Aztec clothing was worn by the Aztec people and varied according to aspects such as social standing and gender. The garments worn by Aztecs were also worn by other pre-Columbian peoples of central Mexico who shared similar cultural characteristics. The strict sumptuary laws in Aztec society dictated the type of fiber, ornamentation, and manner of wear of Aztec clothing. [1] Clothing and cloth were immensely significant in the culture.
Cloth and clothing were of utmost importance to the Aztec people during the height of the empire. This importance is seen when noting the processes of making the garments and how these fibers were a key part of the social structure of the Aztecs. [2] These assets were paramount in the culture as they served as both an essential market good and a significant tribute item. [3] As discussed by scholar Ross Hassig, the Codex Mendoza denotes that cloth and clothing were represented as cargas in the tribute system. [4] The cloth given as tribute or used in tribute ceremonies is estimated to be around 250,000 pieces of these fibers during the entirety of the Aztec Empire. [3] Cloth and clothing ranging from fancy to plain was the most widely distributed item for a tribute during the time of the Spanish conquest, however, almost none of these textiles from before the conquest still survive to this day. [5] Much of the art produced in the Aztec Empire before the Spanish invasion had ceased to be produced, except for the clothing. [5]
Scholars were able to identify key elements of clothing due to their elaborate depiction in manuscripts that were made with a pictographic system. [2] Cloth and clothing were crucial to people of all social statuses within the empire, people of varying social standings, ranging from the commoners to the nobles would have both this abundance of clothing for negotiating their status and social standing within the empire. [3] Not only were the fibers used to negotiate social standing but it was also exchanged to mark significant events in one's life, such as marriage, births, or even death. [3] These fibers were used to mark such events because of the extent of the contribution of labor that was needed in order to construct these pieces. [6]
Different types of fibers held different levels of prestige among the social groups of the Aztec people. Cloth and its many distinct implications give way to its notability within Aztec society in relation to facets such as both gender and ethnic identity, as well as a ritualistic and social function. [6] The significance of the weaving process of making clothing is also seen in the motifs and iconography made that is present in other art produced. One primary example is seen in the incorporation of the weaving tool in the custom of specific deities. [2]
Over time the original, predominantly kin-ship-based style of textile production gave way to more workshop and class-based production. [7] Producing the fibers to make clothing was a highly gendered operation. [3] The way that weaving of cloth was embedded into the lives of women in the Aztec empire can be seen in the toys that female children received, and in that they had their weaving equipment buried with them when they died. [3]
Cotton was significant in the Aztec culture. It was not only used in making clothing, but also in religious offerings, marriage payments, and mummification.
There was a tremendous process of bringing the cotton from the fields then through marketplaces to end up in the homes of the individuals who would spin and weave the fibers into actual clothing. [8] Each household was responsible for their own weaving and production of fibers as well as creating the clothing that would be used for tribute. [2]
Within the Aztec Empire, there were five different articles of clothing constituting the very basic garments. These consisted of a draped garment, slip-on garment, open-sewn garment, closed sewn garment, and limb-encasing garments. [2] The basic garment and braw for males was called maxtlatl [9] [ˈmaːʃt͡ɬat͡ɬ] in Nahuatl. This garment is like a loincloth and was worn by Aztec men of all social standings within the empire. [2] The maxtlatl would often be worn under a cloak or cape called tilmahtli [2] [tilˈmaʔt͡ɬi] (also called tilma in Spanish and English). Various styles of tilmatli existed which served to indicate the status of the wearer. [10]
Only the individuals that were considered high-ranking were allowed to wear cotton clothing and mantles usually decorated with color and feathers while in contrast, the average warrior would only be allowed to wear very plain mantles. [2] File:Vestimenta Femenina Mexica.svg a: young wearing only a maxtlatl; b: common people (Macehualtin) dress; c: noble (Pipiltin) or high ranking warrior dress; d: ruling classes and the clergy; e: less common way to wear the tilmatli; f: war dress.
Aztec women wore a blouse called huīpīlli [11] [wiːˈpiːɬːi] (also called huipil in Spanish and English) and a long skirt [10] called cuēitl [ˈkʷeːit͡ɬ] (referred to as enredo in modern times). Women kept their skirt on them with a sash [11] called a cihua necuitlalpiloni [ˈsiwanekʷit͡ɬaɬpilˈu˕ni] . [12] In the Classical Nahuatl language, the couplet cuēitl huīpīlli "skirt [and] blouse" was used metaphorically to mean "woman". [9]
The Aztecs wore different clothing depending on their age. [13] Children younger than three wore no clothes. [13] From age three and up, girls wore blouses and boys wore capes. [13] From age four and up, girls additionally wore short skirts. [13] The clothing worn by girls were a typically simplified version of the clothing that would have been worn by their mothers. [2] From age five and up, the girls' short skirts was replaced with a longer skirts. [13] At age 13, boys finally started wearing loin cloths. [13]
Sandals, called cactli [ˈkakt͡ɬi] , were a sign of status. They were largely restricted to noble males. Those who entered temples or appeared before the emperor were required to be barefoot.
As compared to the everyday dress of the people within the Aztec empire, the sumptuary laws within the empire held the dress of different classes to distinct standards. [14] Within the highly controlled environment surrounding clothing, social status relating to occupation and class was highly reflected in the clothing that was worn. [2] The social distinction between each level of the Aztec people was well-defined and this can be seen in the clothing worn. [15] Scholars know of around twenty specific outfits that the high-level aristocratic people of the Empire would be allowed to wear in addition to the other twenty outfit types that are shown for the lower-level elites. [15] The elites of the empire wore fibers such as linen as compared to the wool of the common people, this linen allowed for greater comfort in warmer weather. [14] For colder weather that would be experienced, the linen fibers were intertwined with other multi-colored threads that also helped show the wealth acquired by these elite individuals. [14]
As well as social status is shown by the type of fibers used for the clothing worn by the elite, the inclusion of other luxurious goods within the clothing was used as well. Items such as turquoise, jade, gold, feathers, and shells were intertwined within the fibers of the clothing to showcase the luxuries that the individual was able to obtain as well as show the power that they had. [14]
Specifically seen more in the clothing worn by the elite, a hip cloth, called xiuht- lulpill, was among the most highly worn and prestigious pieces of clothing for the elite. [14] This particular hip cloth also included turquoise which relates to the overall importance and esteem that came with these garments. [14]
The dress for Aztec royalty also varied from the dress for the elites. According to scholar Patricia Rieff Anawalt, the clothing worn by the Aztec royalty was the most lavish of all the garments worn by the Aztec people. [16] Their elaborate dress was also worn in combination with embellishments of jewelry, particularly in ceremonial occasions. [14] One of the primary distinctions would be the fact that their clothing features aspects such as insignias as well as displaying even more of the turquoise material. [14] In peacetime, the Aztec emperor would wear a unique garment that consisted of a blue and white mantle that included the royal insignia. [15]
Different hairstyles worn by Aztec people also strictly follow the sumptuary laws. Aztec women wore hair in two braids that projected in the front like horns [11] and this hairstyle was called neaxtlāhualli [neɑʃtɬɑːˈwɑɬːi] . [11] Women sometimes create a purple highlight in their hair with an herb called xiuhquílitl, and sometimes they shave their hair completely. [17] Young boys before the age of 10 are required to shave their head, and by the age of 10 they are allowed to grow their hair on the back of their head. [17] Men commonly kept their hair cut to neck length, sometimes with a fringe. High-ranking warriors would wear their hair in a style called temillotl, which translates into "Column of Stone". [2]
| Types of Aztec Earplugs Nacochtli [naˈkot͡ʃt͡ɬi] [12] | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| E | N | IPA | English | Nahuatl | Notes | |
| gold | teōcuitlatl | [teoːˈkʷit͡ɬat͡ɬ] | golden earplugs | teocuitlanacochtli | especially prestigious | |
| teōxihuitl | [teoːˈʃiwit͡ɬ] | turquoise earplugs | xiuhnacochtli | especially prestigious | ||
| June Beetle | mayātl | [ˈmajaːt͡ɬ] | green June Beetle earplugs | mayananacochtli | ||
| obsidian | ītztli | [ˈiːt͡st͡ɬi] | obsidian earplugs | itznacochtli | more common, less prestigious | |
| leather | cuetlaxtli | [kʷeˈt͡ɬaʃt͡ɬi] | leather earplugs | cuetlaxnacochtli | awarded to warriors of higher ranks | |
| quetzal | quetzalli | [keˈt͡salːi] | curved green ear pendants with bells | quetzalcoyolnacochtli | given to merchants who participated in a conquest | |
| reed | ācatl | [ˈaːkat͡ɬ] | reed earplugs | acanacochtli | ||
| mud | zoquitl | [ˈsokit͡ɬ] | pottery earplugs | zoquinacochtli | ||
| mirror | tēzcatl | [ˈteːskat͡ɬ] | mirror-stone earplugs | tezcanacochtli | ||
| workable metal | tepoztli | [teˈpost͡ɬi] | copper earplugs | tepoznacochtli | ||
| crystal | tehuīlōtl | [teˈwiːloːt͡ɬ] | crystal earplugs | tehuilonacochtli | ||
| wood | cuahuitl | [ˈkʷawit͡ɬ] | wooden earplugs | cuauhnacochtli | ||
| amber | apozonalli | [aposoˈnalːi] | amber earplugs | apozonalnacochtli | ||
The Aztec (women and men) would tend to always decorate themselves with gold bangles, necklaces, chokers, etc. Such jewelry was worn to show how wealthy one was; lower class Aztec would tend to wear less jewelry than an Aztec of higher placing and wealth.
The jewelry worn by the Aztec people was rich in variety. Aztecs perfected metalworking to a great art. Gold and silver jewelry was worn alongside ornaments made of feathers, shells, leather, and stones. Among the Aztecs, laws about which ornaments could be worn were strictly enforced. Only royalty could wear headdresses with gold and quetzal (a bird with brilliant blue-green feathers that reach three feet in length) feathers, for example.
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All warriors wore loincloths, and basic military armor called ichcahuipilli. When they were recognized by the state for their bravery in battle, their status increased (regardless of original class) and they were rewarded with shell and glass beaded jewelry. If the warrior was more honored or a higher rank, they would wear battle suits called Tlahuiztli; these suits were distinctively decorated for prestigious warriors and members of warrior societies. They served as a way to identify warriors according to their achievements in battle as well as rank, alliance, and social status like priesthood or nobility.
The ranking and status of the Aztec warriors were influenced by how many captives or prisoners the individual warrior had taken, the higher the number the more decorated their dress would be. [15] Usually made to work as a single piece of clothing with an opening in the back, they covered the entire torso and most of the extremities of a warrior, and offered added protection to the wearer. The tlahuiztli was made with elements of animal hide, leather, and cotton. There is a lack of information known to scholars about the particulars of the cotton armor, although reported by scholar Frances F. Berdan these quilted cotton armor may have been carried and sold on the battlefield. [8]
Covered in feathers, the garment called Ehuatl was a closed sewn garment that would be used in signify the rank of the warriors in a specific cadre of warriors. [2] In addition to the fiber worn, warriors were also allowed to wear sandals as they progressed through the ranks. Additionally, some of these customs would include headdresses. These headdresses often resemble a coyote, jaguar, or frightful specter. [2]
Traditional Japanese fashion represents a long-standing history of traditional culture, encompassing colour palettes developed in the Heian period, silhouettes adopted from Tang dynasty clothing and cultural traditions, motifs taken from Japanese culture, nature and traditional literature, the use of types of silk for some clothing, and styles of wearing primarily fully-developed by the end of the Edo period. The most well-known form of traditional Japanese fashion is the kimono, with the term kimono translating literally as "something to wear" or "thing worn on the shoulders". Other types of traditional fashion include the clothing of the Ainu people and the clothes of the Ryukyuan people which is known most notably including the traditional fabrics of bingata and bashōfu produced on the Ryukyu Islands.
A loincloth or breechcloth is a one-piece male garment, sometimes kept in place by a belt, knots, laces, safety pins, velcro straps, buttons, snaps, buckles, zippers or hook-and-eye closures and worn as outer clothing or in the external environment. Typical components include front and back pockets, a little change pocket, belt loops and an elastic waistband. It covers the genitals and, at least partially, sometimes the buttocks, the area covered by the loincloth. Historically, the loincloth can be worn dependent upon the weather, wearer, and setting. Often, they are wrapped around the bottom and between the legs.
Eagle warriors or eagle knights were a special class of infantry soldier in the Aztec army, one of the two leading military special forces orders in Aztec society, the other being the Jaguar warriors. They were a type of Aztec warrior called a cuāuhocēlōtl. The word cuāuhocēlōtl derives from the eagle warrior cuāuhtli and the jaguar warrior ocēlōtl. These military orders were made up of the bravest soldiers of noble birth and those who had taken the greatest number of prisoners in battle. Of all of the Aztec warriors, they were the most feared. Eagle warriors, along with the jaguar warriors, were the only such classes that did not restrict access solely to the nobility, as commoners or, in Nahuatl, "mācēhualli" Nahuatl pronunciation:[maːseːwalːi] were occasionally admitted for special merit.
The quechquemitl is a garment which has been worn by certain indigenous ethnicities in Mexico since the pre-Hispanic period. It usually consists of two pieces of rectangular cloth, often woven by hand, which is sewn together to form a poncho or shawl like garment, which is usually worn hanging off the shoulders. It can be constructed of various different fabrics, often with intricate weaves, and is typically highly decorated, most often with embroidery.
Huipil is the most common traditional garment worn by indigenous women from central Mexico to Central America.
Serbian traditional clothing, also called as Serbian national costume or Serbian dress, refers to the traditional clothing worn by Serbs living in Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and the extended Serbian diaspora communities in Austria, Australia, Bulgaria, Canada, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, North Macedonia, Romania, Russia, Slovenia, United States, etc. Like any traditional dress of a nation or culture, it has been lost to the advent of urbanization, industrialization, and the growing market of international clothing trends. The wide range of regional folk costumes show influence from historical Austrian, Hungarian, German, Italian, and Ottoman Turkish presence. Nonetheless, the costumes are still a pinnacle part of Serbian folk culture. From the 19th century and onwards, Serbs have adopted western-styled clothing. This change has started in larger settlements such as cities and towns, although it was not uncommon to see rural women in traditional working costumes all the way until the end of 1970s. Today, these national costumes are only worn by some elderly in rural areas but are most often worn with connection to special events and celebrations, mostly at ethnic festivals, religious and national holidays, weddings, tourist attractions, and by dancing groups who dance the traditional Serbian kolo, or circle dance.
Maya textiles (k’apak) are the clothing and other textile arts of the Maya peoples, indigenous peoples of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador and Belize. Women have traditionally created textiles in Maya society, and textiles were a significant form of ancient Maya art and religious beliefs. They were considered a prestige good that would distinguish the commoners from the elite. According to Brumfiel, some of the earliest weaving found in Mesoamerica can date back to around 1000-800 B.C.E.
The study of the history of clothing and textiles traces the development, use, and availability of clothing and textiles over human history. Clothing and textiles reflect the materials and technologies available in different civilizations at different times. The variety and distribution of clothing and textiles within a society reveal social customs and culture.
The preservation of fabric fibers and leathers allows for insights into the attire of ancient societies. The clothing used in the ancient world reflects the technologies that these peoples mastered. In many cultures, clothing indicated the social status of various members of society.
Outside Western cultures, men's clothing commonly includes skirts and skirt-like garments; however, in the Americas and much of Europe, skirts are usually seen as feminine clothing and socially stigmatized for men and boys to wear, despite having done so for centuries. While there are exceptions, most notably the cassock and the kilt, these are not really considered 'skirts' in the typical sense of fashion wear; rather they are worn as cultural and vocational garments. People have variously attempted to promote the fashionable wearing of skirts by men in Western culture and to do away with this gender distinction.
Khmer traditional clothing refers to the traditional styles of dress worn by the Khmer people from ancient times to the present.
The Andean textile tradition once spanned from the Pre-Columbian to the Colonial era throughout the western coast of South America, but was mainly concentrated in Peru. The arid desert conditions along the coast of Peru have allowed for the preservation of these dyed textiles, which can date to 6000 years old. Many of the surviving textile samples were from funerary bundles, however, these textiles also encompassed a variety of functions. These functions included the use of woven textiles for ceremonial clothing or cloth armor as well as knotted fibers for record-keeping. The textile arts were instrumental in political negotiations, and were used as diplomatic tools that were exchanged between groups. Textiles were also used to communicate wealth, social status, and regional affiliation with others. The cultural emphasis on the textile arts was often based on the believed spiritual and metaphysical qualities of the origins of materials used, as well as cosmological and symbolic messages within the visual appearance of the textiles. Traditionally, the thread used for textiles was spun from indigenous cotton plants, as well as alpaca and llama wool.
The Medieval period in England is usually classified as the time between the fall of the Roman Empire to the beginning of the Renaissance, roughly the years AD 410–1485. For various peoples living in England, the Anglo-Saxons, Anglo-Danes, Normans and Britons, clothing in the medieval era differed widely for men and women as well as for different classes in the social hierarchy. The general styles of Early medieval European dress were shared in England. In the later part of the period, men's clothing changed much more rapidly than women's styles. Clothes were very expensive and both the men and women of lower social classes continued also divided social classes by regulating the colors and styles these various ranks were permitted to wear. In the early Middle Ages, clothing was typically simple and, particularly in the case of lower-class peoples, served only basic utilitarian functions such as modesty and protection from the elements. As time went on the advent of more advanced textile techniques and increased international relations, clothing gradually got more and more intricate and elegant, even with those under the wealthy classes, up into the renaissance.
Ancient Egyptian clothes refers to clothing worn in ancient Egypt from the end of the Neolithic period to the collapse of the Ptolemaic Kingdom with the death of Cleopatra in 30 BC. Egyptian clothing was filled with a variety of colors. Adorned with precious gems and jewels, the fashions of the ancient Egyptians were made for not only beauty but also comfort. Egyptian fashion was created to keep cool while in the hot desert.
Fashion and clothing in the Philippines refers to the way the people of the Philippine society generally dress up at home, at work, travelling and during special occasions.
A cape is a clothing accessory or a sleeveless outer garment which drapes the wearer's back, arms, and chest, and connects at the neck.
History of clothing in the Indian subcontinent The history of Indian clothing is deeply rooted in ancient civilizations, notably the Vedic and Indus Valley Civilization. Standard clothing in India can be traced back to these periods, around 5000 BCE, where evidence suggests the use of woven cotton fabric and the cultivation of silk from silkworms. The attire during this era included robes for priest-kings, turbans for men, knee-length skirts for women, and various jewelry like bangles, necklaces and other jewelry. The remnants of the ancient Indian clothing can be found in the various beautiful figurines discovered from the ancient and pre-historic sites, the rock-cut sculptures, the cave paintings, and human art forms found in temples and monuments. The vedic and other ancient scriptures also provide detailed information about the clothing in ancient period. Taking the instances of the sari to that of turban and the dhoti, the traditional Indian wears were mostly tied around the body in various ways.
Mughal clothing refers to clothing worn by the Mughals in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries throughout the extent of their empire. Much of them were already being used in the past centuries before their arrival in Indian subcontinent. It was characterized by luxurious styles and was made with muslin, silk, velvet and brocade. Elaborate patterns including dots, checks, and waves were used with colors from various dyes including cochineal, sulfate of iron, sulfate of copper, and sulfate of antimony were used.
Clothing in Myanmar varies depending on the ethnicity, geography, climate and cultural traditions of the people of each region of Myanmar (Burma). The most widely recognized Burmese national costume is the longyi, which is worn by both males and females nationwide. Burmese clothing also features great diversity in terms of textiles, weaves, fibers, colours and materials, including velvet, silk, lace, muslin, and cotton.
Ucinaasugai, also known as Ryusou and referred as ushinchi in Okinawan, is the traditional dress of the Ryukyuan people. Ryusou is a form of formal attire; it is customary to wear it on occasions such as wedding ceremony and the coming-of-age ceremony. The ryusou became popular during the Ryukyu Kingdom period. It was originally worn by the members of the royal family and by the nobles of Ryukyu Kingdom. The Ryukyu Kingdom was originally an independent nation which established trade relationship with many countries in Southeast Asia and East Asia; they held their relationship with China as especially important. The development of the ryusou was influenced by both the hanfu and the kimono, demonstrating a combination of Chinese and Japanese influences along with local originality.
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