Sewing machine needle

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Parts of a sewing machine needle and comparison of several types of needle points and parts Sewing-machine-needles-types.jpg
Parts of a sewing machine needle and comparison of several types of needle points and parts

A sewing machine needle is a specialized needle for use in a sewing machine. A sewing machine needle consists of: [1]

Contents

Domestic sewing machines, designed for use in homes as opposed to commercial sewing operations, use a common needle type (including a standardized length, as well as shank shape and diameter) referred to as "Groz-Beckert 130 / 705," "HAx1" or "15x1" needles. [2] Needles labeled as "universal" needles are of this type and are generally the type of needles found in retail sewing supply shops. The 15x1 needle is available in different standardized shaft diameters suitable for sewing different fabrics (see the section on Size codes below).

For commercial/industrial sewing machines, there are several proprietary sizes and types of needles which are not mentioned in this article.

Construction

Universal needle design with a flat face Use sewing machine 7.jpg
Universal needle design with a flat face

The majority of sewing machine needles are made of various grades of hardened steel coated with either nickel or chromium, though certain specialty needles are coated with titanium nitride on top of chromium. Titanium nitride is a reflective golden-colored ceramic material which reduces abrasion allowing the needle to stay sharper longer and last many times longer than other varieties. The titanium does not make the needle any stronger in regards to bending, however, and such needles will bend and snap just as easily as any other.

Nickel plating is the least expensive and least durable form of plating. Chrome plating lasts longer and gives better abrasion resistance. Titanium nitride on top of chromium is the most expensive and is superior in performance to both chrome and nickel.

Size codes

More than a dozen modern conventions exist for numbering the sizes of sewing machine needles, though only two remain in common use: the American (established and propagated by Singer) and the international system (also called the "European", "number metric" or "NM" system). The European designation, established in 1942, corresponds to the diameter of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter at a non-reinforced point above the scarf. In both cases, a larger number corresponds to a larger, heavier needle.

Most sewing machine needles will have packaging that gives both of these numbers in its size description — (e.g. as either 100/16 or 16/100). The length of all sewing machine needles has been standardized and does not require a separate code.

The metric designation is the actual needle diameter in hundredths of a millimeter. [3] The following chart gives a comparison of the two systems: [4]

Universal needle shaft diameters
DiameterAmerican
size
International
size
Fabric types
0.60 mm (0.024 in)860Very fine fabrics (silk, chiffon, organza, voile, lace)
0.65 mm (0.026 in)965
0.70 mm (0.028 in)1070
0.75 mm (0.030 in)1175Light weight fabrics (cotton, heavier silks, synthetics, spandex, lycra)
0.80 mm (0.031 in)1280
0.90 mm (0.035 in)1490Medium weight fabrics (velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, tricot, knits, fleece)
1.00 mm (0.039 in)16100Heavy weight fabrics (denim, leather, canvas, suiting)
1.10 mm (0.043 in)18110Very heavy weight fabrics (heavy denim, upholstery fabric, faux fur)
1.20 mm (0.047 in)19120
1.25 mm (0.049 in)20125Extra heavy fabrics
1.30 mm (0.051 in)21130

Types

Most currently manufactured needles are designated according to "type", and fall into the following categories:

TypeDescription
UniversalThe universal class of needles are used on domestic machines. "Universal" refers to the shape of the needle shank and length of the needle rather than the actual sewing application or point. The most notable feature of universal needles is the flat face on the needle shank which helps to ensure the needle is inserted correctly. A universal class needle is designed to be used on virtually any domestic sewing machine. They do not fit industrial or commercial machines.
EmbroideryThese needles come with an extra large eye and a specially shaped scarf to prevent embroidery thread from shredding.
BallpointSimilar to a universal needle but has rounded edges and is not tapered the same way. Intended for closely knit fabrics where the rounded tip will push the weave out of the way rather than cut through it.
Jeans/ DenimIntended for tightly woven cottons such as canvas. Has a strong, sharp point and very slender eye.
WingNeedle has distinct "wings" on either side of the eye which hold the fabric open. Often used on hems and borders, and for decorative finishing. A larger size needle will leave a larger hole in the final piece of sewn fabric.
LeatherThese have a distinct triangular point to help the needle make a large, clean hole in non-woven materials like vinyl.
MetallicSimilar to an embroidery needle with a large eye and extra long scarf, but also includes a Teflon coating to the eye so that metallic threads will not shred when used.
QuiltingDesigned with an extra strong shaft and with a tapered point to penetrate multiple layers of woven fabrics without breaking and without shredding either the thread or the fabric being sewn.
Serger/ IndustrialThese needles can only be used in serger and overlocking machines.
Microtex/ SharpsMore slender and sharper than the universal needle. Suitable for fine woven fabrics, but also compatible for quilting and appliqué.
StretchThese needles are intended for use on fabrics with a significant amount of Spandex or similar fabric content. Rounded tip and specialized scarf and eye to prevent skipping.
TopstitchingThese have exceptionally sharp points and a very large eye to accommodate thick decorative topstitching threads. Very similar to the leather needle.
Twin/ TripleNeedles set in pairs or in groups of three on a single shaft designed to sew multiple, usually decorative, threads at once. These require specialized machinery to accommodate the extra needles, as well as multiple thread feeds. The twin or triple designation is usually accompanied by another needle type specification such as "stretch" or "denim", etc.

Singer number and color codes

Singer colors and numbers its needles with the following system of codes to indicate the needle point type and shaft size:

code and shank colorPoint type
2000 - uncoloredchromium-coated regular point, for high-speed embroidery stitching
2020 - redregular point, for woven fabrics (most common Singer needle type)
2022, 2053, 2054 - uncoloredoverlock needles, only for overlocking machines
2044 - uncoloredembroidery needle
2045 - yellowball point, for knits
2026 - blueheavy-duty point, for denims
2032 - brownchisel or wedge point, for leathers
2025 - uncoloredtwin needles
2040 - uncoloredhemstitch or wing-needle, for "heirloom" or decorative sewing, best on woven cottons and linens
Shoulder colorShaft size
(U.S.)
Shaft size
(international)
Diameter
green9

100

650.65 mm
orange11750.75 mm
blue14900.90 mm
purple161001.00 mm
silver181101.10 mm

SVP Worldwide colour codes

The coloured band on some types of Inspira needles indicates the needle type.[ citation needed ]

Shoulder colourType
purpleStretch
yellowMicrotex
redEmbroidery
blueDenim
greenQuilting
uncoloredOthers

Kenmore color codes

Kenmore colors its needles with a different system of color codes which indicate the needle's size:[ citation needed ]

Shank colorShaft size
(U.S.)
Shaft size
(international)
Diameter
blue11750.75 mm
orange12800.80 mm
red14900.90 mm
purple161001.00 mm
green181101.10 mm

Schmetz shank colour codes

The coloured top band on some types of Schmetz needles indicates the needle shank types. [5]

Top shoulder colourType
yellowStretch
lightgraySuper Stretch
blueJeans
orangeJersey
greenQuilting
redEmbroidery
purpleMicrotex
pinkMetallic
lt. greenTopstitch
brownLeather
uncoloredOthers

Schmetz needles with a universal needle (shank) have a colored bottom band indicating the (shaft) sizes: [5]

Bottom shoulder colourShaft size
(international)
Diameter
light cyan600.60 mm
very light blue650.65 mm
medium green-cyan700.70 mm
strong pink750.75 mm
red-orange800.80 mm
strong cyan900.90 mm
dark violet1001.00 mm
yellow1101.10 mm
brown1201.20 mm
black1251.25 mm
bright red1301.30 mm

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing machine</span> Machine used to stitch fabric

A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the first sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the clothing industry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Knitting needle</span>

A knitting needle or knitting pin is a tool in hand-knitting to produce knitted fabrics. They generally have a long shaft and taper at their end, but they are not nearly as sharp as sewing needles. Their purpose is two-fold. The long shaft holds the active (unsecured) stitches of the fabric, to prevent them from unravelling, whereas the tapered ends are used to form new stitches. Most commonly, a new stitch is formed by inserting the tapered end through an active stitch, catching a loop of fresh yarn and drawing it through the stitch; this secures the initial stitch and forms a new active stitch in its place. In specialized forms of knitting the needle may be passed between active stitches being held on another needle, or indeed between/through inactive stitches that have been knit previously.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lockstitch</span> Stitch made by sewing machines

A lockstitch is the most common mechanical stitch made by a sewing machine. The term "single needle stitching", often found on dress shirt labels, refers to lockstitch.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Machine embroidery</span> Technique of embroidering with a sewing machine or purpose-made embroidering machine

Machine embroidery is an embroidery process whereby a sewing machine or embroidery machine is used to create patterns on textiles. It is used commercially in product branding, corporate advertising, and uniform adornment. It is also used in the fashion industry to decorate garments and apparel. Machine embroidery is used by hobbyists and crafters to decorate gifts, clothing, and home decor. Examples include designs on quilts, pillows, and wall hangings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Drill bit</span> Type of cutting tool

Drill bits are cutting tools used in a drill to remove material to create holes, almost always of circular cross-section. Drill bits come in many sizes and shapes and can create different kinds of holes in many different materials. In order to create holes drill bits are usually attached to a drill, which powers them to cut through the workpiece, typically by rotation. The drill will grasp the upper end of a bit called the shank in the chuck.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chrome plating</span> Technique of electroplating

Chrome plating is a technique of electroplating a thin layer of chromium onto a metal object. A chrome plated part is called chrome, or is said to have been chromed. The chromium layer can be decorative, provide corrosion resistance, facilitate cleaning, or increase surface hardness. Sometimes, a less expensive substitute for chrome such as nickel may be used for aesthetic purposes.

A crochet hook is an implement used to make loops in thread or yarn and to interlock them into crochet stitches. It is a round shaft pointed on one end, with a lateral groove behind it. The point eases the insertion of the hook through the material being crocheted and the groove makes it possible to pull a loop back through the material. The shaft is then divided into a working area that determines the hook's nominal diameter and ensures the uniform sizing of the loops formed on it, and a handle.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Overlock</span> Multi-thread stitch produced in a single production step with an overlock sewing machine

An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming. Usually an overlock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as they are fed through, though some are made without cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows overlock machines to create finished seams easily and quickly. An overlock sewing machine differs from a lockstitch sewing machine in that it uses loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges of the fabric are contained within the seam.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Washer (hardware)</span> Thin plate with a hole, normally used to distribute the load of a threaded fastener

A washer is a thin plate with a hole that is normally used to distribute the load of a threaded fastener, such as a bolt or nut. Other uses are as a spacer, spring, wear pad, preload indicating device, locking device, and to reduce vibration.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Sewing needle</span> Needle with hole to hold thread for sewing

A sewing needle, used for hand-sewing, is a long slender tool with a pointed tip at one end and a hole to hold the sewing thread. The earliest needles were made of bone or wood; modern needles are manufactured from high carbon steel wire and are nickel- or 18K gold-plated for corrosion resistance. High-quality embroidery needles are plated with two-thirds platinum and one-third titanium alloy. Traditionally, needles have been kept in needle books or needlecases which have become objects of adornment. Sewing needles may also be kept in an étui, a small box that held needles and other items such as scissors, pencils and tweezers.

Plating is a finishing process in which a metal is deposited on a surface. Plating has been done for hundreds of years; it is also critical for modern technology. Plating is used to decorate objects, for corrosion inhibition, to improve solderability, to harden, to improve wearability, to reduce friction, to improve paint adhesion, to alter conductivity, to improve IR reflectivity, for radiation shielding, and for other purposes. Jewelry typically uses plating to give a silver or gold finish.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pin</span> Fastening device

A pin is a device, typically pointed and metal, used for fastening objects or fabrics together. Pins can have the following sorts of body:

The shank is the end of a drill bit grasped by the chuck of a drill. The cutting edges of the drill bit contact the workpiece, and are connected via the shaft with the shank, which fits into the chuck. In many cases a general-purpose arrangement is used, such as a bit with cylindrical shaft and shank in a three-jaw chuck which grips a cylindrical shank tightly. Different shank and chuck combination can deliver improved performance, such as allowing higher torque, greater centering accuracy, or moving the bit independently of the chuck, with a hammer action.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">SAE steel grades</span> Standard alloy numbering system for steel grades

The SAE steel grades system is a standard alloy numbering system for steel grades maintained by SAE International.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Screw</span> Type of fastener characterized by a thread wrapped around a cylinder core

A screw and a bolt are similar types of fastener typically made of metal and characterized by a helical ridge, called a male thread.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Thread (yarn)</span> Type of yarn used for sewing

A thread is a long strand of material, often composed of several filaments or fibres, used for joining, creating or decorating textiles. In early humanity Egyptians were known for creating thread using plant fibers, wool and hair. Today, thread can also be made of many different materials including but not limited to cotton, wool, linen, nylon, silk, polyester etc. There are also metal threads, which can be made of fine wire.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Presser foot</span>

A presser foot is an attachment used with sewing machines to hold fabric flat as it is fed through the machine and stitched. Sewing machines have feed dogs in the bed of the machine to provide traction and move the fabric as it is fed through the machine, while the sewer provides extra support for the fabric by guiding it with one hand. A presser foot keeps the fabric flat so that it does not rise and fall with the needle and pucker as it is stitched. When especially thick workpieces are to be sewn, such as quilts, a specialized attachment called a walking foot is often used rather than a presser foot.

A nickel titanium rotary file is an engine-driven tapered and pointed endodontic instrument made of nickel titanium alloy with cutting edges used to mechanically shape and prepare the root canals during endodontic therapy or to remove the root canal obturating material while performing retreatment. The first nickel titanium rotary file was introduced to the market in 1991. Superelasticity and shape memory are the properties that make nickel titanium rotary files very flexible. The high flexibility makes them superior to stainless steel files for the purpose of rotary root canal preparation. The use of nickel titanium rotary files in dentistry is a common practice.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Coverstitch</span> Kind of stitch

A coverstitch is formed by two or more needles which add straight stitches to the fabric and a looper thread on the opposite side of the fabric that zig-zags between the straight stitches. A coverstitch results in parallel lines of straight stitches on one side of the fabric and an overcast stitch on the reverse side. It is widely used in garment construction, particularly for attaching trims and flat seaming where the raw edges can be finished in the same operation as forming the seam.

References

  1. Lydia Morgan (November 6, 2008). "Machine-needle know-how". Threads Magazine. No. 94. pp. 59–61.
  2. Classification of Sewing Machine Needles
  3. Sizes.com - needles
  4. Needle Size Conversion Chart
  5. 1 2 Schmetz Needle Chart