Midnight Lightning (bouldering)

Last updated • 3 min readFrom Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia

Midnight Lightning
Midnight Lightning yosemite.jpg
Michael Rael Armas on Midnight Lightning
Location Yosemite National Park
Coordinates 37°44′30″N119°36′07″W / 37.7418°N 119.602°W / 37.7418; -119.602 [1]
Climbing Area Camp 4 (Yosemite)
Route Type Bouldering
Vertical Gain7.62-metre (25.0 ft) [1]
Rating V8  (7B/7B+) [1]
First ascent Ron Kauk, 1978

Midnight Lightning is a 7.62-metre (25.0 ft) grade 7B+  (V8) bouldering problem on the granite Columbia Boulder in Camp 4 of Yosemite National Park. It is considered to be one of the world's most famous bouldering problems, and was solved by Ron Kauk in 1978. [2] [3] [4]

Contents

History

The first ascent was by Ron Kauk in 1978, and it was the second-ever ascent of a 7B+  (V8) in history; John Bachar made the first repeat shortly afterward. [5] [6] Kauk recounted about working on the problem with John Bachar and John Yablonski: "After 4 months of off and on effort, I was the first one to pull over the lip and complete the climb, which to this day has had an effect on my personal sense of place and history, within the climbing community, throughout the world". [6] The first female ascent was by Lynn Hill in 1998, although it was not the first-ever female 7B+  (V8) (which was by climber Catherine Miquel  [ fr ] in 1989 on Le Carnage). [6] [5] The second female ascent was by Lisa Rands in 2001, who unlike Hill, did not toprope the boulder in advance. [7]

The iconic chalk lightning bolt has been removed several times. Midnight Lightning erased on 5-28-19.jpg
The iconic chalk lightning bolt has been removed several times.

The problem was identified by a chalk lightning bolt drawn by John Bachar after making the second ascent in 1978. [8] [9] Bacher wrote: "It was Yabo [John Yablonski] who actually 'found' Midnight Lightning. He was sitting in front of it one day and came over to me and Ron Kauk and said he found a new boulder problem. He said it would go. We laughed and said it was impossible. We thought there was about as much chance of doing it as there was the chance that a lightning bolt could strike at midnight (like in the Hendrix song Midnight Lightning ), so I drew a bolt on it in chalk. That's it—pretty stupid, huh?" [8] In May 2013, the iconic lightning bolt was scrubbed off the face of the boulder, [10] by climber and Climbing magazine contributor James Lucas, who claimed the image had lost its magic, and was now more of a trademark or tourist attraction. [8] [11] The bolt was re-drawn in the same location a few days later. [9] Since then, there have been other incidents, but Kauk and others have repaired and maintained the bolt image regularly. [8]

In 2021, when the American Alpine Club awarded the Underhill Lifetime Achievement award to Kauk, their citation read: "Perhaps Ron's most iconic climbing achievements is a boulder problem right in the middle of Camp 4 known as Midnight Lightning". [12]

Route

Sam Moses, writing in Sports Illustrated said the most difficult move on Midnight lightning is a "spider-monkey swing 15 feet (4.6 metres) off the ground. The climber must suspend himself by the fingertips of his left hand, swing around a ledge of rock, and propel himself far enough up, about four feet, to grab a precarious fingertip hold with their right hand. To do that he has to create momentum from stillness." [13]

Filmography

Bibliography

See also

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bouldering</span> Form of rock climbing

Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help secure footholds, chalk to keep their hands dry and to provide a firmer grip, and bouldering mats to prevent injuries from falls. Unlike free solo climbing, which is also performed without ropes, bouldering problems are usually less than six metres (20 ft) tall. Traverses, which are a form of boulder problem, require the climber to climb horizontally from one end to another. Artificial climbing walls allow boulderers to climb indoors in areas without natural boulders. In addition, bouldering competitions take place in both indoor and outdoor settings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Traditional climbing</span> Style of rock climbing

Traditional climbing is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete. Traditional bolted aid climbing means the bolts were placed while on lead and/or with hand drills. Traditional climbing carries a higher level of risk than bolted sport climbing, as the climber may not have placed the safety equipment correctly while trying to ascend the route; for some of the world's hardest climbs, there may not be sufficient cracks or features in the rock that can accept protection gear, and the climb can only be safely attempted by bolting as a sport climb.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Camp 4 (Yosemite)</span> United States historic place

Camp 4 is a tent-only campground in Yosemite National Park in the United States. It became notable after World War II as "a birthplace of rock climbing’s modern age." It is located at an elevation of 4000 ft on the north side of the Yosemite Valley, close to base of granite cliffs near Yosemite Falls.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Sharma</span> American rock climber

Chris Omprakash Sharma is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of Realization/Biographie, the world's first-ever redpoint of a consensus 9a+ (5.15a) graded route, and ushered in what was called a "technical evolution" in the sport. Sharma carried the mantle of "world's strongest sport climber" from Wolfgang Gullich, and passed it to Adam Ondra.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Realization (climb)</span> Rock climb in France

Realization, also called Biographie, is a circa 35-metre (115 ft) sport climbing route on a limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap and Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of 9a+ (5.15a). It is considered an historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wolfgang Güllich</span> German rock climber

Wolfgang Güllich was a German rock climber, who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. Güllich dominated sport climbing for most of the decade after his 1984 ascent of Kanal im Rücken, the world's first-ever redpoint of an 8b (5.13d) route. He continued to set more "new hardest grade" breakthroughs than any other climber in sport climbing history, with Punks in the Gym in 1985, the world's first-ever 8b+ (5.14a), Wallstreet in 1987, the world's first-ever 8c (5.14b), and with Action Directe in 1991, the world's first-ever 9a (5.14d).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Jerry Moffatt</span> British rock climber

Jerry Moffatt, is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Free solo climbing</span> Form of climbing without protection

Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of technical ice or rock climbing where the climbers climb alone without ropes, harnesses or other protective equipment, forcing them to rely entirely on their own individual preparation, strength, and skill. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can very likely be fatal. Though many climbers have attempted free soloing, it is considered "a niche of a niche" reserved for the sport's elite, which has led many practitioners to stardom within both the media and the sport of rock climbing. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the Oscar-winning film Free Solo, Merriam-Webster officially added the word to their English dictionary in September 2019.

Lisa Rands is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in 2002. Rands was the first American female to climb boulders of grade V11 (8A), and V12 (8A+), and was the second-ever female in history to climb a 7C+/8A boulder. As well as making first female ascents (FFAs) of boulders such as The Mandala V12 (8A+), Rands was the first female in history to do an E8-graded traditional climbing route, The End of the Affair.

In the sport of rock climbing, The Mandala is a 6-metre (20 ft) high bouldering problem in the Buttermilks, a popular bouldering area near Bishop, California. It is one of the most widely known boulder problems in the world, and is graded V12 (8A+).

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Ron Kauk</span> American rock climber (born 1957)

Ron Kauk is an American rock climber. Kauk is associated with Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley, where he lived for decades, now a resident of El Portal, California.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Bachar</span> American rock climber (1957–2009)

John Bachar was an American rock climber. Noted for his skill at free soloing, he died during a free solo climb. A fitness fanatic, he was the creator of the climbing training device known as the Bachar ladder.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">John Long (climber)</span> American rock climber and author

John Long is an American rock climber and author. His stories have been translated into many languages.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">History of rock climbing</span> Key chronological milestones

In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advanced by Pierre Allain in the 1930s, and John Gill in the 1950s. Big wall climbing started in the Dolomites, and was spread across the Alps in the 1930s by climbers such as Emilio Comici and Riccardo Cassin, and in the 1950s by Walter Bonatti, before reaching Yosemite where it was led in the 1950s to 1970s by climbers such as Royal Robbins. Single-pitch climbing started pre-1900 in both the Lake District and in Saxony, and by the 1970s had spread widely with climbers such as Ron Fawcett (Britain), Bernd Arnold (Germany), Patrick Berhault (France), Ron Kauk and John Bachar (USA),

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Adam Ondra</span> Czech climber (born 1993)

Adam Ondra is a Czech professional rock climber, specializing in lead climbing and bouldering. In 2013, Rock & Ice described Ondra as a prodigy and the leading climber of his generation. Ondra is the only male athlete to have won World Championship titles in both disciplines in the same year (2014) and is also the only male athlete to have won the World Cup series in both disciplines.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Separate Reality (climb)</span> Rock climbing route, USA

Separate Reality is a 66-foot (20 m) traditional climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California. The route is known for its exposed and dramatic crux that consists of a 20-foot (6.1 m) long crack in its horizontal roof. When it was first freed by Ron Kauk in 1978, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of 7a+ (5.12a) ; Wolfgang Güllich free soloed the route in 1986.

Ron Fawcett is a British rock climber and rock climbing author who is credited with pushing the technical standards of British rock climbing in traditional, sport, bouldering and free soloing disciplines, in the decade from the mid-1970s to the mid-1980s, and of pioneering the career of being a full-time professional rock climber. At the end of the 1970s to the early 1980s, Fawcett was widely considered the best and most notable rock climber in Britain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">La Dura Dura</span> Rock climb in Spain

La Dura Dura is a 50-metre (160 ft) sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a collaboration with Czech climber Adam Ondra led to Ondra climbing the route on 7 February 2013, followed by Sharma on 23 March 2013.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Silence (climb)</span> Rock climb in Norway

Silence, is a 45-metre (148 ft) severely overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave, in Flatanger, Norway. When it was first climbed by Czech climber Adam Ondra on 3 September 2017, it became the first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of 9c (5.15d), and it is an important route in rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. As of November 2022, Silence remains unrepeated.

References

  1. 1 2 3 "Midnight Lightning V8". TheCrag. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  2. "Adam Ondra: Climbing the Americas (Part 1)—Midnight Lightning". Climbing . November 14, 2018. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  3. "Tom Herbert, 51, Sends Midnight Lightning V8 in Yosemite". Gripped.com. March 26, 2021. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  4. "Midnight Lightning: Filippo Manca explores the legendary Ron Kauk boulder problem in Yosemite". PlanetMountain. November 6, 2017. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  5. 1 2 Oviglia, Maurizio (December 23, 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved January 4, 2022.
  6. 1 2 3 "Midnight Lightning, the legendary boulder problem in Yosemite". PlanetMountain. June 9, 2017. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  7. "Second female ascent of Midnight Lightning". Climbing.de. January 17, 2001. Retrieved February 4, 2022.
  8. 1 2 3 4 Lucas, James (January 9, 2018). "Beyond the Bolt: The Past, Present, and Future of Yosemite Bouldering". Climbing . Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  9. 1 2 "Midnight Lightning". Gripped.com. December 26, 2016. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  10. "Midnight Lightning bolt, the icon of free climbing in Yosemite disappears for a day". PlanetMountain.com. May 7, 2013. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  11. "TNB: Erasing Midnight Lightning". Rock & Ice . 2013.
  12. "MEET THE AWARDEES". American Alpine Club . 2021. Retrieved February 3, 2022.
  13. Moses, Sam (June 2, 1986). "On The Rocks, Kauk Is It". Sports Illustrated . Retrieved May 9, 2013.