Kotpad Handloom fabric | |
---|---|
Geographical indication | |
Alternative names | Kotpad Handloom fabric |
Type | Handloom fabric |
Area | Kotpad, Koraput district, Odisha |
Country | India |
Material | Fabric |
Kotpad Handloom is a vegetable-dyed fabric woven by the tribal weavers of the Mirgan community of Kotpad village in Koraput district, Odisha, India. Cotton sarees with solid border and Pata Anchal, duppatta with typical Buties / motifs, Scolrfs on cotton, silk, handloom stoles, and dress materials are all dyed with organic dyes. The natural dye is manufactured from the aul tree grown in this area. [1] The Kotpad tussar silk saree with tribal art and Kotpad handloom fabrics with natural color is its specialty.
Kotpad handloom fabric is the first item from Odisha that received the Geographical Indication of India tag, [2] in 2005. [3] The Mirgan community of Kotpad is famous for their exquisite organic dyed textile. They usually weave this textile for "Bhotada", "Dharua" and other motifs of their neighboring tribal communities.
Recently, Biswanath Rath, an Indian Writer-Director, has made an English Documentary titled 'Kotpad Weaving : The Story of a Race Against Time' about Kotpad Handloom, dyeing and weaving which has been produced by PSBT in association with Doordarshan. [4] This documentary was telecasted on DD National on 24 March 2018. The film explores the uniqueness of Kotpad Handloom, the issues and possible solutions for revival of Kotpad Weaving and Dyeing. [5]
In 2018, Gobardhan Panika, one of the master weavers of the craft, was honored by the Government of India with the fourth highest civilian honor of the Padma Shri. [6]
Cotton yarn, Tussar silk and Aul tree roots are the main materials used for textile work. Using organic dye is the most important aspect of these textile products. It takes approximately 15 to 30 days for processing the color and dyeing threads into different colors. The main colors extracted are black and maroon. Sarees and shawls are the most important and attractive textile products from the Kotpad weaving community. The textiles are very comfortable to wear during summer and winter. [7]
The characteristics of natural dye colouring are derived from the aul tree or madder dye ( Morinda citrifolia ) extracted from the root of the Indian madder tree. Since it is prepared out of natural resources which are non-toxic, the dye is not harmful to the skin. Even though it is only a limited colour range, it is eco-friendly and shades developed are very suiting and pleasant. The colours ranging from deep maroon to dark brown depend on the age of the root bark and the proportion of the dye used and is obtained with the addition of harikari or iron sulphate. These colours mixed with the natural unbleached off-white color of the cotton yarn produce dramatic results. The motifs used on the fabric are conch, boat, axes, crab, bow, temple, fish, and fan, which reflect the culture of the area. These motifs are developed by the extra wefts. By use of multi-shuttle by interlocking method, a solid border effect of the fabric is brought up by the pig by pig insertion of thread.
Muslin is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It is commonly believed that it gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq.
A sari is a women's garment from the Indian subcontinent. It consists of an un-stitched stretch of woven fabric arranged over the body as a robe, with one end attached to the waist, while the other end rests over one shoulder as a stole (shawl), sometimes baring a part of the midriff. It may vary from 4.1 to 8.2 metres in length, and 60 to 120 centimetres in breadth, and is a form of ethnic wear in India, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan. There are various names and styles of sari manufacture and draping, the most common being the Nivi style. The sari is worn with a fitted bodice also called a choli and a petticoat called ghagra, parkar, or ul-pavadai. It remains fashionable in the Indian subcontinent today.
Ikat is a dyeing technique from Southeast Asia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In Southeast Asia, where it is the most widespread, ikat weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among Daic-speaking peoples. The second, larger group is found among the Austronesian peoples and spread via the Austronesian expansion to as far as Madagascar. It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ikat originates. Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including India, Central Asia, Japan, Africa, and the Americas.
Khadi, derived from khaddar, is a hand-spun and woven natural fibre cloth promoted by Mahatma Gandhi as swadeshi (self-sufficiency) for the freedom struggle of the Indian subcontinent, and the term is used throughout India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The first piece of the hand-woven cloth was manufactured in the Sabarmati Ashram during 1917–18. The coarseness of the cloth led Gandhi to call it khadi. The cloth is made from cotton, but it may also include silk or wool, which are all spun into yarn on a charkha. It is a versatile fabric that remains cool in summer and warm in winter. To improve its appearance, khadi is sometimes starched to give it a stiffer feel. It is widely accepted in various fashion circles.
A Banarasi sari is a sari made in Varanasi, an ancient city which is also called Benares (Banaras). The saris are among the finest saris in India and are known for their gold and silver brocade or zari, fine silk and opulent embroidery. The saris are made of finely woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs, and, because of these engravings, are relatively heavy.
Kotpad is a town and a notified area committee in Koraput district in the Indian state of Odisha. Nearest railway station to Kotpad is Kotpad Road station which is a part of East Coast railway.
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Tussar silk is produced from larvae of several species of silkworms belonging to the moth genus Antheraea, including A. assamensis, A. paphia, A. pernyi, A. roylei, and A. yamamai. These silkworms live in the wild forests in trees belonging to Terminalia species and Shorea robusta, as well as other food plants such as jamun and oak found in South Asia, eating the leaves of the trees on which they live. Tussar silk is valued for its rich texture and natural, deep-gold colour, and varieties are produced in many countries, including China, India, Japan, and Sri Lanka.
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Baluchari Sari is a type of sari, a garment worn by women in the Indian states of West Bengal, Tripura and Assam and the country of Bangladesh. This particular type of sari originated in West Bengal and is known for depictions of mythological scenes on the anchal of the sari. It used to be produced in Murshidabad but presently Bishnupur and its surrounding areas of West Bengal are the only place where authentic Baluchari saris are produced. It takes approximately one week to produce one such sari. In 2011, the Baluchari Sari was granted the status of Geographical Indication for West Bengal in India.
Pochampally sari or Pochampalli ikat is a saree made in Bhoodan Pochampally, Yadadri Bhuvanagiri district, Telangana State, India. They have traditional geometric patterns in "Paagadu Bandhu" (Ikat) style of dyeing. The intricate geometric designs find their way into sarees and dress materials. The Indian government's official airplane company, Air India, has its cabin crew wear specially designed Pochampally silk sarees.
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