Kipper

Last updated

Kippered "split" herring Kipper.JPG
Kippered "split" herring

A kipper is a whole herring, a small, oily fish, [1] that has been split in a butterfly fashion from tail to head along the dorsal ridge, gutted, salted or pickled, and cold-smoked over smouldering wood chips (typically oak).

Contents

In the United Kingdom, Republic of Ireland and some regions of North America, kippers are most commonly eaten for breakfast. In the United Kingdom, kippers, along with other preserved smoked or salted fish such as the bloater and buckling, were also once commonly enjoyed as a high tea or supper treat, most popularly with inland and urban working-class populations before World War II.

Terminology

The word is thought to derive from the Old English cypera, or copper, based on the colour of the fish. [2] The word has various possible parallels, such as Icelandic kippa which means "to pull, snatch" and the Germanic word kippen which means "to tilt, to incline". Similarly, the Middle English kipe denotes a basket used to catch fish. Another theory traces the word kipper to the kip, or small beak, that male salmon develop during the breeding season.

As a verb, kippering ("to kipper") means to preserve by rubbing with salt or other spices before drying in the open air or in smoke. Originally applied to the preservation of surplus fish (particularly those known as "kips," harvested during spawning runs), kippering has come to mean the preservation of any fish, poultry, beef or other meat in like manner. The process is usually enhanced by cleaning, filleting, butterflying or slicing the food to expose maximum surface area to the drying and preservative agents.

Kippers, bloaters, and bucklings

All three are types of smoked herring. Kippers are split, gutted and then cold-smoked; bloaters are cold-smoked whole; bucklings are hot-smoked whole.

Origin

The fish processing factory in the village of Seahouses, Northumberland, is one of the places where the practice of kippering herrings is said to have originated Kipperfactoryseahouses.jpg
The fish processing factory in the village of Seahouses, Northumberland, is one of the places where the practice of kippering herrings is said to have originated

Although the exact origin of the kipper is unknown, this process of slitting, gutting, and smoke-curing fish is well documented. [note 1] According to Mark Kurlansky, "Smoked foods almost always carry with them legends about their having been created by accident—usually the peasant hung the food too close to the fire, and then, imagine his surprise the next morning when …". [3] For instance Thomas Nashe wrote in 1599 about a fisherman from Lothingland in the Great Yarmouth area who discovered smoking herring by accident. [4] Another story of the accidental invention of kipper is set in 1843, with John Woodger of Seahouses in Northumberland, when fish for processing was left overnight in a room with a smoking stove. [5] [6] These stories and others are known to be untrue because the word "kipper" long predates this. Smoking and salting of fish—in particular of spawning salmon and herring—which are caught in large numbers in a short time and can be made suitable for edible storage by this practice predates 19th-century Britain and indeed written history, probably going back as long as humans have been using salt to preserve food.[ citation needed ]

Colouring

"Red herring": Cold-smoked herring (Scottish kippers), brined and dyed so that their flesh achieves a reddish colour Red herring.jpg
"Red herring": Cold-smoked herring (Scottish kippers), brined and dyed so that their flesh achieves a reddish colour

A kipper is also sometimes referred to as a red herring, although particularly strong curing is required to produce a truly red kipper. [7] The term appears in a mid-13th century poem by the Anglo-Norman poet Walter of Bibbesworth, "He eteþ no ffyssh But heryng red." [8] Samuel Pepys used it in his diary entry of 28 February 1660: "Up in the morning, and had some red herrings to our breakfast, while my boot-heel was a-mending, by the same token the boy left the hole as big as it was before." [9]

The dyeing of kippers was introduced as an economy measure in the First World War by avoiding the need for the long smoking processes. This allowed the kippers to be sold quickly, easily and for a substantially greater profit. Kippers were originally dyed using a coal tar dye called brown FK (the FK is an abbreviation of "for kippers"), kipper brown or kipper dye. Today, kippers are usually brine-dyed using a natural annatto dye, giving the fish a deeper orange/yellow colour. European Community legislation limits the acceptable daily intake (ADI) of Brown FK to 0.15 mg/kg. Not all fish caught are suitable for the dyeing process, with mature fish more readily sought, because the density of their flesh improves the absorption of the dye. An orange kipper is a kipper that has been dyed orange.

Kippers from the Isle of Man and some Scottish producers are not dyed; instead, the smoking time is extended in the traditional manner. [10]

Preparation

Kippers for breakfast in England Kippers at Burton Bradstock.jpg
Kippers for breakfast in England

"Cold-smoked" fish that have not been salted for preservation must be cooked before being eaten safely (they can be boiled, fried, grilled, jugged or roasted, for instance). In general, oily fish are preferred for smoking as the heat is evenly dispersed by the oil, and the flesh resists flaking apart like drier species.

In the UK, kippers are usually served at breakfast, although their popularity has declined since the Victorian and Edwardian eras. [11] [12] [13] [14]

In the United States, where kippers are much less commonly eaten than in the UK, they are almost always sold as either canned "kipper snacks" or in jars found in the refrigerated foods section. These are precooked and may be eaten without further preparation. [15]

Industry

Kippers produced in the Isle of Man are exported around the world. [16] Thousands are produced annually in the town of Peel, where two kipper houses, Moore's Kipper Yard (founded 1882) [16] and Devereau and Son (founded 1884), [16] smoke and export herring.

Mallaig, once the busiest herring port in Europe, [17] is famous for its traditionally smoked kippers, as are Stornoway kippers and Loch Fyne kippers. The harbour village of Craster in Northumberland is famed for Craster kippers, which are prepared in a local smokehouse, sold in the village shop and exported around the world.

The Manx word for kipper is skeddan jiarg, literally red herring; the Irish term is scadán dearg with the same meaning.

Kipper time is the season in which fishing for salmon in the River Thames in the United Kingdom is forbidden by an Act of Parliament; this period was originally the period 3 May to 6 January but has changed since.[ citation needed ]Kipper season refers (particularly among fairground workers, market workers, taxi drivers and the like) to any lean period in trade, particularly the first three or four months of the year.

Members of the Canadian military referred to English people as kippers because they were believed to frequently eat kippers for breakfast. [18]

The term kippering is used in slang to mean being immersed in a room filled with cigarette or other tobacco smoke. [ citation needed ]

The English (UK) idiom [to be] "stitched (or "done") up like a kipper" is commonly used to describe a situation where a person has (depending on context) been "fitted up" or "framed"; "used", unfairly treated or betrayed; or cheated out of something, with no possibility of correcting the "wrong" done.

In the children's books The Railway Series , and in the television show Thomas the Tank Engine and Friends , The Flying Kipper is a nickname for a fast fish train usually pulled by Henry the Green Engine.

The United States Department of Agriculture defines "Kippered Beef" as a cured dry product similar to beef jerky but not as dry. [19]

See also

Notes

  1. The practice of smoking salmon for preservation was seen by Lewis and Clark among American Indians of the Columbia River region.

Related Research Articles

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoking (cooking)</span> Exposing food to smoke to flavor or preserve it

Smoking is the process of flavoring, browning, cooking, or preserving food by exposing it to smoke from burning or smoldering material, most often wood. Meat, fish, and lapsang souchong tea are often smoked.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoked salmon</span> Preparation of salmon

Smoked salmon is a preparation of salmon, typically a fillet that has been cured and hot or cold smoked.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Roe</span> Egg masses of fish and seafood

Roe, or hard roe, is the fully ripe internal egg masses in the ovaries, or the released external egg masses, of fish and certain marine animals such as shrimp, scallop, sea urchins and squid. As a seafood, roe is used both as a cooked ingredient in many dishes, and as a raw ingredient for delicacies such as caviar.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Lox</span> Brined salmon

Lox is a fillet of brined salmon, which may be smoked. Lox is frequently served on a bagel with cream cheese, and often garnished with tomato, onion, cucumber, and capers.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Pickled herring</span> Traditional way of preserving herring

Pickled herring is a traditional way of preserving herring as food by pickling or curing.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Stockfish</span> Air-dried unsalted preserved fish

Stockfish is unsalted fish, especially cod, dried by cold air and wind on wooden racks on the foreshore. The drying of food is the world's oldest known preservation method, and dried fish has a storage life of several years. The method is cheap and effective in suitable climates; the work can be done by the fisherman and family, and the resulting product is easily transported to market.

Norwegian cuisine in its traditional form is based largely on the raw materials readily available in Norway and its mountains, wilderness, and coast. It differs in many respects from continental cuisine through the stronger focus on game and fish. Many of the traditional dishes are the result of using conserved materials, necessary because of the long winters.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Smoked fish</span> Fish that has been cured by smoking

Smoked fish is fish that has been cured by smoking. Foods have been smoked by humans throughout history. Originally this was done as a preservative. In more recent times fish is readily preserved by refrigeration and freezing and the smoking of fish is generally done for the unique taste and flavour imparted by the smoking process.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Dried fish</span> Fish preserved by drying

Fresh fish rapidly deteriorates unless some way can be found to preserve it. Drying is a method of food preservation that works by removing water from the food, which inhibits the growth of microorganisms. Open air drying using sun and wind has been practiced since ancient times to preserve food. Water is usually removed by evaporation but, in the case of freeze-drying, food is first frozen and then the water is removed by sublimation. Bacteria, yeasts and molds need the water in the food to grow, and drying effectively prevents them from surviving in the food.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Buckling (fish)</span>

A buckling is a form of hot-smoked herring similar to the kipper and the bloater. The head and guts are removed but the roe or milt remain. They may be eaten hot or cold.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cured fish</span> Fish subjected to fermentation, pickling or smoking

Cured fish is fish which has been cured by subjecting it to fermentation, pickling, smoking, or some combination of these before it is eaten. These food preservation processes can include adding salt, nitrates, nitrite or sugar, can involve smoking and flavoring the fish, and may include cooking it. The earliest form of curing fish was dehydration. Other methods, such as smoking fish or salt-curing also go back for thousands of years. The term "cure" is derived from the Latin curare, meaning to take care of. It was first recorded in reference to fish in 1743.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bokkoms</span> Whole, salted and dried mullet

Bokkoms is whole, salted and dried mullet, and is a well-known delicacy from the West Coast region of South Africa. This salted fish is dried in the sun and wind and is eaten after peeling off the skin. In some cases it is also smoked. It is sometimes referred to as "fish biltong".

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Fish preservation</span>

Fish preservation is the method of increasing the shelf life of fish and other fish products by applying the principles of different branches of science in order to keep the fish, after it has landed, in a condition wholesome and fit for human consumption. Ancient methods of preserving fish included drying, salting, pickling and smoking. All of these techniques are still used today but the more modern techniques of freezing and canning have taken on a large importance.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Bloater (herring)</span> Term for herring that is smoked whole

Bloaters are a type of whole cold-smoked herring. Bloaters are "salted and lightly smoked without gutting, giving a characteristic slightly gamey flavour" and are particularly associated with Great Yarmouth, England. Popular in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the food is now described as rare. Bloaters are sometimes called a Yarmouth bloater, although production of the product in Yarmouth appears to have now ceased in the town with the closure of its smoked fish factory in 2018. The bloater is also sometimes jokingly referred to as a Yarmouth capon, two-eyed steak, or Billingsgate pheasant.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Herring as food</span> Type of fish used as food for humans

Herring are forage fish in the wild, mostly belonging to the family Clupeidae. They are an important food for humans. Herring often move in large schools around fishing banks and near the coast. The most abundant and commercially important species belong to the genus Clupea, found particularly in shallow, temperate waters of the North Pacific and North Atlantic Oceans, including the Baltic Sea, as well as off the west coast of South America. Three species of Clupea are recognized; the main taxon, the Atlantic herring, accounts for over half the world's commercial capture of herrings.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Cod as food</span> Gadidae fishes in human nutrition and cooking

Cod and other cod-like fish have been widely used as food through history. Other cod-like fish come from the same family (Gadidae) that cod belong to, such as haddock, pollock, and whiting.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Craster kipper</span> Smoked herring from Northumberland, England

Craster kippers are kippers from the Northumberland fishing village of Craster. They have been acclaimed as the best British kipper.

<span class="mw-page-title-main">Yupʼik cuisine</span> Culinary traditions of Yupik people

Yup'ik cuisine refers to the Eskimo style traditional subsistence food and cuisine of the Yup'ik people from the western and southwestern Alaska. Also known as Cup'ik cuisine for the Chevak Cup'ik dialect speaking Eskimos of Chevak and Cup'ig cuisine for the Nunivak Cup'ig dialect speaking Eskimos of Nunivak Island. This cuisine is traditionally based on meat from fish, birds, sea and land mammals, and normally contains high levels of protein. Subsistence foods are generally considered by many to be nutritionally superior superfoods. Yup’ik diet is different from Alaskan Inupiat, Canadian Inuit, and Greenlandic diets. Fish as food are primary food for Yup'ik Eskimos. Both food and fish called neqa in Yup'ik. Food preparation techniques are fermentation and cooking, also uncooked raw. Cooking methods are baking, roasting, barbecuing, frying, smoking, boiling, and steaming. Food preservation methods are mostly drying and less often frozen. Dried fish is usually eaten with seal oil. The ulu or fan-shaped knife is used for cutting up fish, meat, food, and such.

References

  1. "What's an oily fish?". Food Standards Agency. 24 June 2004. Archived from the original on 10 December 2010. Retrieved 29 May 2009.
  2. "kipper | Etymology, origin and meaning of kipper by etymonline". www.etymonline.com. Retrieved 6 August 2023.
  3. Mark Kurlansky, 2002. Salt: A World History, ISBN   978-0-8027-1373-5.
  4. Hone, William (1838). The Every-day Book and Table Book. Vol. III. Glasgow: R. Griffin and Company. pp. 569–570.
  5. Trewin, Carol (2005). Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. p. 51. ISBN   978-0-906720-39-4.
  6. Davidson, Alan (2006). Alan Davidson; Tom Jaine (eds.). The Oxford Companion to Food. Oxford: Oxford University Press. p. 728. ISBN   978-0-19-280681-9.
  7. Quinion, Michael (2002). "The Lure of the Red Herring". WorldWideWords. Retrieved 21 April 2007.
  8. Bibbesworth, Walter de (2005) [c. 1250]. Rothwell, William (ed.). Femina: (Trinity College, Cambridge MS B.14.40). Anglo-Norman On-Line Hub. p. 27. ISBN   978-0-9552124-0-6.
  9. Pepys Samuel (1893). "The Diary of Samuel Pepys M.A. F.R.S." Samuel Pepys' Diary. Retrieved 21 February 2006.
  10. "Kippers" . Retrieved 2 March 2016.
  11. Fearnley-Whittingstall, Hugh (23 January 2010). "Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's herring recipes". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 June 2023. When cooking a special breakfast, we often have kippers
  12. Smithers, Rebecca (6 April 2012). "Kippers, the breakfast dish that fell out of favour, are back on British menus". The Guardian. Retrieved 6 June 2023. Kippers were the quintessential British breakfast food [...] of the Victorian and Edwardian eras.
  13. "kippers". britannica.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023. an iconic British breakfast dish
  14. "Kippers". eatyourworld.com. Retrieved 6 June 2023.
  15. "Kipper Snacks". kingoscar.com. Retrieved 14 October 2023.
  16. 1 2 3 "Isle of Man". BBC . Retrieved 9 May 2012.
  17. "Mallaig and its story". Mallaig Heritage Centre. Archived from the original on 4 July 2008. Retrieved 9 January 2010.
  18. Langeste, Tom (1995). Words on the wing: slang, aphorisms, catchphrases and jargon of Canadian military aviation since 1914. Canadian Institute of Strategic Studies. p. 161. ISBN   0919769535.
  19. "Food Standards and Labeling Policy Book, Aug 2005" (PDF). USDA. Retrieved 25 July 2021.

Further reading