 | |
| Place of origin | England |
|---|---|
| Serving temperature | cold |
| Main ingredients | pickled vegetables and spices |
Piccalilli is an English adaptation of Indian pickles, [1] a relish [2] [3] made from chopped and pickled vegetables and spices. [4] Early versions were published by Hannah Glasse in 1758 and by Elizabeth Raffald in 1769. Regional recipes vary considerably.
The earliest recipes for piccalilli are British. [5] The Oxford English Dictionary traces the word to 1758, when Hannah Glasse described how "to make Paco-Lilla, or India Pickle" in her book The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy . [6] An apparently earlier reference is in Anne Blencowe's Receipt Book, handwritten c. 1694, which has "To Pickle Lila, an Indian Pickle" credited to Lord Kilmory. [7] [8]
The more familiar form of the word appears in 1769, in Elizabeth Raffald's The Experienced English Housekeeper , as "To make Indian pickle, or Piccalillo". [9] Richard Briggs, in his 1788 The English Art of Cookery , similarly calls it "Picca Lillo". [10] The spelling "piccalilli" can be seen in an advertisement in a 1799 edition of The Times . [11]
Piccallilli was created in England in the colonial era as an adaptation of Indian pickles. [1] The style was intentionally exotic but adapted to English taste; as such, the scholar of culture Anil Paralkar describes it as an appropriation. [12]
Hannah Glasse's recipe calls for "race-ginger" and long pepper to be soaked separately in water overnight, then sliced, salted and left to dry in the sun. The same quantity of garlic is to be sliced, and then repeatedly salted, left to stand, and washed, before being left to dry. These are then added, with mustard seed and turmeric, to a large quantity of white wine vinegar. Vegetables and fruits such as white cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, melon, apple, French beans, or plums, salted and dried, are then added. She suggests adding more vegetables and fruits "as the things come in season", also adding more vinegar when needed. [6]
Elizabeth Raffald's recipe calls for white cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, radish pods, kidney beans, and beetroot "or any other thing you commonly pickle". [13] These are to be pickled with salt and left in sunshine or "before the fire for three days to dry". [13] She then adds mustard seed, turmeric, and ale vinegar, boils it, and leaves it to stand for 12 days. She then boils more vinegar with spices, and adds that and some garlic to the pickled vegetables. [13]
Piccalilli was sold commercially by Crosse & Blackwell from the 19th century onwards. [14]
Modern British recipes for piccalilli contain vegetables such as cauliflower, onion, runner bean, carrot, and courgette. They are seasoned with spices such as ginger, garlic, coriander, mustard and turmeric, and pickled in vinegar, salt, and sugar. [15] Some use shallots in place of onions, and add some chili pepper. [16] [17]
The English celebrity chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall proposes using the vegetables cauliflower, cucumber, onion, and carrot, spiced with mustard, turmeric, ginger, cumin, nutmeg, chili, cayenne, and black pepper, and pickled in salt, sugar, and cider vinegar. He uses cornflower to thicken the mixture. [18]
In the Northeastern United States, commercial piccalillis are made with a base of sweet peppers or green tomatoes. This style is somewhat similar to sweet pepper relish, the piccalilli being distinguished by being a darker red or green and, like British piccalilli, having larger chunks and being slightly sweeter. [19] [20]
In the Midwestern United States, commercial piccalillis are based on finely chopped gherkins. Bright green and on the sweet side, they are often used as a condiment for Chicago-style hot dogs. This style is sometimes called "neon relish". [21]
In the Southern United States, chow-chow, a relish with a base of chopped green (unripe) tomatoes, is offered. This relish may include onions, bell peppers, cabbage, green beans, and other vegetables. While not similar to other piccalillis, chow-chow is often called as such and the terms may be used interchangeably. [22] [23]
A recipe of 1694 states: 'To pickle lila, an Indian Pickle' describes a vinegar and brine sauce which was flavoured with ginger, garlic, pepper, turmeric and mustard seeds. In the sauce was cabbage, cauliflower and other vegetables.
