St Olave Hart Street

Last updated
St Olave Hart Street
St Olave Church.jpg
LocationHart Street, City of London
CountryUnited Kingdom
Denomination Church of England
Previous denomination Roman Catholic
Website http://www.sanctuaryinthecity.net/St-Olaves.html
Architecture
Heritage designationGrade I listed building
Style Perpendicular Gothic
Years built1450
Specifications
Bells8 – Hung for full circle ringing
Administration
Parish St Olave's Hart Street
Diocese London
Division Archdeaconry of London
SubdivisionThe City Deanery

St Olave Hart Street is a Church of England church in the City of London, located on the corner of Hart Street and Seething Lane near Fenchurch Street railway station.

Church of England Anglican state church of England

The Church of England is the established church of England. The Archbishop of Canterbury is the most senior cleric, although the monarch is the supreme governor. The Church of England is also the mother church of the international Anglican Communion. It traces its history to the Christian church recorded as existing in the Roman province of Britain by the third century, and to the 6th-century Gregorian mission to Kent led by Augustine of Canterbury.

City of London City and county in United Kingdom

The City of London is a city and county that contains the historic centre and the primary central business district (CBD) of London. It constituted most of London from its settlement by the Romans in the 1st century AD to the Middle Ages, but the agglomeration has since grown far beyond the City's borders. The City is now only a tiny part of the metropolis of London, though it remains a notable part of central London. Administratively, it forms one of the 33 local authority districts of Greater London; however, the City of London is not a London borough, a status reserved for the other 32 districts. It is also a separate county of England, being an enclave surrounded by Greater London. It is the smallest county in the United Kingdom.

Fenchurch Street railway station central London railway terminus

Fenchurch Street railway station, also known as London Fenchurch Street, is a central London railway terminus in the southeastern corner of the City of London. It takes its name from its proximity to Fenchurch Street, a key thoroughfare in the City. The station and all trains are operated by c2c. Services run on lines built by the London and Blackwall Railway (L&BR) and the London, Tilbury and Southend Railway (LTSR) to destinations in east London and south Essex, including Upminster, Grays, Basildon, Southend and Shoeburyness.

Contents

John Betjeman described St Olave's as "a country church in the world of Seething Lane." [1] The church is one of the smallest in the City and is one of only a handful of medieval City churches that escaped the Great Fire of London in 1666. [2] In addition to being a local parish church, St Olave's is the Ward Church of the Tower Ward of the City of London. [3]

John Betjeman English poet, writer and broadcaster

Sir John Betjeman was an English poet, writer, and broadcaster who described himself in Who's Who as a "poet and hack". He was Poet Laureate of the United Kingdom from 1972 until his death.

Great Fire of London disaster in 17th century England

The Great Fire of London was a major conflagration that swept through the central parts of the English city of London from Sunday, 2 September to Thursday, 6 September 1666. The fire gutted the medieval City of London inside the old Roman city wall. It threatened but did not reach the aristocratic district of Westminster, Charles II's Palace of Whitehall, and most of the suburban slums. It consumed 13,200 houses, 87 parish churches, St Paul's Cathedral, and most of the buildings of the City authorities. It is estimated to have destroyed the homes of 70,000 of the city's 80,000 inhabitants.

Tower (ward) ward of the City of London

Tower is one of the 25 wards of the City of London and takes its name from its proximity to the Tower of London. The ward covers the area of the City that is closest to the Tower.

History

The church is first recorded in the 13th century as St Olave-towards-the-Tower, a stone building replacing the earlier (presumably wooden) construction. [4] It is dedicated to the patron saint of Norway, King Olaf II of Norway, [5] who fought alongside the Anglo-Saxon King Ethelred the Unready against the Danes in the Battle of London Bridge in 1014. He was canonised after his death and the church of St Olave's was built apparently on the site of the battle. [2] The Norwegian connection was reinforced during the Second World War when King Haakon VII of Norway worshipped there while in exile.

Olaf II of Norway king of Norway

Olaf II Haraldsson, later known as St. Olaf, was King of Norway from 1015 to 1028. He was posthumously given the title Rex Perpetuus Norvegiae and canonised at Nidaros (Trondheim) by Bishop Grimkell, one year after his death in the Battle of Stiklestad on 29 July 1030. His remains were enshrined in Nidaros Cathedral, built over his burial site. His sainthood encouraged the widespread adoption of the Christian religion among the Vikings / Norsemen in Scandinavia.

Danes people of Denmark

Danes are a North Germanic ethnic group native to Denmark and a modern nation identified with the country of Denmark. This connection may be ancestral, legal, historical, or cultural.

Haakon VII of Norway King of Norway

Haakon VII, known as Prince Carl of Denmark until 1905, was a Danish prince who became the first king of Norway after the 1905 dissolution of the union with Sweden. He reigned from November 1905 until his death in September 1957.

Saint Olave's was rebuilt in the 13th century and then again in the 15th century. The present building dates from around 1450. According to John Stow's Survey of London (1603), a major benefactor of the church in the late 15th century was wool merchant Richard Cely Sr. (d. 1482), who held the advowson on the church (inherited by his son, Richard Cely, Jr.). On his death, Cely bequeathed money for making the steeple and an altar in the church. The merchant mark of the Cely family was carved in two of the corbels in the nave (and were extant until the bombing of World War II). No memorial to the Celys now remains in the church. [6]

John Stow 16th-century English historian and antiquarian

John Stow was an English historian and antiquarian. He is remembered for his various chronicles of English history, published from 1565 onwards under such titles as The Summarie of Englyshe Chronicles, The Chronicles of England, and The Annales of England; but particularly for his Survey of London. A. L. Rowse has described him as "one of the best historians of that age; indefatigable in the trouble he took, thorough and conscientious, accurate – above all things devoted to truth".

Advowson is the right in English law of a patron (avowee) to present to the diocesan bishop a nominee for appointment to a vacant ecclesiastical benefice or church living, a process known as presentation.

Corbel piece of masonry jutting out of a wall to carry any superincumbent weight

In architecture a corbel is a structural piece of stone, wood or metal jutting from a wall to carry a superincumbent weight, a type of bracket. A corbel is a solid piece of material in the wall, whereas a console is a piece applied to the structure. A piece of timber projecting in the same way was called a "tassel" or a "bragger" in the UK. The technique of corbelling, where rows of corbels deeply keyed inside a wall support a projecting wall or parapet, has been used since Neolithic, or New Stone Age, times. It is common in Medieval architecture and in the Scottish baronial style as well as in the vocabulary of classical architecture, such as the modillions of a Corinthian cornice, Hindu temple architecture and in ancient Chinese architecture.

Saint Olave's survived the Great Fire of London with the help of Sir William Penn, the father of the more famous William Penn who founded Pennsylvania, and his men from the nearby Naval yards. He had ordered the men to blow up the houses surrounding the church to create a fire break. [7] [8] The flames came within 100 yards or so of the building, but then the wind changed direction, saving the church and a number of other churches on the eastern side of the City. [3]

William Penn (Royal Navy officer) English admiral and politician

Sir William Penn was an English admiral and politician who sat in the House of Commons from 1660 to 1670. He was the father of William Penn, founder of the Province of Pennsylvania.

Pennsylvania State of the United States of America

Pennsylvania, officially the Commonwealth of Pennsylvania, is a state located in the northeastern and Mid-Atlantic regions of the United States. The Appalachian Mountains run through its middle. The Commonwealth is bordered by Delaware to the southeast, Maryland to the south, West Virginia to the southwest, Ohio to the west, Lake Erie and the Canadian province of Ontario to the northwest, New York to the north, and New Jersey to the east.

The church was a favourite of the diarist Samuel Pepys, whose house and Royal Navy office were both on Seething Lane. A regular worshipper, he referred to St. Olave's in his diary affectionately as "our own church" [9] In 1660, he had a gallery built on the south wall of the church and added an outside stairway from the Royal Navy Offices so that he could go to church without getting soaked by the rain. The gallery is now gone but a memorial to Pepys marks the location of the stairway's door. In 1669, when his beloved wife Elisabeth died from fever, [10] Pepys had a marble bust of her made by John Bushnell and installed on the north wall of the sanctuary so that he would be able to see her from his pew at the services. In 1703, he was buried next to his wife in the nave. [2] [11]

Samuel Pepys English naval administrator and member of parliament

Samuel Pepys was an administrator of the navy of England and Member of Parliament who is most famous for the diary he kept for a decade while still a relatively young man. Pepys had no maritime experience, but he rose to be the Chief Secretary to the Admiralty under both King Charles II and King James II through patronage, hard work, and his talent for administration. His influence and reforms at the Admiralty were important in the early professionalisation of the Royal Navy.

John Bushnell was an English sculptor, known for several outstanding funeral monuments in English churches and Westminster Abbey.

Nave main body of a church

The nave is the central part of a church, stretching from the main entrance or rear wall, to the transepts, or in a church without transepts, to the chancel. When a church contains side aisles, as in a basilica-type building, the strict definition of the term 'nave' is restricted to the central aisle. In a broader, more colloquial sense, the nave includes all areas available for the lay worshippers, including the side-aisles and transepts. Either way, the nave is distinct from the area reserved for the choir and clergy.

However, it was gutted by German bombs in 1941 during the London Blitz, [12] and was restored in 1954, with King Haakon VII of Norway returning to preside over the rededication ceremony, during which he laid a stone from Trondheim Cathedral in front of the sanctuary.

Between 1948 and 1954, when the restored St Olave's was reopened, a prefabricated church stood on the site of All Hallows Staining. This was known as St Olave Mark Lane. The tower of All Hallows Staining was used as the chancel of the temporary church.

The church was designated a Grade I listed building on 4 January 1950. [13] St Olave's has retained long and historic links with Trinity House and the Clothworkers' Company.

Architecture

Interior of St Olave Church St Olave Church, Hart Street Interior, London, UK - Diliff.jpg
Interior of St Olave Church

St Olave's has a modest exterior in the Perpendicular Gothic style. [1] with a somewhat squat square tower of stone and brick, the latter added in 1732. It is famous for the macabre 1658 entrance arch to the churchyard, which is decorated with grinning skulls. [14] The novelist Charles Dickens was so taken with this that he included the church in his Uncommercial Traveller , renaming it "St Ghastly Grim". [15]

The interior of St Olave's only partially survived the wartime bombing; much of it dates from the restoration of the 1950s. It is nearly square, with three bays separated by columns of Purbeck limestone supporting pointed arches. The roof is a simple oak structure with bosses. Most of the church fittings are modern, but there are some significant survivals, such as the monument to Elizabeth Pepys [16] and the pulpit, said to be the work of Grinling Gibbons. Following the destruction of the organ in the blitz, the John Compton Organ Company built a new instrument in the West Gallery, fronted by a large wooden grille; this organ, and the Rectory behind, is ingeniously structured between church and tower.

In the tower, there is a memorial with an American connection. It honors Monkhouse Davison and Abraham Newman, the grocers of Fenchurch Street who shipped crates of tea to Boston in late 1773. These crates were seized and thrown into the waters during the Boston Tea Party, one of the causes of the American War of Independence. [11]

Perhaps the oddest "person" said to be buried here is the "Pantomime character" Mother Goose. Her burial was recorded by the parish registers on 14 September 1586. [17] A plaque on the outside commemorates this event. The churchyard is also said to contain the grave of one Mary Ramsay, popularly believed to be the woman who brought the Plague to London in 1665. [18] The parish registers have the record of her burial, which was on 24 July 1665. Thereafter, in the same year, the victims of the Great Plague were marked with a 'p' after their names in the registers. [2] [19]

Bells

On the east side of St Olave's, there is a stained glass window depicting Queen Elizabeth I standing with two tall bells at her feet. She held a thanksgiving service at St Olave's on Trinity Sunday, 15 May 1554, while she was still Princess Elizabeth, to celebrate her release from the Tower of London. [20] She had originally given bell-ropes of silk to the All Hallows Staining Church because its bells had rung the loudest of all London bells on the day of her freedom, but, when All Hallows Staining was merged with St. Olave's in 1870, the bell-ropes went with it. [21]

On 11 May 1941, an incendiary bomb was dropped by the Luftwaffe on the tower of the church. The tower, along with the baptistry and other buildings, was "burned out" and the furnishings and monuments destroyed. The heat was so great that even the peal of the eight bells were melted "back into bell metal". In the early 1950s, the bell metal was recast into new bells by the same foundry that created the original bells – the Whitechapel Bell Foundry, in 1662 and 1694. [22] The new bells were then hung in the rebuilt tower.

There are currently nine bells at St Olave's Hart Street consisting of one sanctus bell and eight bells hung for full circle ringing, with the tenor of the eight weighing 11-3-23. [23] The bells are usually rung for practices, which take place on Thursday evenings between 7:00pm and 8:30pm during term time, and for Sunday service between 12:20pm and 13:00pm every Sunday. [24] The bells are currently rung by the University of London Society of Change Ringers (ULSCR) who have a healthy band consisting of past and present members of London Universities, along with other regular supporters.

Organ

An organ was built by Samual Green and finished in 1781. [25] Organists include Mary Hudson, William Shrubsole, and John Turene — all appointed 21 December 1781. [25]

The 1781 organ was destroyed in the Blitz in 1941. After the war, a Harrison & Harrison organ was installed into the rebuilt church. [25]

Peter Turner

The memorial effigy of Peter Turner at St Olave Hart Street Church in 2014 Peter Turner Bust, St Olave Hart St Church, London, UK - Diliff.jpg
The memorial effigy of Peter Turner at St Olave Hart Street Church in 2014

Peter Turner was a notable physician in the 16th early 17th century and adherent of Paracelsus, was buried in the church along with his father William Turner, also a famed physician and naturalist. When he died in 1614, a memorial bust was crafted and placed in the south-east corner of the church. When the church was gutted during the Blitz, the bust went missing. It was not seen until April 2010 when it reappeared at a UK art auction. When it was recognised, the sale was frozen and negotiations took place via The Art Loss Register to return the bust to the church. It was finally returned to its original location within St Olave's in 2011 after an absence of more than 70 years. [26] [27]

Notable people associated with the church

See also

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Monkhouse Davison (1713–1793) was the senior partner in one of the leading grocers in 18th century London, Davison Newman and Co., that imported a wide range of produce including tea, coffee, sugar and spices. The company is probably best known today for the disposal of chests of its tea in the Boston Tea Party. Products branded with the company name are still being sold, over 360 years after its foundation.

References

  1. 1 2 John Betjeman, City of London Churches (London: Pitkin Publishing, 1993), ISBN   978-0-85372-565-7.
  2. 1 2 3 4 Christopher Hibbert, Benjamin Weinreb, Julia Keay and John Keay, The London Encyclopaedia, 3rd Revised Edition (London: Macmillan, 2008), ISBN   978-1-4050-4924-5, pages 802-803.
  3. 1 2 St. Olave's Church Website Archived 2010-03-30 at the Wayback Machine . Retrieved on 2009-12-11.
  4. Herbert Reynolds, The Churches of the City of London (London: John Lane the Bodley Head, 1922).
  5. "The City Churches" Tabor, M. p41:London; The Swarthmore Press Ltd; 1917
  6. Alison Hanham, The Celys and Their World: An English Merchant Family of the Fifteenth Century (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2002), ISBN   978-0-521-52012-6, pages 7 and 318.
  7. Winn (2007) , p. 10
  8. Samuel Pepys, author, and Robert Latham and William Matthews, editors, The Shorter Pepys (Berkeley, California: University of California Press, 1985), page 665. On 5 September 1666, Pepys wrote, "But going to the fire, I find by the blowing up of houses and the great help given by the workmen out of the King's yard sent up by Sir W. Pen, there is a good stop given to it . . . "
  9. Claire Thomalin, Pepys: the Unequalled Self (London: Viking, 2002), ISBN   0-670-88568-1.
  10. Bannerman (1916) , p. 208. Samuel Pepys is not in this book because it stops the list of burials at 1700, three years before his death.
  11. 1 2 Winn (2007) , p. 11
  12. Gerald Cobb, The Old Churches of London (London: B. T. Batsford Ltd., 1942).
  13. Historic England. "Details from image database (199509)". Images of England . Retrieved 23 January 2009.
  14. Simon Bradley and Nikolaus Pevsner, London: the City Churches (New Haven: Yale University Press, 1998), ISBN   0-300-09655-0.
  15. Charles Dickens, "Chapter XXIII: The City of the Absent", The Uncommercial Traveller (New York City: Hurd and Houghton, 1869), page 329.
  16. Tony Tucker, "The Visitors Guide to the City of London Churches" (London: Friends of the City Churches, 2006), ISBN   978-09553945-0-8.
  17. Bannerman (1916) , p. 120
  18. Cambridgeshire Collection – History On The Net
  19. Bannerman (1916) , p. 200. Mary was, according to the registers, "ye first reported to dye of ye plague in this push since this visitac'on, p.: new ch. y'd.".
  20. Rev. Alfred Povah, The Annals of the Parishes of St. Olave Hart Street and All Hallows Staining, in the City of London (London: Blades, East & Blades and Simpkin, Marshall, Hamilton, Kent Co., Ltd., 1894), pages 305–306.
  21. Hunt (1967) , p. 42
  22. Hunt (1967) , pp. 41–42
  23. Love, Dickon. "Church Bells of the City of London – ST OLAVE, Hart Street" . Retrieved 21 February 2012.
  24. "University of London Society of Change Ringers" . Retrieved 21 February 2012.
  25. 1 2 3 Dawe, Donovan (1983). Organists of the City of London, 1666-1850: a record of one thousand organists with an annotated index. D. Dawe. p.  62. ISBN   978-0-9509064-0-9.
  26. "Peter Turner returns to St Olave's after 70 years in exile". Sanctuary in the City. Retrieved 9 June 2014.
  27. "Turner effigy reinstalled in St Olave's". Sanctuary in the City. Retrieved 9 June 2014.
  28. Blackwood, Nicole, "Meta Incognita: Some hypotheses on Cornelis Ketel’s lost English and Inuit portraits". Nederlands Kunsthistorisch Jaarboek 66 (1), 28-53 (see p. 40).
  29. Bannerman (1916) , p. 12
  30. "St. Olave's Churchyard Needs You Archived 2010-03-30 at the Wayback Machine ", St Olave's & St Katherine Cree: Churches with London at heart, retrieved 13 January 2014.
  31. Bannerman (1916) , pp. 14, 15, 17, 117, 128, 129, 251, 252, 254, 255
  32. Bannerman (1916) , p. 141
  33. Bannerman (1916) , p. 132: "Mr. Anthonye Bacon, buried in the chanc'll within the vallt."
  34. Bannerman (1916) , p. 14. Robert, Lord Hereford, was baptized on 22 January 1590. In that year, the New Year did not begin until March so he was actually born in 1591.
  35. Ann Lady Fanshawe, The Memoirs of Ann Lady Fanshawe, Wife of the Right Honble. Sir Richard Fanshawe, Bart., 1600–72, Reprinted from the Original Manuscript in the Possession of Mr. Evelyn John Fanshawe of Parsloes, with Four Photogravure Portraits & Twenty-Nine Other Reproductions (London: John Lane the Bodley Head, 1907), page 17.
  36. Bannerman (1916) , p. 36

Bibliography

Coordinates: 51°30′39.04″N0°4′46.88″W / 51.5108444°N 0.0796889°W / 51.5108444; -0.0796889