| Gopalpur Tussar Fabrics | |
|---|---|
| Geographical indication | |
 | |
| Alternative names | ଗୋପାଳପୁର ଟସର ବସ୍ତ୍ର |
| Type | Handloom, Fabric |
| Area | Gopalpur, Jajpur district, Odisha |
| Country | India |
| Material | Handloom |
Gopalpur is a village known for producing Tussar fabrics. It is in Jajpur District in the Indian state of Odisha. This handicraft received the Geographical Indication tag by the Government of India in 2009. Tussar textiles are related to dhoti, joda, Shawl stole, scarves and saris. [1]
The process starts with drafting and crafting[ clarification needed ]
Females usually assist in reeling the tussar threads holding 'natai'[ what language is this? ] in their right hand and unwinding the thread around the cocoons with their other hand. Twisting the filament, the weaver winds the yarns on the wooden 'natai' at a continuous speed. Embellishments are done by hand, either with extra weft or extra warp with a 'bandha'[ what language is this? ] pattern in hand. The embellishments increase the value of the fabric. Alternatively, reeling machines are available.
Traditionally, thread is wound around the chadaki[ what language is this? ] to fill the bobins (nali) for weft with the help of a spinning wheel (charakha). Gandhi charakha or wooden charakha have been replaced by a metal part.
Fabric is woven using a 'cut shuttle technique', in which shuttles interlock with one another to form foda kumbha in the weft direction. Shuttles on both sides interlock with the main shuttle for the main body of the fabric. By tie and die bandha technique, the foda kumbha pattern is copied for multiple productions.
Threads are dyed in different shades, such as maroon, red, plum and rust. Fabrics are designed in tussar and gheecha[ what language is this? ] and enhanced with a weft and cut shuttle technique.
Fabrics are mainly marketed by PWCS and SHGs[ clarification needed ] traders through the Boyanika (OSHWCS), Sambalpuri Bastralaya, SERIFED, Pvt. traders. Sales also take place at exhibitions and in local markets. According to a 2013-14 survey, 745 looms operate in this cluster. Around 5,000 people are dependent on this industry for income. [2]
A loom is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic purpose of any loom is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but the basic function is the same.
Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft, woof, or filling. The method in which these threads are interwoven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band that meets this definition of cloth can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques that can be done without looms.
Ikat is a dyeing technique originating from Indonesia used to pattern textiles that employs resist dyeing on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric.
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Damask is a reversible patterned fabric of silk, wool, linen, cotton, or synthetic fibers, with a pattern formed by weaving. Damasks are woven with one warp yarn and one weft yarn, usually with the pattern in warp-faced satin weave and the ground in weft-faced or sateen weave. Twill damasks include a twill-woven ground or pattern.
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The manufacture of textiles is one of the oldest of human technologies. To make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fiber from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving, which turns yarn into cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. For decoration, the process of colouring yarn or the finished material is dyeing. For more information of the various steps, see textile manufacturing.
Textile manufacturing is one of the oldest human activities. The oldest known textiles date back to about 5000 B.C. In order to make textiles, the first requirement is a source of fibre from which a yarn can be made, primarily by spinning. The yarn is processed by knitting or weaving to create cloth. The machine used for weaving is the loom. Cloth is finished by what are described as wet process to become fabric. The fabric may be dyed, printed or decorated by embroidering with coloured yarns.
A Sambalpuri sari is a traditional handwoven bandha (ikat) sari wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving. It is produced in the Sambalpur, Balangir, Bargarh, Boudh and Sonepur districts of Odisha, India. The sari is a traditional female garment in the Indian subcontinent consisting of a strip of unstitched cloth ranging from four to nine metres in length that is draped over the body in various styles.
Carpets and rugs have been handmade in Sweden for centuries, taking on many different forms and functions over the course of time. Rugs woven in the traditional Oriental manner, especially in the Ottoman Empire and points east, were originally brought to Sweden over trade routes as early as the early Middle Ages. In the centuries that followed, Swedish rug-makers often infused their works with themes and motifs traditionally found in Oriental rugs. Eventually, Swedish rug-makers would begin to use Oriental rug-making techniques, but themes and motifs more consistent with the artistic and cultural heritage of Sweden. By the early modern periods, rugs had long been an important avenue of art – especially folk art – in Swedish culture. By the beginning of the twentieth century, the craft was seen as being an important artistic and cultural practice throughout Sweden, and designers began to make rugs that had a broad international appeal. Swedish rugs from the mid-twentieth century remain among the most desirable and sought after in the rug world.
Handloom saris are a traditional textile art of Bangladesh and India. The production of handloom saris are important for economic development in rural India.
Odisha Ikat, is a kind of ikat known as Bandhakala and Bandha, a resist dyeing technique, originating from Indian state of Odisha. Traditionally known as "Bandhakala"', "Bandha", '"Bandha of Odisha", it is a geographically tagged product of Odisha since 2007. It is made through a process of tie-dying the warp and weft threads to create the design on the loom prior to weaving. It is unlike any other ikat woven in the rest of the country because of its design process, which has been called "poetry on the loom". This design is in vogue only at the western and eastern regions of Odisha; similar designs are produced by community groups called the Bhulia, Kostha Asani, and Patara. The fabric gives a striking curvilinear appearance. Saris made out of this fabric feature bands of brocade in the borders and also at the ends, called anchal or pallu. Its forms are purposefully feathered, giving the edges a "hazy and fragile" appearance. There are different kinds of bandha saris made in Odisha, notably Khandua, Sambalpuri, Pasapali, Kataki and Manibandhi.
Kotpad Handloom is a vegetable-dyed fabric woven by the tribal weavers of the Mirgan community of Kotpad village in Koraput district, Odisha, India. Cotton sarees with solid border and Pata Anchal, duppatta with typical Buties / motifs, Scolrfs on cotton, silk, handloom stoles, and dress materials are all dyed with organic dyes. The natural dye is manufactured from the aul tree grown in this area. The Kotpad tussar silk saree with tribal art and Kotpad handloom fabrics with natural color is its specialty.
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