Tarakasi is a type of silver filigree work from Cuttack, a city in Odisha in the eastern part of India.
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Tarakasi is a type of silver filigree work from Cuttack, a city in Odisha in the eastern part of India.
This highly skilled art form is more than 500 years old and is traditionally done by local artisans on the eastern shores of Odisha. [1] Presently, the silver filigree workers are largely from the district of Cuttack, where the art flourishes.
The filigree artists work with an alloy of 90% or more pure silver. [2] First, the lump of silver is placed into a small clay pot and the two are put into a bucket full of hot coals. The temperature is regulated through a bellows that is hand operated by a crank.
The melting process takes about ten minutes and then the silver is poured into a small, rod-like mold and cooled by submerging the rod in water. It is then placed into a machine that will press the rod into a long, thin wire. This tedious and physically demanding process had been done traditionally by hand and took two men to turn the crank.
Once the silver is pressed into a flat, workable wire, the wire itself can first be hand carved with intricate designs or immediately smoldered by a small kerosene fire, with one artist directing the small flame with a tube held in his mouth into which he can blow. This process makes it easier for the artisan to mold the wire into the desired frame for the piece before it is cooled. Next the wires are strung together and twisted and shaped into a design by the artist's precise fingers. Soldering is done by placing the piece into a mixture of borax powder and water, sprinkling soldering powder on it, and then placing it once again under the small flame. This insures that the detail of the design will stay intact.
Once this is done, the artist will take the warm piece and shape it into an ornament. Techniques such as granulation, snow glazing and casting are used in innovative ways to heighten the effect. Artisan Jagdish Mishra, speaking of the techniques employed says, "The tastes of the customers keep changing and artists must be up to date with to keep up with emerging trends". Such new methods and experimentation are increasingly being employed to produce highly polished and refined artifacts in keeping with the demands of customers. Platinum polishing is done to give a more lasting shine, whereas fusion of silver and brass or other materials is done to create interesting effects.
Forms of animals, birds, flowers and even miniature handbags and other souvenirs are made in Tarakasi work. The Konark Chakra and temple are great favourites as mementos. Scenes from the Mahabharata, in particular the still from the Bhagavad Gita depicting the chariot of Arjuna driven by Lord Krishna are quite popular. Over the years various famous monuments like the Taj Mahal, Eiffel Tower, and others have been made, garnering accolades from admirers of fine arts.
The filigree jewelry is particularly rich in patterns. In Odisha, the stress is on arm jewellery, necklaces, toe rings and especially anklets, which are a great favorite. They are considered auspicious as well. Intricate anklets, combining use of semi-precious stones are greatly preferred.
Vermilion boxes, brooches, pendants, earrings and hairpins are in great demand. A vermilion box is must in any Oriya marriage, but this tradition dying out. Waist bands made from Tarakasi work were used traditionally in the marriage. Oriya marriages are incomplete without Tarakasi anklets and toe rings. [3]
The jewelry worn in Odissi, one of the Indian classical dances originating from Odisha, are made from Tarakasi work. These ornaments adorn the head, ear, neck, hands, fingers and waist of the dancer. The ornaments include a choker, padaka-tilaka (a long necklace), bahichudi or tayila (armlets), kankana (bracelets), a mekhalaa' (belt), anklets, bells, kapa (earrings) and a seenthi (ornament work on the hair and forehead). These ornaments are embellished with natural un-cut stones lined with silver and gold.
The introduction of the Sharadiya Utsav tradition in the city dates back to the visit of Chaitanya Mahaprabhu, a Hindu saint, in the 16th century when the consecration of the idol of Durga by using the mask pattern was conducted in his presence at Binod Behari Devi Mandap.
Every year, during Durga Puja in Cuttack, Tarakasi jewellery is used at many pandals to embellish the idols of Durga. One of the most famous idols is the one at Chandni Chowk, where the entire crown and accessories of Durga are made of silver, popularly known as Chaandi Medha. Other pandals using Tarakasi are Chauliaganj, Choudhury Bazar, Khan Nagar, Banka Bazar, Dargaah Bazaar, Balu Bazar, etc.
Every year more than 150 filigree artisans are engaged in making backdrop and ornament design. [4] The style was introduced at the Choudhury Bazaar puja pandal with a 250 kg (550 lb) chandi medha in 1956. Following suit, Sheikh Bazaar puja mandap installed a 350 kg (770 lb) chandi medha in 1991. In 2004, Ranihat puja committee joined the elite group with a 483 kg (1,065 lb) of silver filigree backdrop, jewellery and weaponry. In the following year, Haripur-Dolamundai puja committee superseded Ranihat when it installed 500 kg (1,100 lb) silver filigree. In 2006, the Sheikh Bazaar committee remodeled a new backdrop using 450 kg (990 lb) of silver. Chandini Chowk, Sheikh Bazaar, Alisha Bazaar, Chauliaganj, Badambadi, Ranihat, Haripur-Dolamundai and Balu Bazaar-Binod Behari puja committees are vouching for the filigree work. There is a competition to notch the best show every year among all puja committees in Cuttack. [5]
Jewellery consists of decorative items worn for personal adornment such as brooches, rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants, bracelets, and cufflinks. Jewellery may be attached to the body or the clothes. From a western perspective, the term is restricted to durable ornaments, excluding flowers for example. For many centuries metal such as gold often combined with gemstones, has been the normal material for jewellery, but other materials such as glass, shells and other plant materials may be used.
Odissi, also referred to as Orissi in old literature, is a major ancient Indian classical dance that originated in the temples of Odisha – an eastern coastal state of India. Odissi, in its history, was performed predominantly by women, and expressed religious stories and spiritual ideas, particularly of Vaishnavism through songs written and composed according to the ragas & talas of Odissi music by ancient poets of the state. Odissi performances have also expressed ideas of other traditions such as those related to Hindu deities Shiva and Surya, as well as Hindu goddesses (Shaktism).
Bhubaneswar is the capital and second largest city of the Indian state of Odisha after Cuttack. It is located in the Khordha district. It is a modern sports hub and emerging IT hub. The suburban region, especially the old town, was historically often depicted as Chakra Khetra and Ekamra Khetra. Bhubaneswar is dubbed the "Temple City", a nickname earned because of many temples which are standing there.
An anklet, also called ankle chain, ankle bracelet or ankle string, is an ornament worn around the ankle. Barefoot anklets and toe rings historically have been worn for at least over 8,000 years by girls and women in Indus Valley, in South Asia where it is commonly known as pattilu, payal, golusu and sometimes as nupur. They have also been worn by Egyptian women since predynastic times. In the United States both casual and more formal anklets became fashionable from the 1930s to the late–20th century. While in Western popular culture both younger men and women may wear casual leather anklets, they are popular among barefoot women. Formal anklets are used by some women as fashion jewellery. Anklets are an important piece of jewellery in Indian marriages, worn along with saris.
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Cuttack, is the former capital and the largest city in the Indian state of Odisha. It is the headquarters of the Cuttack district. The name of the city is an anglicised form of the Odia and Sanskrit name Kataka which literally means The Fort, a reference to the ancient Barabati Fort around which the city initially developed. Cuttack is known as the Millennium City as well as the Silver City due to its history of 1000 years and famous silver filigree works. The Orissa High Court is located there and the city is judiciary capital of Odisha. It is the commercial capital of Odisha which hosts many trading and business houses in and around the city. Cuttack is famous for its Durga Puja which is one of the most important festivals of Odisha. Being the favourite destination of poets and artists, it is also the cultural capital of Odisha. Due to its beauty, the term Kataka Nagara Dhabala Tagara is coined for it. The city is categorised as a Tier-II city as per the ranking system used by Government of India.
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