English afternoon tea

Five o’clock tea, painting by Scottish artist David Comba Adamson, oil on canvas, 1884–1898

Afternoon tea (also known as five o'clock tea or low tea) is a traditional meal that originated in nineteenth-century Great Britain. It typically consists of tea, sandwiches, scones with clotted cream and jam, and various sweets or cakes. It is regarded as a cultural phenomenon associated with British culture, and is accompanied by a distinct code of etiquette. It may be served at various times; historically, it is taken between the mid-day and evening meals, starting between 15:00 and 17:00.

History

"Afternoon Tea", painting by Jan Anton Garemyn, 1778

Early mentions

While the custom of drinking tea in the afternoon may have existed from the late 17th century, afternoon tea as a meal is a later invention, dating to the late 18th or early 19th centuries. ^[1] An early French reference to "afternoon tea" was made by Madame de Sévigné (1626–1696), who used the term "thé de cinq heures" ("five o’clock tea") in her letters. ^[2] William H. Ukers notes that Alexander Carlyle used the term "afternoon tea" in his autobiography. He describes the ladies of Harrogate serving "afternoon tea or coffee" in 1763. ^[1]

The establishment of the tradition

Anna Russell, the Duchess of Bedford, is commonly cited as the originator of the meal of afternoon tea. Accordingly to the story, at some time in the 1830s or 1840s, the duchess requested a collation of tea and snacks be sent up to her room between the mid-day and evening meals. ^[3] During this period, it was the custom for the aristocracy to take their evening meal no earlier than 19:30, ^[3] or 20:00. ^[1] The duchess, who found herself hungry during the intervening period, is said to have devised afternoon tea as a means to endure the long wait until the evening meal. Later, she turned this personal habit into an opportunity for social gathering. ^[3]

Anna Russell, Duchess of Bedford, 1820

The duchess's role in establishing the custom of afternoon tea is a matter of controversy. ^[3] According to Julia Skinner, there are two theories of her involvement. One claims that afternoon tea as a meal predates the duchess's birth, and that the timings of meals in Britain had already entered a period of transition. The other argues that the duchess codified what had been an informal custom, establishing a defined etiquette, menu, and ritual for afternoon tea. ^[3] The duchess served as Lady of the Bedchamber to Queen Victoria, a powerful position that allowed her to become a trendsetter. ^[4]

Spread and popularisation

The custom of afternoon tea first spread among the aristocracy. It was later adopted by others in emulation, ^[5] and by the 1860s–1870s, it had spread to the middle class. ^[6] While afternoon tea (also known as "low tea" ^[7] ) became popular among the upper and middle classes, the working class adopted a different meal called "high tea", ^[5] which was taken around the same time, but much heartier. ^[7] This separate custom emerged due to a change in working habits. ^[5] By the end the 19th century, the concept of tea as a meal, whether in the form of afternoon or high tea, had become established among all social classes. ^[6]

Tea rooms and gardens

The first tea room was established at Glasgow in Scotland by tea merchant Stuart Cranston during the 1880s. His sister, Catherine Cranston, later opened a chain of tea rooms, which included the Willow Tearooms, designed by Charles Rennie Mackintosh. ^[8] In London, the Aerated Bread Company and Lyons operated popular chains. ^[9] Unlike the earlier English coffeehouses, these new establishments welcomed female patrons. ^[10] Outdoor tea gardens also became popular, and were operated at Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens. ^[11] Afternoon tea was also served in the halls of many British hotels, during matinee performances at theatres and cinemas, at railway stations, in restaurant cars, to passengers on British ocean liners and aeroplanes, by clubs, and at important social events, at horse races, regattas, bridge and tennis matches, ^[12] cricket games, and at the annual garden parties of the British royal family. ^[11]

• 
  Tea room, Horncastle, Lincolnshire, 2011
• 
  Tea at the shooting club "Tiro Federal", Buenos Aires, Argentina, 1896
• 
  Tea on the harbour promenade, Blankenberge, Belgium, c. 1930
• 
  Afternoon tea dance, Palace Hotel, Lillafüred, Hungary, 1936

"A Manual of Etiquette for Ladies: or, The Principles of Politeness", 1856

Clothing

Tea gowns were loose-fitting garments, often made of chiffon, that were traditionally worn by ladies during afternoon teas held at home from 1875 to the 1920s. ^{[13] [14]} They served to provide participants a brief reprieve from the uncomfortable corsets regularly worn in the latter half of the 19th century. ^[13]

During 1910–1911, the hobble dress was often worn at afternoon tea. ^[14]

Atmosphere

"Afternoon tea for three", by Frédéric Soulacroix, 1870s

Afternoon tea receptions were considered "least formal, most friendly and enjoyable of all entertainments given at home." According to the etiquette guide "The Habits of Good Society", their "chief charm [was] that a tea-party [could] be arranged in two or three days notice." ^[15] Helen Simpson says that conversation during traditional afternoon teas was deliberately limited to mundane small talk. English author Saki satirised the inanity of these exchanges in his short story, Tea. ^[16]

Guests were not expected to stay long – half an hour of pleasant conversation was sufficient. If a guest wished to speak with the hostess or with the special guest in whose honour the tea was held, they would approach at an appropriate moment, but should not detain them for long, especially when there were many visitors in the house. During the height of the summer tea season, ladies would remain in one place for no more than fifteen minutes before proceeding to the next afternoon tea. ^[17]

Table setting and menu

Afternoon tea setup at the Ritz Hotel, London  – tea set, tiered tray with sandwiches (including cucumber sandwich), scones, petit fours, jams, clotted cream, and champagne

A multi-tiered stand for serving sandwiches, scones, and pastries is often placed in the centre of the table, along with napkins. ^[18] The bottom tier holds sandwiches, the middle tier scones, and the top tier petit fours and sweet cakes. ^[19]

Typically, black tea is served, often Darjeeling, Assam, Earl Grey, or Ceylon tea, served with milk or lemon (if serving Chinese tea ^[20] or Russian-style tea ^[21] ). Cafés and restaurants usually offer patrons a choice of at least a dozen varieties, including traditional black teas, herbal infusions, rooibos, and green teas. ^[22] Food and beverage managers in British hotels design menus emphasizing variety – in dishes as well as tea types. Some establishments even employ tea sommeliers who create a tea menu including varieties from around the world. ^[23]

Contemporary significance

Today, the tradition is maintained at the Ritz Hotel, London ^[24] and other hotels. ^[25] The popularity of tea, both as a beverage and as a light meal, declined somewhat in the mid-20th century, but from the beginning of the 21st century it has been experiencing a revival: more and more establishments are returning it to their menus, and the British and residents of post-colonial countries are showing growing interest in both domestic and public tea services. ^[26] As in the early 20th century, hotels and restaurants have embraced the trend, and the service often extends beyond dining rooms into lounge areas and common spaces. Guests are willing to pay substantial sums for a modest meal that is easy to prepare in the kitchen and generates income during the lull between lunch and dinner. ^[27] In Britain, afternoon tea occupies a dual position: on one hand, it is sometimes considered an outdated tradition; on the other hand, it remains an important part of the country's gastronomic identity. ^[28]

Outside the United Kingdom

Afternoon tea at Strickland House, Vaucluse, Sydney, Australia, 1898

Afternoon tea has become a symbol of English culture. Its presence (or absence) in the former colonies of the British Empire reflects the rise and decline of English influence, as well as which traditions were valued and preserved. ^[29] Just as the British imported goods and raw materials from their colonies, they exported their cultural traditions there. By the end of the 19th century, colonial officials (such as governors) had firmly adopted afternoon tea into their routines and continued the tradition at new posts. Thus, afternoon tea became part of the colonial legacy, rooted in many post-colonial cultures, and continues to exist in both modified and unchanged forms. ^[30]

Afternoon tea became widespread in countries of the former British Empire, including Australia, Hong Kong, India, Canada, Kenya, Malta, and South Africa. ^[31] The custom is also observed in society and luxury hotels in countries such as Austria, Belgium, Hungary, Greece, Denmark, Italy, Norway, Poland, Finland, Czech Republic, Sweden, and Switzerland. ^[32] In Russia, the term "five o'clock" became a symbol of refined lifestyle and entered the vocabulary of the Russian intelligentsia in the late 19th century; ^{[33] [34]} among lower social strata, afternoon tea with a samovar ^[32] also became a habit. ^[35]

References

1. Davidson 1999, p. 6.
2. Dorothea Johnson Tea & Etiquette: Taking Tea for Business and Pleasure / Capital Books, 2000, p. 54–55 ISBN   978-1892123350
3. Skinner 2019, p. 31.
4. Skinner 2019, p. 30.
5. Skinner 2019, p. 33.
6. Skinner 2019, p. 34.
7. Skinner 2019, p. 38.
8. Pettigrew 2004, p. 36.
9. Ukers 1935, p. 414.
10. Ukers 1935, pp. 413–414.
11. Ukers 1935, p. 415.
12. Michael Smith. "The Afternoon Tea Book". New York: Atheneum, 1986, pp. 19–22. ISBN   978-0689115929.
13. Pettigrew 2004, p. 54.
14. Muriel Moffat. "Afternoon Tea". Vancouver; Berkeley: Douglas & McIntyre, 2013. p. 28. ISBN   978-1771000536
15. Heath, Mary E. "A Woman’s World: How Afternoon Tea Defined and Hindered Victorian Middle-Class Women". // Constructing the Past. – Illinois Wesleyan University, 2012. – Vol. 13, Issue 1.
16. Helen Simpson. "The Ritz London Book of Afternoon Tea: The Art and Pleasures of Taking Tea". UK: Ebury Publishing, 2012, pp. 17–18. ISBN   978-1448146406.
17. Valchuk, T. G.; Timoshilova, T. M. "The Country-Specific Component in the Study of Fiction." Belgorod State National Research University // Linguistic and Methodological Aspects of Teaching Foreign Languages: Materials of the IV International Scientific and Practical Conference, Belgorod, 22–23 Nov. 2013. Ed. A. M. Amatov. Belgorod, 2013. pp. 66–71.
18. Skinner 2019, p. 110.
19. Skinner 2019, p. 124.
20. Davidson 1999.
21. Ukers 1935, p. 411.
22. Skinner 2019, p. 88.
23. Skinner 2019, p. 123.
24. Pettigrew 2004, p. 38.
25. Skinner 2019, p. 57–88.
26. Skinner 2019, p. 89.
27. Skinner 2019, p. 122.
28. Skinner 2019, p. 121.
29. Skinner 2019, Preface, XII.
30. Skinner 2019, p. 44.
31. Skinner 2019, p. 57–84.
32. Ukers 1935, p. 428–429.
33. Solovyov, E. A. Essays on the History of 19th Century Russian Literature Saint Petersburg, A. E. Kolpinsky Printing House, 1902, p. 547.
34. Samotik, L. G. Fashionable Words in Contemporary Society Man and Language in the Communicative Space: Collection of Scientific Articles // VII International (XXI All-Russian) Philological Readings in Memory of Prof. R. T. Grib (1928–1995) [Electronic Resource]; Ed. B. Ya. Sharifullin. Krasnoyarsk: Siberian Federal University, 2016. – Issue 7 (16), p. 41 ISBN   978-5-7638-3463-5
35. Sokolsky, I. Russian Afternoon Nap and English Five-o’clock Tea Archived 2017-06-02 at the Wayback Machine / Science and Life.

Sources

• Skinner, Julia (2019). Afternoon Tea: A History. London: Rowman & Littlefield. p. 225. ISBN   978-1442271012.
• Ukers, William Harrison (1935). All About Tea. New York: The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal Company. pp. 408–435.
• Post, Emily (1923). Etiquette in Society, in Business, in Politics, and at Home (PDF). New York and London: Funk & Wagnalls. p. 697.
• Davidson, Alan (1999). The Oxford Companion to Food. New York: Oxford University Press. ISBN   978-0192115799.
• Pettigrew, Jane (2004). Afternoon Tea. Andover, Hampshire: Pitkin Publishing. pp. 24, 38. ISBN   978-1841651439.
• Beeton, Isabella (1861). Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management . London: S.O. Beeton. pp. 1093, 1693.