Wartski is a British family firm of antique dealers specialising in Russian works of art; particularly those by Carl Fabergé, fine jewellery and silver. Founded in North Wales in 1865, the business is located at 60 St James's Street, London, SW1. The company holds royal appointments as jewellers to Charles III, Queen Camilla and the late Queen Elizabeth II.
Gemmological Institute of India is a gemmology training school in Mumbai, India.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) is a gemmology laboratory located in Basel, Switzerland. It is a part of the Schweizerische Stiftung für Edelstein Forschung. It was founded on an independent basis, by trade organisations, on August 22, 1972. George Bosshart, mineralogist and GG was the first director after the laboratory's opening in Zürich. Diamond grading was the major task and colour stones were tested rather exceptionally. In 1980 Bosshart hired Dr. Henry A. Hänni, Mineralogist and FGA. In 1994 Hänni moved the laboratory to Basel. He has been teaching gemmology at Basel university, and the close link to the university proved to be very enriching for both parts, academic and laboratory work. Hänni became professor of gemmology at Basel University, also a reward for his years of steady research and supply of publications. Prof. H.A. Hänni retired in 2009 and Dr. Michael Krzemnicki took over his position as a director. Dr. Krzemnicki has been working for SSEF since 1999.
The Treasure Valuation Committee (TVC) is an advisory non-departmental public body of the Department for Culture, Media and Sport (DCMS) based in London, which offers expert advice to the government on items of declared treasure in England, Wales, and Northern Ireland that museums there may wish to acquire from the Crown.
The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) is an international gemmology education and qualifications body based in the United Kingdom.
The Middle Ages was a period that spanned approximately 1000 years and is normally restricted to Europe and the Byzantine Empire. The material remains we have from that time, including jewelry, can vary greatly depending on the place and time of their creation, especially as Christianity discouraged the burial of jewellery as grave goods, except for royalty and important clerics, who were often buried in their best clothes and wearing jewels. The main material used for jewellery design in antiquity and leading into the Middle Ages was gold. Many different techniques were used to create working surfaces and add decoration to those surfaces to produce the jewellery, including soldering, plating and gilding, repoussé, chasing, inlay, enamelling, filigree and granulation, stamping, striking and casting. Major stylistic phases include barbarian, Byzantine, Carolingian and Ottonian, Viking, and the Late Middle Ages, when Western European styles became relatively similar.
Hemmerle is a Munich-based jeweller founded in 1893 by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle.
The Indian Diamond Institute (IDI) is a Government of India sponsored autonomous higher school of learning in the fields of diamonds, gems and jewellery in India. The Institute is located in Surat, Gujarat, India and is 263 km away from Mumbai. Indian Diamond Institute is an Authorised Assayer of Department of Customs, Government of India.
Joanna Angelett is the artist name of Joanna Trummer, a British-Australian jewellery designer, author, founder of the worldwide anti-racism Tree of Life art project. As a designer she is best known for her sculpture-like jewellery, and as creator of desktop items of precious metals, decorated with gems and cloisonné enamels.
Charles Henry Truman, FSA, was an art historian and a leading authority on gold boxes.
Catherine Johns is a British archaeologist and museum curator. She is a specialist in Roman jewellery, Romano-British provincial art, and erotic art.
Diana Scarisbrick is an English art historian specialising in the history of engraved gems and jewellery.
Joanna Hardy is a British fine jewellery specialist, dealer and broadcaster who is a regular on BBC Antiques Roadshow and on the board of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
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