The Whole Beast

Last updated

The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating
The Whole Beast- Nose to Tail Eating.jpg
Cover for The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating
Author Fergus Henderson
CountryEngland
LanguageEnglish
Subject Pig
Genre Non-fiction
Publisher HarperCollins
Publication date
2004
Media typeHardback
Pages224
ISBN 0-06-058536-6
Followed byBeyond Nose to Tail 

The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating is a 2004 book by Fergus Henderson that deals with how to cook every part of a pig, including parts rarely used in western cuisine, such as offal. It was originally released as Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking in England in 1999, but was updated and revamped to be more comprehensive for the American edition, [1] which was also re-released in the UK. [2] The updated release featured a foreword written by Anthony Bourdain, author of Kitchen Confidential . [3]

Contents

The New Yorker has described the book as the "' Ulysses' of the whole Slow Food movement" because of its international readership. [4] The New York Magazine considered it to be a "cult cookbook". [5]

In 2000, The Whole Beast was given the André Simon Award for gastronomic literature. [6]

Summary

The book features a number of recipes that, in total, utilize every part of the pig. In addition, it features a number of "techniques for brining, salting, pickling and preserving in fat", including explanations on how to "clear stock with egg whites and shells, how to bone out a trotter and how to bake bread using a tiny quantity of yeast for tastier results". [3] It also includes descriptions on methods of "making stocks and the old-fashioned skill of rendering". [7] The book also includes a few black and white photos that serve as decoration and example for the dishes and pieces of meat involved and discussed. [8]

A famous quote from the book, and personal slogan of Henderson that is often cited by newspapers and used by master chefs reads, "If you're going to kill the animal it seems only polite to use the whole thing." [9]

Style

Amanda Hesser of the New York Times said that Henderson has "a lovely writing voice, as well, so the text, largely recipes, has a rare lyrical charm. An ingredient might be 'a large knob of butter' or 'a good supply of toast'". [1] Kurt Timmermeister, author of Growing a Farmer: How I Learned to Live Off the Land, stated that the book "has a style [...] that I love: clean, crisp and confident with a touch of humor". [10] Fay Maschler of the London Evening Standard explained that "Fergus the man comes across in the writing. You can almost see and hear his curvaceous smile, joyful semaphore and barks of 'Ah ha!'". [11]

Critical reception

Jonathan Reynolds of the New York Times praised Henderson's use of various, generally undesirable parts of the pig and pointed out that the book was "filled with sly observations and unpredictable advice about ingredients other than offal" as well. [12] Also for the New York Times, Dwight Garner called the book a "terrifically dour, Edward Gorey-ish guide to cooking with offal: everything from pig's trotters and lamb's kidneys to brains, tripe, spleen, heart and tongue." [13]

Elizabeth Johnson of The Journal News considered first editions of the book to be "collector's items" because of its popularity. [14]

Lucy Waverman of The Globe and Mail said that its "dry humour and vivid imagery is a refreshing change from traditional recipe writing". [15]

Aileen Reid of The Daily Telegraph called it a "surprisingly refined book" that is "beautifully and elegantly written". [7]

Stephanie Alexander of The Age considered it to be an "absolute gem" and a "triumph of book design." [16] Two years later for The Age, Necia Wilden wrote that the book was "a sleeper that went from underground classic to foodies' must-have". [17]

See also

Related Research Articles

Amanda Hesser is an American food writer, editor, cookbook author and entrepreneur. Most notably, she was the food editor of The New York Times Magazine, the editor of T Living, a quarterly publication of The New York Times, author of The Essential New York Times Cookbook which was a The New York Times bestseller, and co-founder and CEO of Food52.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Recipe</span> Instructions for preparing food

A recipe is a set of instructions that describes how to prepare or make something, especially a dish of prepared food. A sub-recipe or subrecipe is a recipe for an ingredient that will be called for in the instructions for the main recipe.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Offal</span> Internal organs and entrails of a butchered animal

Offal, also called variety meats, pluck or organ meats, is the organs of a butchered animal. The word does not refer to a particular list of edible organs, which varies by culture and region, but usually excludes skeletal muscle. Offal may also refer to the by-products of milled grains, such as corn or wheat.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Gastronomy</span> Study of food

Gastronomy is the study of the relationship between food and culture, the art of preparing and serving rich or delicate and appetizing food, the cooking styles of particular regions, and the science of good eating. One who is well versed in gastronomy is called a gastronome, while a gastronomist is one who unites theory and practice in the study of gastronomy. Practical gastronomy is associated with the practice and study of the preparation, production, and service of the various foods and beverages, from countries around the world. Theoretical gastronomy supports practical gastronomy. It is related with a system and process approach, focused on recipes, techniques and cookery books. Food gastronomy is connected with food and beverages and their genesis. Technical gastronomy underpins practical gastronomy, introducing a rigorous approach to evaluation of gastronomic topics.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Heston Blumenthal</span> English chef

Heston Marc Blumenthal is a British celebrity chef, TV personality and food writer. Blumenthal is regarded as a pioneer of multi-sensory cooking, food pairing and flavour encapsulation. He came to public attention with unusual recipes, such as bacon-and-egg ice cream and snail porridge. His recipes for triple-cooked chips and soft-centred Scotch eggs have been widely imitated. He has advocated a scientific approach to cooking, for which he has been awarded honorary degrees from Reading, Bristol and London universities and made an honorary Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fergus Henderson</span> English chef

Fergus Henderson is an English chef who founded the restaurant St John on St John Street in London. He is often noted for his use of offal and other neglected cuts of meat as a consequence of his philosophy of nose to tail eating. Following in the footsteps of his parents, Brian and Elizabeth Henderson, he trained as an architect at the Architectural Association in London. Most of his dishes are derived from traditional British cuisine and the wines are all French.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">St. John (restaurant)</span> Restaurant in London, England

St. JOHN is an English restaurant on St John Street in Smithfield, London. It was opened in October 1994 by Trevor Gulliver, Fergus Henderson, and Jon Spiteri on the premises of a former bacon smoke-house. Under Henderson's guidance as head chef, St. JOHN has specialised in "nose to tail eating", with a devotion to offal and other cuts of meat rarely seen in restaurants, often reclaiming traditional British recipes. Typical dishes include pigs' ears, ducks' hearts, trotters, pigs' tails, bone marrow and, when in season, squirrel. As a result, St. JOHN has developed a following amongst gastronomic circles: "chefs, foodies, food writers and cooks on sabbatical".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chris Cosentino</span> American celebrity chef and reality television personality

Chris Cosentino is an American celebrity chef and reality television personality known as the winner of Top Chef Masters, a competitor on The Next Iron Chef and for his appearances on Iron Chef America. He is known for his haute cuisine offal dishes, and was chef-partner at Incanto in San Francisco. Forbes Traveler called Incanto "perhaps America's most adventurous nose-to-tail restaurant … On offer are lamb's necks, pig trotters and a five-course nose-to-tail tasting menu perhaps including venison kidneys and chocolate-blood panna cotta." Incanto closed on March 24, 2014. In December 2014, he opened Cockscomb, a restaurant centered around his updated interpretations of classic San Francisco dishes.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pork</span> Meat from a pig

Pork is the culinary name for the meat of the pig. It is the most commonly consumed meat worldwide, with evidence of pig husbandry dating back to 5000 BCE.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Faggot (food)</span> Traditional dish in the United Kingdom

Faggots are meatballs made from minced off-cuts and offal, especially pork together with herbs for flavouring and sometimes added bread crumbs. It is a traditional dish in the United Kingdom, especially South and Mid Wales and the English Midlands.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bacon Explosion</span> American pork dish

A Bacon Explosion is a pork dish that consists of bacon wrapped around a filling of spiced sausage and crumbled bacon. The American-football-sized dish is then smoked or baked. It became known after being posted on the BBQ Addicts blog, and spread to the mainstream press with numerous stories discussing the dish. In time, the articles began to discuss the Internet "buzz" itself.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Chocolate-covered bacon</span> American dish

Chocolate-covered bacon is an American dish that consists of cooked bacon with a coating of either milk chocolate or dark chocolate. It can be topped with sea salt, crumbled pistachios, walnuts, or almond bits. References on the internet date back at least to 2005. The popularity of the dish has spread worldwide, and the dish has featured on television shows about food. A variant has been served at state fairs, where the bacon is served with chocolate sauce for dipping, and the dish has been developed into a gourmet food bar.

<i>Everything Tastes Better with Bacon</i> 2002 cookbook by Sara Perry

Everything Tastes Better with Bacon: 70 Fabulous Recipes for Every Meal of the Day is a book about cooking with bacon written by Sara Perry. She is an author, food commentator and columnist for The Oregonian. The book was published in the United States on May 1, 2002, by Chronicle Books, and in a French language edition in 2004 by Les Éditions de l'Homme in Montreal. In it, Perry describes her original concept of recipes combining sugar and bacon. Her book includes recipes for bacon-flavored dishes and desserts.

<i>I Love Bacon!</i> Cookbook by Ben Fink

I Love Bacon! is a cookbook with over fifty recipes devoted to bacon and bacon dishes, many of them from celebrity chefs. The book was written by Jayne Rockmill and photography was provided by Ben Fink. Broken down into eight sections, the book covered how to make homemade bacon and moves onto "brunch" and "small bites" before covering soups, salads and sides, pasta, fish, meat, and desserts. I Love Bacon! was published in October 2010 by Andrews McMeel Publishing and met with favorable reviews for its unique dishes and helpful culinary tips for novices.

<i>Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing</i>

Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing is a 2005 book by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn about using the process of charcuterie to cure various meats, including bacon, pastrami, and sausage. The book received extremely positive reviews from numerous food critics and newspapers, causing national attention to be brought to the method of charcuterie. Because of the high amount of interest, copies of the book sold out for a period of a few months at Amazon and Barnes & Noble.

Lucy Waverman is a Toronto-based food journalist, editor, columnist, food consultant and cookbook author. Her Wednesday food column "Weekend Menu" and Saturday column "Fresh Tastes" appear in The Globe and Mail, Canada's national newspaper, and she is the Food Editor of Food & Drink, a magazine published by the Liquor Control Board of Ontario. She has done extensive recipe and product development for major companies, restaurants and public relations firms. She has also appeared on television and radio shows across Canada and the United States, including 12 years with Citytv's CityLine.

<i>A History of English Food</i>

A History of English Food is a history of English cuisine from the Middle Ages to the end of the twentieth century written by the celebrity cook Clarissa Dickson Wright. Each era is treated in turn with a chapter. The text combines history, recipes, and anecdotes, and is illustrated with 32 pages of colour plates.

Angie Mar is an American chef and restaurateur. She owns and operates Les Trois Chevaux in New York City.

The Essential New York Times Cookbook is a cookbook published by W. W. Norton & Company and authored by former The New York Times food editor Amanda Hesser. The book was originally published in October 2010 and contains over 1,400 recipes from the past 150 years in The New York Times, all of which were tested by Hesser and her assistant, Merrill Stubbs, prior to the book's publication. The book has recipes dating from the mid 1850s, when The New York Times first began publishing topics about food and recipes.

References

  1. 1 2 Amanda Hesser (15 October 2003). "For a Genius of the Off-Cut, Lunch Time Is the Right Time". The New York Times . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  2. Donna Lee Brien (October 2010). ""Porky Times": A Brief Gastrobiography of New York's The Spotted Pig". The Australian Journal of Media & Culture. 13 (5). Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  3. 1 2 Ian Douglas (25 October 2004). "Swine of the times". The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  4. "Two Cooks". The New Yorker. 29 August 2005. Retrieved 4 March 2023.
  5. Daniel Maurer (21 May 2005). "A Thin Line between Yum and Yuck". New York Magazine . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  6. Witherspoon, Kimberly; Friedman, Andrew (2007). Don't Try This at Home: Culinary Catastrophes from the World's Greatest Chefs. Bloomsbury Publishing. p. 154. ISBN   9781596919402.
  7. 1 2 Aileen Reid (12 December 2004). "All in the best possible taste (mostly)". The Daily Telegraph . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  8. Isabelle de Solier. "Cookery Books as History: Australian and New Zealand Approaches". The University of Adelaide. Archived from the original on 31 January 2014. Retrieved 18 June 2011.{{cite journal}}: Cite journal requires |journal= (help)CS1 maint: bot: original URL status unknown (link)
  9. Lipkowitz, Ina (2011). Words to Eat By: Five Foods and the Culinary History of the English Language . St. Martin's Press. p.  204 . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  10. Timmermeister, Kurt (2011). Growing a Farmer: How I Learned to Live Off the Land. W. W. Norton & Company. p. 325. ISBN   9780393080667.
  11. Fay Maschler (1 June 1999). "Buying the book of the meal". London Evening Standard . Archived from the original on 14 September 2012. Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  12. Jonathan Reynolds (20 June 2004). "FOOD; Sexy Beast". The New York Times . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  13. Deight Garner (6 June 2004). "Cooking". The New York Times . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  14. Elizabeth Johnson (4 May 2005). "Going whole hog". The Journal News . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  15. Lucy Waverman (15 February 2011). "Comfort food supreme from two seasoned chefs". The Globe and Mail . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  16. Stephanie Alexander (30 November 2004). "A nice bit of tail". The Age . Retrieved 18 June 2011.
  17. Necia Wilden (28 November 2006). "Getting an earful". The Age . Retrieved 18 June 2011.

Further reading