Cederberg

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Cederberg Wilderness Area
SneeubergAndMalteseCross.jpg
Sneeuberg, the highest peak in the Cederberg, with the Maltese Cross in the foreground.
South Africa Western Cape relief location map.svg
Red pog.svg
Location West Coast, Western Cape, South Africa
Nearest city Clanwilliam
Coordinates 32°20′S19°5′E / 32.333°S 19.083°E / -32.333; 19.083
Area710 km2 (270 sq mi)
Established1973
Governing body CapeNature
World Heritage site2004 (Cape Floral Region Protected Areas)
www.capenature.co.za/reserves/cederberg-wilderness-area/
Part ofCape Floral Region Protected Areas
Criteria Natural: ix, x
Reference 1007-002
Inscription2004 (28th Session)
Extensions2015

The Cederberg mountains are located near Clanwilliam, approximately 300 km north of Cape Town, South Africa at about 32°30′S19°0′E / 32.500°S 19.000°E / -32.500; 19.000 . The mountain range is named after the endangered Clanwilliam cedar (Widdringtonia cedarbergensis), which is a tree endemic to the area. The mountains are noted for dramatic rock formations and San rock art. The Cederberg Wilderness Area is administered by CapeNature.

Contents

Cederberg is now the generally accepted spelling for the area, which combines the English (Cedarberg) and Afrikaans (Sederberg) variants.

Geography and climate

Schematic diagram of an approximate 100 km west-east (left to right) geological cross-section through the Cederberg (a portion of the Cape Fold Belt to which Table Mountain on the Cape Peninsula also belongs). The rocky layers (in different colours) belong to the Cape Supergroup. The green layer is the Pakhuis Formation (a sediment, called "tillite", left by glaciers which for a short time crossed this area about 450 million years ago). It divides the Peninsula Formation Sandstone (or Table Mountain Sandstone) (magenta layer) into a Lower and Upper portion. It is the Lower (older) portion that is particularly hard and erosion resistant, and, therefore, forms most of the highest and most conspicuous peaks in the Cederberg and elsewhere in the Western Cape. The Upper Peninsula Formation, above the Pakhuis tillite layer, is considerably softer and more easily eroded than the lower Formation. In the Cederberg it has been sculpted by wind erosion into many fantastic shapes and caverns, for which these mountains have become famous. The bottoms of the valleys are covered by the Bokkeveld mudstones on which the Western Cape's vineyards and fruit orchards thrive. The Witteberg Formation further inland is the topmost layer of the Cape Supergroup, and is only exposed in the Karoo - the Swartruggens hills in the very arid Tanqua Karoo, in this case. Cederberg geology.jpg
Schematic diagram of an approximate 100 km west–east (left to right) geological cross-section through the Cederberg (a portion of the Cape Fold Belt to which Table Mountain on the Cape Peninsula also belongs). The rocky layers (in different colours) belong to the Cape Supergroup. The green layer is the Pakhuis Formation (a sediment, called "tillite", left by glaciers which for a short time crossed this area about 450 million years ago). It divides the Peninsula Formation Sandstone (or Table Mountain Sandstone) (magenta layer) into a Lower and Upper portion. It is the Lower (older) portion that is particularly hard and erosion resistant, and, therefore, forms most of the highest and most conspicuous peaks in the Cederberg and elsewhere in the Western Cape. The Upper Peninsula Formation, above the Pakhuis tillite layer, is considerably softer and more easily eroded than the lower Formation. In the Cederberg it has been sculpted by wind erosion into many fantastic shapes and caverns, for which these mountains have become famous. The bottoms of the valleys are covered by the Bokkeveld mudstones on which the Western Cape's vineyards and fruit orchards thrive. The Witteberg Formation further inland is the topmost layer of the Cape Supergroup, and is only exposed in the Karoo – the Swartruggens hills in the very arid Tanqua Karoo, in this case.
Wolfberg Arch sculpted from the Upper Peninsula Formation Sandstone rocks by wind erosion. Wolfbergarch-001.jpg
Wolfberg Arch sculpted from the Upper Peninsula Formation Sandstone rocks by wind erosion.

The Cederberg mountains extend about 50 km north–south by 20 km east–west. They are bordered on the west by the Sandveld, the north by the Pakhuis Mountains, the east by the Springbok Flats and the south by the Kouebokkeveld Mountains and the Skurweberge. The main access road, the N7, runs to the west of the range. The nearest towns are Citrusdal to the southwest and Clanwilliam to the north. The area is sparsely populated.

There are several notable mountains in the range, including Sneeuberg (2026 m) and Tafelberg (1969 m). Tafelberg (Afrikaans for "Table Mountain") should not be confused with the Table Mountain in Cape Town. Notable landmarks include the Maltese Cross, Wolfberg Arch and Wolfberg Cracks.

The dominating characteristic of the area is sharply defined sandstone rock formations (Table Mountain Group), often reddish in colour. This group of rocks contains bands of shale and in recent years a few important fossils have been discovered in these argillaceous layers. The fossils are of primitive fish and date back 450 million years to the Ordovician Period. [3]

The summers are very hot and dry, while the winters are wetter and cold with typical annual rainfall in the low-lying areas of less than 700 mm. The higher peaks receive a dusting of snow in winter. Summer days are typically clear and cloudless. Due to the clear skies most of the year, it makes an excellent site for skywatching and has its own amateur observatory.

Flora and fauna

The predominant vegetation is Mediterranean fynbos in the wetter south and west, changing to semi desert scrub in the north and east. The endangered Clanwilliam cedar (Widdringtonia wallichii) of the family Cupressaceae and the snow protea (Protea cryophila) of the Proteaceae are endemic to the area, found only in more remote areas high up in the mountains.

The area's apex predators are the felids leopard (Panthera pardus) and caracal (Caracal caracal). Other mammals include the rock hyrax (Procavia capensis) or "dassie", meerkats (Suricata suricatta) and other mongooses (Herpestidae), larger antelopes (e.g. bontebok Damaliscus pygargus dorcas and gemsbok Oryx gazella), the vulnerable Cape mountain zebra (Equus zebra zebra), and chacma baboons (Papio ursinus). There are also many birds, small mammals, reptiles and insects.

Other threatened species found in the Cederberg Wilderness Area include the cyprinids Clanwilliam yellowfish (Labeobarbus capensis, vulnerable), Clanwilliam redfin (Barbus calidus, vulnerable) and sawfin (Barbus serra, endangered).

Human activity

Historical

San rock art near Stadsaal Cave, Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve in the Cederberg San Rock Art - Cederberg.jpg
San rock art near Stadsaal Cave, Matjiesrivier Nature Reserve in the Cederberg

In caves and overhangs throughout the area, San rock art can be found, evidence of the earliest human inhabitants. European settlement brought forestry and some agriculture, and led to massive destruction of the local cedar trees, with thousands felled for telephone poles, furniture and housing. The European arrival also led to the elimination of the San population. In the north, the old Moravian mission station of Wupperthal still remains, the heart of a small subsistence farming community, and home to a local industry producing veldskoene, traditional soft leather shoes.

The Cederberg was possibly the southernmost battleground of the Second Boer War. A small band of Boer guerrillas penetrated into this area from the Boer republics, hundreds of kilometres to the north, hoping to stir up popular support amongst the local farmers of Dutch descent. In this they failed; the farmers may have had little sympathy for the British but they had a fair notion of who was going to win the war. It is said that the Boer commandos were confronted in the Cederberg by a lone Englishman, who ordered them to surrender. They laughed at him, because he was one and they were many and tried to reason with him, pointing out the hopelessness of his position. He refused to back down and was in the end shot dead. The place where he fell is today called Engelsmanskloof ("Englishman's ravine").

Agriculture

Arable land is limited by the altitude, the dry climate, and the rocky terrain, and few farms exist. Rooibos tea is the area's most famous export, though fruit and tobacco are also harvested on some farms. The Cederberg area includes one winery, the highest in South Africa. [4] Around the Wupperthal area are a number of subsistence farms. Some commercial pine plantations remain around the Algeria forest station. Proteas and other fynbos plants are also grown. A number of farms have become predominantly guest farms catering for the local and international tourist market.

Tourism

Rock pool in a river in the Cederberg Conservancy Cederberg Conservency, Western Cape.jpg
Rock pool in a river in the Cederberg Conservancy

As a wilderness area, the primary activity is eco-tourism, including camping, rock climbing and hiking. The main campsite, Algeria, is operated by CapeNature, while others such as Sanddrif, Driehoek, Jamaka and Kromrivier are privately operated and form the Cedarberg Conservancy, a voluntary association of landowners. [5]

The Cederberg is renowned for its quality of rock climbing routes particularly around the Krakadouw and Tafelberg peaks. The Table Mountain Sandstone creates ideal conditions for spectacular routes. There are numerous day and overnight hikes including the popular and spectacular Wolfberg Arch, Wolfberg Cracks and the Maltese Cross.

The area is also home to an amateur astronomical observatory, which regularly hosts open evenings for the public. [6]

There are various 4x4 routes.

A large tract of the northern Cederberg is owned by the Moravian Church. The quaint village of Wupperthal forms part of a mission station route that provides visitors with an interesting view of rural life. The village is also a well known centre for hand-made leather shoes and boots. One of the "buite stasies" (directly translated as outer stations) is Heuningvlei, a small picturesque hamlet that is in the process of developing a donkey cart trail from the summit of Pakhuis Pass to the hamlet. The project, a poverty alleviation project funded by the Department of Environmental Affairs and Tourism, includes the creation of backpacking accommodation, herb garden and various other tourism offerings. [7]

Scouting

The Cederberg is also the site of the Senior Scout Adventure, a 12-day event for Scouts run every second year by Scouts South Africa. [8]

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Table Mountain</span> Flat-topped mountain overlooking the city of Cape Town, South Africa

Table Mountain is a flat-topped mountain forming a prominent landmark overlooking the city of Cape Town in South Africa. It is a significant tourist attraction, with many visitors using the cableway or hiking to the top. Table Mountain National Park is the most visited national park in South Africa, attracting 4.2 million people every year for various activities. The mountain has 8,200 plant species, of which around 80% are fynbos, meaning fine bush. It forms part of the Table Mountain National Park, and part of the lands formerly ranged by Khoe-speaking clans, such as the !Uriǁʼaes. It is home to a large array of mostly endemic fauna and flora. Its top elevates about 1.000 m above the surrounding city, making the popular hike upwards on a large variety of different, often steep and rocky pathways a serious mountain tour which requires fitness, preparation and hiking equipment.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Rooibos</span> Species of plant in the family Fabaceae

Rooibos, or Aspalathus linearis, is a broom-like member of the plant family Fabaceae that grows in South Africa's fynbos biome.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fynbos</span> Shrubland and heathland ecoregion of southwestern South Africa

Fynbos is a small belt of natural shrubland or heathland vegetation located in the Western Cape and Eastern Cape provinces of South Africa. This area is predominantly coastal and mountainous, with a Mediterranean climate and rainy winters. The fynbos ecoregion is within the Mediterranean forests, woodlands, and scrub biome. In fields related to biogeography, fynbos is known for its exceptional degree of biodiversity and endemism, consisting of about 80% species of the Cape floral kingdom, where nearly 6,000 of them are endemic. This land continues to face severe human-caused threats, but due to the many economic uses of the fynbos, conservation efforts are being made to help restore it.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Wupperthal</span> Place in Western Cape, South Africa

Wupperthal is a small town in the Cederberg mountains in the Western Cape province of South Africa. It was founded in 1830 by two German missionaries of the Rhenish Missionary Society, Theobald von Wurmb and Johann Gottlieb Leipoldt, grandfather of C. Louis Leipoldt – some 100 years before the city of Wuppertal was formally established in Germany. In 1965, after the Rhenish Mission had gradually scaled down their activities in Southern Africa over a period of 40 years, a decision was taken that Wupperthal in future should become part of the Moravian Church, which by that stage had already made the transition from a mission to an autonomous church in South Africa. The town remains a Moravian mission station to this day.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cederberg Local Municipality</span> Local municipality in Western Cape, South Africa

Cederberg Municipality is a local municipality which governs an area of the Western Cape province of South Africa stretching from the Cederberg mountains through the middle valley of the Olifants River to the Atlantic coast. It includes the towns of Clanwilliam, Citrusdal and Lamberts Bay, and the surrounding villages and farms. As of 2011 it had a population of 49,768. It is located within the West Coast District Municipality and its municipality code is WC012.

The R364 is a Regional Route in South Africa that connects Lamberts Bay to the R27 between Calvinia and Nieuwoudtville via Clanwilliam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">C. Louis Leipoldt</span> South African poet (1880–1947)

Christian Frederik Louis Leipoldt, usually referred to as C. Louis Leipoldt, was a South African poet, dramatist, medical doctor, reporter and food expert. Together with Jan F. E. Celliers and J. D. du Toit, he was one of the leading figures in the poetry of the Second Afrikaans Movement. Apart from poetry, Leipoldt wrote novels, plays, stories, children's books, cookbooks and a travel diary. He is numbered amongst the greatest of the Afrikaner poets and was described by D. J. Opperman, himself a noted South African poet, as "our most versatile artist".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Clanwilliam, South Africa</span> Place in Western Cape, South Africa

Clanwilliam is a town in the Olifants River valley in the Western Cape, South Africa, about 200 kilometres (120 mi) north of Cape Town. It is located in, and the seat of, the Cederberg Local Municipality. As of 2011 Clanwilliam had a population of 7,674.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Helderberg</span> Region of the City of Cape Town, South Africa

Helderberg refers to a planning district of the City of Cape Town metropolitan municipality, the mountain after which it is named, a wine-producing area in the Western Cape province of South Africa, or a small census area in Somerset West.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cape Fold Belt</span> Paleozoic fold and thrust belt in South Africa

The Cape Fold Belt is a fold and thrust belt of late Paleozoic age, which affected the sequence of sedimentary rock layers of the Cape Supergroup in the southwestern corner of South Africa. It was originally continuous with the Ventana Mountains near Bahía Blanca in Argentina, the Pensacola Mountains, the Ellsworth Mountains and the Hunter-Bowen orogeny in eastern Australia. The rocks involved are generally sandstones and shales, with the shales persisting in the valley floors while the erosion resistant sandstones form the parallel ranges, the Cape Fold Mountains, which reach a maximum height of 2325 m at Seweweekspoortpiek.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Table Mountain Sandstone</span> Group of rock formations within the Cape Supergroup sequence of rocks

Table Mountain Sandstone (TMS) is a group of rock formations within the Cape Supergroup sequence of rocks. Although the term "Table Mountain Sandstone" is still widely used in common parlance, the term TMS is no longer formally recognized; the correct name is the "Peninsula Formation Sandstone", which is part of the Table Mountain Group. The designation "Table Mountain Sandstone" will, however, in deference to the title, continue to be used in the rest of this article. The name is derived from the famous landmark in Cape Town, Table Mountain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Groot Winterhoek</span> Mountain range in the Western Cape region of South Africa

The Groot Winterhoek mountains are located in the Western Cape province of South Africa and are part of the Cape Fold Belt comprising a watershed area of 552,606 hectares. They rise to a maximum height of 2077 m just north of the town of Tulbagh as Groot Winterhoek peak. The mountains are predominantly made up of Table Mountain sandstone. Up to 83% of the range is still classified as being in a natural state and up to 72% of the range is protected. The towns of Saron and Porterville are located at the foot the mountain range's western side.

<i>Widdringtonia nodiflora</i> Species of conifer

Widdringtonia nodiflora is a species of Widdringtonia native to Southern Africa. It usually grows at high altitudes, typically among rocks on mountainsides. Its foliage and wood are highly flammable while its natural habitat is prone to fire. To compensate, the species will coppice from its roots after being burnt down.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Johann Franz Drège</span>

Johann Fran(t)z Drège, commonly referred to by his standard botanical author abbreviation Drège, was a German horticulturalist, botanical collector and explorer of Huguenot descent.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Renosterveld</span> Vegetation type and plant community of the Cape Floristic Region

Renosterveld is a term used for one of the major plant communities and vegetation types of the Cape Floristic Region which is located in southwestern and southeastern South Africa, in southernmost Africa. It is an ecoregion of the Mediterranean forests, woodlands, and scrub biome.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Peninsula Granite Fynbos</span> Vegetation type endemic to the city of Cape Town, South Africa

Peninsula Granite Fynbos is an endangered Fynbos vegetation type which is endemic to the city of Cape Town and occurs nowhere else. It is a unique type of tall, dense and diverse scrubland, scattered with trees. It can be found all along the belt of granite that encircles Table Mountain.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Helderberg Nature Reserve</span> Nature reserve in Cape Town, South Africa

Helderberg Nature Reserve is a 398-hectare (980-acre) nature reserve in Somerset West, South Africa.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cecilia, Table Mountain</span> Section of the Table Mountain National Park

Cecilia is a section of the Table Mountain National Park on the lower eastern slopes of Table Mountain in Cape Town, located just to the south of Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. It was previously used for commercial logging and known as Cecilia Forest or Cecilia Plantation, but has now been given protected status and integrated into the National Park.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Kgaswane Mountain Reserve</span> Ramsar site reserve within the Magaliesberg Biosphere, North West, South Africa

Kgaswane Mountain Reserve is a nature reserve of 5,300 hectares consisting of veld and mountains run by the North West Parks and Tourism Board. It is located 5 km (3.1 mi) south-west of Rustenburg on the northern slopes of the Magaliesberg, inside of the Magaliesberg Biosphere Reserve and alongside the western portion of the Magaliesberg Protected Natural Environment. Kgaswane is home to many species of flora and bird life and large and small mammals, and has been designated as a protected Ramsar site since 2019. The reserve has a number of camp sites, hikes and trails.

Pakhuis Pass is a mountain pass on the R364 in the northern Cederberg in South Africa. The pass connects Clanwilliam to Calvinia. A turnoff from the pass heads southeast to the Biedouw Valley and Wupperthal. The pass is 25 km long, reaches an altitude of 905 m at a gradient of 1:9.

References

  1. Norman, N., Whitfield, G. (2006). "Geological Journeys. A Traveller’s Guide to South Africa’s Rocks and Landforms". pp. 28, 208-212. Cape Town, Struik Publishers. ISBN   1-77007-062-1.
  2. Whitfield, Gavin (2015). "Stadsaal Caves. Cederberg Conservancy.". In: 50 Must-see geological sites in South Africa. Century City: Struik Nature. pp. 64–67. ISBN   978-1-92057-250-1.
  3. Melanie Gosling (10 May 2005). "Fossilised fish 'ancestor' found in Cederberg". Cape Times . Archived from the original on 25 May 2005 via Wayback Machine.
  4. "Cederberg Wines – Award-winning wines from high-altitude vineyards". cederbergwine.com.
  5. "Cederberg Conservancy" . Retrieved 6 December 2023.
  6. "Cederberg Astronomical Observatory". cederbergobs.org.za.
  7. "Cederberg Heritage Route". cedheroute.co.za. Retrieved 7 January 2019.
  8. "Cederberg Senior Scout Adventure". Scouts South Africa. Retrieved 7 January 2019.