The county has an area of 1,663km2 (642 square miles) and a population of 1,214,540. Much of the north of the county forms part of the Greater London Built-up Area,which includes the suburbs within the M25 motorway as well as Woking (103,900),Guildford (77,057),and Leatherhead (32,522). The west of the county contains part of built-up area which includes Camberley,Farnham,and Frimley and which extends into Hampshire and Berkshire. The south of the county is rural,and its largest settlements are Horley (22,693) and Godalming (22,689). For local government purposes Surrey is a non-metropolitan county with eleven districts. The county historically included much of south-west Greater London but excluded what is now the borough of Spelthorne,which was part of Middlesex. It is one of the home counties.
The defining geographical feature of the county is the North Downs,a chalk escarpment which runs from the south-west to north-east and divides the densely populated north from the more rural south;it is pierced by the rivers Wey and Mole,both tributaries of the Thames. The north of the county is a lowland,part of the Thames basin. The south-east is part of the Weald,and the south-west contains the Surrey Hills and Thursley,Hankley and Frensham Commons,an extensive area of heath. The county has the densest woodland cover in England,at 22.4 per cent.
Surrey is divided in two by the chalk ridge of the North Downs,running east–west. The ridge is pierced by the rivers Wey and Mole,tributaries of the Thames,which formed the northern border of the county before modern redrawing of county boundaries,which has left part of its north bank within the county.[5] To the north of the Downs the land is mostly flat,forming part of the basin of the Thames.[5] The geology of this area is dominated by London Clay in the east,Bagshot Sands in the west and alluvial deposits along the rivers.
To the south of the Downs in the western part of the county are the sandstone Surrey Hills,while further east is the plain of the Low Weald,rising in the extreme southeast to the edge of the hills of the High Weald.[5] The Downs and the area to the south form part of a concentric pattern of geological deposits which also extends across southern Kent and most of Sussex,predominantly composed of Wealden Clay,Lower Greensand and the chalk of the Downs.[5]
Surrey is the most wooded county in England,with 22.4% coverage compared to a national average of 11.8%[6] and as such is one of the few counties not to recommend new woodlands in the subordinate planning authorities' plans.In 2020 the Surrey Heath district had the highest proportion of tree cover in England at 41%.[7] Surrey also contains England's principal concentration of lowland heath,on sandy soils in the west of the county.
Agriculture not being intensive,there are many commons and access lands,together with an extensive network of footpaths and bridleways including the North Downs Way,a scenic long-distance path. Accordingly,Surrey provides many rural and semi-rural leisure activities,with a large horse population in modern terms.
The highest elevation in Surrey is Leith Hill near Dorking. It is 295m (968ft) above sea level[8] and is the second highest point in southeastern England after Walbury Hill in West Berkshire which is 297m (974ft).[9]
Surrey rivers
The longest river to enter Surrey is the Thames,which historically formed the boundary between the county and Middlesex. As a result of the 1965 boundary changes,many of the Surrey boroughs on the south bank of the river were transferred to Greater London,shortening the length associated with the county. The Thames now forms the Surrey–Berkshire border between Runnymede and Staines-upon-Thames,before flowing wholly within Surrey to Sunbury,from which point it marks the Surrey–Greater London border as far as Surbiton.
Like the rest of the British Isles,Surrey has a maritime climate with warm summers and cool winters. The Met Office weather station at Wisley,about 6.5 miles (10.5km) to the north-east of Guildford,has recorded temperatures between 37.8°C (100.0°F) (August 2003)[10] and −15.1°C (4.8°F) (January 1982).[11] From 2006 until 2015,the Wisley weather station held the UK July record high of 36.5°C (97.7°F).[12]
The skyline of Woking,the most populous settlement in Surrey,as seen from the western approach by railway
Surrey has a population of approximately 1.1million people.[14] Its largest town is Woking with a population of 105,367,followed by Guildford with 77,057,and Walton-on-Thames with 66,566. Towns of between 30,000 and 50,000 inhabitants include Ewell,and Camberley.[15]
Much of the north of the county,extending to Guildford,is within the Greater London Built-up Area. This is an area of continuous urban sprawl linked without significant interruption of rural area to Greater London. In the west,there is a developing conurbation straddling the Hampshire/Surrey border,including the Surrey towns of Camberley and Farnham.
Guildford is often regarded as the historic county town,[16] although the county administration was moved to Newington in 1791 and to Kingston upon Thames in 1893. The county council's headquarters were outside the county's boundaries from 1 April 1965,when Kingston and other areas were included within Greater London by the London Government Act 1963,[17] until the administration moved to Reigate at the start of 2021.[18]
Before Roman times the area today known as Surrey was probably largely occupied by the Atrebates tribe,centred at Calleva Atrebatum (Silchester),in the modern county of Hampshire,but eastern parts of it may have been held by the Cantiaci,based largely in Kent. The Atrebates are known to have controlled the southern bank of the Thames from Roman texts describing the tribal relations between them and the powerful Catuvellauni on the north bank.
In about AD 42 King Cunobelinus (in Welsh legend Cynfelin ap Tegfan) of the Catuvellauni died and war broke out between his sons and King Verica of the Atrebates. The Atrebates were defeated,their capital captured and their lands made subject to Togodumnus,king of the Catuvellauni,ruling from Camulodunum (Colchester). Verica fled to Gaul and appealed for Roman aid. The Atrebates were allied with Rome during the invasion of Britain in AD43.[19][20]
During the 5th and 6th centuries Surrey was conquered and settled by Saxons. The names of possible tribes inhabiting the area have been conjectured on the basis of place names. These include the Godhelmingas (around Godalming) and Woccingas (between Woking and Wokingham in Berkshire). It has also been speculated that the entries for the Nox gaga and Oht gaga peoples in the Tribal Hidage may refer to two groups living in the vicinity of Surrey. Together their lands were assessed at a total of 7,000 hides,equal to the assessment for Sussex or Essex.
Surrey may have formed part of a larger Middle Saxon kingdom or confederacy,also including areas north of the Thames. The name Surrey is derived from Sūþrīge (or Suthrige),meaning "southern region" (while Bede refers to it as Sudergeona)[24] and this may originate in its status as the southern portion of the Middle Saxon territory. [25][26]
If it ever existed,the Middle Saxon kingdom had disappeared by the 7th century,and Surrey became a frontier area disputed between the kingdoms of Kent,Essex,Sussex,Wessex and Mercia,until its permanent absorption by Wessex in 825. Despite this fluctuating situation it retained its identity as an enduring territorial unit. During the 7th century Surrey became Christian and initially formed part of the East Saxon diocese of London,indicating that it was under East Saxon rule at that time,but was later transferred to the West Saxon diocese of Winchester. Its most important religious institution throughout the Anglo-Saxon period and beyond was Chertsey Abbey,founded in 666. At this point Surrey was evidently under Kentish domination,as the abbey was founded under the patronage of King Ecgberht of Kent.[27][28] However,a few years later at least part of it was subject to Mercia,since in 673–675 further lands were given to Chertsey Abbey by Frithuwald,a local sub-king (subregulus) ruling under the sovereignty of Wulfhere of Mercia.[29] A decade later Surrey passed into the hands of King Caedwalla of Wessex,who also conquered Kent and Sussex,and founded a monastery at Farnham in 686.[30]
The region remained under the control of Caedwalla's successor Ine in the early 8th century.[31] Its political history for most of the 8th century is unclear,although West Saxon control may have broken down around 722,but by 784–785 it had passed into the hands of King Offa of Mercia.[32][33] Mercian rule continued until 825,when following his victory over the Mercians at the Battle of Ellandun,King Egbert of Wessex seized control of Surrey,along with Sussex,Kent and Essex.[34][35][36] It was incorporated into Wessex as a shire and continued thereafter under the rule of the West Saxon kings,who eventually became kings of all of England.
A map showing the traditional boundaries of Surrey (c.800–1899) and its constituent hundreds
In the 9th century England was afflicted,along with the rest of northwestern Europe,by the attacks of ScandinavianVikings. Surrey's inland position shielded it from coastal raiding,so that it was not normally troubled except by the largest and most ambitious Scandinavian armies.
In 851 an exceptionally large invasion force of Danes arrived at the mouth of the Thames in a fleet of about 350 ships,which would have carried over 15,000 men. Having sacked Canterbury and London and defeated King Beorhtwulf of Mercia in battle,the Danes crossed the Thames into Surrey,but were slaughtered by a West Saxon army led by King Æthelwulf in the Battle of Aclea,bringing the invasion to an end.[37]
Two years later the men of Surrey marched into Kent to help their Kentish neighbours fight a raiding force at Thanet,but suffered heavy losses including their ealdorman,Huda.[37] In 892 Surrey was the scene of another major battle when a large Danish army,variously reported at 200,250 and 350 ship-loads,moved west from its encampment in Kent and raided in Hampshire and Berkshire. Withdrawing with their loot,the Danes were intercepted and defeated at Farnham by an army led by Alfred the Great's son Edward,the future King Edward the Elder,and fled across the Thames towards Essex.[38]
Surrey remained safe from attack for over a century thereafter,due to its location and to the growing power of the West Saxon,later English,kingdom. Kingston was the scene for the coronations of Æthelstan in 924 and of Æthelred the Unready in 978,and,according to later tradition,also of other 10th-century Kings of England.[39][40] The renewed Danish attacks during the disastrous reign of Æthelred led to the devastation of Surrey by the army of Thorkell the Tall,which ravaged all of southeastern England in 1009–1011.[41] The climax of this wave of attacks came in 1016,which saw prolonged fighting between the forces of King Edmund Ironside and the Danish king Cnut,including an English victory over the Danes somewhere in northeastern Surrey,but ended with the conquest of England by Cnut.[42]
Cnut's death in 1035 was followed by a period of political uncertainty,as the succession was disputed between his sons. In 1036 Alfred,son of King Æthelred,returned from Normandy,where he had been taken for safety as a child at the time of Cnut's conquest of England. It is uncertain what his intentions were,but after landing with a small retinue in Sussex he was met by Godwin,Earl of Wessex,who escorted him in apparently friendly fashion to Guildford. Having taken lodgings there,Alfred's men were attacked as they slept and killed,mutilated or enslaved by Godwin's followers,while the prince himself was blinded and imprisoned,dying shortly afterwards. This must have contributed to the antipathy between Godwin and Alfred's brother Edward the Confessor,who came to the throne in 1042.
This hostility peaked in 1051,when Godwin and his sons were driven into exile;returning the following year,the men of Surrey rose to support them,along with those of Sussex,Kent,Essex and elsewhere,helping them secure their reinstatement and the banishment of the king's Norman entourage. The repercussions of this antagonism helped bring about the Norman Conquest of England in 1066.[43][44]
The Domesday Book records that the largest landowners in Surrey (then Sudrie)[45] at the end of Edward's reign were Chertsey Abbey and Harold Godwinson,Earl of Wessex and later king,followed by the estates of King Edward himself. Apart from the abbey,most of whose lands were within the shire,Surrey was not the principal focus of any major landowner's holdings,a tendency which was to persist in later periods.[n 1] Given the vast and widespread landed interests and the national and international preoccupations of the monarchy and the earldom of Wessex,the Abbot of Chertsey was therefore probably the most important figure in the local elite.
After the Battle of Hastings,the Norman army advanced through Kent into Surrey,where they defeated an English force which attacked them at Southwark and then burned that suburb. Rather than try to attack London across the river,the Normans continued west through Surrey,crossed the Thames at Wallingford in Berkshire and descended on London from the north-west. As was the case across England,the native ruling class of Surrey was virtually eliminated by Norman seizure of land. Only one significant English landowner,the brother of the last English Abbot of Chertsey,remained by the time the Domesday survey was conducted in 1086.[n 2] At that time the largest landholding in Surrey,as in many other parts of the country,was the expanded royal estate,while the next largest holding belonged to Richard fitz Gilbert,founder of the de Clare family.
In 1088,King William II granted William de Warenne the title of Earl of Surrey as a reward for Warenne's loyalty during the rebellion that followed the death of William I. When the male line of the Warennes became extinct in the 14th century,the earldom was inherited by the FitzalanEarls of Arundel. The Fitzalan line of Earls of Surrey died out in 1415,but after other short-lived revivals in the 15th century the title was conferred in 1483 on the Howard family,who still hold it. However,Surrey was not a major focus of any of these families' interests.
Guildford Castle,one of many fortresses originally established by the Normans to help them subdue the country,was rebuilt in stone and developed as a royal palace in the 12th century.[n 3]Farnham Castle was built during the 12th century as a residence for the Bishop of Winchester,while other stone castles were constructed in the same period at Bletchingley by the de Clares and at Reigate by the Warennes.[46]
During King John's struggle with the barons,Magna Carta was issued in June 1215 at Runnymede near Egham. John's efforts to reverse this concession reignited the war,and in 1216 the barons invited Prince Louis of France to take the throne. Having landed in Kent and been welcomed in London,he advanced across Surrey to attack John,then at Winchester,occupying Reigate and Guildford castles along the way.
Guildford Castle later became one of the favourite residences of King Henry III,who considerably expanded the palace there. During the baronial revolt against Henry,in 1264 the rebel army of Simon de Montfort passed southwards through Surrey on their way to the Battle of Lewes in Sussex. Although the rebels were victorious,soon after the battle royal forces captured and destroyed Bletchingley Castle,whose owner Gilbert de Clare,Earl of Hertford and Gloucester,was de Montfort's most powerful ally.
By the 14th century,castles were of dwindling military importance,but remained a mark of social prestige,leading to the construction of castles at Starborough near Lingfield by Lord Cobham,and at Betchworth by John Fitzalan,whose father had recently inherited the Earldom of Surrey. Though Reigate and Bletchingley remained modest settlements,the role of their castles as local centres for the two leading aristocratic interests in Surrey had enabled them to gain borough status by the early 13th century. As a result,they gained representation in Parliament when it became established towards the end of that century,alongside the more substantial urban settlements of Guildford and Southwark.[47][48] Surrey's third sizeable town,Kingston,despite its size,borough status and historical association with the monarchy,did not gain parliamentary representation until 1832.
Surrey had little political or economic significance in the Middle Ages. Its agricultural wealth was limited by the infertility of most of its soils,and it was not the main power-base of any important aristocratic family,nor the seat of a bishopric.[49] The London suburb of Southwark was a major urban settlement,and the proximity of the capital boosted the wealth and population of the surrounding area,but urban development elsewhere was sapped by the overshadowing predominance of London and by the lack of direct access to the sea. Population pressure in the 12th and 13th centuries initiated the gradual clearing of the Weald,the forest spanning the borders of Surrey,Sussex and Kent,which had hitherto been left undeveloped due to the difficulty of farming on its heavy clay soil.[50][51]
Surrey's most significant source of prosperity in the later Middle Ages was the production of woollen cloth,which emerged during that period as England's main export industry. The county was an early centre of English textile manufacturing,benefiting from the presence of deposits of fuller's earth,the rare mineral composite important in the process of finishing cloth,around Reigate and Nutfield.[52] The industry in Surrey was focused on Guildford,which gave its name to a variety of cloth,gilforte,which was exported widely across Europe and the Middle East and imitated by manufacturers elsewhere in Europe.[53] However,as the English cloth industry expanded,Surrey was outstripped by other growing regions of production.
Though Surrey was not the scene of serious fighting in the various rebellions and civil wars of the period,armies from Kent heading for London via Southwark passed through what were then the extreme north-eastern fringes of Surrey during the Peasants' Revolt of 1381 and Cade's Rebellion in 1450,and at various stages of the Wars of the Roses in 1460,1469 and 1471. The upheaval of 1381 also involved widespread local unrest in Surrey,as was the case all across south-eastern England,and some recruits from Surrey joined the Kentish rebel army.
In 1082 a Cluniac abbey was founded at Bermondsey by Alwine,a wealthy English citizen of London. Waverley Abbey near Farnham,founded in 1128,was the first Cistercian monastery in England. Over the next quarter-century monks spread out from here to found new houses,creating a network of twelve monasteries descended from Waverley across southern and central England. The 12th and early 13th centuries also saw the establishment of Augustinian priories at Merton,Newark,Tandridge,Southwark and Reigate. A Dominican friary was established at Guildford by Henry III's widow Eleanor of Provence,in memory of her grandson who had died at Guildford in 1274. In the 15th century a Carthusian priory was founded by King Henry V at Sheen. These would all perish,along with the still important Benedictine abbey of Chertsey,in the 16th-century Dissolution of the Monasteries.
Now fallen into disuse,some English counties had nicknames for those raised there such as a 'tyke' from Yorkshire,or a 'yellowbelly' from Lincolnshire. In the case of Surrey,the term was a 'Surrey capon',from Surrey's role in the later Middle Ages as the county where chickens were fattened up for the London meat markets.[citation needed]
Under the early Tudor kings,magnificent royal palaces were constructed in northeastern Surrey,conveniently close to London. At Richmond an existing royal residence was rebuilt on a grand scale under King Henry VII,who also founded a Franciscanfriary nearby in 1499. The still more spectacular palace of Nonsuch was later built for Henry VIII near Ewell.[54] The palace at Guildford Castle had fallen out of use long before,but a royal hunting lodge existed outside the town. All these have since been demolished.
During the Cornish Rebellion of 1497,the rebels heading for London briefly occupied Guildford and fought a skirmish with a government detachment on Guildown outside the town,before marching on to defeat at Blackheath in Kent.[55] The forces of Wyatt's Rebellion in 1554 passed through what was then northeastern Surrey on their way from Kent to London,briefly occupying Southwark and then crossing the Thames at Kingston after failing to storm London Bridge.
Hand-drawn map of Kent,Sussex,Surrey and Middlesex from 1575
Surrey's cloth industry declined in the 16th century and collapsed in the 17th,harmed by falling standards and competition from more effective producers in other parts of England. The iron industry in the Weald,whose rich deposits had been exploited since prehistoric times,expanded and spread from its base in Sussex into Kent and Surrey after 1550.[56] New furnace technology stimulated further growth in the early 17th century,but this hastened the extinction of the business as the mines were worked out.[57] However,this period also saw the emergence of important new industries,centred on the valley of the Tillingbourne,south-east of Guildford,which often adapted watermills originally built for the now moribund cloth industry. The production of brass goods and wire in this area was relatively short-lived,falling victim to competitors in the Midlands in the mid-17th century,but the manufacture of paper and gunpowder proved more enduring. For a time in the mid-17th century the Surrey mills were the main producers of gunpowder in England.[58][59][60][61]
A glass industry also developed in the mid-16th century on the southwestern borders of Surrey,but had collapsed by 1630,as the wood-fired Surrey glassworks were surpassed by emerging coal-fired works elsewhere in England.[62][58] The Wey Navigation,opened in 1653,was one of England's first canal systems.[63][64]
Southwark expanded rapidly in this period,and by 1600,if considered as a separate entity,it was the second-largest urban area in England,behind only London itself. Parts of it were outside the jurisdiction of the government of the City of London,and as a result the area of Bankside became London's principal entertainment district,since the social control exercised there by the local authorities of Surrey was less effective and restrictive than that of the City authorities.[65] Bankside was the scene of the golden age of Elizabethan and Jacobean theatre,with the work of playwrights including William Shakespeare,Christopher Marlowe,Ben Jonson and John Webster performed in its playhouses.[66] The leading actor and impresario Edward Alleyn founded the College of God's Gift in Dulwich with an endowment including an art collection,which was later expanded and opened to the public in 1817,becoming Britain's first public art gallery.
Surrey almost entirely escaped the direct impact of fighting during the main phase of the English Civil War in 1642–1646. The local Parliamentarian gentry led by Sir Richard Onslow were able to secure the county without difficulty on the outbreak of war. Farnham Castle was briefly occupied by the advancing Royalists in late 1642,but was easily stormed by the Parliamentarians under Sir William Waller. A new Royalist offensive in late 1643 saw skirmishing around Farnham between Waller's forces and Ralph Hopton's Royalists,but these brief incursions into the western fringes of Surrey marked the limits of Royalist advances on the county. At the end of 1643 Surrey combined with Kent,Sussex and Hampshire to form the South-Eastern Association,a military federation modelled on Parliament's existing Eastern Association.[67]
In the uneasy peace that followed the Royalists' defeat,a political crisis in summer 1647 saw Sir Thomas Fairfax's New Model Army pass through Surrey on their way to occupy London,and subsequent billeting of troops in the county caused considerable discontent.[67] During the brief Second Civil War of 1648,the Earl of Holland entered Surrey in July,hoping to ignite a Royalist revolt. He raised his standard at Kingston and advanced south,but found little support. After confused manoeuvres between Reigate and Dorking as Parliamentary troops closed in,his force of 500 men fled northwards and was overtaken and routed at Kingston.
Surrey had a central role in the history of the radical political movements unleashed by the civil war. In October 1647 the first manifesto of the movement that became known as the Levellers,The Case of the Armie Truly Stated,was drafted at Guildford by the elected representatives of army regiments and civilian radicals from London. This document combined specific grievances with wider demands for constitutional change on the basis of popular sovereignty. It formed the template for the more systematic and radical Agreement of the People,drafted by the same men later that month. It also led to the Putney Debates shortly afterwards,in which its signatories met with Oliver Cromwell and other senior officers in the Surrey village of Putney,where the army had established its headquarters,to argue over the future political constitution of England. In 1649 the Diggers,led by Gerrard Winstanley,established their communal settlement at St. George's Hill near Weybridge to implement egalitarian ideals of common ownership,but were eventually driven out by the local landowners through violence and litigation. A smaller Digger commune was then established near Cobham,but suffered the same fate in 1650.[68][69]
Modern history
Prior to the Great Reform Act of 1832,Surrey returned fourteen Members of Parliament (MPs),two representing the county and two each from the six boroughs of Bletchingley,Gatton,Guildford,Haslemere,Reigate and Southwark. For two centuries before the Reform Act,the dominant political network in Surrey was that of the Onslows of Clandon Park,a gentry family established in the county from the early 17th century,who were raised to the peerage in 1716. Members of the family won at least one of Surrey's two county seats in all but three of the 30 general elections between 1628 and 1768,while they took one or both of the seats for their local borough of Guildford in every election from 1660 to 1830,usually representing the Whig Party after its emergence in the late 1670s. Successive heads of the family held the post of Lord Lieutenant of Surrey continuously from 1716 to 1814.
Until the modern era Surrey,apart from its northeastern corner,was quite sparsely populated in comparison with many parts of southern England,and remained somewhat rustic despite its proximity to the capital. Communications began to improve,and the influence of London to increase,with the development of turnpike roads and a stagecoach system in the 18th century.[72][73] A far more profound transformation followed with the arrival of the railways,beginning in the late 1830s.[74] The availability of rapid transport enabled prosperous London workers to settle all across Surrey and travel daily to work in the capital. This phenomenon of commuting brought explosive growth to Surrey's population and wealth,and tied its economy and society inextricably to London.
There was rapid expansion in existing towns like Guildford,Farnham,and most spectacularly Croydon,while new towns such as Woking and Redhill emerged beside the railway lines.[75][76] The huge numbers of incomers to the county and the transformation of rural,farming communities into a "commuter belt" contributed to a decline in the traditional local culture,including the gradual demise of the distinctive Surrey dialect. This may have survived among the "Surrey Men" into the late 19th century,but is now extinct.[citation needed]
Meanwhile,London itself spread swiftly across north-eastern Surrey. In 1800 it extended only to Vauxhall;a century later the city's growth had reached as far as Putney and Streatham. This expansion was reflected in the creation of the County of London in 1889,detaching the areas subsumed by the city from Surrey. The expansion of London continued in the 20th century,engulfing Croydon,Kingston and many smaller settlements. This led to a further contraction of Surrey in 1965 with the creation of Greater London,under the London Government Act 1963;however,Staines and Sunbury-on-Thames,previously in Middlesex,were transferred to Surrey,extending the county across the Thames.[77] Surrey's boundaries were altered again in 1974 when Gatwick Airport was transferred to West Sussex.[78]
In 1849 Brookwood Cemetery was established near Woking to serve the population of London,connected to the capital by its own railway service. It soon developed into the largest burial ground in the world[citation needed]. Woking was also the site of Britain's first crematorium,which opened in 1878,and its first mosque,founded in 1889.[citation needed] In 1881 Godalming became the first town in the world with a public electricity supply.[79]
The eastern part of Surrey was transferred from the Diocese of Winchester to that of Rochester in 1877. In 1905 this area was separated to form a new Diocese of Southwark. The rest of the county,together with part of eastern Hampshire,was separated from Winchester in 1927 to become the Diocese of Guildford,whose cathedral was consecrated in 1961.
During the later 19th century Surrey became important in the development of architecture in Britain and the wider world. Its traditional building forms made a significant contribution to the vernacular revival architecture associated with the Arts and Crafts Movement,and would exert a lasting influence. The prominence of Surrey peaked in the 1890s,when it was the focus for globally important developments in domestic architecture,in particular the early work of Edwin Lutyens,who grew up in the county and was greatly influenced by its traditional styles and materials.[80][81][82]
Dennis Sabre fire engine
The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw the demise of Surrey's long-standing industries manufacturing paper and gunpowder. Most of the county's paper mills closed in the years after 1870,and the last survivor shut in 1928. Gunpowder production fell victim to the First World War,which brought about a huge expansion of the British munitions industry,followed by sharp contraction and consolidation when the war ended,leading to the closure of the Surrey powder mills.
New industrial developments included the establishment of the vehicle manufacturers Dennis Brothers in Guildford in 1895. Beginning as a maker of bicycles and then of cars,the firm soon shifted into the production of commercial and utility vehicles,becoming internationally important as a manufacturer of fire engines and buses. Though much reduced in size and despite multiple changes of ownership,this business continues to operate in Guildford. Kingston and nearby Ham became a centre of aircraft manufacturing,with the establishment in 1912 of the Sopwith Aviation Company and in 1920 of its successor H.G. Hawker Engineering,which later became Hawker Aviation and then Hawker Siddeley.
"Dragon's teeth" antitank obstacles by the River Wey
During the Second World War a section of the GHQ Stop Line,a system of pillboxes,gun emplacements,anti-tank obstacles and other fortifications,was constructed along the North Downs. This line,running from Somerset to Yorkshire,was intended as the principal fixed defence of London and the industrial core of England against the threat of invasion. German invasion plans envisaged that the main thrust of their advance inland would cross the North Downs at the gap in the ridge formed by the Wey valley,thus colliding with the defence line around Guildford.
Between the wars Croydon Airport,opened in 1920,served as the main airport for London,but it was superseded after the Second World War by Heathrow,and closed in 1959. Gatwick Airport,where commercial flights began in 1933,expanded greatly in the 1950s and 1960s,but the area occupied by the airport was transferred from Surrey to West Sussex in 1974.[citation needed]
Numerous medieval churches exist in Surrey,but the county's parish churches are typically relatively small and simple,and experienced particularly widespread destruction and remodelling of their form in the course of Victorian restoration. Important medieval[88] church interiors survive at Chaldon,Lingfield,Stoke D'Abernon,Compton and Dunsfold. Large monastic churches fell into ruin after their institutions were dissolved,although fragments of Waverley Abbey and Newark Priory survive. Southwark Priory,no longer in Surrey has survived,though much altered,and is now Southwark Cathedral. Farnham Castle largely retains its medieval structure,while the keep and fragments of the curtain walls and palace buildings survive at Guildford Castle.[89]
For purposes other than local government the administrative county of Surrey and county borough of Croydon continued to form a "county of Surrey" to which a Lord Lieutenant and Custos Rotulorum (chief magistrate) and a High Sheriff were appointed.
Surrey had been administered from Newington since the 1790s, and the county council was initially based in the sessions house there. As Newington was included in the County of London, it lay outside the area administered by the council, and a site for a new county hall within the administrative county was sought. By 1890 six towns were being considered: Epsom, Guildford, Kingston, Redhill, Surbiton and Wimbledon.[96] In 1891 it was decided to build the new County Hall at Kingston, and the building opened in 1893,[97] but this site was also overtaken by the growing London conurbation, and by the 1930s most of the north of the county had been built over, becoming outer suburbs of London, although continuing to form part of Surrey administratively.
In 1960 the report of the Herbert Commission recommended that much of north Surrey (including Kingston and Croydon) be included in a new "Greater London". These recommendations were enacted in highly modified form in 1965 by the London Government Act 1963. The areas that now form the London Boroughs of Croydon, Kingston, Merton, and Sutton and that part of Richmond south of the River Thames, were transferred from Surrey to Greater London. At the same time part of the county of Middlesex, which had been abolished by the legislation, was added to Surrey. This area now forms the borough of Spelthorne.
Further local government reform under the Local Government Act 1972 took place in 1974. The 1972 Act abolished administrative counties and introduced non-metropolitan counties in their place. The boundaries of the non-metropolitan county of Surrey were similar to those of the administrative county with the exception of Gatwick Airport and some surrounding land which was transferred to West Sussex. It was originally proposed that the parishes of Horley and Charlwood would become part of West Sussex; however this met fierce local opposition and it was reversed by the Charlwood and Horley Act 1974.
Today
Following the elections of May 2021 the County Councillors' party affiliations were as follows:[98]
As of 2 May 2019, the Conservative local councillors controlled 4 out of 11 councils in Surrey, the Liberal Democrats controlled Mole Valley, the Residents Associations of Epsom and Ewell controlled Epsom and Ewell, and the remaining 5 are in No Overall Control. Of the five No Overall Control councils, Elmbridge and Waverley were both run by coalitions of Residents and Liberal Democrats, Guildford was run by a Liberal Democrats minority administration, and Tandridge and Woking were both run by Conservative minority administrations.
M23 (north–south) in effect connects Croydon to Brighton as the dualled A23 trunk road to the north and beyond Crawley. It has junction to a spur to Gatwick Airport on the Surrey/Sussex border. It has a Surrey junction, the M25 Merstham interchange, close to the Reigate M25 junction.
Other major roads include:
The A3 trunk road from Portsmouth to London. The road now bypasses and historically assisted in the growth of Haslemere, Godalming, Guildford, Esher and Kingston upon Thames. The Hindhead Tunnel bypasses a former bottleneck at Hindhead and the Devil's Punchbowl.
The A24 from London to Littlehampton and Worthing. In Surrey, it passes through or around Ewell, Epsom, Ashtead, Leatherhead and Dorking. It passes Box Hill, near Dorking. Unlike the A3, which is almost completely dual carriageway, the A24 is, apart from a central Surrey stretch, single carriageway; it bypasses Leatherhead, Dorking and Horsham.
The short A331 connects the A31 to the M3. It runs along the Surrey-Hampshire border, bypassing Aldershot, Frimley and Farnborough.
Rail
Much of Surrey lies within the London commuter belt with regular services into Central London. South Western Railway is the sole train operator in Elmbridge, Runnymede, Spelthorne, Surrey Heath, Woking and Waverley, and the main train operator in the Borough of Guildford, running regular services into London Waterloo and regional services towards the south coast and South west. Southern is the main train operator in Mole Valley, Epsom and Ewell and Reigate and Banstead and the sole train operator in Tandridge, providing services into London Bridge and London Victoria.
Consequently, the towns Staines, Woking, Guildford, Walton-on-Thames, Epsom and Ewell and Reigate and Redhill, statistically the largest examples,[100] are established rapid-transit commuter towns for Central London. The above routes have had a stimulative effect. The relative development of Surrey at the time of the Beeching cuts led to today's retention of numerous other commuter routes except the Cranleigh Line, all with direct services to London, including:
Fairoaks Airport on the edge of Chobham and Ottershaw is 2.3 miles (3.7km) from Woking town centre and operates as a private airfield with two training schools and is home to other aviation businesses.
The UK has a comprehensive, state-funded education system, accordingly Surrey has 37 state secondary schools, 17 Academies, 7 sixth form colleges and 55 state primaries. The county has 41 independent schools, including Charterhouse (one of the nine independent schools mentioned in the Public Schools Act 1868) and the Royal Grammar School, Guildford. More than half the state secondary schools in Surrey have sixth forms. Brooklands (twinned with a site in Ashford, Surrey), Reigate, Esher, Egham, Woking and Waverley host sixth-form equivalent colleges each with technical specialisations and standard sixth-form study courses. Brooklands College offers aerospace and automotive design, engineering and allied study courses reflecting the aviation and motor industry leading UK research and maintenance hubs nearby.
A canal system, the Wey and Godalming Navigations is administered at Dapdune Wharf in Guildford, where an exhibition commemorates the work of the canal system and is home to a restored Wey barge, the Reliance. The Wey and Arun Canal is being restored by volunteers with hopes of a future full reopening.
Epsom Downs Racecourse is the venue for the most prestigious event in British flat horse-racing, the Derby, which has been held there most years since 1780. Surrey is also home to Lingfield, Kempton and Sandown Park Racecourses, presenting an unusually high concentration in one county.[104]
Brooklands between Woking and Weybridge was the world's first purpose-built motorsport race circuit, opened in 1907.[105][106] The headquarters of the McLarenFormula One team are at Woking. James Hunt, the 1976 Formula 1 World Driver's Champion was born in Belmont, Sutton, then part of Surrey, in 1947.
Surrey is one of a handful of English counties with no teams in the top 92 football teams, the Football League. Its leading team is Woking, currently playing in the fifth-tier National League.
Golf has been played in the county since before 1900 most notably as international venue Wentworth; by 2013 a 142nd co-existing Surrey golf course was in planning consultation; 141 were recorded by The Daily Telegraph newspaper.[108]
Rowing clubs include Molesey (with an elite development programme hosting several leading British Rowing crews), Walton, (one of the UK's top clubs in the junior category), Weybridge, Weybridge Ladies,[109] Weybridge Mariners,[110]Burway, Staines and Guildford[111] whose top female quad boat won Henley Women's in 2012.
Volleyball teams include BA, Friends Provident and Guildford International Volleyball Club[112] (whose elite men's team has won the 1st of the 4 National Divisions), while twelve clubs in Surrey and three in south-west Greater London compete in the Surrey Volleyball League.
John Evelyn (1620–1706) was born and spent much of his life in Wotton, and is buried there.
Daniel Defoe (1659/61–1731) was educated in Dorking.
William Cobbett (1763–1835) was born and raised in Farnham, later lived in Wyke, where he died, and is buried in Farnham; Surrey features prominently in his Rural Rides.
Lewis Carroll (1832–1898) spent much of his time at his sisters' home in Guildford, where he wrote Through the Looking-Glass; he died there and is buried in the town.
Isabella Beeton (1836–1865) lived for several years in Epsom, where her step-father was clerk of the racecourse.
Eadweard Muybridge (1830–1904), photographer, was born and raised in Kingston, then part of Surrey.
Gertrude Jekyll (1843–1932), garden designer, lived for much of her life at Munstead near Godalming, created significant gardens in Surrey and is buried in Busbridge.
Edwin Lutyens (1869–1944), architect, grew up in Thursley; many of his early works were built in Surrey, including collaborations with Gertrude Jekyll.
Ralph Vaughan Williams (1872–1958), composer, grew up at Leith Hill and later lived in Dorking.
The "Surrey Delta" produced many of the musicians in 1960s British blues movements. The Rolling Stones developed their music at the Crawdaddy Club in Richmond.
↑ Domesday Book valued the Surrey estates of Chertsey Abbey in 1066 at £189 a year, the abbey's only other holdings being £11 worth in Berkshire. Harold's lands in Surrey were valued at £175 a year, while another £15 worth were still entered under the name of his late father Earl Godwin. The revenues of King Edward's Surrey estates totalled £117, Queen Edith's £76, the Archbishopric of Canterbury's £66 and the Bishopric of Winchester's £55, all fractions of vast national holdings. The earl with jurisdiction over Surrey, Harold's brother Leofwine, held only £17 there, from a national total of £290, whose greatest concentrations were in Kent and Sussex, while his mother, Godwin's widow Gytha, held £16 from a total of £590, chiefly clustered in Devon, Wiltshire and Sussex. The other great landowners with Surrey estates were the thegns Ætsere, Ægelnoð and Osward. Ætsere held £61 in Surrey, from a total of £271 including £163 in Sussex, Ægelnoð held £40, from a total of £260 including £71 in Kent, £58 in Sussex and £50 in Oxfordshire, and Osward held £26, from a total of £109 including £65 in Kent, where he was also sheriff. Donald Henson, The English Elite in 1066: Gone but not forgotten (Hockwold-cum-Wilton 2001), pp. 20–23, 26–27, 32–34, 39, 49–50, 64–65, 70, 73, 85, 179–181.
↑ This was Oswald, whose brother Wulfwold, Abbot of Chertsey and Bath, died in 1084. Oswald was one of the small number of English landowners who managed to increase their holdings in the wake of the conquest: his estates, centred on Effingham, were valued at £18 a year in 1066, but the acquisition of additional manors raised this to £35 by 1086. His descendants, the de La Leigh family, relinquished the majority of their Surrey lands in the 12th century, but remained landowners in the county until the early 14th century. One of them, William de La Leigh, served as Sheriff of Surrey in 1267.
↑ Besides the castles built or rebuilt in stone, remains of Norman castles of earth and timber have been identified at Abinger, Cranleigh, Thunderfield, and Walton-on-the-Hill.[46]
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